Entries from Mt. McKinley

Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Bides Their Time

June 10, 2015

Posted by: Geoff Schellens, Eric Frank

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

All of the pieces are in place for an attempt on the Upper West Rib, now we are just waiting on the weather. With yesterday's carry to 16,400ft we have had a chance to stress our bodies and progress the acclimatization process. The weather in the Alaska range can be a fickle thing. Moisture from the south mixes with frigid temperatures from the north, and the resulting scale of weather can be anything from light snow flakes to true arctic blizzards. Right now we are in a holding pattern waiting for the snow to stop. It has only snowed a few inches today, but two feet are predicted for the coming 48 hours. With our shovels at the ready we are waiting to see if the prediction comes true. There is a silver lining to the forecast, however. It appears as though after this round of snowfall, the weather will stabilize and we may get our window to climb. That is still a few days out, but we are hopeful. The highlight around camp today was a potluck style lunch. After two weeks on the glacier a little variety in the daily diet was a welcomed change. Thanks for following along, and if anyone feels like overnight shipping a snowblower and a few gallons of gas our way, it would be much appreciated. RMI Guides Geoff Schellens, Eric Frank and the UWR team.

Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Carry to 16,400’

June 10, 2015

Posted by: Eric Frank, Geoff Schellens

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 16,400'

June 9, 2015, 9:46 pm PT The weather forecast has been calling for an impending storm, luckily it held off until late this afternoon. This morning we woke, ate a quick breakfast, and rigged for caching up on the Rib. With light loads and good climbing conditions the team made good time as we worked our way up to the West Rib. Clouds and light winds picked up in the afternoon and we decided to cache at 16,400'. Clouds enveloped us on our decent and the winds kicked up shortly after we returned to 14 Camp. The team did great and we are now in a great position to push higher when the weather allows. Everyone is well and looking forward to more climbing. Until we get our weather window we are maintaining excitement by focusing on the small things. For example, tomorrow we are planning a potluck lunch and maybe some competitive napping. That's all for now. Thanks for following along with us. RMI Guide Geoff Schellens

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Kimmer!!! Y’all are amazeballs!!!! Way to go!!! I must quote Dr. Shelly now “things are getting very exciting”!!! Marina & Sophia say hello and give you kisses!! Have you made a Pringles, pb&j quesadilla yet???
Xoxoxo
Lora

Posted by: Lora on 6/10/2015 at 11:51 am

Hi Kim, Great update! We are all so pleased that you & the team are on the “move”! Wow…16,400’ for the carry! Now lets all hope the weather “breaks” soon & you have a great “window” that will allow the team to take the next big “step”! Travel safe & stay well!! Love, Dad

Posted by: SHEL on 6/10/2015 at 8:39 am

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Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Sitting Pretty at 14,200’

June 9, 2015

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Lindsay Mann, Chase Nelson

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

June 9, 2015, 4:22 pm PT Last night we had a fiesta with the Upper West Rib team. It was a posh full of laughs, stories, and quesadillas. This morning we slept in and enjoyed a bagel and salmon breakfast over stories and Via coffee. The team spent most of the day in the posh battling it out at Phase Ten (a card game). The rest of the day has been spent lounging and grazing on food. We are hoping for some good weather this weekend and with good neighbors, good food, and some good tunes we are sitting pretty up here at 14,000'. RMI Guide Tyler Jones

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We miss you so much and can’t wait to hear about your adventure!
Hope you’re kicking everyone’s butt at phase ten and taking lots of pictures!
See you soon!
Love Jennifer, Lila & Owen
xox

Posted by: Jen on 6/12/2015 at 11:24 am

Mark & Dave,
Hey boys, glad to hear you guys are steadily making your way to the top! We are on the blog every chance we get, hoping for the next post on how you guys are doing and Lila love to tell me that “Daddy is hiking in the mountains with Unkey Dave”

Posted by: Jennifer on 6/11/2015 at 8:53 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Move to 11,200’ Camp

June 9, 2015

Posted by: Jake Beren, Christina Dale, Andrew Kiefer

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

June 9, 2015, 3:39 pm PT Awaking to light snow and little wind yesterday we decided to see if moving was realistic. Denali decided to make us earn it and we climbed through consistent wind and snow to make it up here. The team did great, and evening found us snug in our sleeping bags. This morning we battled the same wind and snow that followed us up from 7,800' as we fortified our living space, building artistic (yet functional) walls to protect us from the elements. This afternoon we will rest and recover from a few big days before retrieving our cache and sending a new one higher on the route. Great to be posted up higher on the Great One. RMI Guide Jake Beren

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Hi Meredith! We are following your progress like hawks. Kim and I pray for your guys, your happiness, and your safety. Hope this is everything you dreamed it would be and more. We are taking good care of each other and each time we are together, we think of you!
David

Posted by: David on 6/10/2015 at 3:18 pm

Hi Meredith! Hope you are having fun and that the sunny skies return. Thinking of you!!!!!!

Posted by: Christi on 6/10/2015 at 8:21 am

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Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Getting Strong at 14,000’ Camp

June 8, 2015

Posted by: Eric Frank, Geoff Schellens

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

June 8, 2015, 6:16 pm PT Not too much to report from camp today. The weather was moderate, but not good enough to coax us out for a walk or carry up hill. At this point the team is just focusing on resting, meeting the neighbors and getting ready to utilize the next window of good weather. Speaking of neighbors, the most exciting news of the day is that we are joining Tyler Jones' team for dinner tonight. After ten days on the glacier together, the whole team is ready to interact with some new faces and hear new stories. Tyler's team was nice enough to invite invite us over for a round of loaded quesadillas. The only remaining question is what we should take as a house warming gift. RMI Guides Geoff Schellens and Eric Frank

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Looks like it is going to be a good time while having a great climb.

Posted by: Kevin Stone on 6/10/2015 at 10:54 am

Sounds like a big RMI shindig. I certainly hope Pete brought his guitar for dinner entertainment purposes.

What? He left it home? Are you kidding me?

Good luck to you all.

Art Muir

Posted by: Art Muir on 6/9/2015 at 2:06 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Ascend Fixed Lines

June 8, 2015

Posted by: Chase Nelson, Lindsay Mann, Tyler Jones

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

June 8, 2015, 4:37 pm PT Firing the Fixed lines! Today it was a good day. We woke in the bitter cold at 14 camp and slowly rose from our warm down feathers. With coffee and a bowl of granola we clipped in to our ropes. Finding rather pleasant walking conditions, we smoothly flowed up the slopes below the Headwall then gained the fixed lines up to 16,200ft. Our last 20 minutes up the lines provided brisk winds and motivated our super strong team to depart the lines and pass the ridge where the winds became a light breeze. This was a welcome way to spend our break and unload our final cache of food and fuel for our summit push! The team prepared for the descent back down in the brisk wind. With the confidence of great mountaineers we smoothly cruised down to our camp. Then a session with our grand lunch sacks along with a well deserved afternoon nap. The evening will be a group dinner with the West Rib crew. Likely to consist of big fried quesadillas laughter and friendships forged! Till tomorrow, Positive Vibes! RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Lindsay Mann & Chase Nelson

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Ken,
We’re all pulling for you and the team. Enjoy your last few days on the mountain.Looking forward to all the stories.
Jim

Posted by: Jim Rowe on 6/9/2015 at 4:55 pm

Ken, you and the team are getting closer every day. I am excited for you. Hang in there, enjoy the journey as you pursue that dream. Thoughts, prayers, and positive vibes all headed your way.
Dennis

Posted by: Dennis on 6/9/2015 at 7:57 am

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Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Builds a Snow Fortress

June 8, 2015

Posted by: Geoff Schellens, Eric Frank

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

June 8, 2015, 10:59 am PT After a strenuous day getting to 14 Camp yesterday, we slept in this morning. The sun crept into camp around 9:15 am and we slow crawled out of our tents shortly thereafter. The weather today was pretty good but the forecast is calling for some more snow and wind so we spent the day building giant snow walls around our camp and resting. The team is doing very well and acclimating well. If the weather is good tomorrow we might go do a short walk up the West Rib but either way we are dug in here at 14,200' and are ready for whatever the weather gods allow us to do. That's all for now. RMI Guide Geoff Schellens

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team’s First Night at 14K Camp

June 7, 2015

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Chase Nelson

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

June 7, 2015, 9:45 pm PT After surviving our first chilly night at 14K Camp, everyone walked into the posh this morning to the sweet smell of blueberry pancakes. Cooking at 14,000ft is quite difficult on any day but Tyler made pancakes that would have made Grandpa Jerry proud. Post breakfast we took advantage of the nice weather and prepared our camp for a nuclear winter. Hopefully the weather will stay nice but if not we are prepared for the worst. After our wall building session we did some more training for the upper mountain. The guides set up a fixed-line obstacle course that everyone marched around in like a group of trained gorillas. Tomorrow we hope to carry to the top of the fixed lines, but as always, we will see what Mother Nature brings. RMI Guide Tyler Jones

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Congrats to all for your new found height! I am in awe of all. Went golfing in Victor Utah today. Sunny and 76 is good anywhere I suppose

Posted by: Frank Suring on 6/8/2015 at 4:26 pm

Everyone I know that knows you has their fingers crossed for good weather to hold.

Posted by: Mike Taylor on 6/8/2015 at 8:43 am

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Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Hit The Glacier Running

June 7, 2015

Posted by: Jake Beren, Andrew Kiefer, Christina Dale

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,800'

Sunday, June 7, 2015 7:42 pm PT Yesterday we stormed the Kahiltna Glacier, officially ending our occupation of Talkeetna. We were able to catch an early afternoon flight, skirting the clouds and safely getting ourselves and all our groceries into the mountains! We expected a huge backlog of climbers at basecamp, and there were more than a few parties waiting to get off the mountain. However a buried tent city resembling a parking lot of white Fiats, was nowhere to be found. We landed to spectacular views and decided to hit the ground running. Making it to 7,800 Camp in the evening was a great start to the climb. Today we got a reasonable start to the day, leaving camp at mid morning and carrying to 9,700 feet. It was a pleasant day for walking, with enough cloud cover to keep us from getting too scorched. The team made it and we are now resting before dinner. Hopefully we can use that fuel to move to 11K Camp. Keep those fingers crossed for good weather! RMI Guide Jake Beren

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Craig and Eric Hi from a much lower elevation. Reading the blog daily so we know you and the team must be happy to be on the mountain and making progress Hope you don’t need to test the coldest protection level of your clothing and sleeping bag. Temperatures look impressive for California boys but know you will source your MN and Scandanavian roots.
All is well here. Climb on! Love Libby and Julia

Posted by: Libby and Julia Heimark on 6/11/2015 at 5:25 am

Dear Craig and Eric,

We wish both of you and the team a safe and fabulous journey. Hope the conditions are ideal.

Take care,

Linda, Ed, and Jared

Posted by: Linda on 6/10/2015 at 7:19 am

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Mt. McKinley: Knoff & Team Headed Home

June 7, 2015

Posted by: Adam Knoff, Nick Hunt

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

June 7, 2015, 4:47 pm PT It is difficult to find a place to begin the final dispatch of our group's grand adventure. No mountain climbing objective quite compares to the raw and unprecedented challenge of Denali. Having been here nine times before, the burrito of emotions ranging from excitement and joy to anxiety and fear all get rolled into one and when the plane takes off and you go past the point of no return, managing all these feelings becomes more than half the battle. I have seen this mountain crack the hardest of nuts. Climbers who have summitted 8000 meter peaks routinely come here and say it is the hardest mountain they have ever attempted. In the broad scope of mountaineering landscapes, "The High One" stands alone, both on the tundra and in our lives. With this said, no one is prouder of the group than I am. Two days ago we began our march from 14,000 feet down into the unknown. With wind gusts strong enough to make walking feel like a mosh pit and snow conditions making hide-and-go-seek with crevasses a heart-pounding game, we honestly didn't know what the next hour, let alone day, would bring. After a brief visit at 11,000 feet we kept going into the ginormous ping pong ball navigating only with GPS. At 9,000 feet we had to stop. This sort of challenge became par for the course. Yesterday morning, despite the feet of new snow, everyone's energy, motivation and attitude never wavered. Four hours after leaving camp we were at the air strip and 45 minutes after arriving we were on a plane back to civilization. We fly into Denali as someone and we fly off of Denali as someone else. I have been changed by the mountain many times. Very rarely has a group such as this had a profound influence on that change. It was an honor to lead you all. Thanks again to Nick and Andy for being such hard working and trustworthy partners on the guiding front. You both rock! Thanks also to those who followed along. The stories of what happens the night you return to food and drink will have to be shared in person. Until the next adventure. Keep climbing. RMI Guide Adam Knoff

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Thanks to Adam and the other guides for a safe ascent and return. You did an amazing job with the group and we are proud of the whole team. The weather sounded tough but you all were more tough! Safe travels to your home ports and wishing you all well again!!

Posted by: Connie Whitley on 6/8/2015 at 8:17 am

So very proud of each member of the team and the guides for support and tenacity that must.have permeated your very beings to make this such a successful journey up and down the mighty Mt McKinley. Will, so looking forward to hearing all of the details, congratulations. Well done. XOXOXO

Posted by: Carolyn on 6/8/2015 at 6:19 am

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Entries from Mt. McKinley

Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Bides Their Time

Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Carry to 16,400’

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Sitting Pretty at 14,200’

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Move to 11,200’ Camp

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Getting Strong at 14,000’ Camp

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Ascend Fixed Lines

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Builds a Snow Fortress

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team’s First Night at 14K Camp

Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Hit The Glacier Running

Mt. McKinley: Knoff & Team Headed Home

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