Most Popular Entries

We got out of the tents at 6:30 this morning to find the clouds had returned. It was still calm though and not terribly cold at our 10,000 ft camp. We ate breakfast and hit the trail shortly after 8 AM. The trail was a good deal more rugged than yesterday’s with about a million rocky steps to negotiate as we steadily gained altitude through the giant heather forest. The morning rush hour was something to see, with porters from a half dozen expeditions charging up the path all at once. “Traffic” normalized after a few hours and the angle eased as we reached a ridge crest.

We found ourselves above the clouds once more as we moved along the ridge toward Kibo -which was not only visible again, but a good deal closer than it had been at our last glimpse. We made a big left turn to the North and began the traverse out toward Shira. The terrain got more interesting as we needed our hands on rock to pass a number of ledges.  The vegetation changed as we closed in on 12,800 ft -our high point for the day- we saw more giant senecios and lobelias as things got higher and drier.

Finally, we turned the corner onto the Shira Plateau and began walking downhill toward camp. We pulled in at about 2 PM… just in time for lunch and an afternoon nap. By dinner at 12,500 ft, things had cooled considerably and many of us had several warm clothing layers on for stargazing before bed.

Best Regards,

RMI Guide Dave Hahn & Team

The 2014 RMI Expeditions Mount Everest climb has begun. Slowly. The seven climbers and three RMI guides made their separate ways around the globe- from Canada, from Poland, and from all corners of the United States, to convene in Kathmandu and get the party started. All made it on schedule and with their luggage... a small miracle. The team fought off jet lag long enough to accomplish a few important preliminary tasks. With the help of Sagar -our Nepal agent, and Lam Babu, our Sirdar, we gathered at the Nepal Ministry of Tourism to receive our climbing permit and a short orientation slideshow from the ministers. They emphasized how important it was to bring trash off the mountain and to treat others with respect. They wished us luck and shook our hands. Back at our comfy hotel, the venerable Yak and Yeti, we sat down together for a "welcome dinner" and discussed briefly our plan for getting down to business tomorrow morning when folks have rested and recovered sufficiently. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

This is Gabi and the RMI Aconcagua expedition checking in from Camp 1. This morning we left the comfort of Aconcagua Basecamp and started to head up at 10am. The team did a great job climbing today, it took us 4 1/2 hours to reach the camp. We enjoyed another sunny day. The cold winds on the Andes started to pick up, not too strong yet, but forecast is calling for 75 mph at the top for tomorrow. We will see how hard is blowing here tomorrow morning and we will decide if we do the carry to Camp 2. Our plans B and C for tomorrow are to carry just to the col between Aconcagua and Ameghino (half way to camp 2) or we'll use one of the weather days if winds are extremely strong. We'll be sending dispatches from the new comfort of Camp 1. I am passing the keyboard to Garrett, and he will give you the score of the stoke meter. By popular request we are instituting a daily stoke meter, to share with the world the level of excitement the team is currently feeling. We'll be using a numeric scale that corresponds to a specific level of stoke, defined as follows: 0-2= no stoke. 3-5= semi-stoke. 6-8= stoked. 9-10= TOTALLY STOKED! Today's stoke meter is a healthy 6, which is pretty nice after the climb. Stay tuned for more updates from the team! RMI Guides Gabriel Barral and Garrett Stevens

Another passage from the annals of RMI Aconcagua #5 history: Today was decidedly less hot and subsequently much more enjoyable than yesterday. Our intrepid crew rose early and made short work of our journey from Pampa de Leñas to our second camp on the approach at Casa de Piedras. Sunny skies and a nice breeze kept our spirits high as we cruised through the enormous Vacas Valley. Right as we were arriving in camp we spotted Pete Van Deventer's crew headed down from their successful summit bid. They were looking tired and skinny but super-psyched on their accomplishment and the fact that they were headed for the barn. We gave them high-fives and settled in to build our camp. We too are in good spirits, moving well, and excited to make it to Basecamp tomorrow at Plaza Argentina. Hasta pronto, RMI Guide Billy Nugent and the rest of the gang.

The Four Day Climb July 18 - 21 led by RMI Guides Dominic Cifelli and Jackson Breen reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today around 5:30 am. The team is on their descent and once back at Camp Muir will repack and take a short break before contining the final 4,500' to Paradise.  Reports from the mountain are warm temperatures and light winds.

Nice work team!

The May 8th Mt. McKinley Expedition led by RMI Guides Mike Walter, Pete Van Deventer and Maile Wade is now en route to Base Camp. The weather in Talkeetna was clear this morning and the team headed for the K2 Aviation hanger. Good luck on your expedition!

Monday, June 7, 2021 - 5:38 am PT

We made it to 11,000' Camp last night! Even though our packs were lighter after our cache yesterday, the walk uphill wasn’t easy. The team put in the work to make it to camp before flurries of snow started to fall. Making it to camp was only half the work and we worked into the early hours of the morning setting up tents, melting snow for water, and cooking dinner. The team is settled into our new camp and we couldn’t be more excited to crawl into our sleeping bags!

RMI Guide Kiira Antenucci and the RMI team

Tuesday, May 25, 2021 - 11:33 pm PT

We had another great day here on the southeast fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. Not a cloud in the sky and balmy temperatures made life easy. We woke up a bit earlier today, around 6, ate a quick breakfast and started breaking trail up towards our first climbing objective. Radio Control Tower is a peak located just outside of Base Camp. We made good time getting up to the ridge, and put a lot of different climbing techniques to use.

We got back to camp and hid from the sun in our tents for the early part of the afternoon. Once it cooled off a bit we practiced some crevasse rescue systems around the tents, with the hopes of finding a suitable crack to practice around tomorrow.

Everyone is adjusting quite well to glacier life. We’ve already got a book club in the making, and our nightly live-broadcast podcast is really taking off. Everyone sends their best to the folks back home! You’ll hear from us again tomorrow.

RMI Guide JM Gorum

RMI Guides Peter Whittaker and Mike Haugen led the Four Day Summit Climb teams to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The teams reached the summit about 8 a.m. and reported blustery conditions on the summit. The teams are making their descent and will return to Ashford this afternoon. Congratulations to today's climbers!

I remember when I first stepped into the mountains. I was 11 years old and I had never seen a mountain before, let alone thought of climbing one. My father, older brother, and I traveled to the White Mountains of New Hampshire to climb Mt. Washington (6,288’). I remember finally standing on top of the boulder pile that comprises the summit and feeling the accomplishment. "I did it, I'm on top!" It was windy—a wet cold cloud had moved in during the final hour of tedious boulder hoping to the top—and even at that age I remember quickly coming to the realization that I needed to turn around and walk back down! Mt. Washington is unique in that it has a paved road to the summit along with the world’s first mountain-climbing cog railway train. My brother insisted that we descend via the train. Luckily for me, my father obliged and shortly after the train started it's descent it began pouring. Although I was cozy in a train cabin watching the rain patter off the windows, I didn't soon forget my realization: the summit is only halfway. You hear this quite often in the climbing world. The ability to efficiently descend is a crucial skill in regards to staying safe in the vertical world. Just as with standing on top of Mt. Rainier, Denali, or Mt. Everest, getting down off of a rock climb requires the same amount of focus and effort as climbing it, and in a lot of ways requires much more. Days 5 and 6 of our Rock Guide Course were focused on becoming proficient in our technical descent systems. I was paired up with RMI guide Pete Van Deventer and former RMI guide and current AMGA instructor Jeff Ward, and we traveled over to the Bunny Face Wall of Smith Rocks. On the easy and moderate multi-pitch sport climbs this area had to offer we discussed and practiced rappelling and lowering our climbers: the pro's and con's of each, when and why to use one over the other and a myriad of ways to be more efficient and provide the best experience possible for our climbers. Over the course of the next few days, we climbed a number of different routes and really got the opportunity to apply these techniques in mock guiding scenarios.  When you practice these skills for the first time—or any skill for that matter—it's usually done so in the "best-case scenario.” You start out easy so you can concentrate on the learning. In rock climbing the "best-case scenario" is pretty straightforward and easy to mitigate. Over the next several days of climbing, we learned that the best scenario rarely occurs. As guides, we need to always be prepared for the difficult scenario, and we had the benefit of climbing into some terrain that posed plenty of guiding challenges. This allowed for lots of hands on learning and problem solving. As guides, it's important that we keep our skills sharp and this course was a great reminder that that process truly never ends. 16 years ago I learned that getting to the top is only half way and 16 years later I'm still being reminded of that fact! _____ Steve Gately grew up in Boston, MA, and found his love for the mountains in the White Mountains of New Hampshire. In 2012, Steve combined his passion for teaching, climbing, and the mountains when he started guiding for RMI. Steve now guides year round for RMI, from Argentina to Alaska. Steve will be guiding not one, not two, but three trips to Aconcagua this winter!