Entries By joe hoch
The team stood on top of Pico de Orizaba at 7:30 this morning. We had calm air and partly clear skies to begin our hike up the steep moraine trail. Once in the labyrinth the trail was covered in firm snow & ice, which was unexpected based on how dry the surrounding area was. The team was moving up the glacier around 5 am. Once on the summit the pyramid shadow cast by the rising sun greeted everyone and was a highlight of the trip. The descent is always hard on toes and knees but we got back to Piedra Grande hut and packed up for the bumpy ride down in the trucks.
We are back in Sr. Reyes’ hostel and packed for flights tomorrow afternoon. This has been a great trip with a stellar group of climbers, especially since we had summits on Ixta via a forgotten route and a classic Orizaba summit day. Thanks for following along.
RMI Guide Mike King
Photo credit: Mike Greene
New Post Alerts:
Mexico's Volcanoes January 13, 2024
Posted by: Mike King, Joe Hoch
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mexico
We had a nice relaxed day off in Puebla yesterday. The team struck out in some smaller groups to walk around Puebla. Seems like good food, drink and site seeing was had. Today we head to Tlachichuca for a quick stop at Servimont’s historic soap factory turned climbers hostel to repack for our last summit attempt, Pico de Orizaba 18,491’. The remainder of the day will be spent taking trucks up a long and windy road to the Piedra Grande hut. Once there we will go for a short hike uphill to see the rocky and circuitous trail we will begin our climb on. We’ll check in hopefully from the summit tomorrow morning with a more detailed report once back down to the hostel. Thanks for following along.
RMI Guide Mike King
New Post Alerts:
Mexico's Volcanoes January 13, 2024
We had some new information about the steep snow slope on the “knees” route upon arrival at La Joya. The slope had not got any new snow and was a firm ice sheet. Having been there last fall I decided that we should come up with a new plan to acclimate our group in preparation for Orizaba. Our local guide Alan had mentioned that climbers had been descending the Ayoloco route. For context the Ayoloco glacier was declared “dead” in 2018. Our guides had used this route to climb Ixta until 2011ish. We decided that if the Ayoloco was descendable then it must be ascendable.
We set off yesterday into a dry and tall grassland filled with large sporadic pine trees, small lizards currying underfoot at 13000’. We picked our way up a “trail” not frequently used. Our high camp was 1000’ lower than the Refugio on the “knees” route but more pristine. We had a running water source nearby which doesn’t exist higher up.
Our team wound its way across Ixta’s middle slopes at midnight with the night lights of Mexico City showing the way. After a circuitous climb of the area formally known as the Ayoloco, we were on the summit at 5 am. Taking in the dawn colors before dropping into the once bountiful Ayoloco valley the team rallied like they have all trip.
The descent to La Joya aggrieved knees and toes but there’s no motivation like a hot shower, cold drink and rest day. We are in Puebla for a rest day and will repack for our Pico de Orizaba attempt on Saturday. Thanks for following along.
RMI Guide Mike King
New Post Alerts:
Mexico's Volcanoes January 13, 2024
January 17, 2024 - 5:50 am PT
Our team reached the summit of Ixta via Ayoloco route. We are descending to high camp and will post a full update once in Puebla.
RMI Guide Mike King
New Post Alerts:
Mexico's Volcanoes January 13, 2024
We called an audible this morning after hearing updated route conditions. The last remaining snow on our summit day has not got a refresh and is firm ice. This traverse would likely shut our summit day down. Instead we decided to go attempt the old Ayoloco route since teams have been using it as a descent route. The team is doing well. We will check in hopefully from the summit tomorrow morning. Until then, rest, hydration and dinner will occupy our afternoon.
RMI Guide Mike King
New Post Alerts:
Mexico's Volcanoes January 13, 2024
Yesterday the Mexico Volcanos team left our luxury accommodation at Hotel Geneve in Zona Rosa, Mexico City and headed to Volcan La Malinche to stretch the legs and get used to higher elevations.
We made great time through pine forests and cool air from 10,000ft to roughly 13,800ft before we were turned by the Policia de Montaña. Largely to protect the many locals in jeans and street shoes, their 2pm turn around was strict and they were not impressed by our fancy technical outerwear and backpacks.
Our conciliation price was an amazing view of our next goal, 17,103’ Volcan Iztaccíhuatl (Ixta), and later a muy grande BBQ feast at our cabañas. Off to Ixta!
RMI Guide Joe Hoch
New Post Alerts:
Mexico's Volcanoes January 13, 2024
Posted by: Joe Hoch, Nicole De Petris, Jackson Breen, Charlie Harrison
Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades
Elevation: 9,700'
RMI Guide, Joe Hoch, reported the following from Mt. Baker this afternoon:
The team is back at Sandy Camp after their summit attempt. We made it up to the crater rim, at around 9,700'.
The team will enjoy their dinner at camp, a good night's rest before they pack up camp and head back to the trailhead tomorrow. Nice work team!
Congratulations to the entire team! And a special shout out to intrepid Chris Rowley!
Posted by: Regina Leeds on 9/2/2023 at 10:52 am
Posted by: Joe Hoch, Mike Bennett, Mitch Valaitis
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 11,200'
The Five Day Climb led by RMI Guide Joe Hoch spent two days on the mountain. The team climbed to Ingraham Flats where they were able to spend the day learning crevasse rescue skills. The team had a great couple of days on the upper slopes of Mt. Rainier.
Posted by: Steve Gately, Joe Hoch, Jackson Breen, Joey Manship, Raymond Holt, Ben Thorneycroft
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 11,200'
Today's RMI Four Day Climb with guides Steve Gately and Jackson Breen climbed to Ingraham Flats to enjoy the sunrise. The high heat, and current route conditions prevented the team from safely going any further onto the upper mountain. The team enjoyed the morning climb and are now descending to Paradise.
Posted by: Casey Grom, Joe Hoch, Charlie Harrison, Leif Bergstrom, Raymond Holt, Evan Redman
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 13,400'
The Four Day Climb August 6 - 9 led by RMI Guides Casey Grom and Joe Hoch were unable to reach the summit of Mt. Rainier today. The lenticular cloud over the mountain brought snow and winds and the teams reached 13,400' before deteriorating weather encouraged them to turn around. The climbers will return to Camp Muir for a quick stop before continuing to Paradise this afternoon.
You came very close! Darned bad luck with the weather. Great effort getting up there, can’t wait for the stories.
Posted by: Olga Walker on 8/9/2023 at 8:09 pm
Great effort. Much to be proud of. Managed challenges but can’t manage Mother Nature.
Be proud of yourselves.
Posted by: Margery Marshall on 8/9/2023 at 2:14 pm
Hey Mike!
That is Awesome!! Brings back Great memories!
Farmer Dave
Posted by: Dave Kestel on 1/22/2024 at 7:15 am
Our son Matt was in your group enjoyed the update and pictures. Thanks for the great job as a guide and keeping everyone safe
Posted by: Barb Coble on 1/20/2024 at 5:22 pm
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