Entries from Expedition Dispatches
The group was up early this morning, despite encountering the coldest temperatures of the trip thus far - our water bottles lightly icing up even in the teahouse. However, we quickly shook off the cold within a few minutes of starting off, warming up as we walked out of Lobuche. An hour's walk brought us to the edge of the Khangri Glacier, a tributary flowing into the main Khumbu Glacier just to our side. We climbed up the moraine of the Khangri and began the weaving traverse over its rock strewn surface, climbing up and down over the uneven terrain. Part way through we reached a high point and we're treated to fantastic views further up the valley, even catching glimpses of the tents at Everest BC.
By late morning we reached our teahouse at Gorak Shep, the last cluster of buildings before BC. We paused for a cup of tea and after refilling our bottles we set out to climb Kala Patar, a rocky outcropping that sits across the valley from Everest. The team climbed very strongly, the benefits of our acclimatization over the past ten days clearly visible, and within a couple of hours we reached Kala Patar's prayer flag strewn summit. At 18,500' Kala Patar has phenomenal views looking down over Everest BC and the Khumbu Icefall as well as to its summit, the Hillary Step, South Summit, South Col, and part of the Lhotse Face. In addition to Everest, we could see over the Lho La Pass to Changatse in Tibet as well as south down the valley, picking out the peaks of Tamserku, Katenga, and Ama Dablam which we walked past earlier.
Despite the clear skies and amazing views the winds were blowing strongly and we were forced to raise our voices to be heard over the fluttering prayer flags. The temperature was quite cold with the wind and before too long we set off back down the trail, returning to Gorak Shep where a late lunch of soup and tea helped rewarm us.
We've spent the remainder of the afternoon relaxing in Gorak Shep. We had a great day and are thrilled to have had such great weather and views from Kala Patar. Tomorrow we cover the final stretch to Everest Base Camp where we will spend a couple of nights sleeping on the ice in RMI's Everest Expedition camp. We will check in tomorrow from BC.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory
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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest BC Trek
Hey RMI this is Linden Mallory calling from the Everest Base Camp Trek and Island Peak Team. I am calling from Gorak Shep up here at about 17,000’ along the edges of the Khumbu Glacier. This is the last town before we reach Basecamp tomorrow.
It’s an absolutely gorgeous night here in the Himalaya. We had a wonderful day today we left Lobuche early this morning and walked up the valley crossing over the Tonkhu Glacier which is a little tributary glacier from the main Khumbu Glacier. We arrived into Gorak Shep about mid morning.
Our main objective for the day was a climb of Kala Patar. It’s across the valley from Everest about 18,500’. After arriving in Gorak Shep we grabbed some tea, filled our water bottles and set off. The team climbed phenomenally well. It was really quite impressive. All the time we spent acclimatizing certainly paid off in spades.
We got up to Kala Patar by mid day and we just had incredible views across the valley of Everest. We could see the summit, Hillary Step, the south summit, all the way down to the South Col. Looking down on the upper portion of the Lhotse face. We could also see over to Lolok Pass over to Xingatzi which is sitting in Tibet. It was pretty neat to be able to see over the boarder. We could also see down the valley toward Ama Dablam and the peaks that we walked by the first few days of our trek.
So after hanging out up there for a little bit we motored back down to our tea house here in Gorak Shep and spent the afternoon just hanging out and resting and adjusting to the altitude. 17,000’ is definitely pretty high and we are all feeling it. Again the team is doing really well and we are all having a great time.
The plan tomorrow is to leave Gorak Shep and walk the final couple of miles into Basecamp and set up shop there for the next couple of nights.
We will try to push out some photos. The connection this high up the valley is spotty at best but I’ll do my best to get some photos and more write ups out to you guys. If not we’ll check in tomorrow from Basecamp. Take care.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory checks in from Gorak Shep
On The Map
Hey Bill and Sarah,
Lisa gave me this link to your blog. Really enjoying following along. It brings back great memories of my trek into base camp. I gave Lisa a prayer flag that I brought back from Nepal to hang at your house until your return. I’ll be praying to the weather gods for good weather for an ascent. Keep safe and warm. Can’t wait to hear more.
Clay
Posted by: Clay Rolader on 4/3/2011 at 5:41 am
Hi Tim! I have finally been found by the chest cold that everyone has had. Papa and I are a few days into it. I am totally living through your notes and pictures! I can imagine the cold clear air as you take each rest step. Sounds like you are with a wonderful group! I just adore Linden’s descriptions. I almost feel as if I were there. Please thank him for that. Honey, I love you and miss your sweet face every day. I go in the closet and smell your shirts! Pathetic, I know! I don’t care! I will be paying my bills sometime today, and then looking at making your boat and building payments. Every one is making this as easy for me as possible. Tom has checked in, skip and cass have both been here. You are missed! I love you! A&F Deb
Posted by: Deb McLaughlin on 4/2/2011 at 10:21 am
Howdy from Pheriche.
Today we walked in bright sunshine out of shady Deboche, crossed the river and cruised into Pangboche. There we met with Lama Geishi, the
trusted and friendly high lama that so many of the Sherpa climbers revere. Lama Geishi was very kind to bless our Everest team... he wished us each luck, gave us prayers to bring to the summit of the world, and tied ceremonial red strings around our necks that we'll each keep on for the duration of the trip. I've had a number of meetings with him through the years, and he has always welcomed my teams... but we were definitely worried that he might not be able to see us this time. The word was out that he'd just been released from the hospital in Kathmandu. Sure enough, he smiled as he acknowledged the serious nature of his illness. He laughed in telling us (with Lam Babu acting as interpreter) that just a week before, he hadn't thought he'd survive.
We left Pangboche and quickly left behind the world of trees... entering instead the land of rock and ice as we turned the corner toward the North and Pheriche. It is significantly colder now and the animals are mostly rugged four-wheel-drive yaks these days whereas down lower they were mostly cows. We are all feeling great and are ready for our first night at 14,000 ft. Nearly the height of Mount Rainier.
Best,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
I hope you are getting my e-mails Mark and Karen. Saw your birthday this am when I got on the computer. That was great of you Karen. Sounds like you are headed for the base camp now. What an experience meeting the Lama. Lots of prayers are for you all. Love Mom
Posted by: Cornelia Miller on 4/2/2011 at 7:54 am
Bill has always dreamed of a meeting with the Lama! He has had a limetime search for total consciousness. Don’t forget to bring some home.
Posted by: Henry G on 4/2/2011 at 7:43 am
The other guests in the teahouse joined us in singing Mark a Happy Birthday last night when Ang Nuru brought out the chocolate cake. Blowing out the candles, Mark served us all delicious slices of cake, a nice treat before we turned in for the evening.
This morning again broke calm and clear, the shadows keeping the temperatures brisk until the sun climbed high enough to peek over the mountains surrounding mountains and reach the valley floor. Leaving Pheriche, we climbed up the gentle valley bottom, passing dozens of yaks grazing among the stunted bushes. Several yak trains came streaming down the trail, the yaks unburdened by their loads left at Base Camp and eager to descend to the better pastures around Pheriche.
By late morning we finished the climb up to Thukla Pass where the trail climbs from the valley floor up the terminal morraine of the Khumbu Glacier - the giant pile of debris several thousand feet tall that was pushed forward by the Khumbu Glacier as it descended from the higher peaks above. The pass, not a true saddle but a shoulder we pass over that gives access to the shallow valley that runs along the side of the glacier, is also where dozens and dozens of chortens and memorials have been erected over the years for climbers, Sherpa and Western alike, who have lost their lives in the peaks above. Standing among the chortens and streaming prayer flags while gazing out at the surrounding peaks above is a sobering yet spectacular sight and we all took a moment to ourselves to sit there and appreciate it.
Continuing on from Thokla Pass we ascended a shallow valley that sits between the mountains to the west and the lateral morraine of the Khumbu Glacier - the debris pushed along by the sides of the Glacier. We reached our teahouse in Lobuche by early afternoon and withdrew from the chilly breeze and harsh sun of these altitudes, sitting in the dining room and gazing out at the peaks across the valley. Lobuche is quite rustic compared to the villages below, formerly a summer grazing area for yaks and now also home to a few teahouses for trekkers and climbers. At over 16,000' it is also very high and we spent the afternoon relaxing in the teahouse, sipping tea, reading, and giving our bodies time to adjust to the new elevations.
The team continues to do well, we are all having a great time and excited to be so close to Everest Base Camp. Tomorrow we will move to Gorak Shep, the final village before BC and if the weather is good make an afternoon climb to Kala Patar, an overlook at over 18,000' that give us views over BC and to Everest.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory
The much celebrated 3G phone service is not so robust down here in the Rhododendron forest at 12,400 ft above sea level, so please pardon the slight lapse in trip coverage as we pass through these benighted zones. All is well with Bill, Sara, Dave and Lam Babu Sherpa. We moved easily up from Namche yesterday, enjoying very light traffic on the trails. We seem to be a few days ahead of most of the big Everest teams and we conveniently flew into Lukla during a brief weather-window that few trekking groups were able to take advantage of, so the end result is that we have this part of the gorgeous Khumbu Valley to ourselves. Conditions have mostly been cool and cloudy, although we've been granted grand views of Everest and Lhotse and Ama Dablam. The temps have been perfect for walking and we took advantage yesterday by cruising up the 1,700 ft Thyangboche Hill in one continuous push. A couple of cool and fizzy drinks out in front of the palatial Thyangboche Monastery and then we completed the day by descending a few hundred feet to Deboche. Last night was an easy one as we enjoyed a fine dinner in a comfy wood-stove heated dining room.
The McGahan clan showed each other how to beat the stuffing out of their climbing guide at Yahtzee and then we each turned in for the night... beginning to delight in the loft of our expedition sleeping bags. We'll spend tonight here as well, letting our bodies catch up to the altitude and enjoying a last day (for the next eight weeks) among trees.
Best,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
Missing you so much, but looking forwars to many stories and memories. Take lots of pictures and give stuff away. We just want you back i one good healthy peice! I love you so much and cant wait to have you in my arms again! I miss you touch and your smell!
Always and Forever! Deb
Posted by: Deb McLaughlin on 4/2/2011 at 3:46 am
WOW! Tim you rock! We’ve been looking at the pictures—what an amazing adventure. Stay safe, have fun, feel the place, and be prepared to come home and tell us every detail. We are living the dream, vicariously, through you! MaryLou
Posted by: MaryLou Bailey on 4/1/2011 at 10:08 am
Despite moving to 14,000' yesterday, we all slept soundly in Ang Nuru's lodge here in Pheriche and the clear morning revealed the stunning panorama of peaks that we find ourselves amidst. With a day to hike and acclimatize here around Pheriche we left the teahouse and began ascending tight switchbacks up a ridge to the north of the village. Quickly gaining altitude, we were able to catch our first views of Island Peak, known locally as Imja Tse as we looked to the east up the Imja Khola valley below us.
Standing proudly around Island Peak rose Makalu, Baruntse, Ama Dablam, Lhotse, and Lhotse Shar, creating a grand panorama surrounding the mountain. Focusing our attention back on the trail, we continued uphill, eventually reaching the rocky outcropping Nangkar Tshang at over 16,500'. It felt good to push our bodies to these new altitudes and the team climbed wonderfully, moving smoothly up and back down the steep hillsides above Pheriche. As we stood on the summit, looking out at the views around us and watching the clouds gradually roll up the valley from far below, three Himalayan Eagles soared past us. It was an incredible sight to see, these massive birds playing in the thermals at such altitudes. We watched them fly back and forth before gradually moving up the valley.
We returned to the teahouse in the afternoon, just as the clouds rolled in. Legs tired after a solid day of walking, we kicked back in the dining room and relaxed for the rest of the afternoon. Today is Mark's birthday and unbeknown to him Karen has convinced Ang Nuru to prepare a birthday cake up here for him, we are looking forward to surprising him with it this evening.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory
Great pictures! Exciting to follow your journey everyday. Be safe, my love to you and Sara
Posted by: Phylis Whitehead on 4/1/2011 at 3:46 am
Nice to see you looking good . we love the pictures. happy to see you are having fun. keep safe,
love,
Scott & Annette
Posted by: Scott & Annette Sanders on 3/31/2011 at 8:28 pm
Leaving Deboche this morning we walked through the last of the rhododendron and pine trees of the Khumbu, climbing higher into the valley where only small shrubs and juniper grow. We crossed back over the Dudh Kosi river on a narrow bridge and walked past rows upon rows of Mani stones and chortens, eventually reaching the small village of Pangboche. There, we paid a visit to Lama Geshe, the renown spiritual leader. Chanting in his native tongue of Tibetan, he blessed us on our journey into the mountains, writing a letter to Chomolungma, the goddess of Everest, requesting safe passage for us. Finally, laughing a deep soulful laugh each time he pronounced our anglophone names, he strung a small red string and then kata scarf around our necks, before wishing us good luck.
The day remained clear and we had wonderful views of Ama Dablam soaring above us as left Pangboche, climbing further up the valley towards the impressive south face of Lhotse. Eventually, we reached a split in the valley, where the rivers diverge, one coming from Island Peak and the other from Everest's Khumbu Glacier. Following the Dudh Kosi towards Everest, we climbed up and over a shallow pass on the trail before dropping into the village of Pheriche. There Ang Nuru, a vibrant and energetic sherpa happily welcomed us into his teahouse, making us comfortable in the wonderfully decorated dining room.
In the afternoon we strolled over the the Himalayan Rescue Association's Pheriche Clinic and listened to a discussion on altitude by the western doctors here. Tim bravely volunteered to climb into the Gamow Bag, a portable hyperbaric chamber, where the staff of the HRA pumped it up and brought Tim down to an elevation of less than 9,000' below Lukla where we started the trek. It was a quick ascent back to 14,000' when he emerged!
The team is doing very well and excited to be here. Tomorrow we are going for a day hike above Pheriche and then returning to the teahouse to celebrate Mark's birthday. We are sending our best to everyone at home.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory
On The Map
Good luck McGahan’s, and have a fun, safe climb. My best to Bill, and good luck on the projects Sara
Dan Catan and family
Posted by: Dan Catan on 4/2/2011 at 9:14 am
HAPPY 50th BIRTHDAY DAD! I hope y’all are having a gorgeous day on the mountain. I’m so proud of you! Love, Chelsea.
Posted by: Chelsea Miller on 3/31/2011 at 12:02 pm
Hi, my name is Sara for those of you that are reading this that don't know me, I am 16 years old, and a sophomore at The Westminster Schools in Atlanta, Georgia. I started climbing when I was 12 years old, and since then I have climbed Kilimanjaro, Elbrus, Aconcagua, Rainier, Denali (Mt. McKinley), and a bunch of other mountains.
I like climbing for a number of reasons. I like training for climbing because I know that when I am doing it its with a goal in mind. I love the people I meet when I am climbing, and hearing all their stories and experiences. I have also been able to travel to a lot of different places like Tanzania, Argentina, Russia, Australia, Nepal, and the states of Washington, Alaska, and Colorado. Its really interesting and fun to go to all these places, and to see different people and cultures.
While on this climb I am working on two different projects for classes at my school:
1. For science, I am measuring heart rate and blood oxygen levels at different altitudes of 4 people (including myself) to study the effects of high altitude. I am taking readings using a small finger device and doing it twice a day. As we move up to higher and higher altitudes its interesting to see how peoples bodies react to the altitude, and how they change as the body starts to acclimatize.
2. Right now I am in the Northern part of Nepal and Tibet is just over the border in China. The Dali Lama is openly held in very high regard here in Nepal, but pictures of the Dali Lama are forbidden in Tibet. For English I will be talking to people about the current situation of the Dali Lama in Tibet, their views on this situation, and any impact its had on climbing near this border and on the villages close to the border.
As I write this I am sitting in an internet cafe in Namche, Nepal. Namche is the center for trekking and climbing in Sagarmatha National Park. Today we took a hike from Namche, which is at about 11,200 feet, up to the villages of Khumjung, Khunde, and Syangbouche. The views from these villages are truly breath taking. Some of the men in the villages work as porters and sherpas (guides for climbers and trekkers), and the rest of the people are farmers. Our group stopped half way at the Everest Hotel to have a coke, and we sat on the terrace with clear views of Everest, Lotse, Ama Dablam, and lots of other huge mountains. Really, it is one of the most beautiful places in the world.
Sara McGahan
I have a 5th grade student that is very interested in Everest. His goal is to climb Everest. I would like to have someone that has climbed Everest to come to talk to my class about their experience. Please contact me at 828-507-0899 or .(JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address). My school is located off Holcombe Bridge Road in Roswell.
Teresa Bayne
Posted by: Teresa Bayne on 10/28/2016 at 6:34 am
Good Luck Sara!!!!
Our Thoughts and Prayers are with you.
You go girl!!!!!!
Tripp, Mary Zack, Karen and Peter H’Doubler
Posted by: The H'Doubler's on 5/16/2011 at 5:32 pm
The low lying clouds lifted overnight and the landscape was a brilliant white this morning, yesterday's fresh snow reflecting the morning sun with such intensity we found ourselves squinting when merely sitting near the teahouse windows. Over breakfast we looked out up the valley, across the rhododendron trees and roofs of Deboche all covered in snow, to the summits of Everest, Lhotse, and Ama Dablam above. The winds continued to whip the summits of Everest and Lhotse, both peaks flying long white plumes from their tops.
With a relaxed agenda for the day, we wandered through the trees of Deboche to the small convent here where two of the nuns happily showed us inside of their gompa, doing their best to answer our various questions about the paintings, relics, and scriptures inside. We then climbed back up the hill above our teahouse to the Tengboche Monastery, admiring the panorama around us, with views from Namche all the way up to Everest. Following a small path above the Monastery, we climbed further up the ridge, passing lines of chortens and strings of prayer flags strung by the monks, until we could look down on the buildings below.
With the afternoon clouds already building, we spent a few hours in Tengboche visiting the small museum and outlying buildings of the Monastery, reading, sipping tea, and swapping humorous stories. At three in the afternoon several monks blew their horns from the front terraces of the Monastery, signaling the beginning of afternoon prayers. We quietly removed our shoes and found a seat around the edge of their prayer room, listening to the half dozen monks present recite their prayers, their deep voices rising and descending in unison, pausing occasionally - and all at the exact same instant - to sip their tea before continuing on. The chamber, incredibly decorated with murals, ornate paintings on every surface, and a two-story Buddha surveying the scene below is an overwhelming room, contrasting sharply with the muted colors of the Khumbu. It is also freezing cold and by the time we emerged into a lightly falling snow we were chilled to the bone. We hurried back to our teahouse as the clouds again settled in around us, grabbing our coats, filling our cups with tea, and settling in around the stove when we arrived.
It has been a very relaxing day, offering us the chance for incredible views of the mountains around us, glimpses of the ongoing religious life here, and time for our bodies to continue to acclimatize and adapt to the new elevations before we move up the valley to over 14,000' tomorrow.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory
On The Map
Go Bill and Sara, we’re with you!! Braves win the opener 2 - 0. Chipper doubles in his 1st AB and Hayward homers!
Posted by: Henry G on 3/31/2011 at 3:52 pm
Hi. This is Bill blogging from Namche, Nepal.
I started climbing with my daughter Sara about 3 1/2 years ago when she was just 12, and since that time we have had many adventures together. I love climbing, but even more so, I love spending the time with Sara, who is now 16. When we are at home in Atlanta she is so busy and I never get to hear about all the things that go on in her life every day. So while we are climbing, and over meals, or watching a movie or TV show on her itouch, I get to hear all the funny things that happen on a daily basis. For example, I just learned all about the social importance of 'threads" on Facebook, and the song with the line "the best 30 seconds of my life" (if you don't know what song that is, that's probably a good thing!).
So this past week has been fun. It takes a lot of patience to fly from the states to Kathmandu, with the layovers, cramped planes, visa lines and time changes, so its a big relief to finally get to a hotel room and start to work on your jet lag. Its been about a week, and I think I am finally over the 10 hour change.
The flight from Kathmandu to Lukla is quite an adventure, which starts with getting up in Kathmandu at 4:30 am and then literally fighting your way through a mosh pit of folks in the airport. It's actually great fun if you keep it in perspective. And of course, the 45 minute flight up to the mountains through a saddle into the very short landing strip (on a twin prop, specialized short takeoff and landing plane) is intense. If you have any doubt, go to youtube and search "lukla airport" and check out the clips. The strip is only open for brief spurts every morning due to the clouds, so you have to be on the 1st flight, hence the mosh pit.
There are two ways to get to Lukla, flying or walking, and the walk takes days. So, the main way (really the only way) is to fly in. All goods used by the many villages in the mountains get flown in. Then, once into Lukla, porters pick up all the goods and carry them up the trail. The trail is filled with porters carrying 70 to 80 pound loads on their backs, some the size of refrigerators. Most everything gets to the towns in the mountains makes it way there on the backs of the porters (or yaks or donkeys). All of our bags going to base camp are carried by these porters, and it takes them about 7 to 10 days to get up to basecamp. The porters climb from an altitude of about 9,000 feet, down to about 8,000 feet, and then all the way up to nearly 18,000 feet. Its just amazing what they do.
The "tea houses" that we stay in are really beautiful little lodges. They are made of stone (cut up here from the sides of the hills). The rooms are simple but clean, and the common dining room serves delicious food. We are eating so very well, and with dishes that we are accustomed to - pizza, chicken, steak, french fries, eggs, pancakes, etc... and these dishes - combined with the RMI condiments - have been great. We are buying bottled water along the way, but the bottles are getting more and more expensive the further we go.
Our climb so far has really consisted of getting into Namche, the center for all trekking and climbing in this area. The "Namche hill" is a 2000 foot hill from about 9,000' to 11,000' just before Namche that takes about 2 hours to climb. It was raining yesterday when we were ascending, so our biggest challenge was dodging the puddles and the yak dung along the way (not to mention the yaks which also have considerable loads on their backs).
This morning we awoke early to climb above Namche to get our first vies of Everest, Lhotse and the other massive mountains in the surrounding area. After a half hour trek at 6:30 this morning we were rewarded with perfect views. Everest had its tell tale plume of clouds streaking off the summit as it pierced the jet stream. It looks quite daunting, perhaps because it is.
Our trip is led by Dave Hahn, who is not only an insane climber, but one of the most down to earth people you will ever meet. He breaks it all down to seem so simple, and he makes me (and Sara) believe that all we have to do is take this adventure day by day, and climb by climb. This coming from a man who has summitted Everest 12 times, more than any non-sherpa in the world. If I were him I would be at least a little boastful, but he never is. And he seems to know everyone along the trail, at the hotels, and in the shops. Its one big mixer for Dave as we head to base camp!
So today is a rest day, and quite a beautiful one. Sara and I are going to break out Yatzee and the deck of cards. The goal today is to continue to have our bodies adjust to 11,000 feet while remaining strong and sickness free. Rest days are my strongest days in the mountains!!!
Thanks for following our climb.
Bill McGahan
(Photos by Expedition Leader Dave Hahn)
The pictures get more and more breathtaking and the blog makes this so real. So proud of you!
Posted by: Mom / Grandma on 3/30/2011 at 10:48 am
MORE PICTURES!!!! I am so excited to read your blog! It makes it so much more real! thanks and keep us posted! xo,lynn
Posted by: Lynn Crow on 3/30/2011 at 9:07 am
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Hi Tim! I am missing you so much, but in a good way! LOVING the dispatches and pictures! I hope you are keeping a good journal so you can tell us EVERYTHING! I can’t wait! Everything is good at home. I have had the crud, but am feeling MUCH better today! Piss and vinegar coming back. HA! Bridger misses your warm lap at night, and so do I! Have done 2 commission checks and didn’t screw up! Yay me! I should be helping you pay company bills. Once in a while! :) I adore you and look forward to the 16th! But, I want this good experience to last for you. You are living your dreams! I couldn’t be more proud of you!
Posted by: Deb McLaughlin on 4/4/2011 at 12:14 pm
I am fine since tooth pulled—Dad left his message kinda hanging. Yesterday, Sat., 4/2/11 AM the sun was shining, bright blue skies so I jumped in my hot tub clothes, went outside and promptly turned around and headed back in the house!! It was extremely cold and windy—What a wimp! How did I ever birth a child who actually LIVES for cold and windy!!!! Ha—Cudos to you, Timmer. Stay safe all of you. I depend on them to take care of my son—Yeah, I know, nuff Mom talk. Love ya, Mom
Posted by: Mom Mac on 4/3/2011 at 12:22 pm
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