UPDATE:
Sunday, June 9, 2019 - 8:27 PM PT
The team is all safely back at high camp. Everyone did an excellent job on the way down. - JM
Sunday, June 9, 2019 - 5:24 PM PT
This is John Michael Gorum, calling from the summit of Denali believe it or not, at long last and multiple attempts, we made it! Beautiful day, climbing in light layers and light gloves. [We are] taking photos and some snacks on top and about to head back down. I will send an email update when we get back to camp. All right, you'll hear from us later.
RMI Guide JM Gorum
Congrats to you for a long, challenging and incredibly successful climb!
We could not be any more happy for you and the other climbers.
GREAT JOB!!
Tom and Becky
Posted by: Tom and Becky on 6/11/2019 at 8:29 am
Congratulations to all the team quite an achievement ;;well done beautiful photos beautiful clear skies ;my French man is right behind you guys they did a gear climb to camp 5 return to camp 4 .monday 10 th June ;so maybey a summit attempt in the next few days ; his satellite connection is not great so i have been following you guys ;;nice job;;;
Sunday, June 9, 2019 - 3:47 PM PT
The calm and mostly clear weather continues to give our Team great windows to get our gear, food and fuel moved up Denali. This morning we got a good start with cold temperatures to avoid being out in the heat. The temps dropped slightly as we climbed motorcycle hill then squirrel hill and onto the lower polo fields (actual names of these landmarks, not hypoxia kicking in). Despite the steep aspects and heavy packs the Team crushed the difficult carry and was rewarded with a sunny and warm not so “Windy Corner” of Denali’s West Buttress. We could see teams moving up towards the fixed lines out of 14 Camp and got a chance to talk with RMI guide Robby Young as his team was headed up the fixed lines. The grand scale of the Alaska Range has kept people mesmerized along with the constantly changing scenery as we climb higher. We will rest for the remainder of the day and there’s bound to be more laughter once people get a nap in. It’s been a great group and trip so far. Tomorrow our plans are to pack up camp and move to 14,200’ and get our base camp hang dialed in so we can take advantage of the next favorable forecast window.
RMI Guide Mike King
Please tell Allan Oliver that Emily and I are thinking about him and can’t help but be super impressed that he is doing this! Amazing! Chris
Posted by: Chris Beecroft on 6/10/2019 at 12:49 pm
Hi Mike and team,
I couldn’t find y’all in the registry. Gorem and team coming down, while your behind Nick, et al. So happy for all to get better weather. What’s on the menu? And, how about a shot of Foraker please. Windy corner looks gnarly! Have fun, and step safe
Saturday, June 9, 2019 - 10:08 PM PT
Hello world,
Checking in from 14,000' Camp here on Denali. All is well. Today, was all about one thing...supreme chill! A true rest day was enjoyed by all here at Camp under sunny skies and no wind. It was truly a glorious day to be in the Alaska Range. We were up and attem at 9:30am for a bagel, cream cheese, and salmon feast. Breakfast rolled into Gin Rummy, then into sun tanning, then into ‘Hot Drinks Poker’ and right into Buffalo Chicken dinner. It was just what the doctor ordered for this team today. Tomorrow, if the weather allows, it’s back to business. We hope to carry some food, fuel, and gear to the upper mountain tomorrow; probably to Washburn’s Thumb above 16,000’. The weather looks to remain nice for the next few days so we’re cautiously optimistic that we might be able to spend some more time on the upper mountain in the near future (knock on wood). For now, the sun is behind the ridge and we’re tucked in the sleeping sacks. We’ll check in with you all tomorrow.
RMI Guides Robby, Nick, Joe and Team Poker Face
Saturday, June 8, 2019 - 7:39 PM PT
Guess who’s back? We are. We’re back at High Camp. A place I never really thought I would find myself twice over the course of one Denali trip. The Precision Strike Summit Team (PSST) made quick work of the move back up here. We are a well oiled machine by now. Other teams yell various commands when passing anchors on the fixed lines: “stop!” “go!” “climbing!” “what?” “did you say go?” “huh?!” We climb in silence now, like panthers, sure of each others actions without having to verbalize them. We made it to 17,000' Camp and moved right back in to our old tent platforms, so that made things efficient. We’re currently all chilling out in the tents, rehydrating, and waiting for dinner. The views are great, but we’ve already spent four days looking at them, so nobody is terribly preoccupied at this point. Here’s hoping tomorrow is another calm, clear day.
RMI Guide JM Gorum
Okay, that’s hilarious. Lol! Go PSST! LOL! If possible, get it done and get your tushes back down. Step safe. What am I saying?. Your panthers. No problems
Saturday, June 8, 2019 - 3:42 PM PT
We had our first active rest day today. The weather forecast called for a calm night with increasing clouds and possible precipitation through the day. The air was still when I woke at 5 am to check the weather. After a salmon and cream cheese bagel breakfast we set off down hill with our sleds strapped to our backpacks. The goal was to carry all of our cache from 9300’ to 11,200’. The Team did exceptionally well and we managed to beat the heat of the morning for all but the last hour. The afternoon clouds are coming into camp and creating a greenhouse effect where the UV comes through the clouds and reflects off the snow then gets bounced back by the clouds making for a hot day in camp. People have their sleeping bags clipped on the outside of the tent for a more ideal napping environment. So long as the weather continues this pattern we will wake early and carry food and fuel around Windy Corner in preparation for our camp move to 14,200’ in Genet Basin. Even though we have been moving lots of weight up the glacier for four days, the Team is happy and enjoying the beautiful scenery here on Denali. Thanks for following along.
RMI Guide Mike King
It sounds like an amazing experience. Please tell Allan Oliver and all the team that we’re following this. Huge adventure and bagels, cream cheese and salmon for breakfast! You all deserve a great climb and descent. We’re cheering for you.
Posted by: Stephanie and John Smith on 6/10/2019 at 3:15 pm
Great job everyone!! Keep kicking ass!! Hope you all are enjoying to the fullest
At high camp, I had a dream about eating cheesy hash browns and eggs. This morning, that dream became a reality. We ate breakfast burritos, lunch burritos, and dinner burritos. We lived a life of luxury that was not possible at 17,000 feet.
We also came up with a plan for the coming days.Tomorrow, half the group will walk out towards base camp and a flight towards Talkeetna. The rest of us will stay here at 14 just in case we have a summit window within the next few days. The forecast is calling for light winds this weekend, which has us hopeful. Regardless of what happens, we will certainly be eating more burritos.
RMI Guide JM Gorum and Team
Food sounds tasty! I’m glad I won’t be in the tent with anyone who loaded on the beans. Lol! Glad some of you are able to stay and try. Here’s to great weather. Nice photo of excellent ice cutting shelter. Go, go, go! But, step safe
Friday, June 7, 2019 10:18 PM PT
Greetings all!
A beautiful sunny day, finally! We woke to sun and were only interrupted by some quick snow showers during the dinner hour. We were able to fully complete our move to 14k Camp this morning by heading back down and retrieving our cache at Windy Corner at 13.200’. We were up and at em early and were back at Camp a little after noon, in time to nap and rest, and finish up our day with some fixed line practice.
Tomorrow, we’ll rest! It’s an important rest day as we continue our acclimatization process in preparation for our future travels to upper reaches of this grandiose mountain. We’ve got big plans for big meals, big naps, and possibly a trip to take in the views at the ‘Edge of the World’. We’ll report back and tell you all about it tomorrow! Til then, good night!
Robby, Nick, Joe and Team Pebble Beach
Steve, It’s great to follow along. I wish you guys the best and stay safe. See you when you get back my friend. .
Posted by: Al on 6/10/2019 at 10:50 am
Stevie
We hope you make it to the top of the mountain. We hope you will have enough food and get lots of rest. We hope you make it down the mountain safe. We miss you a lot and we love you!
Friday, June 7, 2019 - 7:17 PM PT
We woke up to a calm and clear morning. The air was significantly warmer at the 4:30 am wake up call. A perfect day to get camp packed up and moved to 11,200’. The Team has seen all but the last three hours during our cache day. Leaving the snowshoes on our sleds we climbed up the Kahiltna glacier in crampons and made excellent time. Our goal was to beat any afternoon thunderstorms that had been rolling over Kahiltna Pass the last few afternoons. We pulled into camp shortly after 1 pm feeling the altitude and heavy pack/sled combo. I can hear some snoring from some as they nap in the heat of their tents. Others are reading and organizing their gear. Everyone in this group is doing well with the heavy loads and rapid swings in weather. Tomorrow we will get an early start so we can retrieve our cache at 9,300’ and then the remainder of the day will be our first “active rest” day. Light clouds are moving into camp but we still have great views of Kahiltna Dome and the West Buttress of Denali, the namesake of our climbing route.
RMI Guide Mike King
Thursday, June 6, 2019 11:56 PM PT
We woke up this morning and looked uphill at the summit again. We watched as winds increased up high. We watched a few teams leave camp and turn around before Denali pass. We looked at our dwindling food. We looked at our rapidly filling poop cans. When we added it all up, we decided that it was time to leave high camp. Four nights at 17,000 feet can seem like an icy eternity, but the team actually managed it quite well. There was nothing in the forecast that made us want to stay any longer, so we left. We’re back at 14 camp now, which seems like a beach resort in comparison. Some folks have decided they have had their fill, and some want to sit it out for a few more days, potentially trying again. Tomorrow we will flesh out our options and make a plan. For now, we are excited for the best nights sleep we’ve had in a while. We’re excited to eat something other than freeze dried food. We’re excited to be able to wear fewer than three jackets to bed.
RMI Guide JM Gorum & Team
Wise choice given the conditions you described. For those who want to try again, I hope you make it. Stay warm, and step safe. What a beautiful photo!
Posted by: Susan Moore on 6/7/2019 at 9:24 pm
Whatever choice you make, you’ve accomplished so much Brittni (and everyone else!). Diligently checking the blog daily; sunny Colorado is rooting for you!
Thursday, June 6, 2019 10:06 PM PT
Greetings from 14,000’!
For the first time all trip, the weather was better than forecasted! We took full advantage early this morning, walking into the clouds for only a brief time before we were basking in the sun above 12,000’. It was a smooth move day up here to 14 Camp. We arrived early afternoon with plenty of time to completely set up camp, take naps, and then indulge in a veggie curry dinner. It was great to see our RMI friends JM and company as well as a plethora of other guides from other walks of life. It’s truly a city of friends up here at 14 Camp and our team is ecstatic to be here, especially given the squirrelly weather we’ve had over the last week. We’re all in the sleeping bags now, as it gets cold quickly up here; but we’re amped and ready to go back and pick up our windy corner cache tomorrow morning and be reunited with all of delicious lunch food and larger huge variety of meals. We’ll keep you posted on our progress.
Robby, Nick, Joe and Team ‘Clean Plate Club’
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Brit—
Congrats to you for a long, challenging and incredibly successful climb!
We could not be any more happy for you and the other climbers.
GREAT JOB!!
Tom and Becky
Posted by: Tom and Becky on 6/11/2019 at 8:29 am
Congratulations to all the team quite an achievement ;;well done beautiful photos beautiful clear skies ;my French man is right behind you guys they did a gear climb to camp 5 return to camp 4 .monday 10 th June ;so maybey a summit attempt in the next few days ; his satellite connection is not great so i have been following you guys ;;nice job;;;
Posted by: tracy mccall on 6/11/2019 at 1:51 am
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