Remember yesterday when the weather was nice for us...not so much today! We woke up to howling winds and snow. Instead of carrying a load to 17,000', we spent most of the day reinforcing our camp by making our snow block walls higher. It was a good team building exercise. We decided that the team had not really gotten the full "Degnarly" experience before today since our weather and travel has been pretty easy (relatively speaking). We are all safe and sound, hunkered down in our warm sleeping bags, and waiting to see what tomorrow's weather brings. We couldn't possibly have two days of bad weather on Denali right!?
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
We slept for a few hours at Base Camp before the alarm sounded at midnight. Groggily getting out of the tent we were treated to spectacular views of the surrounding mountains, well visible in the bright night sky that looked like the sun had set not long before. The clear skies allowed the temperatures to drop while we were sleeping and the glacier surface was settled into a good frozen surface - exactly what we wanted in order to cross the crevasses of the Kahiltna Glacier. After setting our cache at Base Camp (some extra supplies for our return from the mountain) packing up camp, and wishing Paul a happy birthday, we set out. The first stretch of walking actually descends from Base Camp as we leave the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier and join the main glacier itself. While it makes the first bit of walking relatively easy it is named "Heartbreak Hill" because that same slope must be ascended as the final hurdle to reach Base Camp on the return.
But for us it was smooth sailing this morning and we crossed a particularly crevassed section of glacier past the base of Heartbreak Hill without incident thanks to the solid snow surface. The skies remained bright and the sun returned, lighting up the summits of Mt. Foraker and Mt. Crosson as we passed beneath them. The glacier was in good shape and the team traveled well across it, making it to Camp 1 by 9:30 in the morning.
After pitching camp we lounged around watching a series of thick lenticular clouds (which signify high winds) dance across the summit of Denali. It looked like a cold day to be up high. But down here things got hot as the sun beat down on the tents, heating them up to well over 90F.
We spent the afternoon napping and reading in camp, resting from our all night walk. Tomorrow we hope to move to our second camp at 9600' near the head of the Kahiltna Glacier. The team is in good spirits and everyone is taking to life on the glacier well. We will check in tomorrow.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory
Thanks for the write up. Happy Birthday Paul. Looks like you are off to a good start.
Good luck and keep up thegood work
Stu Beth Sam & Liv
Jazz is studying
Posted by: stu on 6/25/2011 at 3:35 pm
Linden, I can’t tell you how much I appreciate your writing. When an email alert arrives that there is a new posting, my heart does a little “leap”. I am so glad to hear the entire team is doing well. Onward and upward guys!
Posted by: Laurie Colaneri on 6/25/2011 at 6:56 am
Ahhh...rest day. We didn't even begin to move in our tents until the sun moved from behind the mountain and shined directly upon us. We weren't completely worthless since we took a hike over to an area called The Edge of the World where you can look over 6,000' down to the Kahiltna Glacier. We also got some fixed rope practice in as we made the team work their way through a course with ascenders. We finished the gauntlet with a rappel into the posh house for dinner. We hope to carry a load up to 17,000' Camp tomorrow if the weather plays nice.
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
Glad to see that the team is doing well. Patrick I miss you so much and I can not wait to hear about the adventures the mountain brings your way. Stay safe team!
Posted by: Rachel M on 6/25/2011 at 12:15 pm
What a beautiful view. Hoping for good weather. Take care!
Capitalizing on a break in the weather the high winds subsided just long enough to allow us to move up to 17,000 feet for our high camp on Denali. After moving in last night we hunkered down with some full bellies and awoke to a little bit higher winds than we were hoping for, but we're in good shape sitting tight up here at 17 just sort of waiting and watching the weather, so that's all from 17K camp. And I will be checking in soon. Alright. Bye.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
Jake Beren checks in after the team's move to 17,000' Camp
Jake, I was just thinking about your BIG day tomorrow and checked in to see if you were still up on the mountain… looks like you are holding strong up there. Sending you some sunshine and awesome weather tomorrow. Hopefully a summit and down for steak and cake soon :) Happy Birthday! hugs, C
Posted by: KC on 6/25/2011 at 9:10 pm
Jake! Happy Birthday!! Once again you’re on a mountain top at the time of your birthday—so no presents for you, my Beemish Boy. I hope your clients are aware that they lucked out, when they drew you as a guide. How does the the iPad respond to the cold? Stay warm!
Love,aged P’s
Another successful push up the hill brought us to our 14,000' Camp. The team performed wonderfully even with the big loads we were carrying. 14,000' Camp is a huge flat area that has a view up towards the summit looking one way and a view out towards Mt. Foraker and Mt. Hunter the other way. What an incredible place! The sun reflecting off of the snow that surrounds us causes it to be quite hot during the day. When the sun tucks behind the mountain around 9:00 PM, it gets COLD. Like Alaska cold! Go figure. Although our team is a bunch of animals, we are taking a rest day tomorrow.
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
Papa and Shreekanth uncle- hope you guys are entertaining eachother on your day off. Can’t wait to hear all the stories about your adventures!
love you, love yashu
Posted by: Yashu on 6/24/2011 at 8:57 am
Hi Dad! Take it easy tomorrow and keep warm at night! Can’t wait to see pictures, the view from 14,000 sounds pretty nice.
Luv,
Maya and Sarina
Posted by: Maya and Sarina on 6/24/2011 at 2:12 am
The sky never quite darkened outside the drawn shades of the hotel rooms up here in Talkeetna last night and before long the sun was rising in the sky again. We met up at the Roadhouse Cafe this morning where Matt, the final member of our team and a local Alaskan resident, joined us. Over heaping portions of scrambled eggs, bacon, thick slices of toast, and steaming cups of coffee, we toasted the merging of the team and the beginning of the adventures. After spending some time talking through the details of the climb ahead we went over to the National Park Service offices here and checked in with the climbing rangers, collecting our climbing permits and discussing the most recent route conditions with the climbing rangers.
With permits in hand we walked back through the streets of Talkeetna, just starting to bustle with the midday influx of tourist arriving from the Anchorage area, and across the railroad tracks to the air strip where we spent the rest of the day organizing our gear for the climb. We unpacked, sorted, checked, rechecked, and repacked our personal clothing and climbing equipment, inspected our climbing ropes, fired up and tested our stoves, counted our 22 days worth of food, set up and examined our 4 tents, separated the shovels, wands, climbing pickets, and snow saws we will need, and then rechecked everything again - making doubly sure that we are feeling prepared with our equipment. Finally, by later afternoon, a pile of duffels, backpacks, snowshoes, tents, poles, and climbing equipment began to accumulate in the open entrance of the hangar of K2 Aviation. At long last the pile stopped growing and the final last minute items were added. Just before dinner we weighed out all of the bags, carefully checking the weights of each item in order to allow the pilots of the small prop planes we fly in tomorrow so that they can adequately distribute the weight of our loads.
With a full day of packing and preparing for the climb, we retired to the local and legendary eatery and watering hole of the West Rib, indulging in Caribou burgers and Halibut tacos before calling it a day. We are hoping that the clearing skies we see in the afternoon persist into tomorrow allowing us to make the 30 minute flight from Talkeetna into the Alaska Range to Denali Base Camp. There is always the chance that weather either here in Talkeetna or up on the mountain will not cooperate and not allow us to make the flight but spirits are optimistic and we are keeping our fingers crossed the weather shakes out in our favor.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory
We had great weather as we made our way to 14,200' today. Our mission was to carry a load of food and fuel to 14k camp so we can try to move up there tomorrow if the weather permits. The team looked strong as we climbed our way through some pretty windy conditions into the sunshine of "14". We ran into Jake [Beren] and his team. They are waiting to make their move up to 17,000' as soon as the winds die down up top. Looks like there is going to be a party @ 14,200'!
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
Woohoo! Sounds like a fiesta! Hope the wind subsides and that you are staying warm- bet you’re missing some good old malaysian cooking right now after all that trail food, don’t you worry, i’ll eat an extra plate of chicken curry for you. Love you papa.
Posted by: Yashu on 6/23/2011 at 10:45 am
Dr. K we are here at st.marks thinking about you. Wondering if you still have all of your toes or do you need bethany to make you an appointment with Dr. Anderson. Homer want to know if you could bring him back a northern light.? We hope your hike is going well. Take lots of pictures for us and we will see you soon.
Love,
Homer, Scott, dr zimpolich, and the heart crew.
Ps. run like a gazelle!
Posted by: St.Marks Heart Team on 6/23/2011 at 10:26 am
Ominous yet beautiful spoons of spin drift continue to tear across the upper mountain. For now we wait safely at 14 camp passing the time reviewing knots, going on training hikes and practicing skills needed on this expedition.
Our camp at 14,000' is an ideal place for us to wait out the weather so that is what we'll continue to do.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
Hi Everyone
Hope the weather is clearing on the mountain top and you all will be able to move up there soon. Are you cold yet?? We love you Anne Gilbert and are very proud!Dad loved his call from up there. Mom and Dad
Posted by: chris chase on 6/24/2011 at 7:15 am
Glad you are hanging in there. We miss you and can’t wait to hear about your grand adventure.
Posted by: carolyn crandell on 6/24/2011 at 6:34 am
Good evening from the land of the midnight sun. The RMI June 21st Mt. McKinley Expedition Team gathered in Anchorage this afternoon, overcoming the first potential obstacle of any climbing expedition - the moment when you find out if all of the gear that you've spent days and weeks meticulously sorting and packing actually arrives with you after the flights. Thankfully, all the needed bags popped out on to the conveyor belt at Ted Stevens Airport at one point or another.
After loading the van with our gear we headed out of town, low lying clouds hanging above Anchorage and just obscuring the peaks of the Chugach that border town. After a quick grocery stop in Wasilla (yes, the legendary Wasilla, AK) we kept driving up the Parks Highway as the skies gradually broke. By the time we arrived in Talkeetna the mountains of the Alaska Range were beginning to poke out of the clouds in the distance and we spent a few minutes on the edge of town admiring the views.
Tomorrow we will spend the day organizing our gear and getting ready for the mountain. It has been many months of preparation an thousands of miles traveled to arrive here and the excitement about the adventures ahead is growing.
It is 11:30 at night here in Alaska and we just watched the sun finally settle out of the sky, disappearing the peaks of the Alaska Range that sit on the horizon. Happy Summer Solstice to everyone.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory
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go daddy go! stay warm, stay strong, see you SOON.
love,
meer
Posted by: meera on 6/25/2011 at 11:01 pm
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