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Alaska Seminar: Waiting for a Weather Window

There was about two feet of new snow last night at Kahiltna Base Camp. It is currently snowing and visibility is low. We are in standby mode and playing cards with our one set of 48 cards. It turns out the little snow storm from yesterday is lasting into today. We are waiting for some clear weather and our flight off the glacier. The thunderous vibrations of avalanches somewhere off into the thick clouds are pretty cool canceling out the wind and the snow battering the tent. Everyone has had a great time, but most are ready for some beers. Signing out from the land of positive vibrations. RMI Guide Jason Thompson

On The Map

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Kilimanjaro: Martin & Team Reach Karanaga Valley Camp

Jambo from Karanga Camp, The great weather continues and we woke up to another cloudless day on Kilimanjaro. Barranco Camp can be a little cold in the morning so we decided to sleep in an extra 1/2 hour to make sure that the sun was hitting our camp by breakfast time. We all slept well and were excited to start climbing the Barranco Wall. You would guess from most people's description of the Barranco Wall that it is a vertical climb of almost 800 feet. Fortunately, this is not the case and it definitely proved to be a highlight of the trip for everyone. Bibiana dedicated this section to Gabriel. This is the shortest day of hiking on our trip, and once we reached the top of the Barranco Wall, we continued traversing below the south face of Kilimanjaro. The Heim, Kersten, and Decken glaciers were glistening in the sun above us as we approached Karanga Camp. We had a big pasta lunch waiting for us as we walked into camp. After lunch, we spent the rest of the afternoon enjoying our new camp. Tomorrow we make our move to Barafu Camp, our highest camp on the mountain. We will then be in position to make our summit attempt the following day. We will check in tomorrow from 15,200 feet. - The Kili Team (July 25 - 8 August, 2011)
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Hello Team Kili

Congratulations on all that you have accomplished thus far. You should all be very proud of yourselves. You are truly on an adventure of a life time. If even just half of what Sarah has told me is true I have no doubt your summit attempt will be successful. I hear you have an outstanding team and the best dam guide in all of Africa!!! Good luck team. Go with a clear mind and a strong heart.


To Sarah aka (THE HONEY BADGER)

Sarah you are the most extraordinary, beautiful, strong, intelligent and determined person I have ever had the pleasure and honor of knowing. Words can not even begin to describe how proud I am of you. I love you with every fiber of my heart. I am the luckiest guy in the world.  I’m really starting to doubt you’re so called time line. I might need to speed that up a bit. Take care of your dad…. I hope you haven’t had to pull out the short rope yet….Only kidding Mr. Griner. I know that as long as he has breath in his lungs Rusty Griner will be on the roof of Africa smiling down. Go get it Dick Bass…  I am so fortunate and blessed to have you both in my life.  I look forward to some amazing pictures and incredible stories…..

-Sean

Posted by: Sean on 8/1/2011 at 12:51 am

So the Barranco wall was a highlight and not an obstacle? You are all definitely in the right frame of mind. Glaciers, I cant wait for those photos Rusty. 15,000ft…...Oh Yeah. I,m sure the rush from the beauty of the mountain alone is energy to push forward. Stay strong, stay happy. Good luck everybody. Once in a lifetime Rusty and Sara.
Gummi Worm Man

Posted by: Gummi Worm Man on 7/31/2011 at 1:11 pm


Mt. Rainier: Smith, Wittmier & Four Day Teams Reach the summit

The July 24 - 27 Four Day Climb teams reached the summit of Mt. Rainier around 6:30 am today led by RMI Guides Hannah Smith and Dustin Wittmier. Hannah reported good route conditions and perfect weather.  The team enjoyed some time on top, crossing the crater to Columbia Crest.  They began their descent from the crater rim just before 8 am.  The teams will return to Camp Muir for a quick stop before continuing down to Paradise later this afternoon.

Nice work team!  Congratulations on reaching the summit!

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Mongolia: Frank & Team Travel Through the Tsagaan Gol Valley

There is nothing more fundamentally Mongolian then riding a horse. Today we got to try our hands at the national mode of travel as we exited our base camp via the Tsagaan Gol Valley on horseback. Five hours of trotting, cantering and the occasional gallop alongside a beautiful river brought us to a small ger camp in the base of the valley. In the States we call them yurts, but here in Mongolia the round semi-permanent tents made of felt are called gers. Each summer, when the nomadic people of the area move their herds- thousands of sheep, goats, yaks, horses and camels- to the upper valleys to feast on green grass, they set up small ger camps and live out in the open. Tonight part of the team is staying in tents and part of the team have elected to join our hosts in their ger for the night. Even though they don't know us and we don't share any common language, these kind people have welcomed us into their home and made us comfortable in every way possible. Despite the fact this might be highly unusual at home, this is quite normal in Mongolia and another reason to love the hospitality of this culture. RMI Guide Eric Frank and team
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Mt. Rainier: June 18, 2013 Summit!

RMI Guides Seth Waterfall and Zeb Blais reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today with their Four Day Summit Climb Teams. The team had clear skies, light winds and climbed above the clouds that lingered around 8,000'. The spent some time enjoying the views on top and making their way back to Camp Muir. The Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons team led by JJ Justman also reached the summit via the Emmons Route this morning. The team will make their way back to Camp Schurmann and finish out their the week training in various mountaineering techniques with hopes of reaching the summits of many more mountains. Congratulations to today's teams!
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Congratulations to the guys from Troop 444! And Sam Glass from Troop 895 of course.
Awesome job!

Posted by: Mello Elout on 6/19/2013 at 9:59 am

Attawaytogo Troop 444, Jay and Jerome!  Thanks to the guides for a safe trek. Have a safe trip down.

Posted by: Suzy Arnold on 6/18/2013 at 4:39 pm


Mt. Everest:  Preparations Underway for Last Rotation

Cinco de Mayo and we are here with some nachos. No Margaritas, that will be later. Perfect weather, another beautiful day. Lots of prep work for the upcoming rotation. We took out the oxygen masks and regulators. They may use them if a night at Camp 3 becomes available. So important to double check the equipment before sending it up the hill. Our whole Sherpa team will start out early in the AM for Camp 2 and stay up there until Camp 3 is built and loads are in place at Camp 4. The Sherpa team is such a great group of men, we cannot thank them enough for all their help. The climbing team will rest one more day, then head up for the final rotation before the summit push. Dave and Seth have been doing fine work of all the details, what a couple of super guides we have leading this Expedition. A big shout out to Karla, Happy B-Day! Mt. Everest Basecamp Manager Mark Tucker

On The Map

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Hello Dave : We meet at base camp about 3 wks ago. I was on a 3wk trekking & climbing trip. It was the adventure of a life time . I had many high lights of the trip , right at the top was getting to meet you and talk a little about mountaineering. I’m thankful for the time you spent with me . Good luck on the climb with your team , be safe & may God bless you and your team !!!  Now go get #15.  Grant

Posted by: Grant phelps on 5/8/2013 at 7:38 am

Collaborative efforts from all team members and Sherpas can only mean success!!!!  The best of luck to all of you on the summit push.  Looking forward to pictures of your successful ascent.  Blessings your way. 

ABQ Uptown #985 NM/CO/AZ

Posted by: Rachael C. Lujan on 5/6/2013 at 7:24 am


Alaska Seminar: Great Day for Training

Once again we woke to a beautiful morning today at the base of Mt. McKinley. Our day has been filled with technical information. We have thoroughly covered rappelling, fixed line travel, self extrication from a crevasse, and reviewed our knots and anchor systems. We will continue to put these skills to good use when we implement them into crevasse rescue scenarios. The planes have been buzzing around basecamp today dropping climbers on the glacier. The climbing season is getting underway here in the Alaskan Range. It is super fun to be right in the middle of it all. Until next time. The Alaskan Seminar is signing off. RMI Guide Jason Thompson
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Brady…Greetings to you as you gather all of this valuable information..Hope you are having fun and learning how to extricate yourself from crevasses!!!  Love you, miss you, look forward to your return!!! 
love, Mom &Dad;

Posted by: Nancy O'Mara on 5/7/2012 at 8:14 pm


Everest Base Camp Trek: Tucker and Team Enjoying a Rest Day

Hello! I finally get another chance to get a word or two in. Today was a rest day and we tried to do just that. . . rest as much as we could. We did a short hike in the morning that took us to the ridge line above us. There we could see three of the 8,000 meter peaks: Makalu, Cho Oyo, and Lotse. We also saw our first glimpse of Island Peak. It looks very steep, high, and cold. Our hike took us to 14,500ft, which is higher than any peak in the continental United States. So, it was an exciting moment for us. Later in the day we attended an information session presented by the Himalayan rescue association on the effects of altitude on the body. Besides learning about AMS (Acute Mountain Sickness), HACE (High Altitude Cerebral Edema) and HAPE (High Altitude Pulmonary Edema), we learned about HAFE (High Altitude Flatulence Expulsion). The latter one is very real to us as John has been suffering from it for days. Actually, I have been doing the suffering since I have been walking behind him on the trail. John claims the food is to blame for his HAFE. So, I will share a bit about our eating experiences thus far. The tea-houses offer a similar menu for the most part. For lunch or dinner, the typical choices are some sort of rice (fried, steamed, or curry), some sort of noodles ( fried or with a tomato sauce), some sort of potatoes (boiled or fried), soup, or dal baht. Dal baht is a Nepalese meal of rice and a sort of lentil soup that is poured over the rice. It appears that the Sherpas traveling with us eat dal baht at every meal. Occasionally, the tea-house will have chicken. When that is the case, we order a special treat called chicken chile. It is a spicy chicken dish that is delicious. All of the food is very good, but the menu lacks diversity. The dessert is especially interesting and I have come to like it very much. They offer Snickers or Mars pie, which is just a deep fried Snickers or Mars (Milky Way) candy bar. Sometimes they also have a deep-fried Bounty (Mounds), which is my favorite. Mmmm, delicious. --Kim P.S. A big shout-out to Mrs. Hartman's 3-5 classroom.

On The Map

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Hello from Mrs. Hartman’s class!!  We miss you but are excited to read your blog!!  How high is Island Peak?  Ranish wants to know if you like the curry.  Are you staying warm?  Are you having fun or wish you were back home?  Is it really snowy where you are now or is there ice there?  Are the yaks carrying your bag?  Have you been wearing your harness or using your ice axe yet?  Please keep us posted about how you are doing.  We think your pictures are awesome!    Are you staying well?  We are thinking of you!  Love, Mrs. Hartman’s class

Posted by: Lori Hartman's class on 3/28/2012 at 2:40 pm

Hello from Ms. Jerome’s 4/5 science class. WE miss you Ms. C. We have some questions for you.
How high are you? How are you feeling?
Which is higher Everest Base Camp or Island Peak?
How many tea house have you been too? What is your favorite dish to eat for dinner and lunch?
WE think you totally rock! Keep going!
Over and out! Ms. Jerome’s 4/5 class. xoxoxo

Posted by: Pam on 3/28/2012 at 11:38 am


Denali Expedition: Smith & Team Make Difficult Decision to Descend

Wednesday, May 31, 2023 - 10:50 pm PT

Hello trusty readers,

Sorry for the gap in dispatches. Things got a little busy with logistics. We took two rest days at 14,000' Camp figuring out weather and logistics on who wanted to continue up and who wanted to go down. With weather being finicky most of the team decided to focus on getting off the mountain. For those that desired uphill movement it was the weather we needed to figure out. After many ominous forecast with only small windows of calm we decided our best option was to stay together as a team and make our way down the mountain. Its always a hard decision to go down, especially when you still have time. But sometimes, the cards just aren't in your favor. It's been a great trip even without the summit. We have made it back to 11,000' Camp and are taking a quick nap before we make our way to the airstrip. Tomorrow is suppose to be the best weather day so figures crossed we make it off the glacier.

Goodnight all,

RMI Guides Hannah, Devin, Erika, and Team

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Hey Hannah and Team,
That is a bummer but like you have always said, “its about the experience!”

Posted by: Dave Kestel on 6/2/2023 at 4:01 am

To go as far as all the teams went is to say they made it to the top…like many who expressed…thank you for your wisdom in playing it safe. So impressed. Bethany ...you did a spectacular display of strength and determination and so many have expressed how inspired they are of your accomplishments. Looking forward to hearing details.
Love M❤M

Posted by: Jan L. Gray on 6/1/2023 at 2:25 pm


Denali Expedition: Van Deventer and Team Cache Gear at 14,000’

Thursday, May 19, 2022 -  10:57pm PT

It was a perfect day to switch from lower glacier load hauling to actually climbing. The weather was clear and calm in the morning, so we pumped through a bagel breakfast, grabbed loads of food and fuel, and set our sights on motorcycle hill. Many teams cache at 13,5k just past windy corner, but we had our sights set on 14. The first several hours were pleasant. Sunny, but with just enough air moving to keep us comfortable. Rounding windy corner, there wasn't a breath of wind. The sauna turned on and we all had mild cases of heat panic. We cruised on into 14,000’ camp and got to say hi to Mike Walter and team, who were kind enough to top off some water bottles. With our goal secured, we turned and beat feet back to camp.

It was a solid day out and hard work, so we will reward ourselves with the first proper rest day of the trip tomorrow.

RMI Guides Pete, Leif, Erika, and Team

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