This is the RMI Alaska Seminar checking in from the snowy Southeast fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. Well, the storm is finally on us as we’re going to be right now. The tents are shaking and the snow is coming down. Today we built some bomber walls that are protecting the wind from our tents. The crew is settling in nicely and looking forward to weathering their first Alaskan storm up here. Hopefully the storm will precip tonight and clear out for tomorrow so we can do some crack rescue training. Stay tuned and we’ll check in tomorrow. Take care.
RMI Guide Jason Thompson
RMI Guide Jason Thompson checks in from the Kahiltna Glacier
Hello to everybody following along!
It's been a couple of days or so since we last checked in but we've been very busy. Yesterday we picked up camp at 11,200' and moved up to 14,200'. The weather was decent for our move but turned south as the evening progressed. We were very glad that we spent the time building walls to protect our tents because the National Park Service weather station recorded gusts to 55 mph last night! Today we back-carried the rest of our supplies from our cache at Windy Corner and spent the rest of the afternoon digging out an elaborate posh (cook tent) despite pretty bad weather (snow & wind).
That's about it for now! Rest day tomorrow...
RMI Guides Billy Nugent, Solveig Garhart and the crew
Also: Drew would like to wish his brother a happy birthday!
Just wanted to say hello and we are thinking of you!! Hope the weather gets better and everything goes smoothly.. Dylan wanted me to tell you he says hello and give you kisses!! :) He is getting so big, can’t wait to skype next!!
wishing you and the team good luck and good weather!!!
LOVE YOU!!!!!
Posted by: Tove on 5/20/2011 at 3:21 pm
I look forward to reading your blog. Stay strong and enjoy!
Drew, I love you and was thinking of you a lot yesterday. Mom
Update: 5:00 pm PST -
Brent and his team got to within 5 minutes of Basecamp on the second flight before having to turn around and fly back to Talkeetna. The weather was just not cooperating.
As of 5:00 pm, the weather is improving and they are going to try it for the third time. Hopefully they will be in Basecamp in a few hours. We’ll keep you posted.
Update: 1 pm PST
Brent called, the team got about 20 minutes from the airstrip when a ground fog rolled in that prevented their landing at Basecamp. The plane is all packed with their gear ready to go, so right now they are back at the K2 Aviation Hanger having a great time celebrating Maile Wade’s birthday…Happy Birthday Maile!
Well, it's day 15 of our trip and our first real storm day. Winds gusted to 55mph last night in camp, are gusty today and it's snowing lightly. We're in good spirits and have a good camp established here at 14k. And we're all optimistic that the weather will improve and give us a chance to move to high camp and go for the summit.
The RMI Team led by Billy Nugent, arrived in Camp 4 last night. It's good to see them; they are doing well. We shared our kitchen with them last night and today, so they have a sheltered spot to cook and eat while they work on excavating theirs today.
Keep your fingers crossed that the weather improves over the next few days. We're hanging tough and doing well...
RMI Guide Mike Walter
Hi Jeff! Missing and thinking of you - hoping for good weather to come your way! I can’t believe it’s day 16 already - everyone from home says hi and is rooting for you. I am so proud of you, stay focused. Miss and love you lots!
Erica
Posted by: Erica on 5/20/2011 at 7:18 am
Hey Ken, Windy there, rainy here! We have had almost a week of overcast rainy weather. Ally and I are hoping the weather changes for the climb soon. The sun is suppose shine here tomorrow. All is well at the restaurant. Graduation is tomorrow. Pizza place still not open. We miss but are keeping busy. Love you Cathy & Ally!!
Tomorrow begins the 21st chapter of my personal McKinley saga. It’s late and I’m kind of all packed up. Funny how after all these years of leading these expeditions the excitement just builds as I approach the date when we begin the trip. That day is tomorrow, when the other guides, Leon and Maile, and I fly up to Anchorage to meet the group and begin the expedition.
Both Leon and Maile are veteran McKinley guides. Leon guided with me two years ago, and Maile cut her teeth last year on her first trip. I’m pretty lucky to have these two guides working with me. Not only do they both have prior Denali experience, but they are great to work with. And it goes without saying, one of the key things to a successful, fun expedition is how folks get along on a trip. For three weeks we will be working hard, struggling at times, dealing with a sometimes uncomfortable and unforgiving environment. So the people we are literally tied to, day in and day out, really make or break a trip.
I know a fair number of the climbers on our trip, though not everyone. But that is also part of the fun of these expeditions: getting to know a group of people on a pretty intense level. I’m looking forward to it!
Reflecting on the relationships forged on these climbing adventures I just need to look back a few hours ago when I received an email from a team mate from my 1991 Everest trip. We noted that it was our 20th anniversary this week of our summit of that mountain. A different time in mountaineering history, to be sure, but what’s certainly not lost is that sense of companionship, team work and whatever else happens within a group of climbers when they set off to climb a big mountain like Everest… or Denali.
Perhaps even more meaningful was another email I got today from a climber with me last year who just ‘called out’ to wish me all the best for my upcoming climb. His outreach reminded me again of just how special these trips are. I guess I’m feeling pretty darned fortunate to be doing what I’m doing.
RMI Guide Brent Okita
Hello. This is the RMI Alaska Mountaineering Seminar checking in from our camp at 7,300 feet on the Kahiltna Glacier. It's 11 PM here in Alaska and the team is in bed for the night. Just came back from a successful summit day on Mt. Francis. The team was 100% successful and cruised the route in just under 11 hours. We had beautiful weather, clear skies, and just a little bit of wind. Everyone climbed strong and we're looking forward to getting back to training tomorrow. Take care.
RMI Guide Eric Frank
RMI Guide Eric Frank checks in after Mt. Francis summit
Congratulations all. Where are the pictures? Have fun training tomorrow - hopefully weather will hold well.
Tell Jitendar we cant wait for him to get back home. Kids miss Dad!! Love,Mamta
Posted by: Rao Family on 5/19/2011 at 7:33 pm
Congratulations on the summit of Mt. Francis. I saw the 360 panorama on you tube, very cool!, Tell McKinley to enjoy her leisure time as I am putting her to work sailing as crew with Captain Bligh Max Lenker on a 44 ft. Island Packet sail boat on an exploratory trip to Culebra and Vieques in the Spanish Virgin Islands. I have another crew hired named Michael McDaniel. Sailing Virgin Islands 2 - 12 June. Good luck tomorrow. Post some pictures. Max
The weather is very comfortable here at 14k- lots of sun, light winds, and reasonable temps; but the winds persist up high. Wind speeds are around 40 mph at high camp, and probably 50-60 mph at Denali Pass and the summit.
We climbed to the base of the fixed lines today (a little over 1000' above camp), just to stretch the legs and get some exercise. It felt good to climb for a couple of hours.
Now we're back at camp, lounging around and waiting for the winds to ease so we can move to high camp and get a crack at the summit.
The team appreciates everyone's comments on the blog...keep them coming!
RMI Guide Mike Walter
I am back in Denver. I guess Ed, Seth, Mark and I would still be sitting there with you guys. Hang in there and be safe!
Posted by: Kevin Duncan on 5/19/2011 at 12:48 pm
Hi David,
Hope you are enjoying your climbing adventure and that your team stays safe. Liam still talks about your Mt. Hood climb. Wishing you the best from a very flat Chicago suburb. Susan, Dave and Liam.
This is Solveig checking in from Mt. McKinley. We left camp today at 11 am for our carry to 13,200’. Three hours of walking up Motorcycle Hill, Squirrel Hill, across the Polo field, and around Windy Corner to our cache site. Gusting winds and cool temperatures subsided as we approached our cache, a welcome relief. We took a nice break and buried 12 days worth of food, fuel and extra gear. Eager to be back in the shelter of camp we hustled downhill. Everyone is now relaxing after dinner and hot drinks. The forecast calls for moderate wind and continued low pressure throughout the week. So weather permitting we will make our move up to 14,000’ feet.
We will check in again soon.
RMI Guide Solveig Garhart
Good to hear from the Team again. We are watching your progress. So nice to see the Weather is good and you are eating well and having fun. Miss you Michael.
Love…Mom & Dad
Posted by: Kathleen Esposito on 5/19/2011 at 6:15 pm
So happy the weather is holding up thus far for you! All is well here. I hope the experience continues to be incredible! Love and Miss you Drew!
We awoke at Camp 4 to clouds and light wind, but winds are still strong up high on the ridge to the 17,200' camp. So we're still here at 14,000', waiting for good weather. Fortunately it's pretty pleasant down here in camp. We have plenty of food and fuel, so we'll just wait until the winds subside in order to move up higher. We're all eager to climb, but also patient for good weather to arrive. We all know this is part of expedition climbing...waiting for a good weather window, resting, and acclimating.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
Greetings from Wilsonville! We are all wishing you luck here at work. Enough with this wind already…I told mother nature to be kinder today! Take care, Leslie
Posted by: Leslie on 5/19/2011 at 11:30 am
great picture of the climbing team! you all look ready and able to do this thing—-now if the weather cooperates. have fun ; enjoy the journey and take pleasure in the destination.
A weak low pressure system over the mountain has brought an increase in clouds today, but it's still pretty pleasant at Camp 4. More significant than the clouds, is a high pressure system to our east that has increased the winds up high. Today it looks like it is blowing in the 35 mph range at high camp, and winds are forecasted to increase to 70 mph in the next few days.
So for now, we're still on standby, hoping the winds dissipate quickly so we can move up high soon. The team is in good spirits and eager to climb. Camp 4 is a good place to be waiting, as we have a very comfortable camp and we're acclimating and getting stronger each day we spend here at 14,200'.
We'll keep you updated with our status and the weather outlook.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
Keep at it Jeff,
You are a continued source of inspiration! Stay safe and enjoy each moment!
Our love and thoughts,
Erik and Meredith
P.S. Got the postcard-love it. Cheers!!
Posted by: Erik on 5/18/2011 at 10:20 pm
David,
Paul and I are sending good weather vibes your way! Have a safe climb!
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Hey Solveig!!!
Just wanted to say hello and we are thinking of you!! Hope the weather gets better and everything goes smoothly.. Dylan wanted me to tell you he says hello and give you kisses!! :) He is getting so big, can’t wait to skype next!!
wishing you and the team good luck and good weather!!!
LOVE YOU!!!!!
Posted by: Tove on 5/20/2011 at 3:21 pm
I look forward to reading your blog. Stay strong and enjoy!
Drew, I love you and was thinking of you a lot yesterday. Mom
Posted by: Shirl on 5/20/2011 at 2:59 pm
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