Entries from Kilimanjaro

We reached Mweka Camp at 2:50 PM to finish our 16-hour climbing day. 

The “day” began last night at 11 PM when we woke for our summit bid.  After a little breakfast, at 12:05 AM we hit the trail behind Naiman - our lead guide. 

Our team made rapid progress, passing several other teams on the dirt and rock switchbacks.  It was a fairly cold night, and that was before the winds started up.  By our second rest break, a few hours into the climb we were adding clothing layers and putting on bigger gloves.  By our fourth break, most of the team had all available clothing on.  We hit the crater rim at Stella Point by 5:40 AM and took just a brief pause there for food and water before pushing on toward Uhuru - Kilimanjaro’s summit.  The light of day came slowly and beautifully on as we walked on the rim at 19,000 ft.  Sunrise was most welcome at 6:30 but by then our attention was on the phenomenal shadow cast by Kilimanjaro in the skies to the west… exactly over the summit of 15,000 ft Mt Meru.  

We hit Uhuru at 6:40 AM and shed a few tears, shook hands, hugged, and snapped photos.  It was an amazingly beautiful time of day.  But it was also bitterly cold and windy, so we got out of there at 6:55 and headed back to Stella without delay.  Winds were really picking up at Stella then and putting a lot of dirt and dust in the air, so we cruised right on over the edge and started dropping altitude.  The descent was a combination of careful steps and full-on boot skiing through steep gravel and pumice. 

We were back to camp at a respectable hour 9:40 AM, rubbing our eyes and wiping dirt and dust off our faces.  Our fabulous staff treated the team to a full brunch/lunch of 15,000 ft pizza and coffee, after which we left camp bound for Mweka - 5000 ft lower.  The trail down is direct and rough, we certainly were cautious and ready to be done for much of it. 

Now it is a relief to be camped in the forest for one more night.  The air has moisture again… and oxygen in abundance. 

Best Regards

RMI Guide Dave Hahn & team

Yet another perfect weather day, calm and sunny… clear above and cloudy below. We ate breakfast in Karanga Camp and then said a temporary goodbye to two of our climbers.  John Bobbitt aggravated an old knee injury and Erika Bobbitt wanted to make sure he got down safely.  They set off for the Mweka Gate of the park as we set off for high camp at 8:30 AM. In an easy three hours, we had climbed the 2000’ vertical feet up to Barafu and begun to settle in.  From 15,100 ft, we now had unobstructed views of our climbing route to the top.

The afternoon was taken up with resting and getting our gear and clothing ready for our planned alpine start. Chef Benson’s fine spaghetti dinner was served early so that we could get to bed just before sunset. We want as much rest as we can get before our 11:15 PM wake-up time.

Best Regards,

RMI Guide Dave Hahn & Team

Greetings from 13,150 ft in Karanga Camp on Kilimanjaro.  The team started the day in the garden-like Barranco Camp below the great rock wall of the same name.  It was a perfect weather day right from the outset.  There were no winds and no upper level clouds although the lower sea of clouds continued to hide the rest of the world from our view.  We got moving toward the Barranco Wall just aft 8:30 AM.  The lower third of the lava wall is a set of ledges that tend to get one’s attention.  Both hands are needed on the rock holds and the feet need to be carefully placed as we move from ledge to ledge.  It all gets a little more exciting as several hundred porters (from our own team as well as from the numerous surrounding teams) attempt to politely squeeze by with awkward and heavy loads balanced on their heads.  The wall relents in its middle sections and turns into steep switchbacks with occasional odd steps.  At the top, we were back to hands on rock to get over the final escarpments.  All told it took us about two hours to get on top of the wall.  It was a great feeling to pull onto the flat and have unimpeded views of Kibo’s cliffs and ice fields above.  We then moved down and East across several shallow valleys before we crossed a deep and steep sided one -the Karanga Valley- to reach our camp on the opposite rim.  It took roughly four hours to reach Karanga.  We were just in time for lunch and an afternoon snooze.  After dinner we stared up at the Milky Way and the southern cross and Kibo glowing in the moonlight. 

Best Regards

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

When 6:30 rolled around this morning, the clouds were all gone at Shira Camp.  Kibo stood out clear as a bell and so did Meru, the 15,000 ft volcano to our west.  There was still a sea of clouds down below, but they were well below our lofty 12,500 ft camp.  We were walking uphill by 8:30, straight toward Kibo.  It was an easy day for climbing with gentle breezes to keep us cool.  The trail was easier than those we’ve experienced so far and we made good and steady progress.  We reached the Lava Tower at around 12:30 PM and sat down at 15,200 ft for a leisurely lunch in the sun.  Our nine climbers had each broken their personal altitude records.  It was amazing to be so close under Kibo’s gigantic rock and ice faces.   Finally we geared up and started walking down.  We came gradually back into the zones where plants live and then it was wonderful to stroll down through the gardens of Barranco with Giant Senecios and lobelias and Heather.   We made it to camp at 3:30 and ducked into the dining tent for coffee and popcorn.  Coming into camp it was hard not to look over at the Barranco wall and wonder about tomorrow’s climb.  But the beauty of Kibo at sunset and the amazing stars that came out a bit later helped to settle our minds on the present.  We’ll worry about the wall tomorrow. 

Best Regards

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

We got out of the tents at 6:30 this morning to find the clouds had returned. It was still calm though and not terribly cold at our 10,000 ft camp. We ate breakfast and hit the trail shortly after 8 AM. The trail was a good deal more rugged than yesterday’s with about a million rocky steps to negotiate as we steadily gained altitude through the giant heather forest. The morning rush hour was something to see, with porters from a half dozen expeditions charging up the path all at once. “Traffic” normalized after a few hours and the angle eased as we reached a ridge crest.

We found ourselves above the clouds once more as we moved along the ridge toward Kibo -which was not only visible again, but a good deal closer than it had been at our last glimpse. We made a big left turn to the North and began the traverse out toward Shira. The terrain got more interesting as we needed our hands on rock to pass a number of ledges.  The vegetation changed as we closed in on 12,800 ft -our high point for the day- we saw more giant senecios and lobelias as things got higher and drier.

Finally, we turned the corner onto the Shira Plateau and began walking downhill toward camp. We pulled in at about 2 PM… just in time for lunch and an afternoon nap. By dinner at 12,500 ft, things had cooled considerably and many of us had several warm clothing layers on for stargazing before bed.

Best Regards,

RMI Guide Dave Hahn & Team

After so many days of preparation and travel and anticipation, what a thrill it was to finally be walking uphill.  We left our comfortable hotel at 8 AM in a bus headed east.  We’d reached the Kilimanjaro National Park entrance by 10 AM and after a further hour of getting organized and registered with the park, we were off.  It was raining lightly when we left our hotel, but it was merely cloudy and damp when we got walking through the big trees at the start of the Machame route. Moss was thriving and hanging from every branch and tree trunk and the trail was a little greasy under foot.  Before long, we were steadily gaining altitude.  The bus had taken us to 6000 ft and our goal for the day, Machame Camp, sat at 10,000 ft, so it was always going to be a tough workout.  It was certainly tougher for our staff as they raced uphill with far heavier loads than we were carrying.  We took short breaks every 90 minutes or so in order to eat and drink and by a little after 4 PM, the trees were getting smaller, the clouds were thinning and magically, our camp appeared… right where we’d hoped to find it.   The crew had built us a wonderful home and we simply needed to move in.  We sat in our dining tent for an afternoon snack and then, just before dinner, the clouds cleared enough to give our first magical views of Kibo -Kilimanjaro’s central peak- shining in the last rays of the sun nine thousand feet above us.   Dinner was excellent and by 8 PM we were crawling into our tents and heading for bed… pleasantly tired and ready for a night with perhaps a little less jet lag. 

Best Regards

RMI Guide Dave Hahn & Team

Today was an easy day at the Rivertrees Hotel on the outskirts of Arusha.

The team met after breakfast to get into the details of our Kilimanjaro climb. We discussed staffing and itineraries and what gear gets used when. We talked about getting to the mountain and getting away from it and everything in between. We talked about packing and sorting gear and then we broke up the meeting in order to pack and sort.

Gear checks were performed back in the hotel rooms and then the gang had much of the afternoon to relax and work through jet lag.

We gathered for dinner outside on the patio and then drifted off to rest for our big first day of climbing.

Best Regards,

Dave Hahn

Wow.  We did it.  Against all odds, the team made it clear over to East Africa without missed or canceled flights and without losing luggage. 

We’re assembled here in USA River, Tanzania (on the outskirts of Arusha) and ready to begin our Kilimanjaro adventure.  Some of the team used the day to explore the town, some were still en route and some of us just napped… trying to work out the jet lag.  But we came together for a pleasant dinner in the garden-like setting of the Rivertrees Hotel.  Most chose to wear sweaters, finding the cool temps a pleasant change from the various heat waves plaguing the States these days.  The nine team members simply enjoyed each other’s company this evening…  tomorrow morning we’ll begin the business of prepping for a week of climbing Africa’s highest mountain. 

Best Regards, 

Dave Hahn

I don't know how the Ngorongoro Crater can be beat but Tarangire National Park may have done just that. What an incredible day! 

Having gotten some much needed souvenir shopping done on the way to the park we arrived before lunch time and decided to put some miles in before stopping to eat. In the first 3 miles we saw so much game that we had to turn back to eat at the designated picnic stop by the entrance. 

With our fill of zebra, wildebeest, impala, giraffes, elephants and more, all at less than a stone's throw away, we went on the search for a lion. Did we ever score, thanks to our safari guides/drivers. Lions hanging in the grass were nothing compared to seeing two hanging out on a tree limb. This was followed up by seeing a young male who was busy digesting his kill from the morning that we passed by earlier. Then, miraculously, we came upon a leopard lounging in a tree, surveilling her area hoping for dinner to walk by. This was a first for me, and we were all quite excited about it. 

Then, it was a long 1 1/2 hr drive to our lodge in the park. When we finally got there, we were amazed at just how incredible this place was. Not only super posh, but as we sipped on drinks on the patio listening to the manager explain about life at his safari lodge in the park, we had elephants. Impala and several other species of game walking past the lodge in plain sight. Then, in our ''rooms' we found 5-star accommodations waiting for us. I think we're all in awe! 

Now, later, I'll just say that dinner was perfect, and I didn't get jumped by a lion on the way back to my quarters

All for now, 

RMI Guide Brent Okita & Team 

I'm continually amazed with the Ngorongoro Crater each time I visit. The variety and sheer number of animals we see blows my mind. Today might have surpassed what I've seen in prior trips.

It started with a bang as one of the first critters we encountered was a hyena feeding on a carcass with a jackal and vulture looking on. A Nat Geo moment if there ever was. It got better from there on. The animal we all wanted to really see, simba, popped into view not terribly long after the hyena. A big male showed itself for us looking as regal and mighty as only a big cat can look. Later, we got closer looks at a pride of four or five lions, including a young male, resting by a river, content to relax before they go hunting again. Perhaps the coolest thing was just being in the middle of hundreds, if not thousands, of animals like wildebeest, zebra, gazelle, warthog, Cape Buffalo, and more. All just milling around, some just inches from the vehicle and more as far as the eye could see. Things were so active we were delayed in reaching the designated picnic area for lunch because we had to stop and gawk so much. 

Finally, we made it to our lunch site and were treated to a great meal centered around chicken shishkabobs. On our way out we stopped by a Masai bomba, or village, where we were invited to learn about their culture and how they live. Sure, we pay for the privilege, but I think it money well spent as it helps support these people who are caught between keeping to their traditional ways while existing in a world so unlike theirs.

The day ended with another gourmet dinner, the likes of which none of us commonly partake. A nice South African Cabernet seemed an appropriate pairing to the wonderful meal. The great company only made the evening perfect. 

Tomorrow: Tarangire National Park!

Cheers,

RMI Guide Brent Okita & Team