Entries from Mt. McKinley

Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team’s First Night at 14K Camp

June 7, 2015

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Chase Nelson

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

June 7, 2015, 9:45 pm PT After surviving our first chilly night at 14K Camp, everyone walked into the posh this morning to the sweet smell of blueberry pancakes. Cooking at 14,000ft is quite difficult on any day but Tyler made pancakes that would have made Grandpa Jerry proud. Post breakfast we took advantage of the nice weather and prepared our camp for a nuclear winter. Hopefully the weather will stay nice but if not we are prepared for the worst. After our wall building session we did some more training for the upper mountain. The guides set up a fixed-line obstacle course that everyone marched around in like a group of trained gorillas. Tomorrow we hope to carry to the top of the fixed lines, but as always, we will see what Mother Nature brings. RMI Guide Tyler Jones

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Congrats to all for your new found height! I am in awe of all. Went golfing in Victor Utah today. Sunny and 76 is good anywhere I suppose

Posted by: Frank Suring on 6/8/2015 at 4:26 pm

Everyone I know that knows you has their fingers crossed for good weather to hold.

Posted by: Mike Taylor on 6/8/2015 at 8:43 am

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Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Hit The Glacier Running

June 7, 2015

Posted by: Jake Beren, Andrew Kiefer, Christina Dale

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,800'

Sunday, June 7, 2015 7:42 pm PT Yesterday we stormed the Kahiltna Glacier, officially ending our occupation of Talkeetna. We were able to catch an early afternoon flight, skirting the clouds and safely getting ourselves and all our groceries into the mountains! We expected a huge backlog of climbers at basecamp, and there were more than a few parties waiting to get off the mountain. However a buried tent city resembling a parking lot of white Fiats, was nowhere to be found. We landed to spectacular views and decided to hit the ground running. Making it to 7,800 Camp in the evening was a great start to the climb. Today we got a reasonable start to the day, leaving camp at mid morning and carrying to 9,700 feet. It was a pleasant day for walking, with enough cloud cover to keep us from getting too scorched. The team made it and we are now resting before dinner. Hopefully we can use that fuel to move to 11K Camp. Keep those fingers crossed for good weather! RMI Guide Jake Beren

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Craig and Eric Hi from a much lower elevation. Reading the blog daily so we know you and the team must be happy to be on the mountain and making progress Hope you don’t need to test the coldest protection level of your clothing and sleeping bag. Temperatures look impressive for California boys but know you will source your MN and Scandanavian roots.
All is well here. Climb on! Love Libby and Julia

Posted by: Libby and Julia Heimark on 6/11/2015 at 5:25 am

Dear Craig and Eric,

We wish both of you and the team a safe and fabulous journey. Hope the conditions are ideal.

Take care,

Linda, Ed, and Jared

Posted by: Linda on 6/10/2015 at 7:19 am

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Mt. McKinley: Knoff & Team Headed Home

June 7, 2015

Posted by: Adam Knoff, Nick Hunt

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

June 7, 2015, 4:47 pm PT It is difficult to find a place to begin the final dispatch of our group's grand adventure. No mountain climbing objective quite compares to the raw and unprecedented challenge of Denali. Having been here nine times before, the burrito of emotions ranging from excitement and joy to anxiety and fear all get rolled into one and when the plane takes off and you go past the point of no return, managing all these feelings becomes more than half the battle. I have seen this mountain crack the hardest of nuts. Climbers who have summitted 8000 meter peaks routinely come here and say it is the hardest mountain they have ever attempted. In the broad scope of mountaineering landscapes, "The High One" stands alone, both on the tundra and in our lives. With this said, no one is prouder of the group than I am. Two days ago we began our march from 14,000 feet down into the unknown. With wind gusts strong enough to make walking feel like a mosh pit and snow conditions making hide-and-go-seek with crevasses a heart-pounding game, we honestly didn't know what the next hour, let alone day, would bring. After a brief visit at 11,000 feet we kept going into the ginormous ping pong ball navigating only with GPS. At 9,000 feet we had to stop. This sort of challenge became par for the course. Yesterday morning, despite the feet of new snow, everyone's energy, motivation and attitude never wavered. Four hours after leaving camp we were at the air strip and 45 minutes after arriving we were on a plane back to civilization. We fly into Denali as someone and we fly off of Denali as someone else. I have been changed by the mountain many times. Very rarely has a group such as this had a profound influence on that change. It was an honor to lead you all. Thanks again to Nick and Andy for being such hard working and trustworthy partners on the guiding front. You both rock! Thanks also to those who followed along. The stories of what happens the night you return to food and drink will have to be shared in person. Until the next adventure. Keep climbing. RMI Guide Adam Knoff

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Thanks to Adam and the other guides for a safe ascent and return. You did an amazing job with the group and we are proud of the whole team. The weather sounded tough but you all were more tough! Safe travels to your home ports and wishing you all well again!!

Posted by: Connie Whitley on 6/8/2015 at 8:17 am

So very proud of each member of the team and the guides for support and tenacity that must.have permeated your very beings to make this such a successful journey up and down the mighty Mt McKinley. Will, so looking forward to hearing all of the details, congratulations. Well done. XOXOXO

Posted by: Carolyn on 6/8/2015 at 6:19 am

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Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Moves to 14,200’ Camp

June 7, 2015

Posted by: Geoff Schellens, Eric Frank

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

Saturday, June 6th 10:55 p.m. PT After three days of significant snowfall, we awoke this morning to mostly clear skies and moderate winds. Three days of laying in a tent will make anyone antsy, and, understandably, the team was raring to head up hill. We used the energy and enthusiasm to make a move to Mount McKinley's 14K camp. After an hour of wallowing through deep snow, we escaped onto firmer terrain and found ourselves here in camp six hours later. Everyone is tired from the exertion, but elated to be this high on the mountain. Thanks for following along. RMI Guide Geoff Schellens

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Hi Kim, John and Marko want to see pics of the outhouse if you could please post. John wants to know if you’re packing out toilet paper. Please advise.

Posted by: Maria, John, Marko on 6/8/2015 at 9:49 am

Great job Kim and team getting to 14K camp!! I hope the weather holds out for you guys for the rest of the trip. Wishing you lot of luck and clear days ahead!! Cheers, Cindee

Posted by: Cindee on 6/8/2015 at 9:17 am

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Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team on the Road to 14K Camp

June 7, 2015

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Lindsay Mann, Chase Nelson

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

Saturday, June 6th 10:18 p.m. PT On the Road again! Yes, today we got to move up into the Genet Basin! We are currently snuggled up in our sleeping bags at McKinley's 14K Camp. Everyone did an excellent job today and climbed quite strong. We had a leisurely departure from 11K waiting for the perfect time of day. There was a lot of traffic on the route due to lots of teams sitting out this storm at 11K. However, with our strong group Tyler was able to giraffe neck around to see what was ahead and plan some strategic breaks in order to avoid the congestion. We arrived at camp around 4:15pm and everyone was quite efficient setting up camp. After a hard days work, everyone enjoyed many spatulas of Annie's Mac and cheese with crispy bacon. We are happy to have made the move and will check in again tomorrow! RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Lindsay Mann and Chase Nelson

On The Map

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Hi Ken, hope your feeling great. The top looks close, be sure to smell the flowers along the way. Ha! Happy hiking!

Posted by: Anna Fisher on 6/7/2015 at 9:51 pm

D.G. looks like you are moving on up. Its a beautiful Sunday in the Bluegrass. Said a prayer for safe climbing for you and all the teams this morning at church. Love you…Mom

Posted by: Caroline on 6/7/2015 at 9:01 am

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Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Tour Talkeetna

June 6, 2015

Posted by: Jake Beren, Christina Dale, Andrew Kiefer

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

June 6, 2015 11:08am PST No trip to Denali is truly complete without a taste of the Talkeetna Hang. With the unsettled weather this week continuing, it hasn't been possible to fly in to the Range. While that can be tough for some to hang out in town, it doesn't take many days stuck in a storm on the mountain before we will be wistfully remembering our down days in town. The team is doing their best to stay in the game. Despite being ready with planes loaded and boots on, we spent the day in town, not flying. With nothing else to do for the trip, we set out to really get into the Talkeetna Hang. An afternoon pizza party prompted a trip to the river to skip some rocks and look towards the mountains. We couldn't see anything but dark clouds toward the Range so we pushed on. Making a stop at the historic Fairview Inn the team got into some fierce ping pong action. Doubles, singles, it didn't matter. Nice to get the heart beating again. After the games a farmer's market set up shop nearby, a concert in the park struck up and we eventually returned to the hanger for a game of Cards against Humanity. A solid day of hanging. With any luck we will fly today, but if not I think we can find a museum or two to explore. RMI Guides Jake Beren, Christina Von Mertens, Andrew Kiefer & Team

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Best wishes to you all. Enjoy the down time and visualize your success. Be smooth, Mer.

Posted by: Rich on 6/9/2015 at 12:19 pm

Hope you all are enjoying the scenery. Also am hoping the weather is starting to cooperate with your journey.

Pearl

Posted by: Pearl on 6/8/2015 at 1:46 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Overnight Snow Fall for Upper West Rib Team

June 5, 2015

Posted by: Geoff Schellens, Eric Frank

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

June 5, 2015 - 6:53 pm PT We woke this morning to silence, my first thought was that the weather had become good. Soon I rubbed my eyes and realized the we were completely snowed in. After digging out of the tent we spent another hour excavating camp before we could even start making breakfast. Obviously not a move day. Once camp was dug out and coffee was coursing through us we spent the day sharing stories, reading, and napping in our tents. The wind and snow let up for most of the afternoon and we are all hopeful that tomorrow will bring good weather for us. The team is antsy to move higher on the mountain but there is nothing we can do about the weather. Spirits remain high and everyone is healthy and happy. Keep your fingers crossed for good weather tomorrow. Thanks for following along with us. RMI Guide Geoff Schellens

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team in a Holding Pattern

June 5, 2015

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Lindsay Mann, Chase Nelson

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

June 5, 2015 3:00pm PST Snowpocolypse... Yep, it's still snowing here at 11k camp and the holding pattern...continues. It's deep and fluffy around here! We had to get our periscopes out this morning to escape the tent. The day has been spent waddling like platypuses from our tents to the posh to the bathroom. The team has also spent our time maintaining our camp, shoveling freshly drifted snow, building and rebuilding walls around our tents. Despite the snowpocolypse, spirits have been kept high with card games, jokes, rapping and stories. RMI Guide Tyler Jones & Team

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Yo Daddy! I am one of the lucky few who has seen a Triple Crown winner run the Derby! In person! American Pharaoh won the Belmont today and it was exciting! Sounds like you’ve got loads of snow. Boychoir spring concert was today and we have polo tomorrow and then a party for Miss Vicki.

Posted by: Oz on 6/6/2015 at 7:07 pm

hello snow jockeys, American Pharoah wins the triple crown

Posted by: Richard Larscheid on 6/6/2015 at 4:17 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Rests Again

June 4, 2015

Posted by: Geoff Schellens, Eric Frank

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

Thursday, June 4, 2015 6:45pm PST The snow is still falling and the winds continue to blow here at 11k camp. This morning, the Upper West Rib team woke to another six inches of accumulation and drifts ranging from mid-calf to mid-thigh. We quickly shoveled our camp back into shape, then lingered over breakfast bagels for several hours while we discussed potential future schedules.
Overall the team is doing an excellent job of staying busy and motivated while utilizing these imposed rest days. Between bouts of shoveling, we are able to sneak in hours of reading, naps and movie watching. Once the weather improves we will be strong and ready to cruise uphill. RMI Guide Geoff Schellens

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Hi Kim - Re: the “hours of reading, naps and movie watching?!” Seems I’ve been “training” for this trip my whole life without even knowing it. I’m signing up for the next one!

-michael

Posted by: Michael on 6/5/2015 at 4:27 pm

We are in Atlanta. Hope you guys get to start moving soon! Sophia’s haircut is great. Love momma

Posted by: Jane on 6/5/2015 at 10:44 am

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Mt. McKinley: Knoff and Team Continue to Wait out Storm

June 4, 2015

Posted by: Adam Knoff, Nick Hunt

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

June 4, 2015 3:05pm PST One of the most famous books of Mt. McKinley lore is of the first winter ascent and it's title is Minus 148. Yes this refers to the calculated wind chill factor the climbers experienced while stuck in a storm at 18,000' feet in the middle of February. While we sit here waiting out this storm which we have been racing for six days, the cold accompanying the snow is bone chilling. Last night after the sun went behind the ridge, we all guessed the evening temp here in camp at 14,000' feet was a balmy minus 15 degrees. Add in the 15 mph breeze and the wind chill here was a cool minus 35! Up at high camp where we just came from, where teams still sit waiting for a summit chance, the air temp was a frigid minus 25 with 40 mph winds. This means the wind chill was roughly minus 50. At these temps skin freezes in seconds and the body can hardly consume enough calories to stay warm without shelter. The morale of the team is really high knowing the high altitude work is done. As I write this on June 4th, the description of June 3rd is identical. Drink coffee, eat lots of food, take a nap, eat more food, have dinner and go to bed. The need to hang outside in the freezing temps is not what anyone needs. As the storm moves through, we are hoping to get this show on the road and move to base camp where planes can pick us up as soon as the weather breaks. Cross your fingers for an opening by Sunday. We will touch base tomorrow. RMI Guide Adam Knoff & Team

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Comgratulations on your amazing climb! Thinking of the team every day. Stay strong and safe on your descent.

Posted by: Elaine on 6/6/2015 at 8:51 am

Hang in there Knoff and Team! Waiting at base camp to fly home is trying. Stay warm, have fun, throw lots of snowballs at the other teams (Especially Chad’s AAI team, Greg!) and be ready to go. Hoping you hear the planes any time now! Home soon!

Posted by: Kerry on 6/5/2015 at 11:01 pm

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Entries from Mt. McKinley

Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team’s First Night at 14K Camp

Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Hit The Glacier Running

Mt. McKinley: Knoff & Team Headed Home

Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Moves to 14,200’ Camp

Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team on the Road to 14K Camp

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Tour Talkeetna

Mt. McKinley: Overnight Snow Fall for Upper West Rib Team

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team in a Holding Pattern

Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Rests Again

Mt. McKinley: Knoff and Team Continue to Wait out Storm

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