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Vinson Massif: Carry High, Sleep Low

We made pretty good use out of today. The weather wasn't perfect, it still seems like the long, slow storm is lingering, but it wasn't all that bad either. There was still a ton of cloud hanging around when we got out of the tents at Low Camp this morning. We'd done the traditional sleep in until 11 AM so as to avoid the cold cold Vinson shadow that haunts Low Camp, but the surprise turned out to be that it really wasn't all that cold. The clouds had kept some heat in for us. Everybody was feeling good and well-rested, so we grabbed some supplies, shoved them in our packs and headed for high camp. The goal was to do a carry, to bring food up for our eventual move to high camp. But moving that food up wasn't nearly as important as getting everyone familiar with the climbing route and getting in some good exercise at altitude. We did all of that. The "meat" of the day was toiling for about three hours on the steep and continuous "fixed rope" section of the hill. By the top of the ropes, the weather had taken a slight turn for the worse, with a slight, but persistent breeze blowing new falling snow, We carried on the extra hour and a half to high camp anyway, since it seemed we were getting such good experience in and everyone was climbing strong. We were up to high camp by about 7:25 PM, meaning we were spot on the expected six hours. We just took a few minutes to cache the gear and food and then we were off down the hill. We got warmer as we descended and made pretty good time with light packs. It was 9 PM when we reached the base of the ropes and just another fifteen minutes or so brought us into camp. The sun came out while we were eating dinner and getting ready for bed, making all of that just a little bit easier. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team - Good Style to the Top and Back

Today was our time to shine; it was our 16th day on the glaciers of Denali and our opportunity to take a shot at the top of North America. Early sun on the tent at high camp, coupled with the solstice less than a week away had the guides up starting the stoves by 7:30am. With the winds moderate and temps near -15F we stalled our departure for the summit bid until 9:45am with the thought of summiting during Alaska's peak heat of late afternoon. The wind and cold had us in full equipment. We wore face masks, goggles, mittens and climbed in our heavy weight parkas a good portion of the climb. The guides stressed many times of the importance of self care and the critical nature of getting frostnip or frostbite. All of us had cold hands, feet, and faces a number of times throughout the day, but all of us took responsibility for keeping close eyes on each other and managed to keep the cold injuries at bay. The climb took our team 7 1/2 hours to reach the summit. Our time plan was perfect as the summit provided some the the lightest winds of the day allowing us to spend just over thirty minutes on the summit expressing emotion, embracing our team mates, and snapping photos of an unforgettable 360 degree view of central Alaska. Given the conditions our team made great time, though we all had to dig deep in our reserves to make an uneventful descent back in our high camp- 11 hours after our departure. Hot drinks, a warm meal and memories from our summit push ended the evening with high stoke and excitement to get down and reunite with our friend, families and loved ones. Every member of the team would like to thank all of you for your support, love, and compassion in letting us fulfill a dream. Tomorrow we plan to disassemble our high camp and move down the picturesque West Buttress. We will be recovering our cache at 14k and, if weather and energy allow, a descent to 11k for a well deserved rest in what now has become the low country. We look forward to the thick air. RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Eric Frank & Logan Randolph

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Congratulations Team!!!  i know it must feel terrific to view 360 degrees from the summit!  Can’t imagine the rush!  Michael, we look forward to hearing all about it.  Mom & Dad

Posted by: Eual/Paula Conditt on 6/17/2012 at 4:45 pm

I am super psyched for you guys.  You kick ass Larry!

Posted by: Justin Halls on 6/17/2012 at 12:00 pm


Mt. Everest Expedition: Team readies for next rotation

Hello, It is a beautiful day at Everest Base Camp. The climbing team and I did a nice glacier walk out from Base Camp. Just enough to stretch the legs and stop at the internet cafe en-route. There has been lots of packing and loads distributed to the Sherpa team who will help carry gear up to Camp 2 tomorrow. The rest days here at Base Camp have been good for the climbing team members and it looks like tomorrow they will begin their next rotation up high. We had two members of our Sherpa Team, Lam Babu and Yubaraju, that spent last night at Camp 2. They reported that everything is ready for the climbing team to inhabit this upper camp. So, our plan is a 3:30 am breakfast, with requests of eggs, rice porridge, cold cereal and some hot drinks. The team should then be walking out of camp at 4:00 am headed for Camp 2. We are hoping for good weather and for everyone in the team to feel strong as they climb higher tomorrow. We will keep you posted. RMI Guide Mark Tucker

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Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Enjoy a Rest Day

A rest day! Yay! We did such amazing things as sleeping in, more turbo tanning, sport eating, walking out to the Edge of the World, more sport eating, fixed line practice, and packing for tomorrow's carry up the fixed lines. Per the norm, the team is in good spirits but perhaps a bit anxious for tomorrow. The weather is supposed to be in and out for the extended forecast so we are planning to stick to our schedule until we are forced to wait. Hoping for a great day tomorrow, once we get this cache in we will be on standby for good weather and hopefully pulling the trigger on our move to high camp and subsequent summit push... RMI Guide Billy Nugent and friends

On The Map

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Hello GRD from AOMS in Tucson Arizona. We are thinking of you and tracking your progress. Your almost to the top!!! WooHoo!!! Looking forward to the Summit pictures, stories and your safe return!
Enjoy every moment!!! :)

Posted by: Robin Alexander on 5/29/2012 at 9:22 am

Hi Donny.  We are so proud of you.  The whole family in St Louis is following your team’s progress.  Uncle Jim

Posted by: Jim on 5/29/2012 at 5:40 am


Denali Expedition: Smith & Team Fly from Basecamp, Return to Talkeetna

Hello readers,

What a day, what a day. We woke again to snow and all you can see, white. The forecast didn't call for all this snow and white but it's what we got for 36 hours straight. Hope wasn't lost and the team enjoyed a group activity of stomping out the runway. It didn't look like we would fly but we would at least be ready for those planes. The hours went by and no change. Surely we would spend another night at basecamp...then all of a sudden the clouds started to lift. There was a bustle around camp...planes were coming. The team having done a few false alarm pack ups was dialed. In less than 30 minutes we were fully packed up waiting next to the airstrip for our plane. It is a whirlwind experience to be one second in your sleeping bag on the mountain and the next loading a plane to take you off. In no time we were back in civilization, stinky, tired, and a few shades darker from the sun. A long shower, a hot meal not cooked over the XKG stoves, and a mattress you don't have to blow up later, we are new people. It's been an amazing trip full of ups and downs and always lessons learned about ourselves. We are grateful to be back safe and already look forward to our next adventures. 

Thanks for following along! Till next time,

RMI Guides Hannah, Devin, Erika, and Team

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Thank you for helping to keep molly and the rest of the team safe.  She had nothing but glowing praise for all of you. Very much appreciated!!!  It sounded like a great adventure.
Thanks again!!!!

Posted by: Todd Wardwell on 6/5/2023 at 2:51 pm


Kilimanjaro: Hahn & Team Get Ready for the Mountain

Today was an easy day of getting packed and ready for the mountain.  We began with an after breakfast meeting outside under the big trees while monkeys jumped from branch to branch above us.  We discussed the plan for our climb and talked about how the gear needed to be ordered and arranged for starting out.  Then we conducted equipment checks back in the rooms to help folks decide what to leave in and what to take out.  There was then plenty of time in the afternoon for packing, napping away the jet lag, walking the peaceful grounds of the hotel, and eating.  We got together for a team dinner at 7 PM to cap things off.  Everything is set to go now, we’ll head for Mount Kilimanjaro in the morning. 

Best Regards

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Yay! Sounds like another great day. That is some giant heather! And I can almost imagine the beauty of the night sky you are seeing. May your next day be smooth and wonderful. Cheering you on, Kim ~ and all you amazing folks!

Posted by: Kathryn Jaliman on 8/17/2022 at 7:07 pm

Wow!  You are all off to a great start! I’m so excited to be reading of this epic adventure. Just know I’m cheering you all on from that US. Best wishes in your first day of climbing. Kim and Bella you’ve got this!!! Hugs!!

Posted by: Pam on 8/16/2022 at 6:24 am


Denali Expedition: Hahn and Team Move to 17,000’ Camp

Friday July 1, 2022  11:25pm PDT

We were repetitive today.  “What a gorgeous day” was heard over and over.  We were out of our sleeping bags and firing the stoves at 7 AM and … as usual… it was calm and clear and perfect at 14,000 ft.  A little cool in the shadows, but by the time we’d eaten breakfast and done another big gear sort, it was 9:50 and the sun was coming on strong.  We headed up the now-familiar terrain leading to the fixed ropes and the crest of Denali’s West Buttress.  The work was certainly hard, carrying big packs on steep snow, ice, and rock at high altitude, but the scenery was magnificent.  It was even more magnificent once we loaded up the supplies from our cache at 16,600 and pushed on to new ground.  It was a thrill to walk along the ridge crest, balancing between the big drop down to Genet Basin on one side and the Peters Glacier on the other.  We rolled into 17,200 ft at about 4 PM in calm and sunny conditions and began to build our high camp. 

The decision was made, over dinner in our rather compact high camp dining tent, to take a rest day tomorrow (Saturday) and to focus on a summit bid Sunday.  Conditions look good for Saturday, according to the forecast, but even better for Sunday and we’d like everybody to have their best shot at the top after so much hard work. 

Best Regards,

RMI Guide Dave Hahn & Team

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On on everyone!  You’ve all worked SO hard.  You are ALL amazing!  MASSIVE GOOD LUCK guys n gals!

Posted by: Margaret Nolan on 7/2/2022 at 9:23 am

So proud of everyone and with you in spirit!!  You can do this!!!  Cheering you all on!!!  Go, Jim, go!!!!

Posted by: Deborah Karmozyn on 7/2/2022 at 8:49 am


Kilimanjaro: Team Climbs the Barranco Wall

Hello everyone,

Right out of camp we were faced with the only significant technical obstacle for this climb. This hurdle is the great Barranco Wall, which rises about 1000ft and looks as intimidating as it sounds. Thankfully, there is a nice narrow trail that weaves its way up and through the wall and all the way to the top. Most of it feels more like steep hiking, but there are a few places that require the use of our hands to help us climb up.

The team did an excellent job of moving steady and allowing a few porters through with their loads precariously balanced on their heads. Which was astonishing to see!

After reaching the top we took a nice break and enjoyed the amazing views of the ice ladened south face and valleys below. The team continued our hike for a few more hours up and down through a few valleys before reaching today endpoint.

All in all, it took only about 4 hours for us to reach our next camp called Karanga, named for the big and beautiful valley which it overlooks.


RMI Guide Casey Grom and Crew

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Aconcagua: Liken & Team in Position for Summit Bid

Hola Blogerinos! Here we are at long last, poised to make our summit bid from Camp Cholera at 19,600 feet on Aconcagua. The team moved up here today in good style, whipped together a camp, and spent the afternoon recharging in anticipation of a big day tomorrow. It's snowing lightly outside right now, but all team members are tucked away trying their best to get a little rest. Keep us in your thoughts tomorrow as we try for the top! RMI Guide Ben Liken

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Vinson Massif: The Team Moves to Camp One in Good Weather

Weather forecasts that were passed in to us from Union Glacier suggested that things wouldn't be so great today. But then the forecasts changed. It was a fine and calm day with plenty of sun and blue sky. We packed up our basecamp and at about 12:30 PM, we began marching up the Branscomb. The going was slightly easier today as the track in the snow is getting packed down a bit better. We collected our cached food and gear from yesterday and then made the big northward turn with the glacier. This put us directly under Vinson's great western escarpment and it was a thrill to look up at 2000 vertical meters of rock and precariously perched ice. A few hours of easier going on a firm surface brought us to Vinson's low camp at a little before 7 PM. It was very comfortable in the sunshine but the slightest breeze or a small cloud putting us in shadow made everyone acutely aware of what the actual temperature was. The forecast that called for good weather today pegged the summit temp at -36 degrees. We got tents up and the kitchen going and had dinner sitting outside, surrounded by giant and jagged mountains. After dinner a few of us got a quarry of snow blocks going and built some walls for the camp... Just in case the weather changes, as usual. It is now around 30 minutes after midnight and the sun is blazing away on the tents. The sun won't set, but around 3 AM when it goes behind the mountain, we will know it. At this camp, we won't expect to see or feel it again until noon. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn
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Happy Thanksgiving to all! We are hoping you have great weather. Keep warm.
Regards,
F/W Group in St Louis

Posted by: F/W Group on 11/23/2011 at 10:38 am

I just turned up the thermostat another 5 degrees after reading this post.

Mark - hope you’re carrying your little stuffed moo-cow with you. I find it galling that its been to more summits than me.

Posted by: Madhu Rao on 11/23/2011 at 7:43 am

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