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RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier and the Mt. Baker - Easton Team July 17 - 19 reached the summit of Mt. Baker on Monday.  They reported clouds at camp and below 7,000' but otherwise a nice day on the mountain.  The team returned to camp in the afternoon and will walk out to the trailhead today.

Way to go team!

Our preparations for high altitude complete, the team awoke a few minutes after midnight on Monday morning for our summit bid on Cayambe. The sky was cloudy, but calm- a hopeful sign given the hail and rain the afternoon prior. The first hour of climbing found us negotiating a long rocky stretch in big mountain boots. We transitioned to snowy slopes and the group moved steadily uphill in high spirits as the clouds gave way to a clear and starry night. At a break at ~17k, we caught the sunrise, as well as a glimpse of three climbers high up on the mountain. Several of us were amazed at the steepness of the slope they were ascending, only to discover shortly thereafter that that would be our route, as well! However, our group was more than up to the task, and everyone summitted after 7.5 hours en route. The weather on top was flawless(!), so we lounged around and took hero shots for an hour before heading down. The steep section was just as exciting on the descent, but the remainder of the route was easily accomplished by our crew. After arriving at the refugio, we quickly packed up our gear and hightailed it down the mountain to get to some food! Unfortunately, hightailing it only works so well when you have 36k of rough road and 6000' to descend! After eating, everyone was looking forward to seeing our lodging at Chilcabama. However, the travel gods felt differently, and the expected transit time stretched out longer and longer, as first rain (on our duffels on top of the van), then traffic, the construction, and finally dark, unmarked roads had their way with us. Finally, we arrived to Chilcabama, where hot showers, freshly-made soup, and fires in our in-room fireplaces awaited us. It was the perfect end to a very long day. Pictures to come pending wifi access! RMI Guides Billy Nugent, Katie Bono and Team

On The Map

Another day at 14,200 ft on Denali... waiting for the sun. For as ominous as things appeared when we turned in last night, things stayed relatively calm through morning. We enjoyed a few hours of sunshine and the team made good use by cutting snow blocks and fortifying our dining tent. Meanwhile, a couple of guides from each of three different teams (and three different guide companies) made forays onto the first hill en route to the fixed ropes. Each made assessments of the snowpack independently, but then we compared notes and found all were in agreement... there were positive signs that stabilizing processes were ongoing, but these were still definitely outweighed by the signs that unstable conditions prevailed. Too much chance of avalanche. No climbing the West Buttress today. Back together at 14 camp, Tim Hardin gave our assembled team a great lesson in snow science, explaining how a pit dug in suspect snow could reveal plenty about the layers within the pack and their ability to hold to one another... or slide. The day turned cloudy as usual and light snow fell again. There was some letup at dinner and we enjoyed views of the wind-sculpted cloud caps on Denali, Foraker and Hunter. We were each challenged again to stay tough, patient and focused as we said goodbye to three more of the guided groups we've shared the hill with. This once bustling and eager climbing camp is down to three guided teams and one small independent team. We're still getting good forecasts for the days ahead- of cloud and snow and more cloud, we are just hoping they turn out to be wrong. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

There is no better way to start a day than sleeping in. After some long days of climbing, we have earned it. This morning we slept late, had breakfast burritos and started the work day at a leisurely 11am. While 23.5 hours of sunlight a day is a bit disorienting at first, hard work has been a great sleeping aid for the team. Our crew is getting stronger every day. After our leisurely morning, we completed a back carry from 10,000' with no problems. We now sit at our 11,000' home, hiding from the beating radiation and gorging ourselves on goodie bags of food we recovered from our cache this morning. This afternoon we plan to meticulously re-pack the kit for a cache at 14,000' camp. We look forward to caching and moving up in the next few days, if weather allows. Thank you to all for your comments and words of encouragement. RMI Guide Tyler Jones

On The Map

Greetings from our rest day here at Plaza Argentina. After a lazy morning lounging in our tents we convened in our weather port for a terrific brunch of bacon, eggs, and of course REAL coffee. Most of us felt a bit ragged from our first night at nearly 14,000' but after a solid meal everyone seems to have bounced back and they're all enjoying another beautiful day reading, playing cards, and the like. Leon and I are spending the afternoon drinking mate and packing up our supplies for tomorrow's carry up to Camp 1. Adios, RMI Guide Billy Nugent

On The Map

Thursday, May 19, 2022 -  10:57pm PT

It was a perfect day to switch from lower glacier load hauling to actually climbing. The weather was clear and calm in the morning, so we pumped through a bagel breakfast, grabbed loads of food and fuel, and set our sights on motorcycle hill. Many teams cache at 13,5k just past windy corner, but we had our sights set on 14. The first several hours were pleasant. Sunny, but with just enough air moving to keep us comfortable. Rounding windy corner, there wasn't a breath of wind. The sauna turned on and we all had mild cases of heat panic. We cruised on into 14,000’ camp and got to say hi to Mike Walter and team, who were kind enough to top off some water bottles. With our goal secured, we turned and beat feet back to camp.

It was a solid day out and hard work, so we will reward ourselves with the first proper rest day of the trip tomorrow.

RMI Guides Pete, Leif, Erika, and Team

The Four Day Climb, September 27 - 30, enjoyed a beautiful sunrise this morning on Mt. Rainier. Weather conditions and new snow on the route prevented them from reaching the summit today, however, they did ascend to Ingraham Flats to check out the views. The group has descended from Camp Muir and will return to Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon. This is our final program for the 2019 Mt. Rainier season. Thank you for following along with our climbs!

June 10, 2017 7:46 pm PST Today we may very well have nailed it. Waking early for an extended weather viewing to establish any discernible trend, we left camp with reasonable visibility. The team did great as we broke trail up to the base of the fixed lines. We rested at the base of the lines as the weather slowly deteriorated and our friends from RMI 4 joined us in solidarity on a fitness walk. Once we were a big party and the cache was established, we descended back to 14 Camp for some rest before dinner. The winds and snow picked up nearly as soon as we got home and we are now poised to go to 17K once the weather allows. It has been pretty squirrelly in the weather department lately, but the team is hanging tough, waiting for our time to shine. RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

This is the June 19th Denali expedition sending love from 14,000 foot camp. We received a foot of fresh snow last night distracting us from our scheduled plan of carrying loads to the top of the fixed lines at 16,200 feet. Because of this unexpected delay we are resting today fending off climbers soliciting food to lighten their loads for the descent. We have decided to pass the phone to let each team member send a personal hey to friends and family. This one goes out to my wife Birgen and son Liam. I have only tried to spoon Uchal twice thinking of you. He elbowed me both times. I miss you as much as ever and can' t wait to get home to you both..... DG here. Miss and love you all. Doing great up here and everything is rock steady. Hugs Oz and see you soon. Can't wait for you to join me. It's Chris. Special thanks to all of you who posted messages and words of encouragement on the blog. It means a lot and gives me some extra fuel for the push up the peak. Nickie - I love you so much and can't wait to see you again after a successful trip. Cheers! This is Michael U. I hope all is well back home and abroad! I miss and love you all so much. O Sorry for leaving you to care for the new K-9. Grace, HB, Samer, Charlotte, Lulu, and the rest of the family - I can't wait to see you when I get home. Greetings from JJ, amazing group of guys, amazing mounting and truly an experience of a lifetime to be here. Priorities change when life is stripped to the essentials. Peace, joy and love of friends and family take in a new and heightened priority. Please know I am very safe and that my love for you is growing with each step. I miss you all and have many big hugs in store for all upon my return, especially the new love of my life. See you at the wedding if not sooner. Love, John Hello fam & friends--Tim here. It's hard to explain what the top of our continent looks like--truly amazing! Thx for all of your posts, luv sharing them in the "posh" (a funky community eating/gathering area). Great guides & climbing team, we're all looking up at the top now. Love & miss you all--literally dreaming of you nightly--altitude makes for some strange dreams BTW. Thx for covering me during cherry harvest & all the other "stuff." See you in a couple of weeks!!!

On The Map

Sunday, August 11, 2024 - 6:00 AM PT

We said goodbye to the Condoriri mountain range, and loaded our van to head to our second mountain Huayna Potosi which stands just over 6,000 meters. We arrived at our base hut, which is actually Adriam and Domilita house that they open up to climbers. Adriam is our head porter and we leisurely packed our packs and gear for our journey up to high hut (17,000’) where will spend a little bit of time before heading for the summit.  From their house we have amazing views of the route we’ll be climbing up Huayna. As the sun began to set the winds starting cranking and we were happy to be inside than out in the tents.  Adriam built us a fire and we enjoyed a big family dinner that included a cake for Katherine’s birthday. We awoke this morning to sunny skies and calm winds. We’ll be heading to high camp in the coming hours. We’ll take a short rest before starting our summit attempt early in the morning.  Fingers crossed that the winds co-operate for us!

RMI Guide Andy Bond