Entries from Mt. McKinley

Friday, June 25, 2021 - 6:35 pm PT

This will be our third night hunkered down at 9,500' on the Kahiltna Glacier.  It got snowing around midnight last night and just kept going.  We checked the weather every hour or so to see if we could get a lull for climbing, but no.  Thankfully the winds never got to more than about 20 mph, but they blew steadily throughout the day.  We’d taken the precaution of pulling down the dining/cook tent at 1 AM so it was an easy enough thing to build it again at 8 AM to have a dry and calm space for breakfast.  Bagels and salmon and a few laughs together before we climbed back in the tents to ride out the storm.  By dinner time the snow was falling thick and fast and we were happy to be high enough to be avoiding rain.  With dinner complete we did a round or two of chores to strengthen our camp and then crawled in for the night.  According to the forecast, tomorrow should be partly sunny.  Until then it will be anybody’s guess as to how many hours of noise we’ll endure as the wind and snow pummel the tent fabric. 

Cheers, 

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Friday, June 25, 2021 - 12:41 pm PT

The snow and wind from yesterday persisted through the night and into the morning, and now, at midday it continues. The weather is forecast to improve as we move into the weekend, and we are poised to move to 14,000' when that moment arises. In the meantime we're lounging, reading, snoozing, and also digging out our tents. Spirits are high as we continue to weather our first Denali storm. We're all all looking forward to seeing the sun again and getting back to our upward progression. Hard days of climbing and long days waiting out storms are hallmarks of a Denali expedition.

"...snow falls and it passes..."

We'll touch base again tomorrow to let you know the latest.

RMI Guide Mike Walter

Hold onto your hats it's windy,

The wind started last night and persisted through the day. The frost in the tents showered down onto our sleeping bags as the tent made a crinkle noise. The snow that had fallen got picked up and tossed into the air creating a snow tornado. It looked magical in a way but our sleeping bags looked better. Its easy to hunker in the tents when outside isn't too pleasant. You can hear the wind up high. It sounds like a waterfall. Luckily at our camp it's only blowing in the 20mph range. As dinner wrapped up the wind and snow caused quite a scene. A scene not too fun to go to the bathroom in. All around the snow whips around. We all waited for a lull in the wind to hustle to our tents and the bathroom.  The discomfort is comical and creates some good laughs. If you can't find the funny in the misery than you are in the wrong place out here. Tomorrow is also suppose to be windy so we will hunker in again. We are optimistic that this weekend will be our move date to High Camp. For now, we lay in our tents listening to the snow pitter patter and the tent crinkle in the wind.

Mother nature calm yourself,

RMI Guide Hannah Smith and team

Thursday, June 24, 2021 - 12:48 pm PT

It's been windy and snowy today at the 11,200' Denali Camp, although we caught glimpses of blue sky above us occasionally this morning. We're all cozied up in our tents after a big breakfast. We're content to rest and relax, enjoying some reading and some napping. We're at a great altitude for acclimatization, so we're (hopefully) getting stronger for our next mission, which will be to move up to Genet Basin at 14,200'. That will happen on the next good weather day, perhaps tomorrow but more likely Saturday or Sunday. We'll keep you apprised of our status. But for now we're happy, hydrated, and comfortable in our current camp.

RMI Guide Mike Walter

Thursday, June 24, 2021

It clouded up a bunch in the night, just as the forecast said it would. By 1 AM when we hoped to get up and climb, it was snowing and socked in, just like they said it would be.  We kept checking it for a few hours and it kept seeming wet and a little ugly -poor conditions for moving camp.  We stayed put and then conditions improved.  But we were already a little past what we’d calculated to be the optimal time of day for traversing the sometimes tricky lower glacier.  Then conditions improved considerably.,. Where we’d been led to believe that we’d have a snow/rain day to wait out, instead we had a “bluebird” beauty of a day -to rest- when we hadn’t really thought we needed a rest.  Oh well.  We slept, we read, we ate, we drank.  We went through our gear and supplies one more time, thinning out and weeding excess weight wherever possible.  We listened to a thousand giant avalanches.  We heard so many rocks fall off nearby Mt. Francis, that it was something of a surprise to come out for dinner and see her still standing.  We bided our time.  That forecast was still calling for cloud and sloppy weather at basecamp tonight… perhaps we’ll see that, but otherwise it looks perfect for moving this time when the cool hours roll around. 

Best Regards,

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Wednesday, June 23, 2021 - 9:54 pm PT

Hello hello,

There isnt a lot to report today. It was another chill day, hanging around our camp. We watched other teams do their carries or move into camp. More teams have arrived at 14,000' Camp. Everyone is trying to get in a good position for the next snow storm. During dinner the winds picked up and snow began to fall. The sound of the snow on the tents is a nice lull to fall asleep too. More snow is expected for tomorrow, so we will be hanging around camp again. Still patient. Still waiting. But our time will come. For now we are all snuggled into our sleeping bags, warming up our sleeping space.

Goodnight all,

RMI Guide Hannah Smith and team

Wednesday, June 23, 2021 - 5:55 pm PT

The alpenglow was serene early this morning as we fired up the stoves to make hot water for breakfast. We got off to an early start and loaded up our packs with food and fuel to cache up high. Armed with crampons and ice axes we ventured onto the upper mountain. We climbed Motorcycle Hill and then Squirrel Hill in the shade, encountering a chilly breeze on the latter. Next came the Polo Field and then we finally hit the sun at Windy Corner. Our team made good progress and the weather was perfect, so we continued higher to Genet Basin to make our cache. We were afforded beautiful views of the upper mountain, as well as Mounts Hunter & Foraker and the rest of the Alaska Range to our south, and the expansive tundra to our north.

We buried our supplies in the snow and then descended back to camp, arriving before 3pm with enough time for a siesta before dinner.

We're sitting pretty now, with a cache up high. We'll take a rest day tomorrow, which coincides well with an approaching storm. Once that storm passes we plan to move camp up to 14k on the next good weather day. In the meantime we're tasked with resting, eating, reading, and some well earned sloth time. We acclimate very well at this altitude (11,200'), and we're very satisfied with our progress. We'll check in again tomorrow in between the chapters of our books.

RMI Guide Mike Walter

Yesterday we got to the air strip nice and early. We arrived at the Kahiltna Glacier air strip at 7 am after a long trip down from 17,000' Camp. Unfortunately the weather was not conducive to flying until 6:30 pm, but we made it off! The team was excited to get back to Talkeetna and enjoy hot showers and food. Now everyone is working their way back home. It’s been a successful Denali expedition and thanks so much for following along!

RMI Guide JT Schmitt and the Denali team 

Wednesday, June 23, 2021

At 2:30 this morning, things looked pretty optimal for moving on up the hill.  There were still clouds coming and going, but the glacier surface had frozen up nicely and there wasn’t much for wind.  We dressed up, ate, packed up and got moving by just after 5 AM.  Ski Hill needed climbing.  Definitely tougher terrain to move on than yesterday’s level stretches, but far fewer crevasses to deal with.  One hour took us halfway up, a second hour brought us to the flat at 9,000 ft and a final pull got the team onto the rolling plateau at 9,500 ft.  We were plotting out a new camp in the snow by 8:35, just before the sun hit the upper reaches of the Kahiltna Glacier.  It was pleasantly colder in our new home… just the way it should be.  We hope that any storms will now be snow rather than rain, but we shall see.  One is forecasted for tomorrow.  We may have to wait it out here, but our hope is to sneak up to 11,000 tomorrow morning before it hits.  We rested away the afternoon as the clouds built up.  Even with them we enjoyed some views far down the glacier.  Not quite to its terminus 44 miles away, but in the neighborhood for sure.  Dinner was devoured in our comfy dining tent on benches cut in the snow.  All are feeling good and pulling strong. 

Best Regards,

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Tuesday, June 22, 2021 - 11:22 pm PT

Hi,

Patience and more patience. Every day we look at the forecast and wonder how accurate will it be. Is the weather system going to happen or will it be nice out. Its a part of expedition life that is difficult. When do we move? Is this our time? Does it get better or worse? But no one truly knows. Its all in retrospect that we deliberate the decision and know the answer. So we wait. We wait for a forecast that is better than marginal. We have plenty of food and fuel to see if the winds will get better in the next handful of days. Patience is key. In due time it will be our moment, so we wait.

Good night,

RMI Guide Hannah Smith and team