Mt. McKinley's "Windy Corner" lived up to it's name today. We carried a load of food and gear into a head wind to a cache site at about 13,500 ft. Luckily once we made the turn around the corner the winds died and we enjoyed the bright, warm sunshine while we buried our cache and took a break before heading back down to camp.
We will rest tomorrow in preparation for our move to our next camp.
Mike would like to wish a "Happy Birthday to Papa George".
RMI Guide Walter Hailes
What a perfect day for a summit! And so, what better way to spend the day high on Denali than to go for a little walk. First to Denali Pass still shrouded in the cold morning's shade. Then, bang a hard right followed by a sweeping left towards Archdeacon's Tower. Over hill and dale to the Football Field, then up Pig Hill for a final but kicker and onto the summit ridge.
We finally reached the summit at about 5:30, wearing our big down parkas to protect us from a rather chilly breeze. What a day!
Unfortunately we were missing a couple of key members of our team, a consequence of not taking a rest day after our big push up from 14,200' camp. But we all discussed the gamble of taking advantage of a perfect day on your first morning and agreed on the strategy.
So, Clay and Frank, having reached their personal high point of 19,000' today, will have another chance at the summit tomorrow if the weather holds up along with their motivation. These two have probably earned the right to summit as much as anyone due to their hard work for the team, selflessness, and good nature. Maile, Leon and I, along with the rest of the team, are completely committed to helping these two amazing individuals reach their goals.
We're all looking forward to a good night's sleep, so until next time...
RMI Guides Brent, Leon and Maile
RMI Guide Brent Okita checks in after reaching the summit of Mt. McKinley with his team.
Frank - awesome. What a fantastic accomplishment; to think that I personally know someone who scaled Mt Mckinley. Can’t wait to hear the story and see pics.
Lou (Adam’s dad)
Posted by: Lou Lenz on 6/4/2011 at 5:20 am
Been looking for your name Uncle Frank!! Good Luck, hope all is well!! We’re thinking of you and sending you the best weather ever!
An always tough move to 17,200' was made a bit more pleasant today with some perfect weather and climbing conditions.
We're all in bed now after setting up camp and having dinner. We're awaiting the morning to see if this nice weather holds out. If things are perfect, we'll go for the summit! I've learned that you just can't pass up a perfect day on this mountain. I've seen too many other folks squander opportunities that never arise again.
However, a rest day would be most welcome if conditions are at all marginal. It might just mean that we have to wait out a weather system coming our way in the next couple of days.
Goodnight,
RMI Guides Brent, Leon and Maile
Hello, this is Adam Knoff and the Upper West Rib Climbing Team. We are established comfortably here at 11,000’ on Mt. McKinley. We moved up today from our camp at 10,200’ in very nice weather.
The weather deteriorated a little bit this afternoon bringing some clouds and light snow. We were able to climb above camp for a few hours and found a nice place to do some ice climbing and some training. That got everybody excited and morale is good.
Everyone is feeling strong and we expect to make a carry up to 14,000’ tomorrow. Then we will see what the weather is like as the forecast calls for a low pressure system on Tuesday and Wednesday. This puts a little uncertainty into our planning so we'll play it by ear.
As our team gets to know each other we have discovered that the never snoring Mr. James Fitch does in fact snore. And that is one of the fun new discoveries of the trip so far.
We'll keep you posted as our plans for the upcoming days develop.
RMI Guide Adam Knoff
James, glad to know you’ve finally gotten up there. It’s worth the wait. Courtney, nice job getting the heavy load hauling done. All spectacular country ahead. Be safe and have fun!
Posted by: Steve Bott on 5/31/2011 at 10:05 pm
Congrats on your progress so far - please continue to keep us posted, thank you. So glad to hear the whole team is doing well. If Peter is James’ tentmate, I’m glad he brought earplugs! If possible, please tell Peter all is well back home and that his friends and family are cheering him on.
Good evening friends and family,
We are all comfortably moved into our new camp at about 11,000 feet. It took us 2.5 hours to move here from 9,500 feet and about 2 hours to level tent platforms, dig our cook area, and retrieve the cache we established yesterday. Everyone worked hard to refine this camp because we are planning on being here for the next three nights. We will carry gear higher on the mountain, rest, and continue to acclimate.
We will check in again soon.
RMI Guide Walter Hailes
Sleeping in has never felt better! Today there were no calls for hots while the temps outside hovered near the 0 degree mark. We got up when the sun warmed up the inside of the tent and the frost on the tent walls and ceilings started dripping on our foreheads.
Today was a day to linger over our brunch of smoked salmon, bagels and cream cheese. Have a third cup of something, and just relax. Yes, at one point we did feel obliged to fortify camp as all smart climbers would, but many hands made for short work of this chore.
We also hosted our successful RMI team led by Billy and Solveig to some fine bacon and cheese bagels. These guys were on their way down the mountain to catch a plane off the glacier.
So far the weather looks good for us to move camp up to 17,200'. We're all excited for the move, seeing how it will put us in great position to finally make our summit bid. We'll try to catch you tomorrow for an update, but given the tremendous amount of work we have in store, it may be delayed.
Good night,
RMI Guides Brent, Leon and Maile
I hope this is the right team! I wanted to give a shout out to Frank Saunders! I am watching progress here in Memphis at Armstrong! What an incredible experience! So proud of you! Have fun and can’t wait to hear all about the details when you get back!
Posted by: Monica on 5/31/2011 at 6:46 am
sounds you you all had a great deserved day of rest. Maile I know how much you like to have your nap so I hope you got one in. Hope the weather holds for you guys Miss ya girl xoxo Mom
Another day in the bank. We are still enjoying sunny days and warm, but pleasant, temperatures at our 9,500' camp on Mt. McKinley. We carried a load of gear and food up to 11,200 feet which will help our acclimation process and get us set up for climbing higher on the mountain. However the crew is most excited that they are done with the heavy loads...for now.
We are back at 9,500' resting and acclimatizing. We will check in again soon.
RMI Guide Walter Hailes
This is Adam checking in from Mt McKinley.
Yesterday our team made an exploratory reconnaissance up the NE Fork of the Kahiltna. This is the approach glacier that leads to the bottom of our climbing route, the West Rib.
It was an instructive day. Without going into detail, suffice it to say for reasons based on mountaineering experience we have decided to forego climbing the lower portion of the West Rib. Rather, our revised plan will be to follow the West Buttress route to 14,000’ and from there intersect the ridgeline and climb the upper West Rib to the summit.
We are aiming to make camp today at 9,500’. The weather is gorgeous, the team is strong, and everyone is excited about our new strategy.
RMI Guide Adam Knoff
Glad to hear that you guys are making smart, safe decisions. While I know you had hoped to complete the full West Rib, it’s always better to be safe and prudent, and I’m sure the Upper Rib line will still be amazing. Good luck to my Peter and the rest of the team, and stay safe!
Posted by: Esther Kim on 5/30/2011 at 10:22 am
Man that sounds great! Wish I was there! Have a great climb guys!
We awoke to a clear, cold morning, excited to get our climb up the fixed ropes and onto the West Butress started. With several other guided groups set to climb this morning, we coordinated our departures and ended up being the first big party up the hill, alllowing us to move unhindered by other traffic. This ended up working out great for us because our teamed proved to be up to the task of climbing the steep terrain of the route.
Under perfect conditions, we negotiated the fixed lines that seem so dauntingly steep from camp, and made our way up the Butress to a cache spot at 16,600'. This is a spot higher than most folks cache, yet everyone made it there in good form. At this point the climbers who were still feeling great went on to carry all the way up to 17,200' camp, a feat that I had yet to be able to do with a group in 20 years! This is certainly a testament to how well our team is doing.
So, after this great success (and incredibly hard work) we are really looking forward to our first rest day tomorrow. Given the amount of energy everyone has given to reach this point, it will be the rest we so deserve to charge back up the batteries in preparation for our last move towards the summit.
I, for one, am looking forward to sleeping in tomorrow.
Good night,
Brent
Go Frank, go!! I’m following with excitement and wishing you well. Elizabeth from Rainier session. PS. Brandi is heading to Nepal next week!
Posted by: elizabeth holt on 5/31/2011 at 2:01 am
Wow you guys are doing awsome. I am so happy the weather is in your favor. Enjoy your much need rest day. I will b thinking of you all please stay safe. I love you Maile. xoxo Mom
Hey everyone this is Billy checking in and letting you know that we are back down at high camp after a really successful summit day with near perfect weather. The crew is exhausted but in good spirits. Tomorrow we are going to pack up camp here at 17,000’ and beat feet for the airstrip. Hopefully we will get to the airstrip on Sunday and be able to fly. That is all weather dependent of course. So we will check in when we get to base camp.
Ciao,
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
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I love and miss you a lot. I’m glad your trip is going well.
Posted by: Ashley on 6/1/2011 at 9:40 pm
Love the updates! Keep up the great effort, guys!
Posted by: Kelly on 5/31/2011 at 3:11 pm
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