Entries from Mt. McKinley

Denali Expedition: The Upper West Rib Team Moves to Balcony Camp

June 15, 2016

Posted by: Geoff Schellens, Steve Gately

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

June 15, 2016 - 7:20 P.M. PDT Late last night winds picked up on the upper mountain and persisted into this morning. We woke up early, packed and had breakfast and then watched the wind up high. By 10:30AM we could tell that the trend was diminishing winds, this matched our forecast, so we started up towards the West Rib. The winds had filled in our tracks from the other day so we had to re-break trail back up to our cache. After retrieving our cache we pressed on to gain the ridge and then we picked our way though the first rock band and on up to the balcony camp at 17k. The weather was perfect and with spectacular views of the Alaska Range. The team did a fantastic job today and everyone is feeling good and excited to be climbing. Weather permitting we will go for the summit tomorrow. RMI Guide Geoff Schellens and the UWR Team

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Best of luck on your assent.

Steve G

Posted by: Steve on 6/16/2016 at 5:02 pm

Great job team!! Looking forward to your next post. Keep up the good and safe work !!

Posted by: Allison Woodman on 6/16/2016 at 4:10 pm

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Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Waiting At 14,000’ Camp

June 14, 2016

Posted by: Jake Beren, Katrina Bloemsma, JM Gorum

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

June 14, 2016 - 8:12 pm PT With high winds still a concern we spent another day at 14 Camp on the rest and relaxation program. It was another beautiful day and the team is fully set to jet. If the favorable forecast verifies for tomorrow we will begin our shot for the top by way of the 17,000 camp. Wish us clear skies and calm winds! RMI Guide Jake Beren

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Best of luck Peter, Yeaaaaaaaaaaaaah!

Posted by: John Jnr & Marie on 6/15/2016 at 3:01 pm

The view of Denali today was just beautiful, especially since you all are on her. Praying for calm winds and safe ascent to 17K camp.

Posted by: Isty on 6/14/2016 at 9:50 pm

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Denali Expedition: Beren & Team 14K Camp Day of Rest

June 14, 2016

Posted by: Jake Beren, JM Gorum, Katrina Bloemsma

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

June 14, 2016 - 2:13 am PT What a gorgeous day to be resting on Denali! We didn't get out of the tent until the sun warmed our little cocoons. Pancakes fueled us for a walk to the infamous Edge of the World where we enjoyed unobstructed views of this magnificent mountain and the range that hosts us. Warm and windless was our vantage point and looking from the South Buttress to our first camp around to our current home in Genet Basin contributed to our ever evolving sense of scale. The team answered (or tried to) Denali trivia for a turn to look over the Edge down to the Northeast Fork and make a memory. Back to camp for the afternoon for more rest and an eventual sunset with a just over half full moon taking the trip from Denali over Hunter on its way to Foraker, breaking trail for tomorrow's ascent by the Sun. Wind up high may keep us here for an extra day or two, but somehow I think we'll be just fine. RMI Guide Jake Beren

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Jason,
Absolutely breathtaking! We check on your progress everyday & read the update aloud as a family. We are living vicariously through you. Happy adventures!
~Knutsons

Posted by: Knutsons on 6/14/2016 at 9:09 pm

So exciting to watch your progress!!! We are looking at Denali from Anchorage today. I see a few thumbs up and smiles. Go Jason and team!!!

Posted by: The Hoppes on 6/14/2016 at 3:13 pm

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Denali Expedition: Upper West Rib Team Enjoys the View

June 13, 2016

Posted by: Geoff Schellens, Steve Gately

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

June 13, 2016 - 7:09 pm PT After a big day caching at 16,400' on the rib we slept in this morning. Eventually folks started to rise and trickle into the kitchen where Steve was make breakfast burritos and fresh coffee, we relaxed, ate and drank our fill until around noon. Then we got geared up for a short walk over to the Edge of the World. Today was a perfect day for it with mostly clear skies and no wind. We spent an hour taking pictures and enjoying the view of the Alaska Range before heading back to camp. We did a little bit of fixed line and running belay training and then chilled for the afternoon. Tonight we will be exploring some exotic cuisine from India and sipping tea before bed. It is looking like the next couple of days will bring snow and high winds to the upper mountain so we will most likely have a couple more rest days at 14 before it breaks later in the week. The weather days are actually a blessing in disguise, it allows us to be fully rested and better acclimatize. Everyone is in good spirits and enjoying some down time. Thanks for following along with us, The Upper West Rib team

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Jim and Team, Ry and I are following you everyday. The pictures are absolutely amazing. We’re excited to watch this story unfold. Can’t wait to see you and hear the stories.

Mac & Ry

Posted by: Mac Hawley on 6/15/2016 at 9:14 am

Ben,

As I sit here suffering through shin splints from a 5 mile run, I can’t help but marvel at the undertaking you have taken on. May the force of a thousand Spartan’s guide your way safely and swiftly. This goes for Jim too (and the rest of the team of course). Keep at it bruh. We are all super proud and super stoked. We are beers ready, glittered up.

Posted by: Spiros Botos on 6/14/2016 at 7:19 pm

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Denali Expedition: Jones and Team Return to Talkeetna

June 13, 2016

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Caleb Ladue, Blake Votilla

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

The May 24th Denali Expedition led by RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Caleb Ladue, and Blake Votilla flew off the Kahiltna Glacier yesterday and return to Talkeetna. According to Tyler, the team was planning to celebrate their climb at Talkeetna's Roadhouse. After 18 days of living in tents the team is happy to be back in the land of burgers, beer, showers, and mattresses. Congratulations climbers!

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Welcome back, Bob. I hope you getting busy planning your next beautiful adventure on this wild planet. Cheers to you and the team!

Posted by: Emily Jenson on 6/14/2016 at 1:58 pm

Congratulations to all of you.. Very Cool and I am sure extremely GRATIFYING !!!

Posted by: Mary Anne Kyburz-Ladue on 6/13/2016 at 9:02 am

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Denali Expedition: Beren and Team Carry to Washburn’s Thumb

June 13, 2016

Posted by: Jake Beren, JM Gorum, Katrina Bloemsma

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

June 12, 2016 - 10:53 p.m. PDT We left camp with chilly toes and no one ahead of us. Pushing toward the fixed lines, we were treated to the sun at our first break. The sun (and uphill effort) warmed us up and soon we were steadily working up the fixed lines. It was a beautiful day and the team got their first taste of real altitude. We did fine and cached just below the impressive Washburn Thumb. The time spent on the West Buttress is the best climbing of the route and we had a perfect day to dance on the ridge. Now we are all set up for the next window in the weather to move higher. Tomorrow we will rest up to prepare our bodies for the next challenge. RMI Guide Jake Beren and team

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Jake - wishing you all success and the best weather imaginable. Have been following your steady progress - and remembering what a great job you did leading our team back in the day. See you in the fall, if not before.

Posted by: Peter Rogers on 6/14/2016 at 6:59 am

Jason,
We continue to see the daunting, yet beautiful pictures. We look forward to hearing your stories of struggles and perseverance. The map continues to show you closer to the summit. Keep it up!

Posted by: Shawn Bernard on 6/13/2016 at 10:51 am

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Denali Expedition: Upper West Rib Team Caches Gear at 16,400’

June 13, 2016

Posted by: Geoff Schellens, Steve Gately

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

June 12, 2016 - 10:50 p.m. PDT The Denali - Upper West Rib Team did a great job today. Blue sky and light wind graced us this morning, and despite a slower than desired departure out of camp everyone climbed really well. As soon as we stepped out of camp we sank up to our knees. This was the first day we got off the beaten path and made our own trail up to the Upper West Rib. Unfortunately with all the new snow fall in the last couple weeks breaking trail was difficult and energy expensive. Despite this added challenge the team did a great job and we worked our way up to the West Rib at 16,400'. We cached a couple days of food and fuel here and began our descent as the clouds started to roll over the ridge. We're all tired after a high output day but happy with our accomplishments. The weather forecast is calling for a storm approaching tomorrow and lasting a couple days so we will rest and prep for our summit rotation. Thanks for all the support out there! RMI Guide Geoff Schellens and the Upper West Rib Team

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Dubay, you missed a great summit in Baltimore last week for an even better summit. Good fishing (of course Garrick’s boat caught all the fish), good food, good company. Be safe and enjoy. See you soon.

Posted by: Bill Pinkham on 6/14/2016 at 4:42 am

Amazing photos. Lots of thoughts for you all from down here in WA! Happy climbing!

Posted by: Korinne on 6/13/2016 at 2:55 pm

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Denali Expedition: Upper West Rib Team Rest at 14K Camp

June 12, 2016

Posted by: Geoff Schellens, Steve Gately

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,270'

June 12, 2016 - 11:35 am PDT Good Evening, Today was a very productive rest day for the Upper West Rib team here at 14k camp. We slept in, had a slow breakfast of eggs and hash browns with lots of coffee and then relaxed. At around noon we started building snow walls to fortify our camp. The team was unstoppable! These guys worked for hours and even when I told them to take a break, they would be back at it 5 minutes later. We are planing to cache some food and file up on the Rib tomorrow, weather permitting. Thanks again for following along, RMI Guide Geoff Schellens and The UWR Team

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Great Job ! Happy Monday morning to you all. The view looks spectacular !!!! Have a great day today !

Posted by: David on 6/13/2016 at 7:17 am

Ben, sounds like you are with the perfect team - always moving and pushing ahead! Do the walls make good forts for a snowball fight? Have a great day! Love, Uncle Marc and Elyse

Posted by: Uncle Marc and Elyse on 6/12/2016 at 12:50 pm

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Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Return to Base Camp

June 12, 2016

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Blake Votilla, Caleb Ladue

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,300'

June 11, 2016 - 11:57 pm PT Hi all, we are at Base Camp. Just when you think it's over it's not till the fat lady sings. We packed our camp for what what we had hoped was the last time early this morning. The crew as always on this trip was ready to roll early and we arrived at base camp at 8:30 this morning with lite snow and cloudy skies. With all our will we wished the fog and snow away. Our wish was only met after the planes has powered down for the day. A long day of anticipation of burgers, beer, and more was lost so we enjoyed each others company and reflected on our journey in the Alaska range. With the weather on the lower glacier clearing a bit this evening we're hopeful to see all the colors of the outer world we departed from 16 days ago. Hoping to smell the summer in the low lands and eat like kings tomorrow. Blow some good weather vibes our way! Cheers, RMI Guide Tyler Jones & the team

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Congratulations Blake. Nice. Very Nice!

Posted by: Adelle on 6/13/2016 at 6:19 am

What a long, strange trip it’s been . . .

Posted by: Dad on 6/12/2016 at 1:09 pm

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Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Rest and Train at 14,000’ Camp

June 12, 2016

Posted by: Jake Beren, Katrina Bloemsma, JM Gorum

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

June 11, 2016 - 11:11 pm PT Today was a delight. We slept in a little, enjoyed a leisurely breakfast and hit up some training. The fixed lines loom a thousand feet above us and we prepared ourselves for them with a simulation above camp. We duplicated the transitions with ascenders until the team became certified ascender ninjas. We are ready to tackle them, I only hope they are ready for us. After our training we rested for a bit and then fortified camp. The team busted out walls and worked very well together on the parapets and ramparts that will secure our castle while we are crusading higher. Should the weather hold we will try to establish a cache for the upper upper mountain. We'll let you know how it all goes tomorrow. Sleep well friends. RMI Guide Jake Beren

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Great progress and teamwork! We’re praying for you all!
Jay, Isabelle ran her first 5 miler and did well. She’s looking for her next race. She leaves for bethel today. Love you!
Make it a great day!

Posted by: Isty on 6/12/2016 at 9:23 am

Well said Jodi!!!! Good job team - hopefully you are all helping and supporting each other! Climbing is of course a group effort and it takes everybody to get everybody to the top safely - make sure to help each other along the way!!!!!!!

Posted by: Jesse Godzala on 6/12/2016 at 9:12 am

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Entries from Mt. McKinley

Denali Expedition: The Upper West Rib Team Moves to Balcony Camp

Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Waiting At 14,000’ Camp

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Beren & Team 14K Camp Day of Rest

Denali Expedition: Upper West Rib Team Enjoys the View

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Jones and Team Return to Talkeetna

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Beren and Team Carry to Washburn’s Thumb

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Upper West Rib Team Caches Gear at 16,400’

Denali Expedition: Upper West Rib Team Rest at 14K Camp

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Return to Base Camp

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Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Rest and Train at 14,000’ Camp

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