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Billy here checking in from Camp IV at 14,200' after a strong showing from our team on a big move up. We enjoyed mostly clear skies and incredibly strong sun on the way up from our previous camp at 11,000'. In fact, the sun was a little too strong; while the ambient temperature hovered in the teens we felt like we were boiling for the majority of our climb. It's amazing what a little radiation can do. After all our hard work we were rewarded with an easy move-in to Mike Walter's recently vacated camp. Sometimes you just get lucky. The high pressure is supposed to stick around through the extended forecast so we aim to keep on chipping away... Wulpseeya! RMI Guide Billy Nugent

On The Map

Vacation in Namche was great, today it was back to business. We were out of the comfortable Camp de Base by a little after 8 AM and walking up the steep hills out of town under perfectly clear skies. A couple of turns of the trail brought the dependably spectacular view of Everest, Lhotse and Ama Dablam. We seemed to be out ahead of most other trekking/climbing groups and so we enjoyed a relatively quiet walk on the trail. Much of the day was spent walking in the shade of pine forests. By midday we'd reached our lunch stop at Phunkytanga (funkytown, as we all call it) and so we sat for an hour or so before beginning the big hill up to Thyangboche Monastery. We took just an hour to switchback our way up 1,600 ft of vertical. The work was made a little easier by the cloud cover that had moved in and some gentle breezes which kept us cool. We enjoyed the view of the great castle-like Monastery on top of the hill, but we didn't stay up there long with weather obviously moving in. We hopped five hundred feet down the other side of the hill through thick Rhododendron forests to Deboche and our teahouse for the night. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

RMI Guides Casey Grom & Billy Nugent led the Four Day Summit Climb teams to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The teams were approaching the crater rim just after 7 a.m. They reported clear skies, warm temperatures and very light winds. Once they begin their descent they will return to Camp Muir and then continue down to Paradise. We look forward to seeing them at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon. Congratulations to today's summit climber teams!

Today was a good day. Folks keep commenting on how this place keeps getting more stunning. With the new snow we have had recently, the contrast of the Alaskan Range with its freshly painted steep spines, flutes that glow in the alpine light and bright blue glacial ice glistening in the sun. I have to agree. We have been waking up around seven each morning to some very chilly temperatures. Today camp was busy since some stable weather moved in and people took advantage of being out in it. We spent our entire day putting our skills to use. Everyone set up 6:1 crevasse rescue system simulating an actual crevasse fall of their climbing partner. We took a turn catching a fall, being lowered into the crevasse, and being the climber responsible for running the show. Everyone did very well and we were impressed. After that we still had plenty of time left so we fixed some lines - ropes - and rappelled down into the crevasse where we transitioned into icicle climbing mode. I think a couple folks might have just acquired a new but expensive sport. Now we are all chilling, making some pretty amazing quesadillas - the group contributions has allowed for some creative visions. We'll see what we get into tomorrow. Good night from the land of the six hour sunset. RMI Guide Jason Thompson

The Four Day Climbs August 10 - 13 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning led by RMI Guides Brent Okita and Jackson Breen. It's a beautiful day with clear skies and great views.  The teams enjoyed some time on top before starting their descent from the crater rim around 6:40 am.  Once they reach Camp Muir they will take a short break and then continue the final 4,500' to Paradise.

Nice work team!

The Fellowship of Climbers, bound by their quest to conquer Mount Doom (i.e. Aconcagua), set forth from Camp 1. Sauron (i.e. Ben), the dark lord of the mountain, led the way, his all-seeing eye detecting all possible overhead hazard.

Gollum (i.e. Yev) crept alongside, whispering "precious summit, we wants it, we needs it." Hannah, Jim, and Nick followed, their hearts steeled for the trials ahead.

As they ascended, the winds howled and the scree tumbled. Yet the Fellowship pressed on, driven by their quest to reach the unattainable summit of Mount Doom. At last, they reached Camp 2, weary but undaunted. The vastness of the mountain loomed ahead, but they stood ready to face its windy challenges."

RMI Climber James Loudin

Tuesday, May 10, 2022 - 9:00 pm PT

Greetings from the Ruth Gorge!

This morning we woke to beautiful weather and knew our time had come to fly into the Alaska range. After we landed on the glacier at the Sheldon mountain house we packed, roped up and headed down into the Ruth gorge. We walked down the valley glacier towards camp with endless granite walls on either side. We set our base camp for the trip and enjoyed splendid views with dinner. Getting some well earned rest tonight!

RMI Guide Avery Parrinello

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz team reached the summit of Mt. Rainier at around 8am this morning. RMI Guide Avery Parrinello repoted a beautiful day of climb, and the route through the Kautz Ice Chute was in great shape. The Team has started their descent and will spend another day training and practicing alpine expedition skills to prepare for future climbs like Denali or Aconcagua.

Congratulations to today's team! 

We didn’t take Sergio seriously when he said “I have a snowcat”. We were discussing the approach to Sierra Nevada, which would typically involve four-wheel drive pickups to get to where the snow starts. As our Chilean outfitter and local guru, Sergio has been with us the whole trip, and here in Malalcahuello we are staying at his ideally positioned lodge, the SuizAndina. It turns out Sergio has two mini snowcat-like vehicles he recently acquired, and he was psyched to give one of them a try in getting us to Sierra Nevada. If all went well, it seemed possible that we'd found a loophole in the “No Shortcuts to the Top” argument. The mini snowcat would deliver us to treeline, we could spend more time touring in the alpine, and maybe get a few bonus turns at the end of the day. Apparently the universe is on Ed Viesturs’ side. Before we even hit the snow, the mini snowcat had lost one of its tracks. These are the moments where us skiers start to panic internally. Will we make it to the snow? Will we ski today? With one track down and Sergio at the helm, the mini snowcat still performed amazingly well in getting us up the gnarly road. When we hit the snow, it was time to earn our turns. We ascended through mysterious Araucaria forest (monkey puzzle trees) and out on to a long alpine ridge. Cornice on one side, rocks on the other. The terrain became particularly interesting on the upper mountain, with a series of intersecting ridges, alpine bowls, and mushroomy ice features. The weather was perfect, the views endless, and we were able to ski from the highest point beneath the summit (the last 50’ was steep rime ice). Sierra Nevada is one of those descents that just goes on forever. Photos tell the story better than words. Chilean ski adventure to the max. RMI Guide Tyler Reid

The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guide Andres Marin left Camp Muir (10,060') on an alpine start and traveled above Ingraham Flats reaching 11,500' before turning around due to unstable snow conditions. The team began their descent from Camp Muir shortly before 9 am. We look forward to meeting the group in Ashford this afternoon.