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Entries By jake beren

Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Carry to 14,000’

June 4, 2017

Anticipating a long hard day we woke the team and fired stoves at 5AM. After a hearty breakfast of toasted bagels, cream cheese, smoked salmon and capers the team quickly assembled for the climb. Skies were clear when we left camp and the temps quite cool, great for climbing! The plan for the day was to carry a cache of gear to 14k Camp to both lessen the burden of weight when we eventually move and to acclimate to a new altitude. We climb through several iconic features on the way including Motorcycle Hill, Squirrel Hill, The Polo Fields and finally Windy Corner. The team did great and were psyched to leave the sleds and snowshoes behind for crampons and an ice axe! Clouds started billowing in just as we reached 14k camp so we dug our cache spent a few moments to refuel, re-hydrate and breathe the new air at 14,000’.

The team is all now back at camp and doing great. Tomorrows agenda is unknown, a lot depends on the weather forecast. We may take a rest day or we may move camp up to 14k. You’ll just have to tune in tomorrow to find out!

Thanks for following along everybody.

RMI Guide Steve Gately & Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Excellent progress Lindsay!  Rooting for you. Go, go, go!!!

Posted by: Patty on 6/5/2017 at 10:49 pm

Che-che!  Have the best time, everything will be waiting for you when you get back. Only better.  :)


Posted by: e on 6/5/2017 at 12:46 pm

Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Retrieve Gear and Return to 11,000’ Camp

June 3, 2017
Waking early yet again, our team of intrepid mountaineers had a quick breakfast and fired downhill to our cache at 10,000 ft. Once packs and sleds were sufficiently filled we returned back to camp as the rest of the 11,000’ Camp inhabitants were poking their heads out of tents. After a big lunch of rosti and stories, the team reviewed some climbing techniques and packed up for our next carry towards 14,000’ Camp. If the weather cooperates we will bump supplies uphill tomorrow to set ourselves up to move locations. We have heard that 14,200 feet above the sea is a nice neighborhood and we aim to get in while prices are still reasonable. Location, location, location as they say.
The team is still doing great and we are ready for the next step.

RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Got your satellite text. Glad to hear you are doing well. Thinking of you and your team a lot. Good luck.

Posted by: Jo on 6/6/2017 at 8:57 am

Burt’s Bees beard looking good Big Stephen! Good luck- hope they have some juicy chicken to keep your energy up.

Posted by: Jake on 6/5/2017 at 1:55 pm

Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Move to 11,000’ Camp

June 2, 2017
Our team sends their greetings from 11 Camp!  Everyone did quite well on the move here and we enjoyed another perfect weather day on our way up. We left early to beat the heat and it paid off. Once at camp we enjoyed some mellow camp construction and rest whilst our comrades made their way down from 17 Camp. It was great to see some triumphant souls and friendly (if scraggly) faces. Tomorrow we hope to back carry and claim our checked baggage and spend the rest of the day training and resting before working our way any higher. All subject to our beloved Mom Nature of course.

RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Good luck to the team.  Hoping for the magic 50th for one of your team.  Cheering you on.

Posted by: Salomeja on 6/5/2017 at 1:57 pm

Adam glad Mother Nature has been kind to you and your team. Wishing you well ❤️

Posted by: Dacia on 6/3/2017 at 10:13 pm

Denali Expediton: Beren & Team Make Carry to 10,000’

June 1, 2017
Greetings from our second night at the base of Ski Hill/Camp 1
Today we set off early and enjoyed perfect walking temps as we carried our checked baggage to 10,000 feet and cached a sizable load to make tomorrow’s move more civilized. If the forecast verifies, we will try to move uphill in the early morning and make our way to 11 Camp.
The team is doing great and perfect weather has welcomed us into the Alaska Range. Big Ups to the first two RMI teams as they get rewarded for their patience and perseverance- Bravo! 
We hope to check in from 11,200 feet above the sea tomorrow night!

RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Your text just make our day
Stay safe and warm if possible
Prayers to all the team

Posted by: Mom and Dad Zabinski on 6/3/2017 at 6:21 pm


Posted by: Jerome on 6/3/2017 at 6:06 pm

Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Fly to the Kahiltna Glacier

May 31, 2017
The team woke up this morning, ate one last home cooked breakfast and gathered at the hanger where our gear was waiting at K2 Aviation. The bad weather of the last few days cleared up over night and we anticipated being able to fly into the range early this morning. We all spent a few moments finalizing our backpacks and duffels when K2 gave us the thumbs up. We quickly loaded up two aircraft with everything we’ll need for the next three weeks and before we knew it we were in world of flowing ice, snow and rock.

A 45 minute plane ride takes you from the comforts of town and puts you rather abruptly in a harsh environment and every year I’m always amazed at how I never quite get used to how quickly life changes in Talkeetna. For many decades starting in the early 1900’s expeditions would start there journey with a week or more of toiling through the Alaskan bush just to reach where we have flown in under an hour. I’ll take the plane please!

An hour spent repacking and gearing up had us walking down the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier by noon. The skies were blue, the temps pleasant and the views massive. Only once in the last 4 years have I had the pleasure of walking up the Kahiltna Glacier with a view and the team did great readjusting to life in the range. Five hours of hard work brought us to our first camp at the base of Ski Hill at 7,800ft. We spent the afternoon setting up our camp. The team is now tucked in for the night getting some well earned rest. Tomorrow we will cache some gear at 10,000ft then return back to 7,800 to sleep. Forecast is calling for more good weather tomorrow and the team is excited to explore new terrain!

Thanks for following along everyone.

RMI Guide Steve Gately

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hi!!! Thinking about you tons! Hope u r enjoying every minute! Can’t wait to hear all about it in person! Love Us

Posted by: Cosco Clan on 6/2/2017 at 2:51 pm

Good morning to all
Wish I could make you all my famous meatballs and homemade pasta
Be safe
You have hundreds of people sending you all good wishes and prayers
Love you Stephen
mom/dad - aka Tina and John

Posted by: Tina Zabinski on 6/2/2017 at 6:11 am

Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Packed and Ready in Talkeetna

May 30, 2017
After a full day packing up, weighing our gear and some serious duffel shuffling we are all set to jet into the Alaska Range tomorrow!  Weather permitting we should head in mid morning and take stock of a most beautiful set of mountains. Our fingers are crossed for a grand adventure and we will keep you all posted on our journey. Take care everyone!

RMI Guide Jake Beren

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

steve i’m almost jealous!  hang tough and godspeed. stay warm!!

Posted by: keith h on 6/2/2017 at 7:51 pm

We love you and wish you and your awonderful safe climb
All the guardian angels are watching over you

Posted by: Mom and Dad zabinski on 6/1/2017 at 11:01 am

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Teams Top Out!

The Four Day Summit Climb August 28 - 31, 2016 teams led by RMI Guides Jake Beren and Christina Dale were approaching the crater rim at 7:15 am.  Jake reported moderate winds and cold temperatures but overall a very nice day for climbing. We look forward to seeing the groups at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon.

Congratulations to today’s climbers!

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Congratulations. Love you all!!

Posted by: Suzi merz on 8/31/2016 at 8:31 am

Mt. Rainier: Summit Climb Teams Climb Under Full Moon

The Four Day Summit Climb August 15 - 18, 2016 enjoyed an alpine start from Camp Muir under a beautiful full moon.  RMI Guides Jake Beren and Ben Liken reported great climbing with warm temperatures and calm winds. After spending time on the summit both teams left the crater rim on their descent just before 7:30 am PT.  We look forward to meeting the groups back at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon.

Congratulations to today’s Summit Climb teams!

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

One year from a septuagenarian and never having participated in snow activities probably is not the most propitious period to start mountaineering, especially on Mt. Rainier. It was Theodore Roosevelt, though, who said, “... Far better is it to dare mighty things, but it is worse never to have tried to succeed.”

Being in good physical conditioning and active all my life I decided to follow Teddy’s advice. I made it to Ingraham Flats and realized appropriately that my slower pace was a deterrent to team members’ having a successful climb. No regrets from me, though. I met wonderful professional guides who were patient and indulgent with me throughout the climb.

I am proud of those individuals who summited. I also take particular pride in cultivating a friendship with young 18 year old Kyle who impressed me deeply with his poise, maturity beyond his years, self-discipline, physical ability and love of his family of whom he spoke proudly. Go through life Kyle, spreading your wings and soaring as high as you dare to achieve mighty things as Teddy most assuredly would say to you.

RMI is a professionally run company. Its professional staffs are highly skilled mountaineers who place a premium on customer safety. While safety is their number one priority the professional guides establish prudent parameters for customers to maximize available opportunities to apply their skills for a truly memorable and amazing experience.

With Kindest of Regards,
Jerry W Doyle

Posted by: Jerry W Doyle on 8/20/2016 at 2:58 pm

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Teams Enjoy Beautiful Day

RMI Guides Jake Beren and Christina Dale led their teams to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning.  Both teams reported clear skies and warm temperatures with great climbing conditions.  The teams began their descent from the crater rim around 7:45 am PT.  They will return to Camp Muir and then continue down to Paradise later today.

Congratulations to today’s Summit Climbers!

Leave a Comment For the Team

Mt. Baker: Jake Beren Recaps Their Climb

With a squirrelly forecast our team of intrepid explorers launched into the mist surrounding Mt Baker just three days ago.  Hiking through the forest and meadows before stepping onto the glacier gave us a pleasant warm up for the climb to come.  Establishing camp on the Coleman Glacier just before the rain began was a welcome bonus. 
The rain persisted through the evening and we were happy to be snug in our tents. Waking up early wasn’t that encouraging and we hit the snooze button for a few hours, waiting for the weather deities to smile upon us.  Smile they did at a perfectly reasonable 7:30 am.  Off we went to improving skies and an excellent route. 
We found excellent conditions and a perfect day in the mountains.  As far as climbing Mt. Baker that day, we felt most lucky indeed.  Good job team!

RMI Guide Jake Beren

Leave a Comment For the Team
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