Entries from Mt. McKinley
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Henry Coppolillo, Tatum Whatford
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,000'
Wednesday, May 31, 2023 - 1:28 am PT
Denali's 17,000' Camp is a necessary evil. It's not particularly pleasant to exist there, even when it's nice out. With our objective secured yesterday, we were all ready to get out of that high and forlorne place. We set out today to get as far from 17,000' Camp as we could. We descended the West Buttress, down the fixed lines to 14,000' Camp. After some socializing with the other teams at 14,000'. We set our goal again with the intention of getting to 11,000ft. It has been snowing quite a bit since we passed these locations. There was a good boot track in, but there was well over 12 inches of new snow blanketing the Polo Field and Windy Corner. We'll wake up early and rally to the airstrip with the hope that we can fly first thing tomorrow. Fingers crossed. Snow camping is fun, especially at altitude, but all anyone can talk about is beer and burgers, and it is time for a shower and feeling warm once again.
RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer
Posted by: Mike Walter, Abby Westling, Emma Lyddan
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 20,310'
The RMI May 7th Denali Expedition led by RMI Guide Mike Walter, reached the summit of Denali Monday May 29th. The team has safely returned to their 17,000' and will continue their descent to the airstrip over the next few days.
Congratulations to all the climbers!
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Henry Coppolillo, Tatum Whatford
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 17,000'
Tuesday, May 30, 2023 - 8:26 am PT
We finally got everything to come together. It was calm and quiet in the morning and we got out of camp early, ahead of everyone else. The Autobahn had filled in and took some work and time to put a track in, across to Denali Pass. It was shady and cold, but the team worked well. At Denali Pass, we stepped into the sun and also a touch of wind - just a light breeze. It kept things cold and we continued to work up. At points we would lose the wind and it would suddenly turn so hot, then back to cold. We played that game to the Football Field, and then up the summit ridge. By midafternoon we were standing on the summit of Denali! The summit was pretty warm and we got some photos before turning against traffic and the rest of the mountain. We retraced our steps to camp and fell into bed, happy to have the first part of the mission accomplished. Now we will set our sights lower on getting to thicker air and the airstrip.
Congrats to all the climbers!
Why do when you can overdo? We love you Chris!
Posted by: Shan on 5/30/2023 at 3:43 pm
Congratulations Adam! Have a safe trip down everyone see ya soon!
Posted by: Matt & Erica Warren on 5/30/2023 at 2:10 pm
Posted by: Nikki Champion, Leif Bergstrom, Lauren Macklin
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,000'
Monday, May 29, 2023 - 11:12 pm PT
Another, you guessed it, weather day for us. As it snowed almost all night, we slept in and had a slow breakfast of blueberry pancakes. Snow continued to fall throughout the day, and we had very little visibility around camp. Folks did normal rest day activities, like walk around camp, meet other teams, rebuild our bathroom into a new palace and change out our socks. We are waiting for a three day weather window to make our way safely to 17,000', to the summit, and home. Until then we continue to check all the weather resources we have available, and try to stay sane.
RMI Guide Nikki Champion
Hoping the weather cooperates and you are soon on your way to the top! Good luck Matt and team, thinking of you all!
Posted by: Kathleen George on 5/31/2023 at 5:36 am
Hi Leif and Team - thinking of you and wishing you a safe successful Summit climb as soon as weather permits-
Posted by: Erika Whittaker on 5/30/2023 at 5:50 pm
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Tatum Whatford, Henry Coppolillo
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 20,310'
RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer checked in from the summit of Denali at 5:50 pm PT on Monday, May 29th. The team returned to their high camp at 17,000' around 1 am PT.
Congratulations to the May 9th Denali Expedition!
Brian….So proud of you and your team! You did it!! It will be so much fun to hear all about it. Be safe!
Posted by: Marilyn Goltry on 5/30/2023 at 6:21 pm
Amazing!!!
Now please come back safely!
Posted by: Lyds on 5/30/2023 at 3:08 pm
Posted by: Hannah Smith, Devin Guffey, Erika Birkeland
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,000'
Sunday, May 28, 2023 - 8:50 pm PT
Hello readers,
Today we woke to descent weather for our carry. It was cold and crisp with clouds flowing here and there. We took off still in the shadows. In not too long we were in the sun with a breeze. We were one of the first people to leave camp and get to the fixed lines. They were icy but with great steps that made it feel secure. This is a steep portion of the mountain and the team gave it their all. After a several hours we were at the top of the fixed lines. There we decided to cache our gear and use the rest of our energy to get down safely. The clouds finally rolled fully in and snow began to fall. We made it back to camp surrounded by white. It has been a long hard day and we are all ready for some rest and that's exactly what we will do tomorrow.
So good night all,
RMI Guides Hannah Smith, Devin Guffey, Erika Birkeland & Team
Lookin forward to more good weather updates! Hope that ramen from the last update is treating you well, it’s making me want some ramen too. Can’t imagine it hits as hard in 75°F weather as it does up on Denali, though. Keep goin strong Corey!!
Anna + Bennett (who literally just had wisdom teeth removed but he wishes you the best in spirit)
Posted by: Anna Nolan on 5/31/2023 at 11:35 am
Hey Hannah! Sending Best wishes and Strength and Stamina to You and Team Tatas!!!
Farmer Dave
Posted by: Dave Kestel on 5/30/2023 at 3:23 am
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Henry Coppolillo, Tatum Whatford
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 17,000'
Sunday, May 28, 2023 - 6:42 pm PT
Today didn't work out exactly as planned. When we got up it was calm as promised, but a complete white out in camp. Snow was falling lightly, straight down. We dragged our feet to see how it would evolve. As the sun came up, the clouds did push up a bit, and with some sight it was clear the wind was moving strong up high. Within a few hours, that wind made it to camp as well. So we spent the day in the tents dodging intermittent snow showers and wind gusts.
We are hoping that tomorrow brings us better summit weather and that Mother Denali let's us pass.
Good luck to you and the team!
Posted by: Marilyn Goltry on 5/29/2023 at 3:53 pm
Posted by: Mike Walter, Abby Westling, Emma Lyddan
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 17,200'
May 28, 2023 12:01 PM PT
We hoped for a repeat of yesterday's weather, but instead we got light snow and wind. Definitely not a summit day.
So we're resting inside our tents inside a ping pong ball. Spirits are high despite today's weather wrinkle. Hopefully tomorrow we'll be able to climb.
We stocked our camp with plenty of food and fuel, so we're able to wait it out a few days. Until next time, we'll be counting the ripstop nylon squares in our tents, dreaming of a sunny and calm day for climbing.
Mike
Well done! Very impressive! Safe journey back to Talkeetna- where the beer is cold and the pizza is hot!!! Yeah! You did it!!! Susan
Posted by: Susan on 5/30/2023 at 10:38 pm
Congratulations! What an accomplishment :-) safe travels on the way down. You should be very proud of yourselves.
Elysia hey
Posted by: Elysia Morrison on 5/30/2023 at 9:42 am
Posted by: Mike Walter, Abby Westling, Emma Lyddan
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 17,200'
May 27, 2023 8:44PM PT
The weather was spectacular today: sunny with very light wind. We took advantage and moved to high camp at 17,200'. Six hours of climbing and another few of building camp and we're all situated. After hydration, lots of calories and some rest, we're hoping to try for the top tomorrow, weather permitting. Fingers crossed!
Mike
Hope that weather window is wide open and today’s the day! Go Team Go! Brett, Enjoy the view and bask in your achievements! Can’t wait for you to share your adventures with us.
PS Game 6 of WCF is Monday VGK leads 3-2.
Posted by: Dianne on 5/28/2023 at 11:30 am
YES!!! Let’s go, no storms and make it to the Summitt!! Great job by everyone.
Posted by: Kim on 5/28/2023 at 8:05 am
Posted by: Nikki Champion, Leif Bergstrom, Lauren Macklin
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,200'
May 27, 2023 10:29PM PT
Today we woke up to brutal cold, and clear skies. We blasted the stoves and rolled into a late morning of granola.
After watching Mike and Pete's teams roll out of camp, we followed suite and began our way up the steep corridor to the base of the fixed lines. We shortened up the rope internals, set up our ascenders, and made our way up the final 700' vertical feet of blue ice to the saddle on the west buttress. Right around 16,100, we crested the buttress and made our way up to our cache site near 16,300'.
After digging a cache hole in the world’s firmest snow, we turned around and made our way back to 14 camp for a late dinner of ramen.
Everyone worked hard and is looking forward to a well-deserved rest day tomorrow.
Nikki, Leif, Lauren and Team
Onward and upward! You’ve got this Kevin!
Posted by: Karie Seubert on 5/29/2023 at 5:37 am
WOW!!! Way to go Kevin and Team! The fixed lines that I have heard so much about and you got to experience it. I know it is tough work but it has to be an incredible reward and experience!!! Climb Strong!!!
Posted by: Dave Kestel on 5/29/2023 at 3:18 am
-640x480.jpg)
-640x480.jpg)
-640x480.jpg)
-640x480.jpg)
-640x480.jpg)
Hey Mike, Just wanted to say Hello from your old friend The Leprechaun. I made life long friends on that trip. Hope your still laughing.
Posted by: DAVID E WOODS on 3/26/2024 at 10:58 am
Mike Walter: How many consecutive summits is this for you on Denali?! Congratulations!
Posted by: Lee Hoedl on 6/22/2023 at 10:08 am
View All Comments