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Aconcagua Expedition: The Team Back from a Successful Carry to Camp 2

January 15, 2012

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua

Elevation: 16,200'

Hello again from Camp 1 on Aconcagua. We had a successful carry to Camp 2 today. It was very busy leaving camp this morning, about 60 climbers heading up. The weather was great, sunny and warm with a fresh breeze. We got 4 inches of snow last night, so the mountain is beautiful right now. The whole crew did great on the carry today. Camp 2 at 18,000' was a new high point for a lot of folks. We are now back at Camp 1 resting and diverting a fast flowing river that is trying to submerge our tents. We are resting tomorrow before we move higher on the mountain. Hope this dispatch finds everyone doing well and enjoying the new year. You'll will be hearing from us soon, The Aconcagua team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Proof that Wally is the most thoughtful man on earth; he asked Bryan,(who unfortunately had to cut his climb short due to asthma) to send me an e-mail letting me know “he is in good shape, and has already made it to 19,000 feet. Waltor is an awesome man, he has made this trip soooo enriching. Dont worry about him”. The Wally Glover fan club can now breath a little easier! Thanks Bryan!

Posted by: Lori on 1/17/2012 at 10:47 am

ANNE GILBERT,

HI, BEAUTIFUL PICTURES….ENJOY AND STAY SAFE.

LOVE YOU,MOM

Posted by: CHRIS CHASE on 1/16/2012 at 11:37 am

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Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team - High Hopes, Low Camps

July 16, 2011

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,800'

7800' Kahiltna Glacier We had high hopes this morning at 14 Camp. The sky was clear and although we could see signs of wind up high on Denali's South Peak, we believed we could finally get up to 17,200'. At least we felt that enthusiasm until just after breakfast when I used the satellite phone to track down the weather forecast. It called for snow. It actually called for lots of snow... Like 30 inches in the next 24 hours. This was difficult information to reconcile with the sparkling blue sky and brilliant sunshine we were then enjoying. And it was particularly hard to reconcile such a possibility of big snow with our diminished food supplies. I gathered the team and gave them the hard conclusion the four guides had reached: we could not go up with such a prediction on our 17th day of a 22 day trip. If the forecast were even half right, we'd be trapped at 17,000 ft waiting for avalanche conditions to stabilize and by the time we were on our way down the mountain we wouldn't have enough food to deal with any further setbacks to our progress. In mid-July with no Park Service personnel on the mountain and with no well-worn track in the snow and with plentiful crevasse puzzles to solve down low on the glacier, we needed to anticipate further challenges to our descent of the mountain. We could no longer look up the hill. In fact, we couldn't even sit at 14 Camp long enough to see if the dire snow predictions came true since such a snowfall would set up a significant avalanche hazard threatening our route down to 11,000'. It was a tough thing then to let go of our summit ambitions while the sun was shining and while we still had food and fuel and while the remaining teams on the mountain reached seemingly opposite conclusions as to how to deal with the storm. But we packed up anyway and started carefully down the mountain. Ever so slowly, the clouds moved in, but we still had great views from Windy Corner and excellent traveling conditions down through 11 camp. It got a bit murky and mushy as we pushed down onto the main Kahiltna Glacier and we needed to be careful of sagging snow bridges on the crevasses of Ski Hill, but that all worked out fine. In just over six hours we reached 7800' and called a halt to the day's march. Time for dinner and some rest in our tents. The glacier surface is soft, soggy and not terribly supportive and the light is flat... Not ideal conditions for taking on complicated crevasse fields. We ate dinner and got in our tents as the snow began to fall. Our focus is now on completing the final push to the airstrip, but on our terms -when conditions are favorable. RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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To Dave and the team, Sending warm wishes for a safe return down the mountain. I have infinite thanks to Dave and the team for maintaining safety as the number one priority. To all of the climbers (especially John M)- we are all so proud of you. Though your summit bid plans had changed, I am inspired by the journey you took to get there. I can imagine this being a memorable experience for each and everyone of you. I applaud you all for your inspiring patience, outstanding discipline, and stellar persistence in moving up Mount McKinley. Cheers to you all!!

Posted by: Jennifer on 7/16/2011 at 10:22 am

Dear Daddy and Dave and team
We know you weren’t just there to tick off a box we know that you were just there to have fun!!!!!!You’re the best dad ever and you’re very brave
From Claire and Sietse

Posted by: Claire and Sietse on 7/16/2011 at 9:58 am

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Dhaulagiri: Elias & Team Check in from Their Approach to Dhaulagiri

April 2, 2014

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Jake Beren, Geoff Schellens

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Guide News

Elevation: 12,139'

Hello this the Dhaulagiri team. We are at the end of our fifth day of our approach to base camp at a location called Italian Camp. We are roughly at 3,700 meters. Everything has been pretty good so far. We have had really good weather on the approach. A couple of snow storms at night. The sunshine at this camp is baking us right now. We are about to have a pretty good meal here. We would like to share also that on the approach, we had a really cool encounter in one of the villages. We shared some of the supplies that we gathered over the last year from supporters who have been pitching in to bring us here. So that was really neat to share these items with a village on our way to Dhaulagiri. Everything is well like I said. We have about two or three more days to get into Base Camp from where we will be checking in once we arrive. So we hope all is well and we will keep you posted. Bye. RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos calls in from Italian Camp.

Mt. Rainier: July 27th Summit!

July 27, 2013

Posted by: Win Whittaker, Billy Nugent

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

The American Lung Association (ALA) Climb for Clean Airs summit climbs led by Win Whittaker and Billy Nugent reached the Mt. Rainier summit this morning! With beautiful weather, the teams took in the views, snapped some photos, and began their descent at 7:30 a.m. After a break at Camp Muir, the teams will celebrate with the ALA in Paradise this evening. Congratulations to today's ALA teams!

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ALA climbers - great work! RMI guides - thanks for an awesome climb!

Posted by: JOHN GRANEN on 7/29/2013 at 6:59 am

makes me want to stop smoking!congrats to the team!

Posted by: BILL NUGENT on 7/27/2013 at 10:49 am

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Fisher Chimneys: August 8th Summit!

August 8, 2012

Posted by: Mike Walter, Eric Frank, Geoff Schellens

Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades

Elevation: Summit

Hey gang...all is good here on Shuksan. We're on top at 9:30 am with 100% success! The weather is perfect, with no clouds above us and barely a breath of wind. We have great views of many northwest peaks from Rainier to Canada. We'll be in touch after we return to our camp. Cheers, RMI Guide Mike Walter

Denali Expedition: Smith & Team Carry Gear Above 14,000’ Camp

June 22, 2022

Posted by: Hannah Smith, Kiira Antenucci, Daniel May

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

Tuesday, June 21, 2022 - 9:56 pm PT

Hey hey hey,

You freeze, you fry they say in the mountains and oh did we do both. A frosty morning greeted us as we packed for our carry and ate our cherrios. Hot coffee brings you to your happy place as you thaw your fingers on the vessel. It's a quick walk to the edge of camp before the terrain steepens and we approach the bergschrund where the fixed lines begin. It's steep gaining the West Buttress but man are the views great. A birds eye view of 14,000' Camp give perspective along with the grandeur of everything around us. We bumped just another couple vertical feet up the Buttress before digging our hole for our cache. The morning started cold but soon turned to hot when the sun arrive. By time we got to our cache it was windy and clouds were swirling around us. As we retraced our steps back to the fixed lines we lost the wind and then entered a mega heat bubble. The temps swing so drastically, so quickly out here. It was a solid day of work today that deserves a rest day tomorrow. We are now in position to wait for a weather window to go for our summit bid.

Here's to waiting and being pateient,

RMI Guide Hannah Smith and Team

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CJ - Great progress. Best of luck on your summit push.
Bill

Posted by: Bill Hanna on 6/22/2022 at 3:44 pm

N&Y - Excited for u2!! Good luck with the summit push. We’ll be cheering you on and sending positive mojo.!! Love you both and can’t wait to see pics and hear all about it. Tim & Ellen

Posted by: Tim Lewis on 6/22/2022 at 1:23 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Haugen’s Team Moves to 9,600’ Camp

June 16, 2013

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Mike Uchal

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 9,600'

Sunday, June 16th, 2013 Happy Father's Day to all of our dads from Summit Team 6! We bit off another chunk of the mountain this morning ascending to 9,600 feet. Only 10,600 feet to go! We arrived at our new camp around mid morning. Our team is quickly becoming McKinley camp experts, so it did not take us very long to dig in camp. We had some extra daylight (oh yeah, it is always daylight), so we decided to dig a monster posh house. A posh house is our version of a cook tent. It is like a snow cave where the cooking and seating area is dug into the snow below ground level. The roof is a big top-like tent that is held up by a pole that goes from the apex to the floor of the snow pit. Now we have room for company. The weather forecast looks stellar so we should be able to move up to 11k Camp tomorrow. RMI Guide Mike Haugen and Summit Team 6 P.S. Lance says thank you to his wife and girls for the Father's Day card!

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Wow!I am speechless! What a great experience! I am so proud of my friend Cindee Teer! I hope all goes well, and everyone is safe! The Turner Family

Posted by: Ingrid on 6/17/2013 at 7:01 pm

It sounds like things are going so well! Steve, we are thinking of you constantly. Tania went home today and we miss her, but we had fun this weekend talking about how WE are not on a glacier, but enjoying summer in the mountains. Just so you know, Tania did awesome this weekend.

Posted by: Lisa Mackey on 6/17/2013 at 7:01 pm

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Everest Base Camp Trek: Linden and Team Summit Island Peak!

March 31, 2012

Posted by: Linden Mallory

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest BC Trek

Elevation: 20,300'

Hey RMI. This is Linden Mallory calling from Island Peak High Camp. We touched the top today. We had a pretty phenomenal climb. Everybody made it, 100% success! The morning started out clear. We had beautiful stars as we were climbing. Nice morning sun. And then right as we started down, we had more snow. Keeps snowing pretty consistently since early this afternoon. The afternoon made the descent a little tricky with all that new snow on top of the rock, but the team did well. We handled it without too many problems and now we are looking forward to heading downhill tomorrow. We will be down lower in the valley tomorrow and will try and send out some photos and a written account. So that's the news. We're all really happy about the climb and happy to be down. And looking forward to getting out of here. Take care. RMI Guide Linden Mallory

Linden Mallory and the Island Peak team summit!

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You ladies are truly amazing (you too, Linden)! We are so proud to say that we are pals of such mountain climbing rock stars. Now come on home safely. We can’t wait to hear the tales of adventure in person.

Posted by: Hugh on 4/1/2012 at 6:26 am

You ladies totally rock. It was so exciting to read the news from Linden. What a great accomplishment for all of you and perhaps most especially Linden! Can’t wait to see you and hear tales of this great adventure. Safe travels home.

Posted by: Mac on 4/1/2012 at 4:53 am

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Everest Base Camp Trek & Island Peak Climb: Return to Namche

April 10, 2011

Posted by:

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest BC Trek

Elevation: 11,300'

After several nights in tents high in the mountains here sleeping in the teahouse in Chukung last night was warm and comfortable. The morning broke mostly clear, although a large cloud cap hung over Lhotse and Island Peak. Packing up from Chukung, we headed back down the valley, retracing our steps through Dingboche, Shomare, Pangboche, Deboche, Tengboche, etc. Leaving the high mountains of the Himalaya is like watching the world being reborn around you: yesterday we were on the summit of Island Peak in a world of ice, rock, and snow; we returned to Chukung where small shrubs and grasses survive and a few hardy crows venture; today as we walked small bushes sprang up, then a few sparse trees, and then forests, then flowering rhododendron. The smell of the air changes too, the dirt, trees, and yaks all adding to the aromas of the lower elevations. As we descended the valley today it was as if life sprang up around us with every step and the little things that went on unnoticed suddenly attracted attention: the bark of a dog, a warm breeze, flower petals. Despite all being immersed in the scenes around us, it was still a long day on the trail, taking the better part of the day for us to return to Namche. We arrived tired from the trail, but marvelling at the arrival of spring in the days since we've been gone. It feels like ages ago since we first arrived here, with snow blanketing the village and the thin air burning our lungs. Now the fields surrounding town are turning green and the stairways feel far less daunting. It is great to be back in Namche after so much time up high and we all enjoyed the hot showers and great food. Tomorrow we return to Lukla, descending further down the valley. We are looking forward to the final leg of the trek and will check in tomorrow evening from Lukla. RMI Guide Linden Mallory

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

I am glad you are heading down safe and sound. A shower never felt so good, huh? When you get to Lukla, I will start praying for a safe and uneventful flight to Timbucktu, I mean Katmandu! I’m so funny! Looking so forward to the circle of your loving arms! I love you!

Posted by: Deb McLaughlin on 4/10/2011 at 3:19 pm

The trip down must have been long but look what you saw when you got down with the plants ets. Good going but am sure you were tired. Much love Mom

Posted by: Cornelia Miller on 4/10/2011 at 11:46 am

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Kilimanjaro: Team Summits with 100%

September 23, 2012

Posted by: Casey Grom

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Kilimanjaro

Elevation: 19,340'

RMI Guide Casey Grom checked in via satellite phone on Saturday night, September 22 at 10:01 p.m. PT from the summit of Kilimanjaro, The Roof of Africa. Casey was very happy to report that all team members had reached the summit it was a perfect day, sunny and beautiful. "It is a fantastic day up here" Casey said. After spending some time enjoying the views the team will descend to the 10,000' Mweka Camp for their last night on the mountain. Congratulations to Casey Grom and all of the Kilimanjaro September 15th team members!

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Most Popular Entries

Aconcagua Expedition: The Team Back from a Successful Carry to Camp 2

Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team - High Hopes, Low Camps

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Dhaulagiri: Elias & Team Check in from Their Approach to Dhaulagiri

Mt. Rainier: July 27th Summit!

Fisher Chimneys: August 8th Summit!

Denali Expedition: Smith & Team Carry Gear Above 14,000’ Camp

Mt. McKinley: Haugen’s Team Moves to 9,600’ Camp

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Everest Base Camp Trek: Linden and Team Summit Island Peak!

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Everest Base Camp Trek & Island Peak Climb: Return to Namche

Kilimanjaro: Team Summits with 100%

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