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Mt. Everest Expedition: Resting and Watching the Weather Forecasts

Today marks our fifth full day back at Base Camp since coming down from our third rotation on the mountain. The days have managed to slip by surprisingly quickly, filled with big meals, visits from friends, time spent reading, playing cards, throwing horseshoes, and most of all - resting. Tuck organized the 2011 Everest Base Camp Horseshoes Tournament a few days ago and filled our small camp with dozens of people from various teams bent on vying for the coveted crown. Besides a few errant throws - we lost a cooking pot to a high flying shoe and somehow managed to tangle a horseshoe in the prayer flags strung overhead - it was a really enjoyable afternoon. Yesterday Dave, Sara, and I spent the morning exploring the lower reaches of the Khumbu Glacier surrounding Base Camp, making our way through the tongues of rock moraine and among the fins of vertical ice that jut up from the glacier. But the overarching focus of these days has been on resting, and it has been paying off. Dave, Sara, and I are all feeling the gains from our leisurely days down here. The solid nights of sleep have calmed any minor altitude coughs and strength is seeping back into the legs. Our Sherpa team descended a few days ago as well and the whole team is now down at Base Camp, enjoying the rest and preparing for the final push. Every morning over the past few days we pull up the latest forecast and discuss the options for our summit bid. This season's weather has been unsettled to say the least and that trend has continued into the summit season. Several teams have made summit attempts over the past few days and the occasional eruption of cheering and clanging pots and oxygen bottles can be heard coming from camps as they celebrate the radio call from their climbers standing on the summit. But the summit season so far has been far from smooth and dozens of climbers have faced real challenges up there, battling high winds and cold temperatures in their attempts. While the temperatures and the snowfall are factors, our big concern is the wind. The jet stream is still playing around this part of the Himalayas, occasionally drawing close to Everest and then receding again, and causing nothing but confusion for the forecast models. The 60+mph winds reported yesterday are a sure indication the jets proximity. And so we are sitting down here, reading over the forecast every morning, hoping that these small snippets of good weather that lay scattered over the upcoming days materialize into a substantial window for us to feel confident to head up on our summit bid. Thus begins the waiting game, a trial in its own right. To sit in Base Camp after so many weeks of hard work, feeling ready and prepared for the summit bid, but stalling over the unstable weather conditions, is a huge mental challenge. On occasion a helicopter lands in Base Camp, picking up climbers returning from the summit - both those who made it successfully and those who did not but battled the cold and wind nonetheless - and whisks them back to Kathmandu in dozens of minutes. It's easy to let the mind wander to all of the luxuries and comforts that await the passengers when they disembark, but not a very helpful exercise. Nevertheless, the focus around camp remains, the days of rest are paying off, and our excitement is building for the upcoming climb. A great number of unknowns lie ahead of us, but we are feeling ready. Tomorrow we will wake up, print out the forecast, sit down in the morning sun to look over what the forecast models predict for wind speeds, temperatures, and precipitation amounts. Hopefully that window we know is coming begins to materialize. RMI Guide Linden Mallory
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Linden, there is a crew of us that you took up Rainier last summer that has been following your blog.  We all wish we were with you now.  Glad to hear that you are having fun and resting for the summit.

Posted by: Smith Cooley on 5/16/2011 at 4:31 pm

Bill, that’s a cool picture of you getting ready to throw the horseshoe. Watch out for the prayer flags and cooking pots. Thanks, Linden, for the description of the waiting game and life in Base Camp. So glad it’s all paying off. We’re praying for a good weather window for the team and a safe journey. Much love.

Posted by: Mom on 5/15/2011 at 11:47 am


Aconcagua: Team Departs Mendoza

Hi all! RMI's Aconcagua expedition checking in. We left Mendoza yesterday and drove through the foothills of the Andes to reach our final staging area at Los Penitentes. The bright green of the vineyards gave way to steep rocky faces as we wound up the valley of the Mendoza river. We were finally rewarded with fleeting views of Tupengato, the 6500 meter volcano on the Chilean border. We spent yesterday packing for the mules, some loads to go straight to Aconcagua Basecamp, and some to follow us on our approach. We woke this morning excited to get our climb underway! We will load the shuttle for the trail head soon, and our climb will begin officially. We'll be in touch soon.
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Dhaulagiri: Elias & Team Check in from Their Approach to Dhaulagiri

Hello this the Dhaulagiri team. We are at the end of our fifth day of our approach to base camp at a location called Italian Camp. We are roughly at 3,700 meters. Everything has been pretty good so far. We have had really good weather on the approach. A couple of snow storms at night. The sunshine at this camp is baking us right now. We are about to have a pretty good meal here. We would like to share also that on the approach, we had a really cool encounter in one of the villages. We shared some of the supplies that we gathered over the last year from supporters who have been pitching in to bring us here. So that was really neat to share these items with a village on our way to Dhaulagiri. Everything is well like I said. We have about two or three more days to get into Base Camp from where we will be checking in once we arrive. So we hope all is well and we will keep you posted. Bye. RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos


RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos calls in from Italian Camp.

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Kahiltna Seminar: Gorum and Team Enjoy the Expedition Lifestyle

Thursday, May 28, 2021 - 7:43pm PT

Today was a slow day for us on the Kahiltna. We alternated between blue skies and whiteout, and the wind blew a steady 20-30mph all morning. We made hash browns, eggs, and quesadillas for brunch, traded card tricks, and talked about a few climbing related things.

The wind has now died down, and we’ve got a little bit of evening sun. Everyone is well rested and ready to get moving around tomorrow, so hopefully the weather cooperates. That’s it from us on the lower Kahiltna, another good day in the books!

RMI JM Gorum and Kahiltna Seminar Team. 

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Aconcagua: Beren & Team Wishing All a Merry Christmas!

Holiday greetings to all our friends around the world! Down/up here on Aconcagua it has been a Christmas to remember. We went on an acclimatization hike towards C1, enjoyed a favorite mountain holiday tradition of quesadillas a la Leon, and generally enjoyed each other's company. Tomorrow we will ride the (hopefully) improving trend of decreasing winds and try to carry up to Camp 1. Our time spent at BC prepares us for strength on the upper mountain and we look forward to making the most of it. Here are a few shout outs from the team: "Feeling great! Love you all. MUAT baby." "Merry Christmas family and friends. Love from 14,000 feet." "Love you family! #2, wish you were here! Love you, #1" "Jeanne, Love you." "Merry Christmas Fam!" "Adi, having a great time. See you soon. Do your homework-love, Dad" "Vien, all I want for X-mad is you." A few of us might have been napping, but rest assure we all miss our people and can't wait to share this adventure when we return. RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

#1, thanks for the shout out!  Thinking of your every day and wish I could be there.  Be safe.  Love you.  #2

Posted by: Jonny Boy on 12/27/2012 at 8:34 am

Hi Michael, I miss you and I love you! Be safe and have fun.

Posted by: Vien Vail on 12/27/2012 at 1:33 am


Mt. Elbrus: JJ Justman & Team Summit!

I don't mean to brag. I don't mean to boast. I like jelly on my breakfast toast and I also like every team member on the summit of Mt. Elbrus, which is where we are right now and I'll tell you what, the team did a fantastic job today. We have beautiful weather. About a 15 mph wind on top to keep us cool. But I'll tell you what the team hung in there, it was a long day climbing and everyone has their feet on the summit, up here on Europe's highest mountain, Mt. Elbrus. Thank you guys so much for following along and we will touch base with you when we get down. We still have a little bit of work to do so we're drinking some water, eating a little snack, and take some photos, and then we're gonna do the really kind of the hardest part to be honest, which is getting down but everyone is doing fantastic. We'll touch base with all of you later. Ciao from Russia. RMI Guide JJ Justman


JJ Justman from the Mt. Elbrus Summit

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Sam et aliae et alii, Charlotte plans to pick it up on the way down.

What a thrill.

Posted by: David on 7/30/2012 at 8:20 pm

congrats on the summit! any word on the descent?

Posted by: ryan on 7/30/2012 at 10:47 am


Kilimanjaro: Hahn & Team Explore Lake Manyara on First Day of Safari

Jambo from Safari Day One.  We left the Rivertrees Inn just past 7:30 this morning with our safari guides (and drivers) Simon and Nixon.  It took nearly an hour to break free of the big city of Arusha and to get traveling through the arid countryside to the west.  Before long we were seeing herds of cattle tended by Maasai in their distinctive tartan blankets.  We peppered our guides with questions about Tanzanian history, society and life in general.  By the time we reached Lake Manyara at 11 AM we were considerably smarter.  We entered the forest and the National Park all at once and began looking for wildlife.  Monkeys and Baboons were first up.  We began to see some great birds as well.  There weren’t great numbers of animals but eventually we were finding elephants, giraffes and Cape buffalo.  Simon and Nixon were clearly on a mission following our picnic lunch.  They were chasing clues that took us farther and farther into the park, basically a strip of forest between the gigantic lake and a steep escarpment of the Great Rift Valley.  Finally, we hit a small jackpot.   There were a family of elephants on one side of the dirt road we sat on -and three lions lounging amid trees on the other side.  About a hundred feet separated these two factions of the “big five” (and we were directly between them).  The lions (a big male and two females) were napping, but it was the kind of napping where they put their heads up to watch every move the elephants made.   Eventually we bid them goodbye as it was getting a little late and we had some distance to go to reach the town of Karatu and The Plantation Lodge hidden away back in the farmland.  We pulled in just before 7PM and quickly made ourselves at home.  Tomorrow we’ll get an early start on our journey into Ngorongoro Crater. 

Best Regards

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Ecuador Volcanoes: King & Team Check Out Quito and Hike Rucu Pichincha

This is Mike checking in for the Ecuador Team. Apologies for missing yesterday, we just had to much fun getting to know each other and walking around Quito. We went to the equator and watched a bunch of parlor tricks relating to the Middle of the Earth. We also learned about the art of Amazonian head shrinking. We concluded the day walking through the beautiful streets and plazas of Old Town which was built in the mid 1500’s.

This morning we met up with one of our Ecuadorean guide,Pablo, for an acclimatization hike on Rucu Pichincha. We rallied up in taxis to the teleferico (gondola) which takes you to 13,500’. The views of the greater Quito valley were spectacular. From there we hiked to 15,700’ and got some views but we were mostly in the clouds with cool temperatures. The goal today was to stretch the legs and lungs a bit and just get out to see the beautiful Ecuadorean countryside. The trail wandered through grassy slopes and a lot of flowering shrubs.

Everyone is back at the hotel for some rest and packing. We will head out tomorrow for another day hike and travel towards Cayambe for our first climb of the trip. Thanks for following along

RMI Guide Mike King

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Wow

Posted by: Bernie lanigan on 12/5/2019 at 4:09 pm


Mexico: La Malinche Acclimatization Climb

Fortunately for the team the cloud that built over La Malinche lost some intensity and broke long enough to allow us to all stand on the summit. Congratulations on a great day! Our climb to the top of this 14,500' volcano is a major part of our acclimatization process. To get to such a high elevation and be able to rest really helps get us ready for our next few days. Everyone climbed strong and after a big day is set for some hot showers and a good night's sleep. Well done! RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Snuggled in tent now to get up soo early for climb.  Good luck and we love you,  Rollie

Posted by: RollieAllen on 3/9/2011 at 4:46 pm

Mom - We hope you are doing great! Good luck on Orizaba… tonight at midnight! We love you and have a great time! XO

Posted by: Libby and Robby on 3/9/2011 at 5:10 am


Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team waiting out the weather at 9,500 Camp

Friday, June 25, 2021 - 6:35 pm PT

This will be our third night hunkered down at 9,500' on the Kahiltna Glacier.  It got snowing around midnight last night and just kept going.  We checked the weather every hour or so to see if we could get a lull for climbing, but no.  Thankfully the winds never got to more than about 20 mph, but they blew steadily throughout the day.  We’d taken the precaution of pulling down the dining/cook tent at 1 AM so it was an easy enough thing to build it again at 8 AM to have a dry and calm space for breakfast.  Bagels and salmon and a few laughs together before we climbed back in the tents to ride out the storm.  By dinner time the snow was falling thick and fast and we were happy to be high enough to be avoiding rain.  With dinner complete we did a round or two of chores to strengthen our camp and then crawled in for the night.  According to the forecast, tomorrow should be partly sunny.  Until then it will be anybody’s guess as to how many hours of noise we’ll endure as the wind and snow pummel the tent fabric. 

Cheers, 

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Good luck guys, wish you all the best! Hope the weather breaks for you. Rest well and may peace be with you

Posted by: Gregory Hatt on 6/30/2021 at 9:44 pm

My son hectoris there with you. I would love to know about his knees and health, how is he doing please

Posted by: Laura fernandez on 6/27/2021 at 7:53 am

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