Entries from Mt. McKinley

Mt. McKinley: Jones and Team Acclimating in the Arctic

June 10, 2014

Posted by: Tyler Jones

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

Tuesday, June 10, 2014 - 4:10 PT The first real weather day for us this trip. The overnight temps dropped to -7F not including the wind chill. Our early morning plans to move a few items for caching up to our high camp were foiled by the high winds -- 35mph winds at 17,200' and negative temps! Not to mention the squalls of crystalline snow flakes flying in all directions. The sun peered out from the flanks of the west rib shedding enough solar rays to warm the tents. With the brim of a ball cap we scraped the tent walls free of the frost of our night's breathing. Lighting the stoves in our kitchen tent soon brought the smells of coffee, bacon, and cream cheese with bagels. This motivated our spirits to make our camp a fortress. We spent two hours building large block walls and remodeling the bathroom -- which, I might add, could be the best one currently on the mountain featuring a snow free enclosed taj ma-stall! Not to mention the fact that RMI Guide Bryan Hendrick took on a project to expand and improve an igloo just outside camp...soon we'll have a monstrous underground lair for additional resting and wind protection. Sick! We are now taking a rest, drying out and warming up after a great session. The wall building serves as great acclimatization through light exercise, team building, and making camp even better for this time we're spending in this harsh Arctic environment. We will keep our hopes high for lighter winds, less snow, and a bit of warmth. RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Garrett Stevens, Bryan Hendrick, and the crew!

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Daveed, You guys are all crazy (amy) however Bud wants to be there, he thinks it is hot here. Hope you are having fun. I can’t send you too much warm weather or I will freeze (amy). See you soon.

Posted by: BUD/AMY on 6/12/2014 at 6:11 pm

Dave, We’re waiting for summer to start, but our chilly 62 degrees must sound balmy to you. Think summer thoughts. Stay safe…

Patty

Posted by: Patty on 6/12/2014 at 5:37 am

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Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Remain at 7,800’

June 10, 2014

Posted by: Jake Beren, Leon Davis

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,800'

June 9, 2014 - 9:52 pm PT The team remained at 7,800' on Mt. McKinley and chalked it up to a weather day. Apparently they spent the day composing poetry. A copy of their work is below: We're below Ski Hill Snowing, blowing, eating here Hope to move up soon! Cheers from 7800, Katie, Leon, Jake, and Crew RMI Guides Jake Beren, Leon Davis & Katie Bono

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How about posting a group picture with the guides in front?
I want to see all you mountain climbers.

Posted by: scott's mom on 6/11/2014 at 1:11 pm

Curious about what you all do all day waiting for the snow to blow over ? Wishing you sunshine all the way to the top! Missing you Scotter Potter!
Love, mom

Posted by: scott's mom on 6/11/2014 at 1:08 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Rest at 14,200’ Camp

June 10, 2014

Posted by: Tyler Jones

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

Today was a pretty chill day for team No Troubles here at 14,200'. We took the concept of a rest day very seriously, and slept in until the sun hit the tents late this morning. Breakfast was a delicious combination of retort eggs/bacon/sausage/gravy meals and freshly fried hash browns with cheese. The hot coffee was the perfect complement to our leisurely meal, and we waddled out of the posh sufficiently stuffed for the morning. After a couple of hours of relaxation, we took some time to refresh our skills with the ascenders for the fixed lines, as well as practice for the running belays we'll encounter up on the West Buttress. The afternoon's weather turned a little more arctic, and we crawled into our tents after dinner to escape the frigid temps (-5F) and the blowing snow. For now, we're hoping for a break tomorrow morning so we can get our cache up onto the buttress. But as we all know, the weather has the ultimate say up here, so we'll make a game time decision in the morning. Thinking warm thoughts from 14 camp, ta ta for now! RMI Guides Garrett, Tyler, Bryan, and the team

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Hey Team No Troubles! Good work, good food, good camaraderie… Leaving in the morning for Anchorage, will wave from the airplane; thinking of you Will…
Cathy & Elizabeth

Posted by: Cathy Lambert on 6/10/2014 at 4:44 pm

Jen - Brrrr! It was in the low 90s in Houston today. I would LOVE to send some of that heat your way. I love to hear your team name is No Troubles. That’s the way to go. Hope you are staying as warm as possible. Good luck on your cache carry tomorrow. I’m getting so excited for you guys!!

Posted by: Nicole on 6/10/2014 at 4:01 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Frank & Team Make Camp at 14,000’

June 9, 2014

Posted by: Eric Frank, Geoff Schellens

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

June 8, 2014 - 10:49 pm PT The team broke camp for the first time in three days this morning. We loaded our remaining gear into our packs and made the climb up to 14,000'. Even though the sun bore down on us for the last few stretches, we climbed strong and were in camp by mid-afternoon. As a group we are working on efficiency in building camps. So far we have had plenty of time and warms temperatures to put up tents and get organized. We are very strong and efficient when climbing, but on the upper mountain we can't wast any additional energy setting camps. I'm confident we'll get there. Light snow is falling and we are all tired from a long day. Good night. Thanks for following our progress, RMI Guides Eric Frank, Geoff Schellens the UWR team Andy sends love and hugs to his lovely wife Vivian and kids Jessika, Milli, Jayden, Jaylyn and Devon

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Well,here I am again… 2 blogs in one day.. But I have actually checked for updates about 10 times today! Mom Frank, I just read your message to me, and needed to immediately respond. Thank you, thank you, thank you!!! You can’t imagine how much your words of encouragement mean to me! John has great respect for the guides and their expertise. He has reassured me numerous times that they are very skilled and safety minded. However, no one but another Mom could ever understand or imagine just how much we worry about our children… Be they big or small! You made me feel so much better!!!! I will try to relax! THANK YOU!

Posted by: Patty Stenderup on 6/9/2014 at 9:52 pm

Praying for safety as you head for the high country. It sounds like you have an awesome team! I don’t normally comment on the blog but it has been fun watching the Stenderup family follow this trip. I just couldn’t resist sending Mom Stenderup some encouragement. Mom Stenderup - I remember the first time my,as you put it, “baby boy” headed up this 20,000+ mountain. I checked the blog what seemed like a million times a day for 26 days. Now I am watching this climb with a little different perspective. You see my “baby boy” has grown into the young man who is the senior guide leading this expedition. From one mountain climber’s mom to another… it’s OK to relax a bit, breathe and enjoy the journey. Your boys are in good hands. Eric and Geoff are both incredibly skilled, smart, mountain savvy, safety conscious, Senior RMI Guides. They are good at what they do. So be encouraged. Like you, I will continue to pray for the team’s safety. GO TEAM! Summit this mountain with style. Mom Frank

Posted by: Kathy Frank on 6/9/2014 at 8:01 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Take a Rest at 7,800’

June 9, 2014

Posted by: Leon Davis, Jake Beren

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,800'

June 8, 2014 - 9:19 pm PT Today was a great day for resting and that is what we did. We awoke to some clouds and snow at our camp at 7,800' and decided to hunker down. Reviewing some knots and hitches filled the spaces between naps and we are raring to go tomorrow if the weather allows. It is snowing at present and with more snow in the forecast, we'll just have to wait and see. RMI Guide Jake Berenn

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George: we are tracking your progress on our “Where’s George” wall; stay safe

Posted by: Vicki Morrison on 6/10/2014 at 4:52 am

Best of luck Scott & team! We’re following you and thinking of you!!

Posted by: Chris & Judy Beaudette on 6/9/2014 at 7:16 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Move to 14,000’ Camp

June 9, 2014

Posted by: Tyler Jones

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

June 8, 2014 - 5:50 pm This morning we woke to warmer and windless air. The team packed our camp, had quick coffee with oatmeal and a granola bar. We then packed tents away, and organized snowshoes along with most of the sleds, some trash and few extra things we could spare to leave behind in a cache for us to pick up on our decent. The travel was as calm and nice as we could ask for with light clouds passing over head. If we could complain about our weather we would just say we were too hot at times. This was a welcome change to the chilly morning we climbed in for our carry yesterday. Our crew made great time, even adding a rest stop on a completely windless Windy Corner. Once we arrived at camp our days work was far from over as the snow began to fall. We dug tent platforms, built another priceless kitchen posh house and prepped camp for a storm that is expected over the next few days. We are now getting some rest and fluffing our feathers. Soon will have a deluxe meal of quesadillas with chicken, fresh veggies, beans and rice to fill our bellies and help us sleep warm in our new camp in the Genet Basin at 14,200 ft. Tomorrow we have earned a full rest day of eating, drinking and acclimating. Will be in touch soon! Cheers, RMI Guides Tyler, Garrett, Bryan and the "No Troubles" crew!

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Congratulations Team !!

You’re moving up the mountain like a well oiled machine. I think 14k may be my favorite camp up there.

Tyler, Garrett - Don’t know where you’ll be in September but I’m signed up on the Sept. 19th, 4 day climb at Rainier.

-Larry Seaton

Posted by: Larry Seaton on 6/9/2014 at 10:19 pm

Wow. Great post tonight and glad the weather is cooperating. Stay strong And full of courage Jen. Love you and so proud of you.

Posted by: Marie on 6/9/2014 at 8:13 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Beren and Team Make Carry to 9,600’ Camp

June 8, 2014

Posted by: Jake Beren, Leon Davis

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,800'

Saturday, June 7th 10:36 PM PT Greetings from our home at 7,800' at the base of Ski Hill. Today we carried big loads up to 9,600' camp and made a cache. This allowed us to get in some mileage and take a day off the sleds. It also gives us a lighter move day tomorrow and every little bit helps! Just before dinner it started to snow and we retreated to tents to rest up for the upcoming day. Cross your fingers for clearing skies and we'll make the most of them. RMI Guide Jake Beren

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George, Don’t forget to look up and enjoy the view! Cyndi

Posted by: Cyndi on 6/9/2014 at 5:40 am

Jake…Hope you and the team are able to tag the summit…Godspeed…Thanks for your help on Rainier two Septembers ago…Waltero

Posted by: waltero glovedr on 6/9/2014 at 5:27 am

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Mt. McKinley: Okita & Team Grounded

June 7, 2014

Posted by: Brent Okita, Leah Fisher, Nick Hunt

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

June 7, 2014 - 7:23 pm PT The past day and a half have been a whirlwind. Awakening early at 14,200' the skies had cleared spectacularly, a very nice change from the snowy weather we had getting to camp. With new snow on the ground climbing back down to 11,200' camp was easy. We picked up our cache and visited with friends and some fellow guides before heading down glacier to Basecamp. Because the glacier was in great shape we could travel during the day without needing to get on to a nighttime schedule to walk when the snow is cold and crevasse bridges stronger and safer. Six hours later we were at the airstrip on the southeast fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. An hour later the great pilots at K2 had landed and were whisking us back to civilization. It was a rush to get in a shower before the restaurants closed. But we made it and gorged on some wonderful food and cold beverages. A visit to the infamous Fairview Inn to celebrate our trip led some to hydrate to excess into the wee hours of the morning, but incredibly all made it to breakfast at 8:00. And now we've split up and are going our own ways. Part of the team are going fishing and enjoying this great state some more, while the rest of us are flying home. Leah, Nick and I are among those going home, opting out of fishing this time so we can see our loved ones, and take a well deserved rest. Thanks for following along on our great adventure. See you next year! RMI Guides Brent Okita, Leah Fisher and Nick Hunt

Mt. McKinley: Frank & Team Cache Gear at 14K Camp

June 7, 2014

Posted by: Eric Frank, Geoff Schellens

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

June 7, 2014 - 7:33 pm PT The team got busy today by hauling a load of food and personal gear up to the next camp at 14,000'. Everyone performed well and we were able to cover the distance in just over four hours- a great pace. All along the trail, we passed groups who were either hauling gear up to cache or moving camp from 11,000' to 14,000'. It was fun to say "hi" and encourage groups we have met along the way. The small tent city that has surrounded us for the last few days will reassemble up higher as groups ready for a summit bid. Sitting at 14,000' this afternoon, the team got our first good look at the route. We talked through the flow of the climb and got excited. Hopefully, a few more short days will bring us the time to see if all of our preparations are sufficient to get to the top. Thanks for following our journey. RMI Guides Eric Frank, Geoff Schellens and the UWR team

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41John, love from Farmor and also Farfar: You can do it, You can do it.

Posted by: Farmor on 6/9/2014 at 9:46 am

Miss you!!! Hope that you are making good progress!

Posted by: Patty Stenderup on 6/9/2014 at 7:55 am

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Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team - The Stage is Set…

June 7, 2014

Posted by: Tyler Jones

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

June 7, 2014 - 6:49 pm PT ...and the players are ready! Hello from our cloudy camp at 11,000. The team had a productive morning rising to a cold clear day! We started the day with a classic mountain breakfast of instant grits with a side of pop tarts. We know it's not likely many would approve but for us it hit the spot and was the fuel we needed on a breezy, cold morning lugging our cache loads all the way to our next camp at 14,200 ft. This was our first day of more technical climbing - we've been referring to the mountain behind us as the long heavy approach. The rope teams climbed with crampons and ice axes up Motorcycle Hill around to the famous Squirrel Hill. Lore has it that one early expedition had a furry stowaway on board that jumped from a member's pack at a break on this stretch of mountain, resulting in the long-standing name "Squirrel Hill." After this section we made great time up to and around Windy Corner, which gave us a taste of some icy breezes as we crested over into the sun. The remaining stretch of glacier went quickly, and we were dropping our kit into yet another snow hole before noon. The group climbed flawlessly as we were back to our tents at 11,200' before we knew it. Now we're resting and preparing for tomorrow's move up to our fourth camp,the highest so far. Don't touch that dial, we'll be back with an update tomorrow! RMI Guides Garrett, Tyler, Bryan, and the team

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Great job Jake! You are well prepared for what lies ahead! Wish we knew what color your coat is, it’s hard to pick you out in the photos! Love Mom

Posted by: Diane on 6/8/2014 at 4:39 pm

Congratulations Paul !!

You finally get to see the view from the 14,000 ft. camp. Pretty amazing, isn’t it. Sounds like the weather has been preety decent for you guys. I hope it stays that way so you don’t get stuck hunkering down at 14k or 17k.

-Larry Seaton

Posted by: Larry Seaton on 6/8/2014 at 1:13 pm

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Entries from Mt. McKinley

Mt. McKinley: Jones and Team Acclimating in the Arctic

Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Remain at 7,800’

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Rest at 14,200’ Camp

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Frank & Team Make Camp at 14,000’

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Take a Rest at 7,800’

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Move to 14,000’ Camp

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Beren and Team Make Carry to 9,600’ Camp

Mt. McKinley: Okita & Team Grounded

Mt. McKinley: Frank & Team Cache Gear at 14K Camp

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team - The Stage is Set…

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