Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Mt. Rainier: American Lung Association School Day

July 18, 2012

Posted by: Win Whittaker, Pete Van Deventer

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

The American Lung Association's Climb for Clean Air team had a beautiful day in the snow above Paradise. They learned some important skills to help them reach their goal of reaching the Mt. Rainier summit and also had a lot of fun.

North Cascades: Jake Beren & Team Training on Shuksan

July 18, 2012

Posted by: Jake Beren

Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades

RMI Guide Jake Beren called to check in from Mt. Shuksan. They are at high camp enjoying warm temperatures. With this team's later goals of Mt. McKinley, Jake is teaching them all the necessary skills that will help them attain this goal and will finish the week with a summit bid on Mt. Shuksan.

Mt. Rainier: July 18th Summit!

July 18, 2012

Posted by: Seth Waterfall, Mike Walter

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

Our Four Day Summit Climb team led by Mike Walter and Five Day Summit Climb team led by Seth Waterfall made it to the summit of Mt. Rainier today. The teams reported clear skies above 6,000’ and light winds from the west. The teams have started their descent and are en route to Camp Muir. Congratulations to today's summit climbers!

Elbrus Expedition: Mallory & Team Enjoy St. Petersburg Tour

July 18, 2012

Posted by: Linden Mallory

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Elbrus Southside

We enjoyed a leisurely day in St. Petersburg on our last day in Russia. From our hotel we walked the several hundred yards to St. Isaac's Cathedral, climbing the 211 steps to the Colonnade that offers sweeping views of the city below. Built in the early 1700s, Peter the Great designed St. Petersburg after European cities and the city is often referred to as the "Venice of the North". Dozens of canals wind through the city, connecting to the Neva River running through the heart of St. Petersburg. From the Colonnade we could see over the rooftops of the city's early fortress, it's palaces and government buildings, and its beautifully restored churches. Descending from the Colonnade we made our way to the Church of our Savior on Spilled Blood, an ornately decorated Church built over the stones where Tsar Alexander II was stabbed. Although built on a gloomy premise, the church's interior is incredible, with intricate, colorful mosaics covering the multistory interior. Lastly, we visited the Hermitage Museum, Russia's largest museum and home to over 4 million pieces of art. While the artwork matches any museum in the world, the building alone, built by Catherine the Great, is worth the visit in itself. Stretching out along the banks of the Neva, each room and hall is decorated in it's unique style. After dinner (an excellent seafood restaurant) we climbed on board a boat and toured St. Petersburg's canals, winding through the buildings, under the roads and bridges, and along the Neva. Many of us leave early in the morning for flights home. It's been a great trip through Russia to Europe's highest peak, and we are looking forward to sharing the stories and photos with all of you at home. RMI Guide Linden Mallory

Mt. Rainier: July 17th Update

July 17, 2012

Posted by: Mike Haugen

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

RMI Guide Mike Haugen led his team to the Mt. Rainier summit via the Disappointment Cleaver Route this morning with beautiful weather and a slight breeze. The team began their descent at 10:00 a.m. RMI Guide Jason Thompson was leading his team on the Emmons Route on the northside of Mt. Rainier. Due to firm conditions and a cloud cap developing on the mountain, the team had to make the tough, but more importantly, safe decision to turn at 12,500'. They will stay at Camp Schurman tonight and descend the mountain tomorrow.

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

To Steve D. on Emmons-

I was following you on SPOT and saw a turnaround. Then I came here to the blog and read about the cloud cap developing. Bummer!

-Larry Seaton

Posted by: Larry Seaton on 7/17/2012 at 3:45 pm

Good luck Mehok brothers!!

Posted by: Mike Mehok on 7/17/2012 at 12:23 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Descended 8,000’

July 17, 2012

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Solveig Waterfall

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 8,000'

Back down at 8,000 ft on the Kahiltna Glacier. We packed things up at 14K this morning with the usual mix of clouds and clearing. Nobody was looking upward any longer even though the peak was out. Our focus became getting down safely. We went into the clouds and murk as we came around Windy Corner. Walking in fresh powder with big packs and sleds was a challenge, but we were able to find the remains of a packed trail under the powder for much of the day. We took a good rest at 11k as we dug up our cache there and switched out crampons for snowshoes. Travel on the upper Kahiltna was much less complicated than the steep hills we began the journey with. We found excellent glacier conditions and even came out of the clouds a little below 10,000 ft. At the base of Ski Hill we set a quick camp, had dinner and dove in the tents for a few hours of rest. We'll give the glacier surface a chance to freeze up hard before we aim for the airstrip in the morning. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Mark, well done to you and the entire team for this endurance test. Sometimes the weather wins in this business. Your team fortunately had the best leader out there to give it the best shot, and still get you back safely. Aconcagua on my radar, and would be proud to do that with you some time in the future. Bill

Posted by: Bill Hill on 7/18/2012 at 7:45 pm

Dr. K -
I guess this means we’ll get to see you in class next week! Sorry to hear the summit remains elusive, but that just means it would like to invite you back for another expedition :) May you have a safe journey back to the airstrip and to Santa Barbara, and we all look forward to seeing you next week.

Soulful love,
O-Track

Posted by: O-Track on 7/18/2012 at 7:05 pm

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Elbrus Expedition: Mallory & Team in St. Petersburg

July 16, 2012

Posted by: Linden Mallory

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Elbrus Southside

We left the mountains this morning, piling all of our gear into the back of our van and following the small, twisting road out of the Baskan Valley and into the farmlands surrounding Mineralnye Vody. The fields of sunflowers were in full bloom and the day was clear enough that we could see Elbrus off in the distance. Thanks to the upcoming winter Olympics in nearby Sochi they have recently finished renovating the Mineralnye Vody Airport and it was an easy process to get checked in, even with all of the excess baggage and climbing gear. Before long we were airborne, flying north across the country. We arrived in St. Petersburg in the early evening under grey skies, where the temps are far cooler than the planes to the south. We navigated the crowded streets of the city to find our hotel before heading out into the city for a nice dinner at a nearby cafe. It's been a long day of traveling and we are happy to be here. St.Petersburg has a very different feel than Moscow and the Caucasus Mountains and we are looking forward to seeing the city. We are spending tomorrow, the last day of our trip, exploring St. Petersburg. RMI Guide Linden Mallory

Mt. Rainier: July 16th Summit!

July 16, 2012

Posted by: Kel Rossiter, Walter Hailes

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Summit Climb teams led by Kel Rossiter and Walter Hailes reached the Mt. Rainier summit this morning in cold temperatures and windy conditions. With a cloud layer settled in at Camp Muir, the team enjoyed clear skies on the summit. Congratulations to today's summiteers!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Thanks, Kell and the rest of the RMI guides, for getting my boy up and back safely.

Posted by: Bryn on 7/17/2012 at 8:07 am

Congratulations to Steve, Brad and your fellow climbers. I can’t wait to hear the details at our next TEC meeting.

Posted by: Nancy Johnshoy on 7/17/2012 at 7:08 am

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Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Focus Changes

July 16, 2012

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Solveig Waterfall

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

Another night, another snow storm. This morning as we got the stoves fired and the POSH pit dug out once again, it was clear that our summit chances had slipped away. That was all that was clear... the day was much like the night, clagged in and snowing. We had a team meeting at breakfast and a retreat from 14,200 ft was proposed. Rather than merely waiting for a break in the weather to head up onto the West Buttress, we are now back in the uncomfortable position of having loaded avalanche slopes blocking our ascent. They'd need that tedious and time-consuming process of cooking in the (seldom seen) sun and stabilization and careful evaluation... all over again. And we won't have resources for that if we are to devote a little food and fuel to getting safely down and off the mountain. Folks expressed their disappointment at not getting to see the mountaintop, but also their recognition that we simply hadn't gotten a break from sloppy weather. Something had to give. We are going down, but we aren't exactly finished climbing yet. We still need an easing of the current snowstorm and then we'll need a strong and focused team to negotiate the terrain that took a week of careful climbing on the way in. Perhaps the night will pass without a new storm and we'll be able to begin working toward the airstrip tomorrow. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Cathy: we know that you are disappointed not been able to go all the way!!!! We know you could have made it. But, we are happy that you had a great adventure!!!! Your little soon to be niece/nephew is excited too!!!!!!

Love, Kae and Caroline

Posted by: Kae on 7/17/2012 at 5:24 am

Brian and team, I can only imagine how disappointed y’all must be, but you accomplished far more than most people will ever get a chance at. The experiences and memories of your time on McKinley will last a life time. Plant the flag and take the picture (still a great shot). We are looking forward to your safe return and beautiful pictures. We love you , RB, TB & CB

Posted by: Robin, Tristan and Connor on 7/16/2012 at 8:20 pm

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Mt. Rainier: July 15th Summit!

July 15, 2012

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

The American Lung Association Summit Climb reached the summit this morning with lead guides Gabriel Barral and Elias de Andres Martos. They endured wind gusts and cold temperatures on their ascent but the weather calmed down some as they began the descent from the summit. We expect the teams to be leaving Camp Muir early afternoon. Congratulations!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

I wondered who those people in the picture were, and why the banner said 2003, now I know… Wonder what happened to our picture? What a great trip!!!

Posted by: Jen on 7/20/2012 at 12:49 pm

Congrats to you all!!
The image from 2003 brings back some fond memories

Posted by: Stu Allen on 7/16/2012 at 9:21 pm

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Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Mt. Rainier: American Lung Association School Day

North Cascades: Jake Beren & Team Training on Shuksan

Mt. Rainier: July 18th Summit!

Elbrus Expedition: Mallory & Team Enjoy St. Petersburg Tour

Mt. Rainier: July 17th Update

Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Descended 8,000’

On The Map

Elbrus Expedition: Mallory & Team in St. Petersburg

Mt. Rainier: July 16th Summit!

Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Focus Changes

On The Map

Mt. Rainier: July 15th Summit!

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