June 19, 2017Denali remains unseasonably cold for June. This actually works in our favor for the lower camps. The cold days allow us to wake up a little later to move camps or cache before the sun comes out and bakes us.
We successfully completed our mission for the day, which was to go back to our last camp and retrieve some food and gear that we left cached there. We couldn't have asked for better travel conditions with perfect weather and a great path stomped through the deep snow. We completed our task with enough time for second breakfast and an afternoon nap. This mountaineering stuff is rough!
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
June 19, 2017 9:06 pm PST
Conditions were perfect at 1 AM for beginning an early morning transit of the Kahiltna Glacier. Skies were clear and the snow surface was beginning to freeze good and hard -just the way we like it for traveling crevassed terrain with heavy packs and sleds. We got stoves going and began to dress for success. The team set out at precisely 4AM and marched down the SE Fork of the Kahiltna to its junction with the main glacier -we banged a right turn and started our climb. The glacier didn't have much good snow from the winter, so plenty of crevasses were exposed and needed crossing, but with the good freeze, the crossings were easy and uneventful. We saw ample evidence of climbers having come through in soggy, hot and heavy conditions, poking legs and bodies into the dark cold depths of the glacier. We took hourly rest breaks and accomplished our move in just under five hours total, pulling into 7800 ft just before 9. Then in calm sunshine, we set to work building camp. T
Tents went up and once all work was finished, we dove in for naps, escaping the ridiculously intense midday sun. By early evening it was tolerable outside once again and we met for dinner under the shelter of our dining tent. Forecasts for the day had called pretty definitively for new falling snow, but our reality was a pleasant summer day. We'll gladly take another day of this "storm".
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
June 18, 2017
It was overcast and gray in Talkeetna this morning when the team got in for a 7AM breakfast, but we were optimistic in any case. Things had brightened just a bit by the time we assembled in the K2 hangar, but the word was passed that fog on the glacier surface would keep planes out of Basecamp initially. We drank coffee and fidgeted with our gear for a bit. Then we loaded the planes. Then we fidgeted a bit more. Then it was time to fly and we got our boots on. We hastily texted friends and loved ones as our two big beautiful De Havilland Otters taxied out to the runway. We were off! But then the fog came back over Basecamp and we did a u turn and landed in Talkeetna. We texted, we drank more coffee and then we loaded up for real. The flight in got markedly more dramatic and spectacular as we entered the Alaska Range. Before we knew it, we were setting down perfectly on skis on the SE Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. There were about a hundred climbers assembled, ready to fly home and so it was a busy scene. We were very pleased to shake hands and give hugs to the two RMI teams finishing their adventures with Jake Beren and Tyler Jones. Then we set to building camp and reviewing safety procedures for travel on the lower glaciers. We'd stop every now and then to stare in wide eyed wonder at massive Mt Foraker and vertical Mt Hunter, towering over us. Dinner, some story telling and some packing completed our big day. We turned in at 8 PM with the sun nowhere remotely even close to the horizon. We'll get up early -weather permitting- and make our move in the cool of morning when the glacier surface is firmer and safer.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
June 18, 2017
Well folks, I'm happy to report the view is indeed gorgeous! We got a little later start today due to some inclement weather, and it turned out to be the right call. Rolling out of camp at 8, the skies had cleared and we were blessed with views of Kahiltna Dome and Mt Crosson. I'd be lying if I said it didn't make the walking a little easier! That and the fact that we opted to cache gear at our last camp and do a back carry tomorrow. So, with light loads and beautiful surroundings, we were happy to roll into Camp 3 at 11,000' and make an extra kush home for the next few days. Joe Horiskey would be proud! We're now all tucked in and prepping for another light day acclimatizing and making the trip down to 9,600' to retrieve the rest of our belongings.
Good night from Camp 3!
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
Awesome reading about your daily travels. Stay safe (and thinking about Lance and Caleb on this journey) :)
Posted by: Tina Kyllonen on 6/20/2017 at 9:31 am
Glo, what a wonderful father day present to hear your voice from Denali, the great one! Our thoughts and prayers are with you as your journey continues, be safe, love u, pa
Yesterday we converged at baggage carousel #1 in the Anchorage airport... having come from far and wide to form our Denali climbing team. A commute with Denali Overland and our driver Bill brought us into Talkeetna, Alaska by 9 PM. Today we got down to brass tacks and started preparing seriously to go on the mountain. It wasn't all drudgery as our first official team meeting was conducted over a fine Roadhouse breakfast with plenty of good hot coffee. Introductions were completed in time for our mandatory National Park Service Orientation Slideshow at the Talkeetna Ranger Station. We were reminded that it had been a tough season for weather on Denali, with only 30% of climbers making the summit so far. Indeed, we'd begun the day walking the streets in steady rain. By midday when we headed for the K2 Aviation hangar, things were beginning to look up. We conducted a thorough check of each climbers gear and clothing as big stretches of blue sky too over. We kept looking toward the Range as we went through sorting tents and ropes and food for the group, but the big peaks stayed well-disguised in the murk and cloud. By early evening the loads were in order and weighed for hefting into airplanes. The work done, we headed back into downtown Talkeetna for dinner at the bustling Twister Creek. It is high season for tourism in Alaska. We all relaxed a little and made final preparations for "getting on" in the morning. Getting on a plane, getting on a glacier, and getting on a climb.
With a little more improvement in the weather, we'll be on our way.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
June 17, 2017
We've made it! To Camp 2! It was early, it was snowy, and it was sloggy but we made it! We left camp at 3:45 this morning to stick with our nocturnal schedule and to avoid the post holey conditions. Lucky for us the snow had firmed up and the walking was primo. The visibility on the other hand was little to none, and our only views were those of the rope teams in front of us. We made a few discoveries along the way, for instance uphill travel is much easier without your sled break on! After a few more hours, the occasional bump in the road, and a fair amount of pressure breathing, we pulled into the white expanse of Camp 2. I wish I could tell you views were beautiful but I'll have to wait until the sun comes out! We're now all cozied up in our tents, enjoying some R&R, before a tasty meal of Horiskey Mac and Cheese!
The memories of the slow ascent of Ski Hill are already fading and we are setting our sights on moving to 11,000' tomorrow. Spirits are high and backs are strong!
Until tomorrow,
RMI Guide MIke Haugen and crew
June 17, 2017 1:43 pm PST
Hello from the upper airstrip of Denali Basecamp. We made the arduous descent from high camp in snowy and windy conditions down to 11,000ft last evening. We unfortunately did not get a break from the weather... WINDS.
Today we had a very alpine start to climb down to base camp in the cold of early morning in order to reduce our chances of breaking through snow bridges on the lower glacier. We were able to do just that! After arriving we were told the normal runway was to bumpy and crevassed. The whole team finished strong up the bonus hill to the upper runway. The weather continues to follow us here in The Alaska Range as I type this blog the fog and mist hold strong for the moment. When the clouds part we will be on the first planes to Talkeetna and on our way back from an amazing trip with lots of learning, and humbling moments. We have learned that the Summits are for our ego and the Journey is for our soul. The mountain is not going anywhere and we can always come back as long as we play safe in the mountains.
High hopes for flying back to reality!
Cheers,
RMI Guide Tyler Jones
June 17, 2017 1:26 am PST
Hi, everyone. This is Tyler Jones and the Denali team. We moved out of High Camp and we're back at 11 Camp. We are hoping to go to the air strip sometime tomorrow. Hope all is well. Everything's good here. Talk to you all soon. Bye.
RMI Guide Tyler Jones
I’m so sorry that the mountain and the weather didn’t cooperate with you guys, but I am sure it was still an amazing adventure. The girls are talking about climbing Whitney this year.. .are you up for it? Well, maybe after you rest for a couple of days :)
You are still amazing in every way! Still my hero, my knight in shining armor! I love you so very much and I can’t wait to see you!!!!
xoxo MO
Posted by: Amanda Gunn on 6/17/2017 at 9:47 am
Tym, Tyler, and Team,
You may be too close to home to even get this. So sorry the weather did not cooperate. There were reports of snow, snow, and more snow. I know how hard everyone worked and wanted this to happen. I am confident you made strong, life-long bonds with your team who share your love of climbing. And for you Tym, three’s a charm…so maybe next year! Best wishes for a safe trip home.
Love, Mom and Zeppelin
Posted by: Kristi Kennelly on 6/17/2017 at 8:54 am
June 16, 2017 11:35 pm PST
Well everyone, we hung on as long as we could at 17 Camp. We woke to high winds and blowing snow and waited patiently for them to dissipate. They did not. After dragging our feet in vain, still hoping for some workable weather, we finally began our descent back to 14 Camp. Arriving around dinner time, the team wolfed down what could (hopefully!) be our last Mac and Cheese meal for a while and racked out for what will be a few short hours before we head downhill for this season.
While we did not stand on top of Denali this year, we are lucky to have tried and happy to be heading home none the worse for wear. It has been a real treat to all climb together and we will be checking in from further down this beautiful mountain. Wish us good luck and fair winds on the last legs of our adventure, it ain't over yet...
RMI Guide Jake Beren
Waiting to hear you all arrived safely at base camp and are flying back to hot showers and a good meal! Praying for you Steve!
Mike and Pat
Posted by: Mike and Pat Lurakis on 6/19/2017 at 9:48 pm
Steve. A disappointment for sure. What do they say about mountains - getting to the top is optional but getting down is mandatory. Denali denied you the top so be safe getting back down. Safe travels .
June 16, 2017 10:02 pm PST
Greetings from Camp 1 on Denali!
Today the team took an early morning stroll up the Kahiltna, only mildly inconvenienced by absurdly large packs and sleds packed with all the supplies as food we'll need for the next several weeks. Traveling with so much weight takes some getting used to, and everyone is doing a great job adapting to the new systems in play. We arrived at the base of Ski Hill in a heavy snow fall, but after a much needed afternoon nap the sun came out and we were able to get a good view of our spectacular surroundings.
Tomorrow, weather permitting, the plan is to walk uphill some more! With any luck, we'll be checking in from 9,600' tomorrow night.
In Horiskey we trust,
RMI Guides Mike Haugen, Pepper Dee, and Gloria Roe
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Good weather and safe travels!!!
Posted by: Christina perez on 6/19/2017 at 9:45 pm
Hi Hans, Anja, all climbers and guides,
I try to send you sunny weather from Germany!!!
Good luck and full energy for all members…
Ute
Posted by: Ute Novak on 6/19/2017 at 11:18 am
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