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Denali Expedition: Bond & Team Carry to 14k

Wednesday, June 22, 2022 - 10:18 pm PT

Greetings from airy 11,000' Camp where the mountaineers flock like the salmon of Capistrano. Would you indulge us in settling this morning’s debate: is there a more superior cereal than Cinnamon Toast Crunch (CTC to those in the know). This writer thinks not and attributes todays stellar team performance to this fortifying breakfast enjoyed over laughter and the spirit of camaraderie that only six days of shared tents, suffering and toilet buckets can conjure.

Today’s adventure began with the famed Motorcycle Hill. We cruised harder than Harry and Floyd en route to Aspen. Squirrel Hill elevated us to new and exciting views as we caught our breath before crossing the polo field. No polo was played. And then of course the much anticipated windy corner, which was hot and windless. Overall a gain of over 3000 feet.

On the descent the heavens darkened and in recognition of the fervor and prowess of this team, released thunder that rolled and echoed off the surrounding ice. We have declared our team name: the thundercats. And like Thor wielding his hammer, the thundercats will brandish their ice axes on the upper mountain if the weather allows.

We have handed off the hula hoop to Hannah’s team at 14,000'. Kiira claims she cannot be beaten in a hula hoop contest. We beg to differ, and look forward to proving it in a couple short days when we return to 14k to claim our camp and our cache and our hula hoop title.

We are enjoying resting at camp tonight and have planned a spa day for tomorrow. The hot springs here are just divine.

RMI Climber Holly

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

I prefer Bawsman Toast Crunch…BTC in da Berry Please

Posted by: Donnie Rouse on 6/23/2022 at 1:45 pm

As far as cereal is concerned, there used to be a Cinnamon Toast Crunch / Golden Graham cereal that basically was Golden Grahams covered in the CTC dust(?) - sugar coating stuff. I can’t find it in stores any more but now you half to mix about 1/3 CTC to 2/3 Golden Grahams to get close to it. Cheers! Hope all of the feets are doing well!!

Posted by: Beth Heinonen on 6/23/2022 at 10:50 am


Kilimanjaro: Grom & Team Back to Civilization

Back to civilization and freshly showered! We have returned from the mountain and are doing great. It's been a long day but we smell clean and our bellies are full after another wonderful meal from the Dik Dik staff. Everyone is looking forward to the safari tomorrow. RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew
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CONGRATS YOU HAVE DONE great DANIEL

Posted by: w. d. cate on 2/5/2013 at 3:24 pm


Mexico Volcanoes: The Team’s Outcome on Orizaba

Hey everyone, this is JJ Justman with the Mexico Adventure team. We are happy to report that we are back at basecamp here on Orizaba. The mountain today, Orizaba, said no. It's always a little bit unfortunate. It's always a bummer when you don't summit. But we made it to within about 1,500 feet of the summit. Actually made it a good way on the glacier but we had rock hard, bulletproof ice. It's something I've never seen here before and pretty rare on all the mountains I've been on. We could hardly even penetrate our crampons. It was that firm. So my gut was telling me the obvious. Orizaba said no to reaching the top. It's something I never really share with my team before a summit climb, but I did have to let them know that while we were on Ixta, here on Orizaba, that same day unfortunately, a climber who was non-guided, slipped and fell. And she did not make it. So when you hear things like that, and you have the conditions that we had, it's a pretty easy decision to make. Even though it's disappointing not reaching the top, we are back down safe and sound and you know what, we can come back when Orizaba is in better shape, better conditions and give her another shot, but the team is real happy. We made the summit of Ixta, and that definitely still has us smiling and we're definitely glad to be down here. So we're gonna pack up camp and head back down to Dr. Reyes' and we'll have a good meal down there and definitely have a celebration. So thanks for tuning in. Everyone here says hello and we will hopefully see you on the mountain. Bye. RMI Guide JJ Justman


RMI Guide JJ Justman recaps their day on Orizaba.

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Snowfall at ABC on Cho Oyu and the First Trip to Camp 1

Hi everybody, this is Casey checking in from the Cho Oyu Expedition. Sorry about the lack of dispatch yesterday. We have been under constant snowfall since we arrived at Advanced Basecamp (ABC). We wore out all the batteries around camp. Finally today we got a little break and some sun for a few hours and were able to charge some things. Everything is back up and operational. Two days ago the team had a rest day here at ABC. We relaxed around camp and packed up a few things for the upper mountain. Started dividing up our loads and food that we will distribute at Camp 1, Camp 2, and Camp 3. We also reviewed our oxygen masks, nozzles and regulators. Everyone got that pretty well dialed in. That was pretty much it for the day. Yesterday we got up early and went for a nice little hike. Managed to go all the way to Camp 1, just over 20,500'. Everybody did great. Took us almost six hours to get to Camp 1 and about three hours to descend back down. It was a good day- long and hard with snow falling sporadically all day. When we arrived back to ABC, we were welcomed by Kumar and some wonderful hot food for dinner. Today has been a lot like two days ago. It has been nice and relaxing on our rest day here as we prepare to move to Camp 1 for our first rotation sleeping over 20,000' tomorrow. The team has again been relaxing and enjoying the little bit of sunshine that we had for a while today. Laundry was done and a few bird baths were taken. All-in-all everybody seems like they are doing really well. The snow is back as I send this dispatch. It seems like every evening we are getting snowed on. Hopefully we are going to get a break here in the weather pretty soon and have some nice, warm and enjoyable temperatures. That's it for now. We'll check in again from here in another day or two.
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Denali Expedition: Frank & Team in Place at 17K for Summit Bid

Wednesday, June 2, 2021 - 11:47 pm PT

The team moved to Denali's 17K Camp today through tough winds.  We left camp early to blue skies and cold air as we headed up the fixed lines.  The top of the fixed lines yielded increased wind, and we quickly donned our hard shells.  As we climbed further up the West Buttress, we pushed through more ferocious wind and scattered clouds.   Thankfully, as we rolled into camp the clouds abated and we are left hoping the weather holds for our summit push tomorrow.

RMI Guide Eric Frank

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

E-L-L-I-O-T & Team!

Denali Rules: P = m x v

(summit) Momentum = (team) Mass x Velocity (of its heart)

Stay present; enjoy your ride up and down that glacial coaster!

Un pour tous et tous pour un!

Love

Athos, Porthos & Aramis

Posted by: Shawn Dalgleish on 6/3/2021 at 6:34 pm

Elliot and team

Our positive thoughts are coming your way for a successful climb to the summit.

You’ve got this!

Mom and Dad Campos

Posted by: Susan Campos on 6/3/2021 at 11:58 am


Mt. Everest Expedition: Another Night at Camp 2 Before Descending Back to Base Camp

The weather here at Everest Base Camp at 4:30 a.m. was snowing hard, so Dawa and Kaji decided not to carry loads to Camp 2. Up at Camp 2 the snow was not so heavy, so Dave, Sara, Linden and Bill left toward the Lhotse Face at 7:15 a.m. After four hours and twenty-five minutes of uphill climbing Sara and Dave crossed over the 23,000-foot mark. Dave reports a great day of training, getting used to the steep terrain, and working with other teams on the face. This sort of familiarity will help them get to Camp 3 in good shape. The knowledge and technical expertise gained on these practice runs is invaluable. Linden and Bill turned around a bit before, and supported our two high altitude mountaineers back at C2. While they were all together early that day, we had support from Lam Babu and Yubarj listening in on radio transmissions from Camp 2. One more night at Camp 2, then back to EBC for another rotation of rest. Looking forward to seeing the team tomorrow. Till next time, RMI Guide Mark Tucker
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Bill and Sara:  we have been following your climbing progress and exploits, and wish you good health and safety. We had a great time at the WCAT party and you were there in spirit;  Forrest and Matthew regaled everyone talking about the early broadcasts and the fun of working with you.  Best wishes; John, Shelby and Forrest Cobb

Posted by: John Cobb on 5/3/2011 at 6:18 pm

Hi Uncle Bill!  We are rooting for you so we wrote you a little poem…..
There once was a strong guy named Bill.
He decided to climb a big hill.
He just wouldn’t stop
so he got to the top.
And wondered….that was a thrill?——Sophie wants you to read this line sarcastically :).

Posted by: Emma & Sophie McGahan on 5/3/2011 at 4:00 pm


Mt. Baker: Andy Bond and Team Summit via the Easton Glacier

Our Mt. Baker - Easton Glacier team led by RMI Guide Andy Bond reached the summit early today. Due to a forecast of clouds and rain, the team decided to make their summit attempt a day early. Lucky them, this worked, and they reached the 10.781' summit!  The rains hit when they got back to camp, so they will do their best to stay dry, and hike out early tomorrow.

Congratulations team! 

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

KAT AND SAR WHOOOOOOOO. Sorry we lied what was hardest

Posted by: Wes on 8/21/2021 at 9:14 am

Congratulations everyone you made it! Josh your dad and I are so excited for you!  Awesome job to the whole team!!!

Posted by: Robin on 8/20/2021 at 5:12 pm


Mt. Everest Expedition: Team Checks in from Camp One

Hey, this is RMI Guide Seth Waterfall checking in from Camp One on Mt. Everest at the bottom of the Western Cwm. All is well with the team. Dave is sitting next to me in the tent; he is checking in with Mark Tucker our Base Camp Coordinator. The team is snuggled into their tents next door. We had a good day today. We took a little walk up the Cwm toward Camp Two for a couple of hours. We inspected the route, crossed a few ladders and all in all had a good day. We came back to camp for a little afternoon relaxation. The weather has been fantastic, which means alternating between very hot and very cold, but the average temperature is pretty comfortable. Tomorrow we will try and head up and tag Camp Two. That is right on schedule for our acclimatization and with any luck we will hit Camp Two in the morning and head on back to Camp One for our last night of this acclimatization rotation. That is it for us. Everybody is doing well. Hello to everybody at home. We will talk to you soon. Bye.


RMI Guide Seth Waterfall checks in from Camp One on Mt. Everest.

On The Map

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Mt. Rainier: June 18th Update

Due to avalanche activity, the Four Day Climb with RMI Guides JT Schmitt and Alex Halliday did not climb above Camp Muir this morning. The mountain received 8+" of new snow yesterday afternoon and there were numerous slides on the Cowlitz Glacier with several going over the trail. In the first picture, you can see evidence of avalanche debris that has been deposited along the first steps of the route.

The team has started their descent and will back at Ashford Basecamp early this afternoon.

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Happy Birthday to my son Davis!

Posted by: Sherry Yonge on 6/18/2022 at 1:58 pm

8+’ ? Surely that’s in inches! Let’s all hope the weather improves and parties stay safe.

Posted by: David on 6/18/2022 at 11:25 am


Denali Expedition: Parrinello and Team Arrive in Talkeetna

According to the TV Show Lost - all good looking people sit on the right side of an airplane. Well, that's clearly what our team did because we have a great looking crew! After meeting up at the Anchorage airport we hopped in the shuttle and headed towards Talkeetna! There was no awkward silence as everyone quickly started chatting and getting to know one another. A quick grocery stop and 2 hours later we were in Talkeetna with amazing views of the Alaska Range! Our travel weary team rallied the last of their energy for a group dinner and then we wandered back to the bunkhouse for some well-deserved rest. 

RMI Guides Avery, Jack, Liam and Team

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Love you Michael!!! So proud of you… keep pushing, we are all rooting for you. Best of luck and love to you and everyone with you!

Posted by: Desiree on 6/5/2022 at 8:12 pm

The amazing Capt Coffey ( also known as the “Everest Gaston”),
Go get that summit! Wishing you and your team amazing weather and safe climbing. Look forward to celebrating 2022 successes, with margs, soon! See ya when I’m lookin’ at ya!
Be sure to put sunscreen up your nose,
Meghan

Posted by: Meghan Buchanan on 6/3/2022 at 11:53 pm

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