Entries from Expedition Dispatches
Posted by: Linden Mallory
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Buenas tardes from Plaza de Mulas, the Base Camp on Aconcagua's western side! Plaza de Mulas sits on a big rocky glacial moraine, near the eastern side of the amphitheater that makes up the head of the main Horocones Valley. Sharp summits surround us in every direction, the deep red color of the mountains here occasionally interested with striations of yellow and grey. Most of the peaks still hold snow from last winter snowpack and fields of penitentes - sharp snow spires that form from the intense sun - are emerging in the snow patches that still reside in the shallow gullies running alongside Base Camp. The panorama is framed by the massive cliff of glacial ice of Horocones Superior to our north and the hulk of Aconcagua rising immediately out of camp to our east. From this low on the mountain the majority of our route is obscured from view by the scree covered flanks running into camp, but far above us the steep cliffs that guard Aconcagua's twin northern and southern summits occasionally emerge from the clouds. Despite the relatively non-technical nature of this route, we still found ourselves craning our necks to look up at the mountain from Camp.
After reaching camp we quickly set up our tents and unloaded our gear that came in by mule. It was a relief to see that our gear made it unscathed after bouncing up the valley on the back of what seemed to be semi-tamed mules (whatever you do, don't stand in the trail and play chicken with an oncoming mule train!). With our camp established we explored around camp a bit before settling into our tents for some R&R right as the afternoon clouds spit a few sporadic snowflakes down on us.
The team is doing well and we are all very happy to be up high, finally eyeing the route above us and contemplating the next few days. If weather and acclimatization hold strong, we hope to carry a portion of our gear and supplies needed for the upper mountain to Camp 1 tomorrow. The sun is just starting to sink behind the ridge lines that separate us from Chile and the temperatures are getting chilly as we head off to dinner. We'll check in tomorrow after our day.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory
As planned, we took a break from mountain climbing today. We rested primarily to catch up on hydration and acclimatization before our assault on high camp and the summit. But since today's weather was a little on the sloppy side, with clouds at all levels, some falling snow and hints of wind aloft, it wasn't a bad day to be taking it easy at low camp. We ate, drank, rested, read, watched TV and listened to music. The teams that went to Vinson's summit yesterday came through on their descent to base today. All seemed well and happy, and of course relieved that they'd gotten to the top before this particular pulse of inclement weather came through. We will just hope it is gentle and short lived. We'd like to move up tomorrow.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
It sounds like you have a great team and hoping weather will be on your side to make it to the summit. Here we are all singing “they’ll all be home for Christmas"so God speed. Love, Deb
Posted by: debby on 12/15/2013 at 4:24 pm
We all agreed that carrying a load of food, fuel and gear 2500 vertical feet up the fixed lines was hard. It was steep (both going up and coming down) it took a long time (7 hours round trip from low camp) and it was sometimes too hot and sometimes too cold. It felt a lot like mountain climbing. Today we had crampons on our feet and axes in our hands, unlike the last couple of sled dragging days on the low angled approach glacier. So all around, it was pretty tough, but we did it. We got those unreal Antarctic views as we got higher, spawning questions like "Is that ice way out there or is it cloud?" (It was both). Our hope, of course, is that by doing such tough work today, by going so high (11,800) and by coming back down to sleep and rest through tomorrow, we'll be stronger, more familiar with the route and better acclimated to the altitude. That may be, but at any rate, it sure was fun climbing today. It was a little cloudy which seemed to hold some heat in the air, making things a bit easier. The two teams above us apparently made the summit today, which is great, we'll see them tomorrow on their descent.
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
Congrats to the team after such a heavy effort and I hope you get time enough to rest! Supporting you all the way to the summit!
Love to Fatima,
Peter
Posted by: Peter Williamson on 12/14/2013 at 7:24 pm
WOW! Very impessive!! Great job!!! Fred K
Posted by: Fred Klingbeil on 12/14/2013 at 6:22 am
Posted by: Casey Grom, Solveig Waterfall
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador
Hi Everyone!
We are enjoying a relaxing evening here at the beautiful La Casa Sol near the city of Otavalo.
We left the comforts of Quito this morning and headed into the mountains (where many of us actually feel more comfortable!) for our second acclimatization hike. As we watched the city disappear in the rear view mirror we traded well paved roads for cobblestones and washboard. The van bumped along, and our driver skillfully negotiated the hazards of rural driving... while we all fought the urge to hold our breath and cross our fingers. Maybe we should have, because our luck soon ran out and Friday the 13th delivered us a logistical sucker punch.
With a loud crack, our vehicle let us know it was done going uphill for the day. A dislodged cobblestone had broken the axel and stopped us, quite suddenly, in our tracks.
Fortunately, our group has the perfect easy going attitude, and after getting the baggage and van transfer sorted out, we shouldered our daypacks and set off for some slightly more oxygenated exercise. Nearly three hours and five miles later we arrived at the trailhead!
One of our local guides, Esteban (nicknamed Topo), had been busy reorganizing our logistics while we strolled, and he and a few others arrived to our rescue shortly thereafter in shining Toyota Hilux's.
Delivered safely to our hacienda we enjoyed a delicious dinner and are now all busy packing our gear and getting organized and prepared to tackle our first big objective. Wish us luck as we travel towards Cayambe tomorrow!
RMI Guide Solveig Waterfall
On The Map
Finally with all of our gear, we left Mendoza this morning and headed for the mountains. The tree-lined streets of Mendoza gave away to carefully tended vineyards that produce the famed Malbec wine for which Mendoza is known. The road led into the foothills of the Andes, weaving along the edge of the thick red Mendoza River. The small hills soon grew to tall mountains and the road began passing through tunnels carved through the rock in the mountain sides. By midday we reached the ski outpost of Penitentes, a handful of kilometers from the Chilean border. Penitentes, no more than a few buildings with long slanted tat break the incessant winds, is a ski resort in the winter and a staging ground for Aconcagua climbers in the summer.
We spent the afternoon in Penitentes preparing our gear for the mountain. We set up and checked our tents, fired up the stoves, and packed our food and fuel into tight, well protected containers to endure the jostling of the mules on the approach to Base Camp. Once our loads were prepared, we ventured up the valley to Punta del Inca, a famous natural bridge created from geothermal springs that spans the entire river. Decades ago visitors would drive their cars across it. We ventured a bit further up the road to the mouth of the Horocones Valley where we caught our first views of Aconcagua since reaching Mendoza. Capped in clouds and new snow, the mountain's impressive south face loomed over the head of the Horocones Valley. It was an impressive, exciting, and humbling moment.
We are settled into our Hosteria now, enjoying the thin cold air, and happy to finally be in the mountains.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory
How come your going up the Mulas side as oppossed to the Vacas valley?
Posted by: Randy Christofferson on 12/14/2013 at 10:17 am
Posted by: Casey Grom, Solveig Waterfall
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador
Elevation: 15,000
Hello again everyone
Today we had a very nice hike to help with our acclimatization on a nearby peak called Pichincha. It is one of the many local peaks that is situated above Quito and is used by many climbers to help adjust to the higher altitude here in Ecuador. We made use of the gondolas to help us gain access to around 12,500 ft then hiked the additional 2,500 ft to the summit. It took our team roughly 3 hours to gain the top after a little scrambling up the final bit to reach our high point thus far. It was a personal high point for a few of us, and the entire team did a fantastic job. After spending a bit of time on the summit and getting are photos we descended all the back to our hotel for a brief nap before dinner.
Everyone is in good spirits and looking forward to tomorrow.
RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew.
On The Map
Posted by: Linden Mallory
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Reaching Mendoza, Argentina proved to be a tougher challenge than we anticipated for our team. Between cancelled flights, storm systems, and mechanical delays we all finally reached Mendoza, albeit a day late. Tom, Thomas and I happened to be on the same plane from Santiago to Mendoza and we had a stunning flight over the Andes with views north and south down the range. A fresh layer of snow blanketed the higher elevations of the mountains and Aconcagua stood tall above the surrounding peaks, it's summit trailing a thin cloud on its leeward side.
When we stepped off the plane in Mendoza the temperatures were 70F and sunny, the austral summer in full swing with green trees lining the tarmac - a striking difference from the cold temperatures that we left at home! Unfortunately, the relief about reaching Mendoza was quickly muted when Tom and Thomas' bags failed to appear. Undeterred, we filed our paperwork and were assured that the bags were on the next flight. So we headed into Mendoza, found our hotel, took a nice shower, and kicked back to share stories while we waited. And we waited, and we waited, and we waited...
The next morning found us back at the airport looking for a little more information on where the bags could have gone. The answer: Paris, France. It turns out that while we were hoping to head to Aconcagua's Canaleta, the bags had something more like the Champs Élysées in mind. Even in the days of barcodes and instant tracking, it still takes awhile for lost baggage to find it's way across three continents from Europe to the U.S. and finally Argentina. We made the most of the extra days in Mendoza to get the rest of our team gear organized, secure our climbing permits, catch up on rest from the flights, wander Mendoza's tree-lined streets, and enjoy a glass or two of Malbec while hanging out in some of Mendoza's outdoor cafes.
Finally by 5pm this evening the last of the missing bags reached Mendoza. We've enjoyed our time in town, but are eager to head to the mountains. Tomorrow morning we will make the drive into the Andes to the small outpost of Penitentes, wedged just south of Aconcagua National Park and a handful of miles from the Chilean border. We'll sort our gear there and spend a night or two acclimatizing before we head into Plaza de Mulas, Base Camp on Aconcagua's western Ruta Normal. We will check in tomorrow night from the mountains!
RMI Guide Linden Mallory
We busted out of Base Camp today. Just over five hours of walking up the Branscomb Glacier put us at "low" camp, which isn't all that low at 9300 ft above sea level. Half way along the route we picked up our cached supplies and equipment from yesterday's carry. We were alone for our day of climbing, since the other teams in our rotation have about four days head-start on us. One of those, a German team, made the top today in a speedy ascent. They were early enough in the day that they came all the way back down to low camp. So we have neighbors. The other two teams are still at high camp hoping to get a shot at the summit tomorrow. We had great conditions for coming along directly under Vinson's giant western face, and we had perfect and unobstructed views of Mounts Gardner, Epperly and Shinn. Camp was built quickly and easily and after a filling dinner, the team retired to bask in the strong, late night sun. We'll get that sun until at least three AM, but then, while it is behind the mountain, our teeth will be chattering until 11 AM.
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
Larry
No one, I mean no one, can keep you down! See a mountain (that is 16,000 feet or higher) and Larry will be climbing it!! You are the poster-child for the next edition of “Younger Next Year”!!!
Please encourage those guides of yours to send some up close pics. We all want to see determined and smiling faces!
So neat to hear how well things are progressing!!
Stay safe and united!!!
Fred K
Posted by: Fred Klingbeil on 12/13/2013 at 3:39 pm
It’s chilly in southern California but nothing compared to where you all are. Keep warm. What an adventure you are having. Larry, can’t wait to hear all about this trip. Love, Mom
Posted by: Gerri Seaton on 12/13/2013 at 11:16 am
Posted by: Casey Grom, Solveig Waterfall
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador
Hello from Quito everyone!
After some very long flights the team has arrived safe and sound here in Ecuador. We started our day with a group meeting where we shared a little about each other and discussed the plans for our expedition. We then headed out on a city tour which was mostly spent visiting the colonial old town and it's many churches built in the 17th century. We also visited the Virgin de Quito, which is a statue that overlooks the entire city and is similar in importance to our Statue of Liberty.
After our tour we headed back to our hotel to allow the team some time to rest before meeting and discussing the gear needed for our upcoming climbs. After making sure everyone was well equipped with the essentials we took a short walk to a nearby restaurant and patiently waited for all of our food to arrive. The food was delicious and everyone left with smiles on their faces.
It looks like a great group of people and everyone is looking forward to stretching their legs tomorrow.
RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew
Brian,
Safe travels my friend and I wish I was with you! Enjoy the views for me!
Klay
Posted by: Klay on 12/16/2013 at 11:43 am
HI Brian
have a safe and fun time! We missed you at the Easterday family Christmas gathering!
Marcia and Dave send their best!
xo
Posted by: Kim on 12/14/2013 at 7:50 pm
We are back to great weather on Vinson. There was still a little wind apparent up high during the morning, and a few fog banks forming and dissipating down below, but by mid-day one could only describe it as "splitter". Perfect blue sky, big bright sun and no wind... splitter. Team 2 had a fine breakfast at Vinson Base and then we settled into a light training and review session. Bill, Sara, Fatima and Larry each have fine climbing resumes, so it was only necessary to run through some quick examples of crevasse rescue and anchoring systems to refresh memories. In the afternoon we went for our shakedown cruise: a carry of food and gear to half camp. It was great to stretch legs and get some views of the surrounding humongous peaks. We were back to Base by around 7 PM, in time for dinner in the strong evening sun. We turned in for bed confident that the sunshine would keep tents warm well into the night. Sometime after one or two AM the sun will go behind the mountain and life will get cool, but by then we'll be sleeping... Dreaming of the move to low camp tomorrow.
Word is that the Ilyushin is flying to Union tonight, so Team 1 (Kara, Juan, Piotr, and Spencer) should have breakfast in South America. Bon Voyage.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
Larry and the gang: Glad to know the weather is cooperating and hope it continues. What tales you can tell us when you return. Best wishes to all! Gerri S.
Posted by: Gerri Seaton on 12/12/2013 at 5:18 pm
Larry and Crew
Great to hear how your expedition is progressing so well! Hope the weather continues to be good. Excited to hear how your safely and successful move up the mountain!! Keep each other warm and best of success!!!
Fred K
Posted by: Fred Klingbeil on 12/12/2013 at 6:35 am
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Sounds breathtaking. Keep it up, glad the equipment arrived intact!
Posted by: Nanook on 12/16/2013 at 7:57 am
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