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Aconcagua: Justman & Team Back at Base Camp

December 18, 2012

Posted by: JJ Justman, Geoff Schellens

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua

Elevation: 13,800'

Hi All, RMI Aconcagua team one here in Base Camp watching the torrent on the upper mountain as we pack and organize gear for the mules. After soup and snacks we moved on to sports and movie trivia with some of our German climbing friends. Although we are all disappointed to be leaving the mountain with out a summit, the foul weather and thoughts of steak and wine are reassuring. We will start our hike out tomorrow and get back to Mendoza on Thursday the 20th. Thank you all for all the support and we look forward to talking to all our friends and family soon. RMI Guides JJ Justman, Geoff Schellens & Team

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Summit!

May 24, 2010

Posted by:

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest

Elevation: Top of the world

Descent

May 24, 2010 - 8:15 p.m. PST / 9:00 a.m. UTC 29,035 ft. Mark Tucker at Basecamp: Weather still okay as the team makes good progress on the descent. Still a couple days of hard work ahead for the climbers, and huge days for the Sherpa team to break down the camps. Not till our last load comes out of the icefall, will this team waiver from the techniques and attitude that has brought us great success on this expedition. It's been a lot a fun sharing our story with all of you. I will continue to keep you updated as news comes in. Thanks for all the support back home. All the best, Rainier Mountaineering Everest Team 2010

Party on TOP!

May 24, 2010 - 6:55 p.m. PST / 7:40 a.m. UTC 29,035 ft. Mark Tucker at Basecamp: Congratulations to the RMI Team! Dave, Leif, Seth, Casey, Michael, Scott, Tendi, Tshering Dorjee, Dawa Jamba, Da Gyldjen, Nima Tenji, Pasang Temba. On top of the world. All are doing well. A few quick pictures, a look around, then they'll start heading down!

First of RMI Team Arrives at Summit!

May 24, 2010 - 6:08 p.m. PST / 6:53 a.m. UTC 29,035 ft. Mark Tucker at Basecamp: Seth Waterfall is on the summit of Mount Everest. He has the summit all to himself. It is a bit chilly but he has plenty of oxygen and is feeling good! The rest of the team is at the Hilary step continuing up.

South Summit!

May 24, 2010 - 5:38 p.m. PST / 6:23 a.m. UTC 28,700+ ft. Mark Tucker at Basecamp: Just spoke with Dave via radio he and all others are on the South Summit changing O2 bottles. Some high level clouds keeping it cool so Seth had to get on the move or risk getting too cold, he is now on the Hilary step! Dave reports everyone in good shape.

Almost to South Summit

May 24, 2010 - 4:05 p.m. PST / 5:20 a.m. UTC 26,000 ft. Mark Tucker at Basecamp: Just received a radio call from Seth reporting he is approximately 10 minutes below South Summit. Dave and crew are just a bit behind. Little wind, some high clouds in and out, but overall great conditions.

At the Balcony

May 24, 2010 - 2:11 p.m. PST / 2:56 a.m. UTC 26,000 ft. Mark Tucker at Basecamp: All teams are at the Balcony changing oxygen bottles. The weather report remains calm winds and clear skies. The next check-in should be in approximately 2 - 3 hours, the South Summit, where I should be able to speak with the team directly.

Going For It!

May 24, 2010 - 9:30 a.m. PST / 10:15 p.m. UTC 26,000 ft. We have not been purposely holding out till the bitter end, I promise. You all deserve the final summit push. So lets bring it to you today and tonight. We sure hope that the old adage," good things come to those who wait", comes true. Tough call last night holding back the summit push, always a tricky situation, but it's looking very promising tonight. Snowed pretty much all day, but now......... not a cloud in the sky, and what a moon! Dave reports a little windy at the Col right now. I can't guarantee the team will summit, but there is a group of men at the South Col tonight that have done just about all that is possible to have a shot at the top. I can guarantee.... this RMI group will give Mount Everest the respect she deserves, and will not push harder than seems reasonable. It's all relative when you subject yourself to some of the most extreme conditions on Earth. With the support we have from our incredible Sherpa staff, and the wealth of experience our guides bring to this expedition. No worries mate. I may even get a few winks in between the dispatches I plan to send throughout the night.

Narrative of the summit bid

Dave Hahn and Leif Whittaker at South Col

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Denali Expedition: Champion & Team’s Wait is Over, Fly to Talkeetna

June 5, 2023

Posted by: Nikki Champion, Lauren Macklin, Leif Bergstrom

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 348'

Here's one more haiku,

The otters finally flew

We have made it back.

After a few long days sitting and waiting in our tents at Basecamp, K2 Aviation was able to make their way up glacier to come and grab our teams and sneak us back to Talkeetna last night.

We unpacked all the group gear, took our first shower in a long time, and got to enjoy a hot meal not prepared by an RMI guide.

After a long and challenging trip, we were all very thankful to make it back to land safe and sound.

Until next year!

Nikki

Aconcagua: Van Deventer & Team Experience Groundhog Day

February 1, 2013

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Leon Davis, Mike King

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua

Elevation: 18,000'

Groundhog Day here at Aconcagua Camp 2. A windy night and windy day here confirmed our decision to wait a day before moving up. It's hard to spend two days just hanging in tents though, and the group is psyched to move tomorrow and get closer to our objective. As the forecasts keep coming in (we get pretty OCD as guides right around now) things are looking great for Sunday! Onward and upward, RMI Guides Pete, Leon, Mike, and team

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Ecuador Volcanoes: Nugent & Team Prepare for Cotopaxi Summit

January 16, 2013

Posted by: Billy Nugent

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador

Elevation: 16,000'

The time spent relaxing at Chilcabamba was wonderful but like all good things came to an end. Fortunately for us, there will be more excitement to come as our adventure continues. We are about to make our move up to the Jose Ribas Refugio on Cotopaxi (over 16,000') where we hope to get a little nap in before launching for the summit very early tomorrow morning. The weather pattern has been promising and with a little luck we will all be taking hero pics and exchanging high fives on the summit! But we're not counting our chickens before the eggs hatch, Cotopaxi is a big mountain and deserves respect. Wish us luck! More on the alpine escapades of this intrepid group as our program continues... Stay with us! RMI Guide Billy Nugent

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Aconcagua: Justman & Team Arrive in Guanacos Camp

December 15, 2012

Posted by: JJ Justman, Geoff Schellens

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua

Elevation: 18,000'

Hello everyone at the RMI blog site for Team One here on Aconcagua. Wanted to give you a little bit of an update as far as what we are up to. First of all the team is doing absolutely great. We actually moved our camp to Camp Two at 18,000' and we are nestled in, tents are up. We've already had a round of hot drinks and now we are just resting and relaxing. We always want to be optimistic, but to let you know a little bit of the weather forecast that we have. It is not looking that great. The winds are picking up, there is a big lenticular right now over the summit, and they are calling for incredibly strong winds for the next 4 to 5 days. However, you never know if those forecasts are wrong so we are hunkered down here, our tents are nice and solid. So, the winds are not as strong down here as they are up high. So everyone is doing great, but this is part of big mountain expedition climbing. Little bit of a waiting game and that's what we need to do is just kind of see what Mother Nature gives us, so we've got high hopes. And we'll basically give a call tomorrow and get a little more updates on the weather and see what's happening. But for right now. Everyone's doing great, and we'll check back in tomorrow and let you know what we're up to. Most likely maybe a walk up towards high camp. And a little more resting and recovery. So take care everyone. Will talk again soon. Ciao from Argentina. RMI Guide JJ Justman

JJ Justman check in from Guanacos Camp, 18,000' on Aconcagua

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Elbrus Expedition: Mallory & Team Enjoy St. Petersburg Tour

July 18, 2012

Posted by: Linden Mallory

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Elbrus Southside

We enjoyed a leisurely day in St. Petersburg on our last day in Russia. From our hotel we walked the several hundred yards to St. Isaac's Cathedral, climbing the 211 steps to the Colonnade that offers sweeping views of the city below. Built in the early 1700s, Peter the Great designed St. Petersburg after European cities and the city is often referred to as the "Venice of the North". Dozens of canals wind through the city, connecting to the Neva River running through the heart of St. Petersburg. From the Colonnade we could see over the rooftops of the city's early fortress, it's palaces and government buildings, and its beautifully restored churches. Descending from the Colonnade we made our way to the Church of our Savior on Spilled Blood, an ornately decorated Church built over the stones where Tsar Alexander II was stabbed. Although built on a gloomy premise, the church's interior is incredible, with intricate, colorful mosaics covering the multistory interior. Lastly, we visited the Hermitage Museum, Russia's largest museum and home to over 4 million pieces of art. While the artwork matches any museum in the world, the building alone, built by Catherine the Great, is worth the visit in itself. Stretching out along the banks of the Neva, each room and hall is decorated in it's unique style. After dinner (an excellent seafood restaurant) we climbed on board a boat and toured St. Petersburg's canals, winding through the buildings, under the roads and bridges, and along the Neva. Many of us leave early in the morning for flights home. It's been a great trip through Russia to Europe's highest peak, and we are looking forward to sharing the stories and photos with all of you at home. RMI Guide Linden Mallory

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Denali Expedition: Bond and Team Return to Basecamp

June 24, 2023

Posted by: Andy Bond, Jack Delaney, Joey Manship

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,200'

Saturday, June 24, 2023 7:39 am PDT

We’re at Basecamp and I think there is a good chance we will fly. We’ll let everyone know when we arrive in Talkeetna.

Friday, June, 23, 2023 8:28 pm PDT

The crew descended down to 11,000’ Camp where we will depart for basecamp during the night in hopes of flying off the mountain Saturday.

The weather has not been all that kind to us on this trip and we are in and out of snow as clouds stream up the Kahiltna glacier up and over Kahiltna pass. We’re hoping for flyable weather tomorrow but know that no one has flown off the mountain since Monday. Hopefully the next time you here from us, we’ll Be in Talkeetna!

RMI Guide Andy Bond, Jack Delaney, Joey Manship and Team

Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Move to Camp High Camp Ready for Summit Attempt

May 31, 2017

Posted by: Mike Walter, Robby Young, Lucas Haaland

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 17,200'

May 31, 2017 Hi, it's Mike Walter calling on Wednesday May 31st. We had a beautiful day today, and we moved up to the High Camp on Denali's West Buttress, 17200 feet. We got here a little bit after 1pm today and have been setting up camp and resting. Everyone is resting and the weather looks good for tomorrow. So hopefully we'll be able to take a shot at the summit. Everyone is doing well. Hopefully we will be giving you a call from the summit and let you know how it goes. Alright. RMI Guide Mike Walter

RMI Guide Mike Walter checks in from High Camp at 17,200 ft on Denali.

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RMI Guide Seth Waterfall Recounts The First Two Days Of His AMGA Rock Guide Course

November 29, 2014

Posted by: Steve Gately, Seth Waterfall, Pete Van Deventer, Billy Haas, Caleb Ladue

Categories: Guide News Guide Grant

In late October, RMI guides Pete Van Deventer, Caleb Ladue, Billy Haas, Steve Gately and myself took part in a Rock Guide Course conducted by the American Mountain Guides Association. The course was contracted and sponsored by the RMI Expeditions/First Ascent Guide Grant, and the instructors included former RMI Guide Jeff Ward, RMI and Colorado Mountain School Guide Mike Soucy and CMS Guide Mark Hammond. As a guide staff, we felt very fortunate that both RMI and the AMGA instructors were able to plan the course during a timeframe that allowed us to work a full summer schedule on Rainier and still have a few weeks to prepare and train in the rock realm after a long season of alpine climbing in the Cascades. After completing my Ski Exam and becoming a Certified Ski Mountaineering Guide in April of this last year, I am personally very grateful to RMI for sponsoring the course, which allowed me to complete a second financially committing segment of my continuing education and progression toward full IFMGA certification. The 10-day course took place at Smith Rock State Park near Bend, OR. Over the years I have spent a fair bit of time climbing at Smith and I knew the venue would provide some unique challenges from both a climbing and guiding perspective. While Smith is known for it’s high quality sport climbing, on this course we would be dialing our focus more towards traditional climbing. Lucky for us, many of the ‘trad’ routes at Smith are notorious for having less than stellar rock quality, adding another complex element to the guiding objective. The course kicked off on the last week of October. The weather looked to be good for the first couple of days, so we postponed the ground-work until a later date, and got right into the climbing. For me, the learning process brought me right back to my apprenticeship days at RMI, when I had to change the filter on my perspective. I quickly learned to transition my thinking from that of an advanced recreational climber to approaching a climbing objective from the viewpoint of a guide. It’s a subtle change, but it makes a huge difference in your mindset, risk management, and the decision making process. The instructor team did a great job of leading by example. They started right off with a very professional and competent course opening discussion and several demonstrations on belaying and anchoring techniques, as well as various ways to increase both guide and client security. As outdoor professionals, we don’t sit still well or for very long, and so were very thankful when we even got to climb a few pitches at the end of the first day! The fair weather held on into our second day, but as the forecast looked to be deteriorating later in the week, the instructors opted to keep us in the field climbing in the event that we got shut down by rain and wind over the following days. This strategy worked quite well, as we were able to practice more of the techniques and rope trickery we learned the previous day while spending time off the ground in the vertical orientation. By nature, guides tend to be kinesthetic learners, and as a group we all commented on the fact that we were able to process and retain the information with higher success if we could get our hands on the rope. After the first few days, the course continued to ramped up both physically and mentally. For me it just got better as it went on, and the final day was by far the best, culminating in a lead of the aesthetic final pitch of Zebra Zion. I can’t say enough about the both the quality and caliber of the AMGA instructors, and I’d like to especially thank my co-workers for a great time and creating an environment that was positive and fun, all while staying engaged and eager to learn every day. Finally, a big thank you RMI, for investing in your guides and organizing this opportunity to allow us to further our professional education! _____ Seth Waterfall has been guiding trips for RMI for over a decade, and leads trips to destinations the world round. He lives in Enumclaw, WA, were he spends his spare time skiing, road biking, and climbing throughout the Cascades.

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Aconcagua: Justman & Team Back at Base Camp