Posts for Everest

Mt. Everest Expedition: Hahn & Sherpa Team Make Another Attempt to Get to Camp One

Posted by: Dave Hahn, JJ Justman | April 20, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest
Elevation: 17,575'

Another early morning, another attempt to get through the Khumbu Icefall.  Thwarted.  We were still hoping to accomplish a recon/carry and so I headed out with our Sherpa climbing team at 4:30 AM.  As we started, the Sherpa teams ahead of us formed a solid parade of headlights, snaking up through the glacier in the darkness.  We made fine progress though, easily passing our highpoint from the other day.  That last time the weather was poor, and this time it was perfect, so we could see everything we needed and wanted to see about the climbing route.  Our luck ran out near the top of the technical difficulties when we skidded to a stop at 7 AM at the tail end of a monumental traffic jam.  We spent 90 minutes inching upward, stomping our feet to stay warm (we were still in deep and cool shadows), and alternately eyeballing the ice towers hanging over our heads and the nearby site of last year’s tragic avalanche.  Finally, with perhaps a hundred Sherpas at full stop between ourselves and a fairly difficult wall climb, we determined that we’d pushed our luck far enough.  We descended, cached the load at the icefall’s midpoint and got ourselves out of the line of fire and on our way back to Basecamp.  Sherpas and climbers did eventually make camp one and even camp two on this day, but the missions took perhaps three times as long as they should have, with much of that time spent at risk… Not for us.  We reached sunny and safe Base Camp shortly after JJ Justman had departed with our team for a Pumori Camp One hike.  The route needs more work and we conveyed this idea as best we were able to the Icefall Doctors and their administrators.  In general terms, it takes a safer path than the routes of recent years, but more work needs to be done and more ladders need to be fixed in order to handle the Sherpa traffic, let alone the less skilled foreign climbers who will soon hit the climb in great numbers.

Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Sherpa teams and guide attempt to navigate through the Khumbu Icefall.  Photo: Dave Hahn Sherpa and guides going through the Khumbu Icefall.  Photo: Dave Hahn

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2

Glad you are a safety guy.  Hate to think of the frontline team in the risk zone while awaiting a traffic jam.  Be well. Sending my best. xo

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Posted by: Bonny Rogers on 4/20/2015 at 1:48 pm

Thank you for the excellent, concise update. Much appreciated. Keep beaming out your daily reports, Dave. And JJ. We’re supporting you with our thoughts, enthusiasm, and prayers here in Bali!

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Posted by: Susi Johnston on 4/20/2015 at 10:12 am


Mt. Everest: Hang Time at Base Camp

Posted by: Dave Hahn, JJ Justman | April 19, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest
Elevation: 17,575'

Finally, the storm has fled.  It was about six days of snow or the threat of snow… But the wind blew like crazy last night and our bad weather is now somebody else’s bad weather.  Bright and strong sunshine all day today… T-Shirts were just fine at midday in Everest Base Camp.  The Icefall Doctors were hard at work in the big jumble and the rest of us stayed out of their way, just as planned.  Teams could be seen clawing all over the ice towers close to camp, practicing in their own little chutes and ladders gymnasiums.  We took an afternoon cruise through the maze of ice ridges and towers in the “safe” part of the glacier and then tried to catch up on 3G connections.  Internet access has been a little squirrelly these past days what with the cloud blocking solar power and the wind wrecking reflector dishes.  Word by late afternoon was that the route is almost restored to Camp One… With some difficult trail breaking through new snow remaining to be done.  I’ll try to keep up with our Sherpa team early tomorrow with C1 as our goal (once again).  JJ Justman will take our climber gang hiking.

Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Horseshoes at RMI Everest Base Camp. Photo: JJ Justman 2015 Sherpa World Championship Horseshoes. Photo: JJ Justman

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Larry,

I’m glad you and the team can put the 15-2, 15-4, 15-6, 15-8 behind you and get on the move!

Howard

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Posted by: Howard Norman on 4/19/2015 at 11:40 am

Allez Allez Super Team !

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Posted by: Chrystel on 4/19/2015 at 10:50 am


Mt. Everest Expedition: Team is Holding at Base Camp

Posted by: Dave Hahn, JJ Justman | April 18, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest
Elevation: 17,575'

The storm may be coming to an end.  We hope.  It was still snowing yesterday, and predictions had it continuing today, but despite a great deal of cloud and moisture in the air… we’ve got sunshine on Everest Base Camp.
There is no climbing activity in the Icefall today out of respect for the Nepali men who -one year ago- lost their lives in the avalanche off Everest’s West Shoulder.  This somewhat grim anniversary has been made a little worse by our recent inability to get through the glacier.  The reasons… bad weather and shifting glacial ice, are perfectly normal in this game, but against the backdrop of last year’s season-ending tragedy, the barrier to the Western Cwm seems more formidable than ever.  Early yesterday morning I accompanied our Sherpa team into the start of the difficult sections, but we along with perhaps 70 Sherpas from other teams had to turn around when a combination of vertical ladders was discovered to have been destroyed by shifting ice.  We were back in camp before the normal wakeup and breakfast time… and it must be admitted that sitting in a chair sipping coffee beat balancing over treacherous and tedious crevasse crossings, but… as I say, it would have been a major boost to morale and to the team’s progress to have made Camp One.  That will now have to wait until the route is repaired and the storm has exited.  It will happen.  In the mean time, our team is simply in the same situation as a couple dozen others… maintain mental and physical readiness.  We did it yesterday afternoon by going on a brisk hike toward Pumori Camp One.  Today, it seemed best to give the team their freedom… some chose a hike down to the tea houses of Gorak Shep, some chose showers and good books in basecamp.  Realistically, there will be more waiting to endure.  The Icefall Doctors need to do a fair bit of work to make the route passible tomorrow and the climbing teams have decided not to crowd them in their labors.  So we’ll wait.  And we’ll be ready when our chance for climbing comes.

Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

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Pardon the typos and bad “cut and pastes”. I’m just so excited, and interested in the challenges facing Emily, and all of the climbers up there this year, and with… read more

Posted by: Susi Johnston on 4/19/2015 at 6:00 am

I’m writing to you from my home in Bali, Indonesia. Just to say three cheers for RMI, always a solid team of solid climbers. The RMI legacy of Everest pioneers… read more

Posted by: Susi Johnston on 4/19/2015 at 5:54 am


Mt. Everest: Hahn & a Sherpa Team Explore Midway Through the Icefall

Posted by: Dave Hahn, JJ Justman | April 17, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest
Elevation: 17,575'

This is Dave Hahn with the RMI Everest expedition. Sorry to leave you hanging last night. We didn’t get a dispatch out before all the power shut off and all of our forms of communication ended. It has been a stormy week here, so not quite as much solar gain as we would have hoped. Systems all through the valley are running on short time that way. Cell service, internet service, all of that was being affected by the storm. We’re doing okay here. We tried to get up the Icefall yesterday morning, the Sherpas and myself, but it was not to be. We, along with perhaps 70 other Sherpas from other teams got turned around where the route has collapsed during the storm, natural movement of the glacier. The route needed some maintenance- some ladders put back in place. So without even getting to the midpoint of the Icefall, we were turned around, brought everything back down. Hoping to go up with conditions improve. Still storming here. Still windy up high, still cloudy. We are down at Base Camp today.  I’ll try to get a real dispatch out this evening. Bye now.

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

RMI Guide Dave Hahn joins the Sherpa in some Icefall exploration. Photo: Dave Hahn A looksee at the Icefall confirms continued storm and busted ladders as they are turned around. Photo: Dave Hahn A looksee at the Icefall confirms continued storm and busted ladders as they are turned around. Photo: Dave Hahn


RMI Guide Dave Hahn calls in with an update.

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KEEP IT SAFE DAVE, KEEP IT SAFE.

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Posted by: douglas Hihn on 4/18/2015 at 3:41 am

Wishing the team clear weather and safety through the icefall.

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Posted by: Brendon on 4/17/2015 at 11:40 pm


Mt. Everest Expedition: Ground Hog Day

Posted by: Dave Hahn, JJ Justman | April 16, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest
Elevation: 17,575'

Once again, we (the Sherpa team and guides) were ready to go up through the icefall on a recon mission.  Once again we nipped it in the bud at three in the morning due to falling snow and cloaking clouds.  The clouds were still thick as clam chowder when the team assembled for breakfast.  That didn’t stop us from gearing up and going for a walk in the new snow for an hour or so along the route to just where things get steep and serious at the base of the Khumbu Icefall.  It was eerie and beautiful to have the giant towers and walls of ice drifting in and out of our view as we trudged quietly through the snow.  Out in front in the whiteout, it was nearly impossible to tell anything as to whether the next step would be up or down or sideways, but we managed to find the route by braille in any case.  The goal was to get some exercise and some more practice and -as much as anything- to occupy the mind in what could be construed as dull circumstances.  There is still a blanket of snow over everything and so hiking Pumori’s ridges (as we’ve done to reach both Pumori Camp One and Kalapathar) doesn’t seem wise, what with shallow powder over uneven rock.  We passed the afternoon playing games and monkeying around with internet/3G connectivity.
Tomorrow, for sure… up and at ‘em.

Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

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Dave - really enjoy reading your daily updates, and as always love the photos when there are some posted.  Wishing you and your team the best at the best, and… read more

Posted by: Mary on 4/17/2015 at 4:51 am

Hi Larry, JJ, Dave and Team ... We are reading your blogs everyday.  Keep your spirits up ... As we know you most certainly are!  Fred K

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Posted by: Fred Klingbeil on 4/16/2015 at 5:29 pm


Mt. Everest Expedition: Dave Hahn Checks in From Base Camp

Posted by: Dave Hahn, JJ Justman | April 15, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest
Elevation: 17,575'

Hello this is Dave Hahn with RMI’s Everest Expeditions calling in.  I promise I wrote a nice dispatch but lost connectivity before sending it to you, so we’ll have to do a voice dispatch. It’s all good here. It’s snowing lightly, it’s been snowing since about mid-day but just lightly.  We are still holding on to the hope that the Sherpas and one or two of the guides might get up in the morning for a scouting trip through the Ice Fall.  Of course that is weather dependent as always.  Today the team went over their gear, trying to streamline their systems for climbing fixed ropes. They checked out their down suits trying to get a little bit more familiar with that gear.  Our Sherpa team did the same.  Fairly quiet day, nobody else is going through the Ice Fall either a few people nibble at the base of the route today just stretching their legs and working their technique.

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

RMI Climbers testing out their down suits while at Everest Base Camp.  Photo: Dave Hahn The RMI Sherpa team in their down suits at Everest Base Camp.  Photo: Dave Hahn


RMI Guide Dave Hahn calls in from Everest Base Camp.

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Chheuring letting it flow and looking great as always! Sending good weather wishes your way. Miss you all! xo

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Posted by: Erin on 4/16/2015 at 7:04 am

  Happy Thurs from 600’ of elevation in Indiana Larry + JJ / team…Sounds like a Weather Prayer is a good idea - OK you got it :)...Waltero…Enjoying the dispatches…Say… read more

Posted by: Waltero on 4/16/2015 at 4:22 am


Mt. Everest: Hahn & Team Wait Another Day Due to Snow

Posted by: Dave Hahn, JJ Justman | April 14, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest
Elevation: 17,575'

Dave Hahn with the RMI Everest Expedition. We are without internet this evening, due to forces beyond our control. We are doing fine. It was another waiting day. There was still all of that snow on the ground from the bigger storm and the threat of more falling, but in the end we didn’t get that much more today. It was pretty cloudy. Our team went for a climb to the face of the the steep part in the icefall, so we went about an hour to an hour and a half breaking trail to the start of the technical sections in the icefall. We made a good morning of it, and taking it easy this afternoon mostly at camp as we wait and see.  Nobody wants to push up through the icefall right now with that possibility for more snow coming. We may have to do a similar program tomorrow- hiking, exercise, training, and then will hope to hit the icefall the following day. At least Sherpas and guides going up to preview it, but that that doesn’t seem worthwhile at the moment, but another day or two, we’ll see. Everybody is doing well. We’ll let you know what happens. Thanks.

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Khumbu Icefall seen with the new snow from yesterday's storm. Photo: Dave Hahn Dave Hahn leading the RMI Everest team in a training session into the lower section of the Icefall. Photo: JJ Justman Everest BC - Mark Tucker choosing to go with his air game. Photo: Dave Hahn


RMI Guide Dave Hahn checks in from Everest Base Camp.

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Patience is a virtue….

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Posted by: Ken Nelson on 4/15/2015 at 5:01 am

Nice to hear your voice live from Everest Base Camp.  Bet some of the men are going through a mini Internet withdrawal.  I won’t mention any names….haha.  Glad you are… read more

Posted by: Bonny Rogers on 4/14/2015 at 2:00 pm


Mt. Everest: Hahn & Team Have a Snow Day

Posted by: Dave Hahn, JJ Justman | April 13, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest
Elevation: 17,575'

The snow began falling about the time we got into our sleeping bags last night.  It didn’t quit.  When we poked heads out for a look-see around 3:30 AM, it was still piling up pretty good, and so there wasn’t any consideration given for going ahead with the icefall plan for the day.  Back to bed and wait and see, was the plan.  It had snowed about a foot by breakfast.  The gang assembled and we spent the day biding our time.  We didn’t have great conditions for walking with powder snow over uneven rock and ice.  The clouds and flurries hung in all day.  We could hear and occasionally see puja ceremonies going on at the camps around us.  All-in-all it was a quiet day of waiting.  We’ll see what tomorrow brings. 

Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Overnight snow covers Everest Base Camp. Photo: JJ Justman Hanging out in the EBC cook tent on a snowy day. Photo: JJ Justman The RMI Everest team gather for a meal in the cook tent. Photo: JJ Justman

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PMR,  like the beard, true mountain man look!! 

Ken

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Posted by: Ken Nelson on 4/13/2015 at 9:30 pm

Larry,
An oven, was that really an oven in JJ’s picture? Amazing…
Glad your getting some good food and company up there. Love you!

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Posted by: Debbie Worden on 4/13/2015 at 7:58 pm


Mt. Everest: Team Takes a Day Off

Posted by: Dave Hahn, JJ Justman | April 12, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest
Elevation: 17,575'

It was shower day for the climbing team.  This was our designated “day off” so that all could get a good night’s sleep without any nervousness about what might be demanded of another training/climbing day.  It seemed to do the trick… we all showed up late for the pre-breakfast coffee and tea session.  There was a pretty good procession of old friends and fellow guides coming to say hello and exchange radio frequencies today.  Climbing teams are now pouring in, the Puja flags are going up everywhere and brightly colored tents are blossoming in every direction.

We’ll make our first push through the icefall tomorrow… Sherpas and guides, at least.  Our goal will be to check out the route and to establish Camp 1 at close to 20,000 ft.

Best Regards,

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Common Tent at Base Camp. RMI Photo Collection Fun and Games at Base Camp on a Rest Day. RMI Photo Collection

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Inspired by your courage and praying for all Sherpas and climbers - from Maryland, USA.

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Posted by: Carol Clancey on 4/18/2015 at 10:53 am

Peter we miss you and love you and hope you are doing well! I love the email updates and look forward to them!  Wishing you and the rest of the… read more

Posted by: Chelsea Hall on 4/13/2015 at 1:16 pm


Mt. Everest: Team Explores Pumori Base Camp and Kalapathar

Posted by: Dave Hahn, JJ Justman | April 11, 2015
Categories: *Expedition Dispatches *Everest
Elevation: 18,300'

It was time for a big day of hiking.  We’ve been ramping up the activity level, day by day as acclimatization has kicked in.  The goal today was to hike back down valley to get busy on Kalapathar, an 18,300 ft “summit” with big views of Everest and pretty much everything else in our valley.  In classic terms, it isn’t really a summit, just a convenient bump on a ridge which then gets quite technical on its way to the summit of Pumori, a vertical mile overhead.  But Kalapathar is accessible and popular.  And for us, it would involve some good distance and vertical gain and loss… Otherwise known as training.  We went off the main trail soon after leaving Basecamp to avoid the heavy traffic (trekkers, yaks, climbers, porters) and snuck along a quiet and slightly more rugged back path which goes through the abandoned basecamp for Pumori.  We clomped through a few snowfields before rejoining the popular route on Kalapathar that comes up from Gorak Shep.  And then it was just an easy plod upward to the mass of prayer flags at the top.  It is a real treat to be up top without clouds obscuring the surrounding great peaks and today we took advantage of the opportunity, snapping a few hundred digital images in every direction.  Eventually, the wind and cold caused us to beat a hasty retreat back down to Gorak Shep and then we started up the normal track to basecamp.  As expected, the trail was quite busy, but we were still able to make good time… experiencing the cheap thrill of walking at normal (acclimatized) speed past a hundred panting and gasping (unacclimatized) trekkers.
It was fine to relax away what remained of the afternoon in camp after five and a half good hours of walking and scrambling.

Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Views along the trail to Kalapathar- hike from Everest BC.  Photo: JJ Justman Dave Hahn leading the way to Kalapathar. Photo: JJ Justman The 2015 RMI Everest team at Kalapathar. Photo: JJ Justman

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Recent Images From Everest

  • Sherpa teams and guide attempt to navigate through the Khumbu Icefall.  Photo: Dave Hahn
  • Sherpa and guides going through the Khumbu Icefall.  Photo: Dave Hahn
  • Horseshoes at RMI Everest Base Camp. Photo: JJ Justman
  • 2015 Sherpa World Championship Horseshoes. Photo: JJ Justman
  • RMI Guide Dave Hahn joins the Sherpa in some Icefall exploration. Photo: Dave Hahn
  • A looksee at the Icefall confirms continued storm and busted ladders as they are turned around. Photo: Dave Hahn
  • A looksee at the Icefall confirms continued storm and busted ladders as they are turned around. Photo: Dave Hahn
  • RMI Climbers testing out their down suits while at Everest Base Camp.  Photo: Dave Hahn
  • The RMI Sherpa team in their down suits at Everest Base Camp.  Photo: Dave Hahn
  • Khumbu Icefall seen with the new snow from yesterday's storm. Photo: Dave Hahn
  • Dave Hahn leading the RMI Everest team in a training session into the lower section of the Icefall. Photo: JJ Justman
  • Everest BC - Mark Tucker choosing to go with his air game. Photo: Dave Hahn
  • Overnight snow covers Everest Base Camp. Photo: JJ Justman
  • Hanging out in the EBC cook tent on a snowy day. Photo: JJ Justman
  • The RMI Everest team gather for a meal in the cook tent. Photo: JJ Justman
  • Common Tent at Base Camp. RMI Photo Collection
  • Fun and Games at Base Camp on a Rest Day. RMI Photo Collection
  • Views along the trail to Kalapathar- hike from Everest BC.  Photo: JJ Justman
  • Dave Hahn leading the way to Kalapathar. Photo: JJ Justman
  • The 2015 RMI Everest team at Kalapathar. Photo: JJ Justman
  • The 2015 Everest Icefall Doctors- Stout ladder load. Photo: Dave Hahn
  • RMI Guide and Everest BC Manager, Mark Tucker, crushing the ball. Photo: JJ Justman
  • An RMI team playing golf at Everest BC. Photo: Mark Tucker
  • The Everest team training in the lower Khumbu. Photo: JJ Justman
  • The Everest team practices with crampons on ladders. Photo: JJ Justman
  • The Everest team training on fixed ropes in the lower Khumbu. Photo: JJ Justman
  • The Everest team's training day on fixed rope. Photo: JJ Justman
  • The views while hiking to Pumori Camp One.  Photo: Dave Hahn
  • Enjoying the views from Pumori Camp One.  Photo: Dave Hahn
  • The Puja Ceremony for the 2015 RMI Everest Climbing team.  Photo: Dave Hahn
  • The Puja Ceremony at Everest Base Camp.  Photo: Dave Hahn
  • Enjoying the friendship and camaraderie at Everest Base Camp.  Photo: Dave Hahn
  • The 2015 RMI Everest Expedition post Puja ceremony. Photo: JJ Justman
  • RMI communications tent at Everest BC. Photo: Dave Hahn
  • Yaks moving supplies in Everest Base Camp. Photo: Dave Hahn
  • Nuptse from Lobuche, Nepal. Photo: Dave Hahn
  • Italian Pyramid and Pumori at Lobuche. Photo: Dave Hahn
  • Mt. Everest Team trekking into Lobuche. Photo: Dave Hahn
  • Mt. Everest Team Trekking on Trek with Ama Dablam in background. Photo: Dave Hahn
  • Mt. Everest Team with Ama Dablam. Photo: Dave Hahn
  • The Views from Pheriche. Photo: Dave Hahn
  • Rows of Mani Stones between Deboche and Pheriche. Photo: RMI Collection
  • Teahouse in Pheriche, Nepal. Photo: RMI Collection
  • The Tengboche Monastery, Nepal. Photo: RMI Collection
  • Monks in prayer at the Tengboche Monastery. Photo: Linden Mallory
  • On the trail from Namche to Deboche with Ama Dablam looming high above.  Photo: RMI Collection