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Entries By james bealer


Denali Expedition: Frank &  Team Enjoy Rest Day at 11,000 Camp, Ready to Move Up

Wednesday, May 26, 2021 - 10:05 pm PT

Today we mastered the classic mountaineering skills of reading, napping and making breakfast last three hours. All part of a well rounded rest day.

It was sunny, but windy for most of the day so we spent our day hanging out in the tents and letting our bodies recover from the toil of the last few days.

Tomorrow we plan to move up to 14,000' Camp and get in position for the upper mountain.

RMI Guide Eric Frank

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

We are watching updates Heidi tracking your progress one day at a time! Stay safe and sending love way up to your altitude!

Posted by: Maxine Kay on 5/27/2021 at 7:52 am


Denali Expedition: Frank & Team Climb to 13,400ft, Return to 11,000ft Camp

Wednesday, May 26, 2021 - 12:01 am PT

What do motorcycles and squirrels have in common? They’re both steep hills we climbed on our way to cache our gear at 13,420 feet! From our cache we gained our first views of the fixed lines up to 17,000' Camp and the Messner Coulior. We descended with light packs enjoying the sunshine with beautiful views of the lower Kahiltna flowing south and green tundra stretching as far west into the distance as the eye can see.

RMI Guide Eric Frank

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

E-L-L-I-O-T

DAMN, hope your were able to fit your snowboard in your pack; STUNNER!

Definitely rarified air.

Let the journey be the focus.

Belgian Ales @ Hopleaf await.

I just can’t grasp why you haven’t been texting me lots of pictures - ha!

Love ya, my Brother

ET

Posted by: Shawn Dalgleish on 5/26/2021 at 5:05 pm

WOW Heidi!  We think we spotted you in this most recent photo!  I shared your whole expedition thus far during homeroom with the third grade.  They loved it. 
I hope you packed enough chapstick.  That wind looks fierce.  Keep on doing awesome!  Kirby says you are a BEAST!

Posted by: Allison santana on 5/26/2021 at 10:41 am


Denali Expedition: Frank & Team Grab Cache, Fully Move in to 11,000’

Monday, May 24, 2021 - 10:24 pm PT

We're finally fully moved into 11,000' Camp. After a four hour lap to pick up our cache at 9,400 we have all our food and fuel with us. To celebrate to had pudding for dessert after a tasty meal of rice and curry. The weather looks good for tomorrow and we are hoping to carry some gear up to Windy Corner.

RMI Guide Eric Frank

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Please tell Norm that everything is ok at home and I am well. Thanks! Valerie

Posted by: Valerie Cognetto on 5/31/2021 at 11:14 am

We kidnapped your wife for the weekend, it will cost you a weekend of camping out at a country music festival, lol.  Seriously- we are so very proud and astounded by your accomplishment. Norm- you are amazing and we wish you a safe return home to all who love you. xo

Posted by: Allison and Jimmy on 5/30/2021 at 7:06 am


Denali Expedition: Frank & Team Move to 11,000ft Camp

Sunday, May 23, 2021 - 11:31 pm PT

Cold temps and wind greeted us as we began our move to 11,000' Camp, our Camp 2 this morning.  The climb warmed up as the sun hit us and we enjoyed stellar views. The day remained windy with blowing snow but our team powered through it.  Arriving at 11,000' Camp, we settled in and built our camp in fine alpine style.  We were pleasantly surprised to run into the rest of our RMI teams here at 11,200'. Hopefully the reunion will be short as those teams progress up the mountain while good weather remains over the range.

RMI Guide Eric Frank

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Someone said there is no WiFi in the mountains, but you will make your own connections! Enjoy it all!

Posted by: Maxine Kay on 5/24/2021 at 7:09 pm


Denali Expedition: Frank & Team Take a Rest Day at 7,800’

Fresh snow and deep drifts greeted us this morning as we lay in the tent listening to the wind blow.  Without being able to differentiate up from down, we decided to take a rest day and stay in camp.  Our job became rest and recovery, which our team much appreciated.  We are hoping for better weather and a move to Camp 2 tomorrow. 

RMI Guide Eric Frank & Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

May the wind be at your back for tomorrow!

Posted by: Maxine Kay on 5/23/2021 at 2:42 pm


Denali Expedition: Frank and Team Cache Gear at 9,800’

Friday, May 21, 2021 - 11:28 pm PT

This morning we woke up to fresh snow as we began preparations for our carry to the 9800 cache. Our duffels and backpacks were able to easily swallow our gear as we only had to carry a load of about 50% of the weight from the previous day. The team ascended, cached everything and then descended in stellar form, ate a nourishing meal and went to bed with full stomachs and tired legs.

RMI Guide Eric Frank & Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Just found your trip and will be following!  I climbed this route in 1996 with RMI / Robert Link and you are brining back some powerful memories.  One day, one camp, one step, one cut block at a time.  You’ll get there!

Posted by: Keith on 5/23/2021 at 8:50 pm

Looks great! Keep it up!

Posted by: Thomas Brown on 5/22/2021 at 6:52 pm


Denali Expedition: Frank & Team Ascend to Camp 1 at 7,800ft

Thursday, May 20, 2021 - 10:36 pm PT

Sometimes it’s not so fun to be right.  Turns out we were right about the incoming snow storm.   We moved to Camp 1 at 7,800' today through continuous snowy weather.   The guide team safely navigated us across the Kahiltna, while Eric proved he was a talented linguist by regaling us with stories during our breaks. Tomorrow we hope to cache food and extra equipment above Ski Hill and then return to our camp. 

RMI Guides Eric Frank, James Bealer, Jack Delaney and team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Go Heidi!!! We are following along as well! :)

Carol & Huay

Posted by: Huay on 5/22/2021 at 6:00 pm

Elliot
Loving the updates. Stay strong and tap into your tenacious spirit. Our best to you and your fellow travelers.
Love
Mom and Daf

Posted by: Susan and Bert Campos on 5/22/2021 at 9:57 am


Denali Expedition: Frank & Team Ready in Talkeetna, Fly to Kahiltna Base Camp

Wednesday, May 19, 2021 - 11:20 pm PT

Blue skies greeted us this morning in Talkeetna.  With potentially stormy weather approaching, we decided to make an expeditious attempt to fly onto the glacier this evening.  We lucked out and got a flight and landed at Base Camp. Now the adventure begins!  Tomorrow we plan to move to Camp 1 at 7,800 feet

RMI Guide Eric Frank

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Elliot
Loving the updates, thinking good thoughts for you and the rest of your team. Enjoy the adventure, stay strong and tap into your tenacious spirit to keep moving.
Cheers and Love
Mom and Dad

Posted by: Susan Campos on 5/21/2021 at 7:09 pm

Go Auntie Heidi!!!
From Wilson

We hope you make it safely, watch out for spider badgers!!! (8-legged badger)  ((Breckin made it up and tries to convince people it’s a real thing))
From Breckin

Posted by: Jason Kay on 5/21/2021 at 4:55 pm


Mt. Rainier: Four Day Climb Turns Due to Conditions

RMI Guides Mike King and Alan Davis led their Four Day Climb teams to 11,600' today before being turned back by new snow and poor conditions.  RMI Guide Alan Davis reported drifting snow up to 2 feet in places.  The teams departed from Camp Muir around 8 am and will conclude their program at Rainier BaseCamp today.

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Remember the great Ed Viesters

‘Getting up is optional…..getting down is MANDATORY’

Peace and mahalo

@tgsaet

Posted by: Scottie on 5/25/2021 at 12:11 am


North Cascades: Expedition Skills Seminar - Shuksan

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Shuksan Team has spent the last week in the North Cascades with one day spent on Mt. Erie learning basic rock climbing. And the remainder of the week on Mt. Shuksan to complete alpine mountaineering skills training. These techniques include anchor placements, various self and team crevasse rescue techniques, steep technical ice climbing, belays, rappelling, knots, route finding and fixed rope travel. The team then attempted the summit of Mt. Shuksan, but were forced to turn at the base of the summit pyramid due to poor rainy weather. The team is breaking camp and will be hiking to the trail head this afternoon. Congratulations to the Team on a great week of climbing!
Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Incredible experience!  We had a great team and fantastic leadership from the guides. I learned so much of the basic mountaineering skills needed for future climbs. Thank you RMI for an amazing trip!

Posted by: Beechard McConnell on 9/14/2019 at 12:01 pm

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