Entries from Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

June 13, 2015 4:31pm PST The final day of waiting and preparation... We hope! Today is a calm and sunny day at 14 camp, although the small plumes of snow still sail above us on the West Buttress ridge and upper mountain. With groups of climbers from around the world stacking up over the last week of poor weather, the headwall and fixed lines were crawling with dozens of folks on the move -- Making for one full boat on the route today. Our decision to stall and let the hoards move on and winds continue to die down will hopefully give us a smooth and ultimately safer move. We want to work smarter not harder and like a raven sailing on the afternoon thermals give our team the best and smoothest climb we at RMI can offer. Thank you all for the comments, wish us luck and we hope to check in from high camp tomorrow! Cheers! RMI Guide Tyler Jones & Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Ken, you guys are so close! Sounds like you have a. Dry smart guide and a great team. I know you are all about working smarter and not harder. We learn a lot together at work, i can’t wait to all of the life lessons and self discover you must be experiencing on this trip. Praying for clear ski so you and your team can work smart and make it to the top.

Posted by: Dennis Canevari on 6/13/2015 at 9:40 pm

D.G., Prayers for success and safety to all. Ted has his fingers crossed. Love you, Mom

Posted by: Caroline Clayton on 6/13/2015 at 7:46 pm

Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Reach Camp 1

June 13, 2015

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Mike Uchal, Pepper Dee

Elevation: 7,800'

Friday June 12th 11:25 pm PT Upon our late arrival at Base Camp the weather started turning nasty, so we set up tents and burrowed into our sleeping bags. Lo and behold, upon awakening the skies had cleared and the mountain beckoned! We broke camp and descended the Southeast Fork Kahiltna to the Main Fork, turned up-glacier and headed toward Camp 1. The glacier route is in prime condition and we reached our camp in several hours taking in the spectacular mountain views around us. Everyone in the team is doing great and looking forward to our next objective, Camp ll. More later! RMI Guide Mike Haugen

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Checks in From 14K Camp

June 13, 2015

Posted by: Geoff Schellens, Eric Frank

Elevation: 14,200'

Friday June 12th 10:30 pm PT A blog post brought to you by Kim, Pete and Phillip: We awoke to clear blue skies and stellar views of the Alaska Range. It was followed by an exquisite breakfast of fluffy blueberry and granola pancakes, topped with a wild cherry compote. Then we made a six-feet deep hole and went to "The Edge of the World". Weather is looking better and we are hopeful that we will move up the mountain this weekend. We are looking forward to moving higher up on the mountain, since we are all rested up having slept more in the past few nights than we have in the last month. Clearly we are enjoying the mountain lifestyle, but ready for the next challenges. Viele Grüße vom Berg, cheers The Gang P.S. Hi Sophia! XO love Aunt Kim

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Glad all is going well. We had dinner with the family tonight. We all are very excited for you.
Love
Mom and Dad

Posted by: MaryAnn and Arthur on 6/13/2015 at 6:47 pm

Hi Aunt Kim!!! Thanks for giving me a shout-out on the mountain- now I’m famous!! Good Luck with your big climb!!!
Xoxoxo
Sophia
PS I wouldn’t want to be with a bunch of boys- they may have cooties!

Posted by: Sophia Rose on 6/13/2015 at 3:29 pm

Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Build Their Fortress

June 13, 2015

Elevation: 14,200'

Friday June 12th 10:10 pm PT Fortress at 14k on Mount McKinley! Today was a clear day but the winds raged as the high pressure slowly comes our way! The fortress of snow-block walls now fully encloses our tents and cook house with an entry straight from stone hedge! A giant block caps the archway leading into our dojo! The wind still whips as plumes of blowing snow briefly create little to no visibility in camp. A blue bird day that is hampered by a ground blizzard. If you ask me this is what the experience of Denali is all about. In the next few days the wind will likely subside and crystal clear skies, warm and breathless air will remain. Fingers crossed we will get our perfect day to climb and stand atop the highest point in North America. Till then we'll hang low in our tents basking in our BO stir fry;). RMI Guide Tyler Jones

Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Arrive at Base Camp

June 12, 2015

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Mike Uchal, Pepper Dee

Elevation: 7,300'

After some long trips from our respective homes, our crew arrived in Anchorage and formed the super team, "El Siete" (RMI Team Seven). We made the journey to Talkeetna, AK the day before yesterday and started to prepare for our flight onto the mountain. We spent yesterday packing in the hanger. The weather did not seem to be on our side and the probability of us flying into base camp on time seemed very small. We figured we would be joining all of the other teams that had been doing the "Talkeetna Wait" for days. We woke up today anticipating that we would not fly this morning and we were not wrong. After a good breakfast, lunch, and a few wanders around town, we planned on getting a pizza and watching the NBA finals. As soon as the crew started to get into the game, the flight service called and told us there was a small window for us to fly. So here we are on the glacier ready to climb the big one. If you did not get a call from us before we left, we were in a mad rush and we will get back to you after we summit! RMI Guide Mike Haugen & Team

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Keep the pictures coming. Glad all is going well.
Love
Mom and Dad

Posted by: MaryAnn and Arthur on 6/14/2015 at 11:47 am

Not sure first e-mail got to you. Stay warm, stay safe and have a great time
Love
Mom and Dad

Posted by: MaryAnn and Arthur on 6/13/2015 at 6:57 pm

Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Carry to 14’ Camp

June 12, 2015

Posted by: Jake Beren, Christina Dale, Andrew Kiefer

Elevation: 11,200'

June 11, 2015 11:17pm PST What a day! We woke early to begin the day's nowcasting (real time weather) to see if it was workable to put a cache higher on the mountain. Motorcycle Hill stayed more or less visible throughout breakfast, so we decided to give it a shot. As we climbed higher the weather smiled upon us. Little wind and some good reports from our friends up at 14 Camp and we just kept on trucking. Arriving at 14 Camp was a real treat. Hugs from the other RMI teams as well as a pre dug cache hole made for a solid foray to our future home. Thanks again guys! Now back down in camp at 11, we are about to sleep. Tomorrow we plan to rest. With any luck our forecast for improving conditions (thanks guys) verifies and we hope to move higher soon. June 12, 2015 3:52pm PST Ahhhh. It has been a great day today. So far we have had a leisurely brunch followed by some excellent chatting in our kitchen tent. Then some spice sampling followed by headstand yoga practicing. Now the team is napping and reading. The weather has been quite pleasant here in camp, but sure looked windy up high this morning. All in all a perfect day to sit tight and recover after a few big days of climbing. With any luck Denali will let us up a little higher tomorrow. If so, we'll be ready. RMI Guide Jake Beren & Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Here’s hoping the great weather continues—sounds like a wonderful experience although I’m not sure about “headstand yoga”? Bill—I know she’s so much smaller but seeing Rainier in the sun down here reminds us of your adventure up there.

Posted by: Wolf & Leilani on 6/13/2015 at 3:25 pm

Really great work Meredith and the whole team! I’m so in awe of this epic effort being put forth. Miss you back home but I love picturing you rockin’ in out up there.
Keep up the great job!

Posted by: Geoff on 6/13/2015 at 1:20 pm

Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Train at 14,000’

June 12, 2015

Posted by: Geoff Schellens, Eric Frank

Elevation: 14,200'

June 11, 2015 10:02pm With unsettled weather upon us we slept in this morning had a nice brunch and spent the afternoon reviewing some technical skills. We discussed some of the techniques we will use and practiced removing and stowing various types of gear as we climb. The team is anxious to get climbing but there is nothing we can do until the weather improves. For now we are enjoying long meals, funny stories, and some good naps. That's all for now. Thanks for following along and keep your fingers crossed for some good weather up here on Denali. RMI Guides Eric Frank, Geoff Schellens & Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hi Kim & Co.!!! I am no Al Roker but surely things must be getting better in your neck of the woods!!! Fingers crossed that the snow is done for the time being!!! Btw Sophia is auditioning for the role of Flounder on Monday (Ariel’s sidekick)...
Hugs &kisses;
Ron the Potato, Jerome, Adam Richman, Mark Klein & me

Posted by: Lora on 6/12/2015 at 7:30 pm

Hi Kim, I hope there is a dramatic improvement in the weather so that you & the team can move upward! Hopefully, tomorrow (Saturday) will be the “big’ day where the snow will stop,the sun will shine & the winds will be calm!!! I am sending positive weather vibes your way! Travel safe & stay well! Love, Dad

Posted by: SHEL on 6/12/2015 at 4:58 pm

Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Adventure to the Edge of the World

June 11, 2015

Elevation: 14,200'

Thursday June 11th 5:50 pm PT Again we remain at 14,000 foot camp as we wait for the weather to turn for a summit bid. The snow keeps coming down around here like coconut flakes sprinkled on ice cream. We did take advantage of a short break in the clouds this morning to walk to the Edge of the World, a viewpoint to the northeast fork of the Kahiltna several thousand feet below. Waddling out onto the saddle rock is an existential experience indeed, having all that air underneath you really makes you feel alive! After our trek to the Edge of the World, we enjoyed a nice mid-morning brunch. With chilly temperatures and a light breeze we crawled back into our tents for an afternoon reading session. A few hours later we greeted Jake's team, who carried from 11K Camp. It was nice to see his team, they all seemed to be doing well. Keep sending good weather vibes our way! RMI Guide Tyler Jones

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Ken we are all still pulling for you. I know you are having a great time seeing some amazing sights. Can’t wait to hear about it when you get back. Praying for good weather so you can make that summit. Dennis

Posted by: Dennis Canevari on 6/12/2015 at 5:46 pm

Ken, here’s a poem for you and the team…

And the day came when the risk to remain tight in a bud was more painful than the risk it took to blossom. Anais Nin

Posted by: Anna Fisher on 6/12/2015 at 2:01 pm

Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Waiting for a Break

June 11, 2015

Elevation: 14,200'

Wednesday June 10th 5:30 pm PT Today brings more snow to Mt. McKinley at 14,000ft. After coffee, bagels and bacon everyone spent a few hours lounging in their tents before starting the afternoon projects. The camp project consisted of building an enclosed toilet. A true architectural feat, I might add. The secondary project was a remodel of the posh tent, which consisted of lowering the floor to give us a bit more headroom. Our camp looks great and hopefully we will get some good weather coming our way this weekend. RMI Guide Tyler Jones

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Back Carry from 11K Camp

June 11, 2015

Posted by: Jake Beren, Andrew Kiefer, Christina Dale

Elevation: 11,200'

Wednesday, June 10th 10:15 pm PT The winds subsided enough today to allow us safe passage back to our buried cache at 9,600 feet. It was a fun stroll and though we broke trail in a full whiteout to get there, we enjoyed extremely pleasant walking conditions on our quest for the rest of our snacks. The afternoon held time for a nap and a review of climbing techniques before dinner. If the weather cooperates we are set to jet and bump a load higher on the route tomorrow. Wish us luck! RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Good going AJ and team! Hope you guys are having fun at your adventure. Good luck and be safe.

Posted by: Charu on 6/12/2015 at 3:00 pm

I was reading the Jones Team blog and it sounds like your group has already been up to the 1400 foot point. Way to go! Keep it up!

Posted by: Norm Vork on 6/12/2015 at 7:34 am