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Aconcagua Expeditions: Scott & Team Rest at Basecamp

January 18, 2022

Today we rested at basecamp, avoiding the high winds as much as possible.  The team read books, watched some movies, and ate lots of snacks.  We are waiting for a break in the winds to try and make a final move up the mountain.  

RMI Guide James Bealer

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Admire your perseverance!  Keep on truckin guys.

Posted by: Tom Dietz on 1/20/2022 at 5:24 am

Sending prayers for my brother Rahim and the rest of the team. Love you ghada kahi ka.

Posted by: Sheri Kindred on 1/19/2022 at 11:49 am


Mt. McKinley: Dave Hahn and Team Ready in Talkeenta

We've finished one of the more challenging days of any Denali climbing expedition... Packing, sorting gear and generally getting organized for leaving Talkeetna and getting on the mountain. It wasn't all hard work and suffering though, we certainly enjoyed a great breakfast at the Roadhouse. National Park Service personnel at the Talkeetna Ranger Station gave us a warm welcome and Joe Reichert delivered a fine and informative orientation slideshow. Our flight team out at K2 Aviation made us feel right at home in their hangar, which was where we got our food, tents, stoves, ropes, pots, shovels, fuel, snow saws, snow shoes, packs, ice axes, boots, crampons, sleeping bags, etc, etc, and etc. ready. Finally, we'd earned a break and a relaxing dinner at The West Rib Pub. Folks then drifted home early for a last comfy night in the Talkeetna Motel. The plan is for the team to meet bright and early for breakfast and then to hustle on out to the airstrip... If all goes well and the weather is stable, we could be loading airplanes shortly after 8AM and then winging our way toward the Alaska Range. RMI Guide Dave Hahn
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To my son Brian, Have a safe and happy climbing adventure! I am keeping you and the team in my daily prayers. (Inez read the blog to me, and it sounds like an exciting trip!)Love always, Mom

Posted by: Mom Bulatao on 6/30/2012 at 3:20 pm

Good Luck everyone!!

Tell Dr. Kelliher his A-Track students are sending him (and the whole team) love!

We will be tracking the journey

=)

Posted by: Jenni Lentenbrink on 6/28/2012 at 10:50 pm


Mt. Rainier: Four Day Teams Climb to Ingraham Flats

The Four Day Climb May 9 - 12 led by RMI Guides Steve Gately & Avery Parrinello reached Ingraham Flats, 11,200', today before poor route conditions forced them to turn around.  The teams enjoyed a beautiful morning on the mountain and did a bit of training, then returned safely to Camp Muir.  As of 9 am they had begun their descent from Camp Muir to Paradise. We expect to see them back at BaseCamp in the early afternoon.

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Denali Expedition: Smith & Team Rest at 11,000’ Camp

Wednesday, June 16, 2022 - 8:47 pm PT

Hey-O,

Man did it feel good to sleep in! No alarms just a gradual wake up with no rush to get breakfast going. Twelve hours in a tent can be difficult but it is necessary for the body to adjust to the altitude. It takes a while for the sun to hit camp but once it does it thaws the frost from the tents and turns this frozen camp into a toasty one. While rest was the main goal for today we also needed to sort gear for our carry tomorrow and review some skills with crampons and ice axe. Another team rolled into camp today. It's been quiet here so their presence is welcomed. As the air starts to chill and the sun gets lower we all crawl back into our tents and get ready for the night. Tomorrow will be a fun day getting higher and closer to our objective.

Talk to you tomorrow,

RMI Guide Hannah Smith and Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Yvonne and Nathan will go even further beyond. Plus Ultra baby

Posted by: Kyle on 6/18/2022 at 6:40 am

Love following your adventure!  Stay safe everyone and have an amazing, wonderful time.  Sending virtual hugs and lots of love,
IngaLisa’s Mom

Posted by: Irene Wickstrom on 6/16/2022 at 7:30 pm


50 Years of Climbing: Mele Mason and Mt. Rainier

1984: RMI climber Mele Mason filming a rope team on the upper slopes of Mt. Rainier with a Sony Betacam prototype. ---- In honor of our 50th Anniversary, we are featuring stories of first climbs. Stories from guides and stories from climbers. Today we are excited to share Mele Mason’s story of her first climb: Mt. Rainier in 1984 for her work at KIRO-TV in Seattle, WA. Find out more about having your first climb featured on our blog! ---- I was a video photo-journalist at KIRO-TV in 1984. I had moved to Seattle, WA from my hometown of Omaha, NE. Although I frequently visited cousins in Colorado and participated in some mountain hikes, my experience with altitude and glacial climbing was next to nothing. 1984: Former RMI Guide Phil Ershler (center) talks to climbers as Mele Mason (far left) watches. While working in Seattle, I would marvel at the sight of Mt. Rainier whenever the “Mountain was Out!” I dreamed of climbing and documenting the climb. Reporter Karen O’Leary and I contacted Lou Whittaker of RMI to find out how we could arrange to shoot a story of a typical RMI climb. Lou was very helpful, and set up a date for us to climb with an RMI group, let by Phil Ershler, George Dunn, Gary Talcott, and Phursumba Sherpa. 1984: Mele Mason with the crew on Mt. Rainier. In 1984, most news stations were still using tube video cameras, which were tethered to a separate ¾ inch tape recorder deck. The gear was heavy and cumbersome. Sony had recently come out with a new Betacam, which incorporated the camera and deck into one shoulder mounted camera weighing in at about 25 pounds with battery. Sony was excited about being a part of the first Betacam shot story on climbing Mt. Rainier, so they lent me a prototype camera for the climb. I spent two months training on Mount Si and other peaks close to Seattle, read up on all the ways one could die on the mountain (HAPE, avalanche, rock slide, lightning strike, etc.). For my training day, Lou Whittaker and Phursumba Sherpa took me up to the Muir Snowfield to teach our group how to use crampons, ice axes, ropes and harnesses. They proceeded to throw us down the snowy hill feet first, head first, on belly, on back, to make sure we were able to self-arrest before sliding down the entire hill. 1984: Former RMI Guide Gary Talcott watches as Mele Mason films on Mt. Rainier. The actual climb was actually a life changer for me. Not only was it the most difficult thing I had ever accomplished, but the people I met and the video I produced opened many doors for me, including more climbs in the Himalaya, Karakoram and Mount Kilimanjaro. My video piece won a NATAS (National Academy of Television Arts & Sciences) Emmy for best produced feature short in 1984. We were blessed with fine weather. Gary Talcott packed my enormous camera, I carried batteries and tripod, and Jeanine Wieholt Moore brought along extra gear. I had not acclimated properly coming straight from Seattle, so as we got above Camp Muir, the nausea started in. Fortunately every time I stopped to set up the tripod and camera, the sickness would abate. We were not allowed to slow up the other climbers, so Gary, Jeanine and I would have to start out earlier than the other climbers, set up, shoot the climbers, and then pack up and go on ahead. I have climbed Mt. Rainier twice more, and each time I proclaim that it is the most difficult thing I’ve ever done, but each time the joy and satisfaction and camaraderie that I feel as I walk into the bar at the Paradise Inn, sit my filthy self down and enjoy a frothy cold beer are some of my favorite memories to this day.
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Mt. Rainier: June 14th Update

Our Four Day Summit Climb teams led by Casey Grom and Andres Marin reached the top of Mt. Rainier early this morning. Casey reported beautiful clear skies above 7,500’, a light breeze and cold temperatures. The team will be crossing the crater to Columbia Crest, enjoy the views and then head back to Camp Muir. After a successful summit yesterday, Eric Frank and the Kautz Expedition team will be back at Basecamp in the early afternoon. JJ Justman and the Expeditions Skills Seminar - Emmons team will be spending the day at Basecamp training.
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Cannot wait to hear all about it and see you pictures! Congratulations Dave & John! Must be so amazing up there. :)

Posted by: Miina on 6/14/2013 at 1:30 pm

What a wonderful view from the top!  Great climbing!!  congrats to David and John and the rest of the group1

Posted by: Barbara on 6/14/2013 at 12:16 pm


Cotopaxi Express: Hahn & Team Scramble to Summit of Illiniza Norte

Sunday, May 29, 2022 - 6:33 pm PT

Today we climbed Iliniza Norte to it’s quite pointy summit at 18,818 ft.  The entire group made the top in a mere two and a half hours from the hut.  We began at 6:30 AM in partly cloudy conditions.  It was a little cold and windy at first, on icy and slippery rock and dirt, but things improved.  We got amazing views of Cotopaxi and Iliniza Sur, but the rugged rock scrambling required to get up Iliniza Norte kept us well focused on the task at hand.  We hit the top at 9 AM and spent 30 minutes before beginning a careful descent.  The team moved well, with excellent help from our local guide staff, and we were at the base of the mountain by midday. 

We enjoyed a celebratory steak lunch at a restaurant on the way to Cotopaxi National Park and then made our way uphill and into the park to the Tambopoxi Lodge.  Clouds cleared from the mountain at sunset and we had amazing views of our big objective of the next few days. 

Best Regards,

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Mt. Rainier: June 15th Team Update

The Four Day Climb with RMI Guides Joe Hoch and Ben Ammon spent the night at Camp Muir in a blizzard. The weather broke a bit before dawn, so the team was able to walk to Cathedral Gap before heading back to Muir. They plan on departing Camp Muir at 9 am.

Congratulations Team! 

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Denali Expedition: Walter and Team Ascend Fixed Lines and Carry to 17k, Enjoy Rest Day at 14k

May 21 - 10:36am

Yesterday we woke up to blue skies and no wind, perfect for our carry to high camp. After a quick breakfast we roped up and headed out of camp. We ascended the fixed lines in the sun and traversed the stunning West Buttress in incredible weather. Arriving at 17,000 feet in high spirits we cached our gear for a summit push and descended the way we came. After an 11-hour day we enjoyed a well-deserved meal of Mac and cheese with bacon and tucked ourselves into our sleeping bags to rest. Today, we will continue resting at 14k camp with warm weather, enjoying listening to Wait Wait Don’t Tell Me over brunch and coffee!

RMI Guides Mike, Abby, and Henry

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Brad Enjoy the climb, your getting near the top, be smart and safe. Love Mom and Dad

Posted by: Larry Shears on 5/22/2022 at 5:03 pm

Armchair traveling this ascent with you all! I can’t imagine what it must feel like to be so close! Keep hydrating, MAK!

Posted by: Jenn on 5/22/2022 at 11:42 am


Mt. Everest Expedition:  Team Reaches Camp 2

Yesterday we left off with the group of Dave, Linden and Sara "hunkerin' down" at Camp I for the night, and, given what happened last night, we are sure glad that they did. Our climbing team was hit by huge winds last night at Camp I. In fact, the entire mountain (all the camps) was blasted with extremely high winds and frigid cold. Many tents were lost in the upper camps. Our team survived the night by 1) checking and re-checking the tents to make sure they were secure, 2) eating a big freezed-dried meal for dinner, and then 3) diving into their extremely warm sleeping bags. Sara, who was sleeping in her own tent, radioed me this morning after the winds subsided and said that she sure missed me last night because a couple of times she thought that the tent was going to blow away, and my extra weight would have been helpful. So, to be clear, my daughter missed me for my weight. So touching. After the sun came up the winds died down considerably and the team was able to move from Camp I to Camp II by noon today. Before leaving Camp I they took down the two tents and stuffed them in duffel bags and stored them away (just in case another big "blow" comes along). The entire team is healthy and happy resting at Camp 2 for a big day tomorrow. Assuming the weather cooperates, the team is going to move up to Camp 3 to sleep. Their sleep at Camp 3 will be assisted by bottled oxygen. Then on Tuesday (the 10th) they are going to wake up and walk up toward Camp IV using oxygen, and then return all the way down to Camp 2. The goal is for the team to be back at Base Camp on the 11th, and to beready for a summit bid starting May 18th. Bill M


RMI Guide Dave Hahn checks in from Camp 2 (ABC).

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

SARA my sweet little baby!!! Katherine and I were just flipping through your pictures and we miss you so much!! We can’t wait to see you and I want you to tell me everything about your trip!! Be safe and have fun, love you!

Posted by: Kathryn M on 5/11/2011 at 5:38 am

SARA!!!!!!!!!! you are doing awesome! I am so proud of you!!!!! I think about you everyday. I can not wait till the summer so we can rewatch all of the seasons of laguna beach! Atlanta is pretty boring besides the fact that exams are coming up and everyone has a ton of work. I know these past week have been an incredible experience and a lot of hard work. Keep it up and everyone is praying for you everyday. I know you can do it!!!! get this mountain DUNZO, so I can see you!! I have already said this but I miss you so much, and you are truly amazing. Cant wait to see you soon, you little mountain climber.

Lots of Love,
Spencer

Posted by: spencer on 5/9/2011 at 5:11 pm

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