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Vinson Massif: Carry High, Sleep Low

We made pretty good use out of today. The weather wasn't perfect, it still seems like the long, slow storm is lingering, but it wasn't all that bad either. There was still a ton of cloud hanging around when we got out of the tents at Low Camp this morning. We'd done the traditional sleep in until 11 AM so as to avoid the cold cold Vinson shadow that haunts Low Camp, but the surprise turned out to be that it really wasn't all that cold. The clouds had kept some heat in for us. Everybody was feeling good and well-rested, so we grabbed some supplies, shoved them in our packs and headed for high camp. The goal was to do a carry, to bring food up for our eventual move to high camp. But moving that food up wasn't nearly as important as getting everyone familiar with the climbing route and getting in some good exercise at altitude. We did all of that. The "meat" of the day was toiling for about three hours on the steep and continuous "fixed rope" section of the hill. By the top of the ropes, the weather had taken a slight turn for the worse, with a slight, but persistent breeze blowing new falling snow, We carried on the extra hour and a half to high camp anyway, since it seemed we were getting such good experience in and everyone was climbing strong. We were up to high camp by about 7:25 PM, meaning we were spot on the expected six hours. We just took a few minutes to cache the gear and food and then we were off down the hill. We got warmer as we descended and made pretty good time with light packs. It was 9 PM when we reached the base of the ropes and just another fifteen minutes or so brought us into camp. The sun came out while we were eating dinner and getting ready for bed, making all of that just a little bit easier. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

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Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Use Weather Day Due to Winds

Monday, May 16, 2022 - 9:37 pm PT

At 4 am this morning the wolf tried his first huff. He then continued to huff and puff and try to blow down our house but we had built it strong. While we hunkered in our tents it was clear that it wasn't a day to try to walk anywhere. It blew for the morning but by early afternoon began to abate and have us a chance to get out of the tents and stretch our legs. This evening turned gorgeous as the wind went calm and the skies cleared. We should have smooth sailing for a move to 11,000' Camp tomorrow. We'll touch base.

RMI Guides Pete, Erika, Leif, and team

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Albert!!!
Imagino que podràs rebre el nostre missatge. Pel que veig, de moment dies amb bones vistes i només un dia de fort vent. Espero que estiguis bé i en forma i que l’expedició estigui anant bé. Les fotos del blog es veuen espectaculars. Molts ànims des de Catalunya!!! Endavant amb l’expedició!!

Posted by: Marc on 5/22/2022 at 11:08 pm

My wife and I are in Alaska and have a flight planned on Sat, 5/21 at 13:30 to view Denali and land on a glacier - with K2. Stu - I hope to see ya somewhere around the 14K camp - from the air. Good luck Stu - and the entire team. Kyle

Posted by: Kyle Martin on 5/20/2022 at 11:54 pm


Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Reaches Summit

The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guide Peter Whittaker reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. Peter reported windy conditions on the summit. The team is making their descent and we expect them back at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon. Way to climb!
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Denali Expedition: Smith & Team Make Difficult Decision to Descend

Wednesday, May 31, 2023 - 10:50 pm PT

Hello trusty readers,

Sorry for the gap in dispatches. Things got a little busy with logistics. We took two rest days at 14,000' Camp figuring out weather and logistics on who wanted to continue up and who wanted to go down. With weather being finicky most of the team decided to focus on getting off the mountain. For those that desired uphill movement it was the weather we needed to figure out. After many ominous forecast with only small windows of calm we decided our best option was to stay together as a team and make our way down the mountain. Its always a hard decision to go down, especially when you still have time. But sometimes, the cards just aren't in your favor. It's been a great trip even without the summit. We have made it back to 11,000' Camp and are taking a quick nap before we make our way to the airstrip. Tomorrow is suppose to be the best weather day so figures crossed we make it off the glacier.

Goodnight all,

RMI Guides Hannah, Devin, Erika, and Team

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Hey Hannah and Team,
That is a bummer but like you have always said, “its about the experience!”

Posted by: Dave Kestel on 6/2/2023 at 4:01 am

To go as far as all the teams went is to say they made it to the top…like many who expressed…thank you for your wisdom in playing it safe. So impressed. Bethany ...you did a spectacular display of strength and determination and so many have expressed how inspired they are of your accomplishments. Looking forward to hearing details.
Love M❤M

Posted by: Jan L. Gray on 6/1/2023 at 2:25 pm


Denali Expedition: Schmitt & Team Move to 11,000ft Camp

Monday, June 7, 2021 - 5:38 am PT

We made it to 11,000' Camp last night! Even though our packs were lighter after our cache yesterday, the walk uphill wasn’t easy. The team put in the work to make it to camp before flurries of snow started to fall. Making it to camp was only half the work and we worked into the early hours of the morning setting up tents, melting snow for water, and cooking dinner. The team is settled into our new camp and we couldn’t be more excited to crawl into our sleeping bags!

RMI Guide Kiira Antenucci and the RMI team

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Come on, sport! Let’s driiiiiink

Posted by: Craig on 6/8/2021 at 6:28 am

Neva send a threat on the internet just to prove a point

Posted by: NLE Choppa on 6/8/2021 at 4:47 am


Mt. Rainier: July 17th Update

RMI Guide Mike Haugen led his team to the Mt. Rainier summit via the Disappointment Cleaver Route this morning with beautiful weather and a slight breeze. The team began their descent at 10:00 a.m. RMI Guide Jason Thompson was leading his team on the Emmons Route on the northside of Mt. Rainier. Due to firm conditions and a cloud cap developing on the mountain, the team had to make the tough, but more importantly, safe decision to turn at 12,500'. They will stay at Camp Schurman tonight and descend the mountain tomorrow.
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To Steve D. on Emmons-

I was following you on SPOT and saw a turnaround.  Then I came here to the blog and read about the cloud cap developing.  Bummer!

-Larry Seaton

Posted by: Larry Seaton on 7/17/2012 at 3:45 pm

Good luck Mehok brothers!!

Posted by: Mike Mehok on 7/17/2012 at 12:23 pm


Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team 14K and a Snow Day

The weather forecast was right on this time... A day of snow. It was a little bit like the inside of a milk bottle for most of the time. There were a few hours when the clouds were thinner and the sun's heat could be felt through the storm, but the snowflakes never quit falling. It was not going to be a climbing day for our team and so we turned it into a fine rest day. Solveig Waterfall taught an excellent course in avalanche beacon use. Tim Hardin and Cody Doolan built the mother of all snow kitchens. The team listened patiently to old guide stories and chatted over the current events we could pick up from the Anchorage FM stations. We had a few sessions of cutting snow blocks and building walls around the tents. Mostly this was done for exercise and to get warm, since as yet this particular storm hasn't come with the wind which would necessitate walls. We are happy for that and are somewhat resigned to another day or two of this same system. Best, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

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Dear Cathy,I’m happy to hear that everybody is doing well even thought the weather is not colaborating. Just be pacient and careful and not to worry because you guys will make it to the top. Do not forget the pictures!!!

Posted by: Carmen Allen on 7/9/2012 at 2:28 pm

Cathy,
I enjoy reading the blog every morning. I hope the conditions will get better soon and you can move on! Alan and I need you for a long overdue ER meeting back here in San Diego!
Good luck to you and the team,
Gerhard

Posted by: Gerhard on 7/9/2012 at 1:12 pm


Mt. Elbrus: Mallory & Team Acclimatize at Base of Mt. Elbrus

We woke to the steady patter of rain falling on the village of Cheget this morning. The clouds hung low in the valley, all of the mountains above still obscured. But to the west the clouds were thinning and the rain let up as soon as we finished breakfast. We left the hotel and walked over to the base of the ski lifts to catch a ride higher into the mountains. We hopped onto the lift, each chair painted a different color, and slowly rose into the clouds. At one point the lift stretched across a high point and all we could see was the little yellow and red chairs bouncing along into a sea of grey. By the time we passed the switched lifts at the mid station the clouds began to part and soon the views were improving. Near 10,000' we unloaded from the lifts and began hiking above the resort towards the summit of Peak Cheget. We navigated the narrow climbers' trail, scrambling across the big rock slabs and over boulders, quickly gaining altitude on the narrow ridge. The weather continued to improve and we were soon shedding our rain jackets in favor of sunglasses. Close to 11,500' the skies briefly parted and we caught our first views of Mt. Elbrus across the valley. The view was fleeting, as the window in the clouds quickly closed, but we were able to see our entire route to the summit. By midday we reached the summit of Peak Cheget near 12,000'. The change in altitude from Moscow (~500') was noticeable, but everyone on the team felt strong. We stayed on the summit for a few minutes before descending back down the trail to the lifts and returning to town for the afternoon. We spent the rest of the day sorting and organizing our gear in anticipation of moving onto the mountain. Tomorrow we head up to our hut along the edges of Mt. Elbrus' glaciers where we will spend the next four nights. We are excited about getting on the mountain and looking forward to trading our hiking shoes for climbing boots and crampons. We will check in tomorrow from the Garabashi Hut. RMI Guide Linden Mallory

On The Map

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Planning to spend some time with heavy-drinking Russian soldiers on this climb? Or was that a one time thing? Is there a plan to introduce those chairlifts on Denali?

Posted by: Madhu Rao on 7/14/2012 at 4:56 pm

Have a great time. Be safe, have fun and drink soup at the barrels, and catch a fish! Bill M.

Posted by: Bill McGahan on 7/13/2012 at 2:16 am


Mt. Everest Expedition: Dave Hahn Checks in From ABC

This is Dave Hahn calling from Advanced Base Camp on Mt. Everest. Myself and Linden Mallory came up today on our new formulated summit plan. We went from Base Camp to Camp 2 today. It was stunning to us the changes in the ice fall, there had been a massive avalanche that had come off the west shoulder, and came right down along the climbing route. It actually made the route better by filling in the crevasses and knocking over all the little walls we were climbing over. It was pretty sobering to think that that same avalanche had it come down when climbers were going though the ice fall, it would have killed many people. As it turned out it came down at a time, sometime this last week, when nobody was in the icefall. That was really something to see. Linden and I came up through Camp 1 and straight up to Camp 2 in pretty good time and had good conditions. While we were walking there was cloud cover right from the start and from Camp 1 that was real helpful because it kept the sun off of us and light breezes as well so we didn’t dry out as much coming up here as we might normally have. Tcherring also came up so the three of us are up and we hope that Kaji and Dawa are able to come up tomorrow and that will be the making of our summit team. We are going to rest here tomorrow as planned. And take it easy at Advanced Base Camp tomorrow and hoping to go from ABC all the way up to Camp 4, skipping Camp 3 on the following day and be in place for our summit bid. So we’ll see what the weather does. We are keeping careful track of the weather right now. It is snowing lightly here and Mark Tucker says it is snowing more heavily at Base Camp. We are very interested in what the weather does down there because Bill and Sara are hoping to fly via helicopter from Base Camp to Kathmandu. They weren’t able to fly today due to weather. So we are keeping our fingers crossed for them tomorrow. That is all for the moment. We’ll be in touch. RMI Guide Dave Hahn
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Dave and team, you can do it!  Climb strong but be SAFE!

Posted by: Andrew Propst on 5/19/2011 at 11:30 pm

Climb strong, Linden, and good luck!!! Can’t wait to hear about it all!
Xo-Dana Marie and John

Posted by: Dana Marie Buchanan on 5/18/2011 at 6:54 pm


Mt. Rainier: Hahn, Ammon & Five Day Climb Turned by Winds

The Five Day Climb May 25 -29 led by RMI Guides Dave Hahn and Ben Ammon reached 13,200ft on Mt. Rainier today before high winds forced them to turn back. The teams have safely returned to Camp Muir where they may do some additional training and enjoy a final night on the mountain. The team will descend the remaining 4,500' to Paradise tomorrow and conclude their program.

PC: Dave Hahn

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