Entries By mike bennett

Wednesday, June 11, 2025 - 9:21 pm PT

We’ve Landed

We’re officially on the glacier.

After spending, as Dom puts it, “the right amount of time in Talkeetna,” we loaded into the Dehavilland Otters this morning and flew into the heart of the Alaska Range.  Jack, our pilot, confirmed that “of all the RMI groups this year, this is the nicest day to fly.”  Jack was kind enough to take us around for a view of the climbing route.   It is difficult to describe the scenic majesty of the jagged snow-capped peaks as we circled around and made our landing approach.  We have base camp practically to ourselves, and it’s very peaceful and quiet, with a few clouds drifting in the blue sky above.  After setting up, and spending time learning how to rig the sleds, and how to pack as to not look “like traveling merchants on the Kahiltna glacier,” we settled in for a break.  

Tonight we’ll have some pizza for dinner, the last trace of civilization (apart from the 9 inReach units our group brought along. . . )

For now, the focus is rest. We’re planning to head out with our sleds sometime around 3 a.m., taking advantage of the firm snow and cool conditions for travel on the lower glacier.

Signing off from Kahiltna Base camp,

RMI Climber Nate Brunner

The June 9th Mt. McKinley Expedition has loaded up in Talkeetna in the K2 Aviation Twin Otters and is heading to Kahiltna Base Camp. Their next check in should be from the glacier.

Good luck team!

The Team is Packed and Ready for the Flight in!

Welll we did it. We packed. We’re ready….. we hope. 

Today is quite the bear of a day. What starts as a nice leisurely breakfast at the Swiss Alaska quickly turns into a packing, sorting, repacking, resorting conundrum. We have to pack for a 3 week trip with all of our food, gear, and shelters for the trip. It’s a task. BUT, we did it in style. 

The team worked through the maze of duffels, carabiners, and a million ziplocks to finally weigh in and separate our gear for the flight tomorrow. We’ll be eating up and soaking in the last bit  of creature comforts that Talkeetna has to offer. We’re excited to let the gun go off and the trip to officially start. Once we’re on the mountain, the jitters fade and the fun begins. Wish us luck and be sure to look for your climbers name at the bottom of these dispatches. We’ll pass this blog around the team so that you can hear about the journey from your loved ones. 

Be on the lookout and talk to you all following along from Kahiltna Basecamp! 

RMI Guide Dominic Cifelli 

It has been a rewarding and exhausting week and a half traveling around Ecuador and venturing into the high mountains. Yesterday, we concluded the trip with an attempt of Cotopaxi, followed by a celebration dinner in Quito. We did not summit Cotopaxi and yet, had a meaningful and memorable experience. There are some days that the mountain does not grant reasonably safe passage and that is just how it goes. Reflecting on my own experiences climbing in this country, some of the windless, sunny days where we reached big summits have begun to blend together. On the other hand, those nights with unrelenting wind, rain, snow, rime ice or lightning really stand out. Our attempt of Cotopaxi falls into that category.

As we left the hut, the feeling was that the steady 20-30mph wind would need to relent during the early morning hours as we went higher on the mountain. Adding to this, we were occassionaly spritzed by rain or very moist clouds. I know that may sound like the same thing, but there is a subtle difference. Either way, by the time we reached the glacier our clothing was thoroughly coated in rime ice and we found ourselves in even more need of improvements in the weather. We began the long, steep traverse from the entrance of the glacier to the Yanasacha Ridge and the weather never improved. At 17600' we made the decision for the team to turn around. That is a tough call to make, albeit the right one. Most people's reflection seemed to include some continued dialing of how much weather is too much weather. I often reflect using a thought process along the lines of: if I continue to the summit in these conditions 100 times, does something catastrophic occur? Of course, we can't know for sure the answer to that, but we can begin to imagine the variety of outcomes and I think we all know a 1 in 100 chance of catastrophe is not worth the reward. We can feel proud to have pushed ourselves in adverse conditions and have had a learning experience.

Today the team is parting ways. Most are headed home to family, while some are extending their vacations or climbing plans further into South America. Wherever it is, this team now carries with them some great memories and stories to be shared.

RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier & Team

Monday, January 27, 2025 - 11:43 pm PT

What a proper effort that was. Every member of our team pushed themselves today and some reached the summit of Cayambe, while others reached personal high points. Overall, the climb was a great learning experience.

It was a pretty challenging climb. We sat in the hut for most of the day yesterday because it was too rainy to go outside. Then knowing we needed to get an early start, we left the hut with wind and a light mist, wearing hard shell jackets and pants. We had to push towards the upper mountain gambling on some clearing in the weather and we got just that, SOME clearing. We faced moderate winds for most of the remainder of the climb as well as clouds that obscured visibility at times. Everyone had a thin layer of rime ice.

We're now headed to a hacienda for two nights of rest before heading off to Cotopaxi!

RMI Guide Dustin Witmier

RMI Guides Dustin Wittmier and Mike Bennett and the Ecuador Volcanoes team reached the summit of Cayambe earlier this morning. 

Way to climb!

We are settled in at the Cayambe Hut. It has been raining constantly since early this morning, so we are hunkering down until we see a weather window to review some climbing skills.

Our plan is to climb tonight, but we do need the weather to improve. Despite that, every individual's preparations have already been made and now it's just a game of wait and see. We will update you tomorrow!

RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier

Onward and upward! 

The team begins its transition into the high alpine, leaving behind the comforts of city life as they begin their first climb of Cayambe. After a casual morning enjoying the Otavalo market, the team drove to the lower Cayambe hut where they sorted gear for the climb and did final fit checks on all the technical gear. After a freshly prepared Ecuadorian dinner, the team is settling in for their last full night of sleep before moving up to the high hut to begin their climb. 

RMI Guide Mike Bennett

The Ecuador Volcanoes team continued their acclimatization journey yesterday, making an ascent of Ricco Pichincha just outside of Quito. For many of the climbers, this was a new altitude PR (15413’). Today, the team will start their drive toward Cayambe, stopping to do a moderate acclimatization hike around Laguna de Cuicocha before stopping at a hacienda for the evening. Folks are beginning to settle into the trip, getting into the flow of the expedition and enjoying the diverse culture Ecuador has to offer. Meanwhile, excitement grows as the start of the first major climb grows nearer and the team begins to feel more and more acclimatized. 

RMI Guide Mike Bennett

Well, that's a wrap on the entire trip. Our final day also coincided with a 40th birthday party, so we celebrated at La Briciola, a nice Italian restaurant in Quito. We shared laughs as people recounted funny moments from the trip and even had a couple laughs about things that felt more serious in the moment; mountaineering is fun, but can also be stressful.

This trip was a success before we even stepped foot on any of the mountains. Each member of the team prepared diligently and showed up in Ecuador ready to climb, if the mountains would allow safe passage. In the end, all three big mountains allowed such and we had the privilege of visiting three beautiful summits. Had we reached none of these summits, I would be equally proud of this team for all the mental and physical training they accomplished before arriving here. A job well done team.

RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier