Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Mt. McKinley: Okita and Team Arrive at 11,200’ Camp

May 22, 2011

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

Getting to 11,200' camp today came easily as we sported some very reasonable pack loads, having left a majority of our food and fuel at 9600', which we'll be picking up tomorrow morning. To make things even better, we were able to walk into a camp that some folks had left, leaving us free of the tiresome chore of building camp from scratch. I guess the day started out on a good note with a special breakfast of toasted bagels, cream cheese and smoked salmon. Although the weather started off snowy and cloudy, as we approached the corner leading to 11,000', the sun came out and things cleared allowing us to enjoy the incredible vistas around us. Although the weather up higher on the mountain has apparently been rather unwelcoming, we have been doing OK. We're looking forward to another fairly easy day tomorrow before we don the crampons for our carry to 13,500' in a couple of days. RMI Guide Brent Okita

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Smiles for miles!!!

Posted by: Carole on 5/23/2011 at 6:13 pm

Wow, Steve - incredible! The entire S&H team, headed by your loving spouse, is rooting for your successful (almost effortless) summit, praying for you guys every step of the way and is awed by you guys! Be safe and keep us posted - Cheers, Wendy

Posted by: wendy st charles on 5/23/2011 at 1:59 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Billy Nugent and Team Resting at 14,200’

May 22, 2011

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Wulp, here we are. Day three pinned down at 14,200' by winds up high on the buttress. Last night we weathered gusts in excess of 55mph but it hasn't trampled our spirits. The forecast is calling for a significant calming trend that looks like it might be our window for a summit attempt later this week. Anyhow, we've been enjoying the sun and are passing the day grazing in our tents. Tomorrow will certainly see some activity with the improving weather; most likely a carry to stock our high camp with some food and fuel. Wish us luck! Signing off,

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Hope the weather improves and you can keep climbing.
Drew, Delta misses you and ate Dad’s steak this week. She is clever. She pulled the steak out of the pyrex dish w/out even knocking it over. Poor Dad ended up w/ knockworst for dinner that had been in the freezer for 8 weeks. She is getting plenty of walks. Take care and enjoy!! Love you.

Posted by: Shirl on 5/23/2011 at 4:15 am

Michael, the weather is turning sunny and warm here at home, hopefully it is for you and your team as well! We are anxiously awaiting news that you have reached the summit! Cavin says hi! Love you!

Posted by: Brenna & Cavin on 5/22/2011 at 9:35 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Update from Mike Walter & Team

May 22, 2011

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

Well, the weather through us another curve ball. We were all set to move to high camp this morning, but we had 50 mph wind last night, along with snow. I was up at 5:30 this morning, checking the weather, and it was still blowing ~50mph up on the ridge. We were all up early, and had breakfast, in preparation to break camp. But the winds have been persistently high all day; and we're still waiting to move up. The good news is that the latest weather update has light winds forecast for this coming week. We're optimistic and hope to move to high camp tomorrow. RMI Guide Mike Walter

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You must be so happy the weather is cooperating, you guys deserve your chance to summit. Be careful and remember to leave enough for the way down! We want you home safe and sound. Your family eagerly awaits you….Megan

Posted by: Megan on 5/23/2011 at 5:42 am

Woo hoo! The summit is near! Way to go guys!

Posted by: melinda on 5/23/2011 at 2:09 am

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Mt. Rainier: May 22nd - Summit Climbs on Top

May 22, 2011

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

RMI Guides Jake Beren and Andres Marin checked in at 7:45 a.m. PST to report they were just a few minutes from reaching the crater rim of Mt. Rainier. The teams were experiencing lights winds and cool temperatures with a cloud deck below around 7,500'. The teams enjoyed some time on the summit before starting their descent to Camp Muir.

Mt. McKinley: Brent Okita & Team at 9,600’

May 22, 2011

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 9,600'

The weather cooperated today allowing us to finally take in the incredible views to be had on the Kahiltna glacier. Which was nice given that we opted to make a single carry up to our camp at 9600', and at least the views helped distract us from carrying loads that were heavy beyond belief. But we all made it to camp by mid afternoon, appreciative of the fact that this was to be our last single carry for the trip. From here on, we'll be making double carries, that is, making two trips to every camp we establish and carrying only half our loads at a time. Tomorrow we'll be moving up to 11,200' and establishing camp there, but we'll leave a fair amount of our food, fuel and assorted other personal equipment not needed for the next couple of days here at 9,600'. We'll pick this gear up the day after tomorrow. This will allow us to spend longer acclimatizing at 11,200' in preparation for our move later in the week to 14,200' camp. Leon, Maile and I were impressed by the group yet again as they took to the job of getting camp set up like pros. And this after a grueling day's climb. What a great team. We are all looking forward to getting up to 11,200' tomorrow! RMI Guide Brent Okita

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Mai, I love you, mom

Posted by: ginny myers on 5/23/2011 at 9:19 pm

Hi Mai and all,

Sounds like things are going well. Will keep my fingers crossed that the wind will die down. Lindo made it!!!! isn’t that great… Be safe and have fun xoxo mom

Posted by: ginny myers on 5/23/2011 at 9:17 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Garhart Check in from Camp 4

May 21, 2011

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

This is Solveig and Billy checking in for our team here at Camp 4. This morning we awoke to improving conditions but still not good enough to make our carry up the fixed lines. We have been enjoying sunny skies and light winds down here in camp. Social hour began after breakfast and we've spent the better part of the day getting to know our neighbors here in camp. We also spent some time getting rigged up and practicing for the fixed lines and running belays. We hope the night will bring decreasing winds and we will be able to head uphill tomorrow. RMI Guides Solveig Garhart and Billy Nugent

Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Optimistic to Move to High Camp

May 21, 2011

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

We're still at Camp 4 waiting for the winds to subside up high. The weather is pleasant here at camp. The forecast looks promising for us: summit winds decreasing to 30 mph by tomorrow. Hopefully we can move up to high camp tomorrow and be in place to make a summit bid the next day, or soon thereafter. Everybody is doing well and we're all eager for the opportunity to climb. RMI Guide Mike Walter

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Hey Ken, Glad to hear that the wind is subsiding. We hope that you are doing well. All is going well here. The restaurant has been busy but Rick, James, Starsha and Britt are doing a great job. Met with Jim today about painting. Eric is coming to help him. Ally is great but is missing you. Take Care..climb safely, enjoy the journey…Love Cathy & Ally

Posted by: Cathy Young on 5/22/2011 at 2:23 pm

Keep warm, stay sharp, climb strong.

Posted by: Merianne on 5/21/2011 at 10:06 pm

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Mt. Everest Expedition: Dave’s Thirteenth Everest Summit

May 21, 2011

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest

RMI Guide Dave Hahn summits Mt. Everest for a Record Thirteenth Time. On May 20th, 2011, Dave Hahn, Linden Mallory and their Sherpa team stood on the summit of Mt. Everest on a clear and beautiful day. Congratulations! The team has safely returned to Everest Base Camp.

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Congratulations to everyone. I was disappointed that Sara and her dad didn’t summit but she has a whole lifetime to try again. I’m glad you’re back to Base Camp.

Posted by: Sue Eilers on 5/23/2011 at 7:02 am

Hi Dave….and hi there LINDEN! Congrats to Dave on #13…but a special high five to Linden for #1 on Everest. Very happy for you.

Steve from Team Kuwaz- Kilimanjaro

Posted by: Steve di Costanzo on 5/23/2011 at 5:28 am

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Mt. Everest Expedition: Off the Lhotse Face

May 21, 2011

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest

Elevation: 21,000'

Update at 2 p.m. Nepalese Time (2:13 a.m. PST) The whole team is now off the Lhotse Face and headed toward Camp 2. Time to take a deep breath and figure the big part of the climb is over. Still have the Icefall tomorrow morning but like where we are at. Yeah! RMI Guide Mark Tucker

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Linden, you are the second Mallory to reach the top of everest; congrats. You’re the top!

Posted by: b lee on 5/22/2011 at 6:24 am

GO LINDEN… i am proud of you cuz- great guiding!!
Be safe :)

Posted by: Shelby Herrod on 5/21/2011 at 1:36 pm

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Alaska Seminar: Jason Thompson & Team’s Last Night on the Glacier

May 21, 2011

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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,300'

Hey, this is Alaska Mountaineering Seminar checking in. Last night we went to bed under increasing wind and snow. This morning we woke up to continued snow and wind and whiteout conditions.... The sun finally peered through this evening giving us a gorgeous last sunset for our time here on the Kahiltna Glacier. Tomorrow morning will be getting our flight back into Talkeetna after a great week here in the Alaska Range. Take care.

Jason Thompson checks in for their last night on the Kahiltna Glacier

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Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Mt. McKinley: Okita and Team Arrive at 11,200’ Camp

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Billy Nugent and Team Resting at 14,200’

Mt. McKinley: Update from Mike Walter & Team

Mt. Rainier: May 22nd - Summit Climbs on Top

Mt. McKinley: Brent Okita & Team at 9,600’

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Garhart Check in from Camp 4

Mt. McKinley: Walter & Team Optimistic to Move to High Camp

Mt. Everest Expedition: Dave’s Thirteenth Everest Summit

Mt. Everest Expedition: Off the Lhotse Face

Alaska Seminar: Jason Thompson & Team’s Last Night on the Glacier

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