Entries from Expedition Dispatches

After a relaxing evening enjoying traditionally prepared foods at La Casa Sol, we awoke to a peaceful morning.  Most of the team spent some time prior to breakfast drinking coffee and appreciating our perch above Otavalo.  Following breakfast we loaded the bus and headed into town to experience one of Ecuador's finest craft markets.

The market in Otavalo is full of traditional goods: alpaca garments, woven bags, various other textiles, chocolate (Ecuador is famous for artisan chocolate) and coffee amongst a variety of other goods.  Some team members spent most of their time sipping artisan coffee.  Others used a combination of broken Spanish and hand signals to haggle with vendors.  Once we all reconvened the bus drove us to our rendezvous with the 4x4 trucks that would take us to the refuge on Cayambe.

We are now moved in and situated for the next two days.  Sunday will consist of basic mountaineering skills training review.  The plan is to wrap up early and wake up during the night to climb Cayambe.  The entire team is getting acclimated and itching to give our first big objective a go!

RMI Guide Adam Knoff

What up Doc! Today we enjoyed our first rest day. We started with a leisure breakfast followed by a visit with the Basecamp doctor. In order to continue up the mountain everyone has to get the ok from Dr. Richard. Richard checked our lung sounds, blood pressure and O2 saturation. The whole team passed with flying colors! With the ok from the doc and the team all feeling good, we sorted our gear for our carry tomorrow. We will move a bunch of gear that we don't need at Basecamp to Camp 1. Not only does this help us get all of our gear up the mountain but this will also help with acclimatization with Camp 1 sitting at over 16,000 feet. It will feel good to continue getting higher and higher up this mountain.

Hasta manana,
RMI Guide Hannah Smith and team

On The Map

Today is the day we finally pack up our chubby duffel bags, steal some chocolate filled croissants from our top notch breakfast buffet and hit the road.   Quito is a beautiful city, home to an incredible history and architecture but it is also home to 3 million people.   Buses here burp massive diesel fumes imitating tiny volcanoes and the horns are not quite a song bird, so after a few days, the country is calling.  
On this note, our team all proved they are a timely bunch being packed and ready by 7:30, so we loaded Victor’s magic bus and headed toward our second acclimatization mountain, Fuya Fuya.   If you strapped a gps on crow and flew it to the mountain it would only fly 85 miles or so but on the ground, that distance took three hours or cover.  Upon arriving in the small town of Otavalo, our bus head upward into the hills on old cobble stone roads, similar to what you would find in Europe.   Halfway to the trailhead we were stopped by a child no older that seven who had a rope tied across the road.  In a fantastic show of entrepreneurship, he engaged those tiny arms, pulled the rope tight and forced the bus to a surprised halt.  Out of pure respect for the hustling toll collector we paid him his asking price and off we went.   
Where the road ends, there is a beautiful crater lake formed by the sinking of the volcano in its last eruption.  We parked, shouldered our light packs and made the two hour hike through interesting native fauna and steep grassy slopes to the summit of this 14,000 foot peak.  Being an adventurous crew, we then traversed west along a skinny ridge to Fuya’s neighbor peak providing some fourth class rock scrambling and enjoyable steep movements.   Unfortunately the clouds decided to join the party and occlude our grand vista of surrounding peaks and the deep blue lake but overall the weather stayed dry and warm.  
An hour long descent brought as back to the bus and another hour, back to town.  Our toll collector did not greet us on the trip down but his encounter certainly provide a laugh for the rest of the evening.   
After a nice lunch we landed at La Casa Sol or the sun house, in English, where we practiced some knots, ate dinner and enjoyed a good nights rest.  Tomorrow we move up to Cayambe where things begin to get a bit colder and more real!  
More to come.   

RMI Guide Adam Knoff

Hello again everyone

We had a good nights rest last night and today just a short hike up to 15,000ft to our High Camp. It was mostly sunny today with great views of Kilimanjaro and our intended route for tomorrow’s climb.
The team has just wrapped up lunch and discussed in great detail the plan for tomorrow’s climb. Everyone knows what what we’ll be wearing, what will be in the pack, as well as the schedule.
Our game plan will be to wake at 11pm and have a quick breakfast at 11:30, then hopefully hit the trail right at midnight. The team has been doing great thus far and I’m expecting us to reach the summit in 7 to 8 hours if things go according to plan.

I’m also going to bring our Satellite phone to hopefully make a few calls from the summit.
So everyone back home please keep your phones handy and if you receive a call from a strange number please answer. We are seven hours ahead of the east coast time zone.

Wish us luck!

RMI Guide Casey Grom and the Kili crew 

On The Map

Giddy up! We woke to a chill in the air and ice where there was once a puddle of water. Today we turned off the Vacas Valley and headed up the Relinchos Valley. Several ribbons of water separated us from where we wanted to go. Instead of rolling our pants up and confronting the painfully cold water, we opted to hop onto mules and ride them across. For a brief moment we all got to pretend we were an Argentinean cowboy. Back on two feet, we spent the day making our way to basecamp. The views were jaw dropping and Aconcagua stayed in our view the entire day. Her summit calls but not just yet can we go. First we must rest from a day well done. Tomorrow we will soak in basecamp and also start preparing our loads for our carry to Camp 1 the following day.

Nighty night,
RMI Guide Hannah Smith and team

On The Map

Hello everyone

We had a slower start today to allow the many porters to hit the ever narrowing trail. Right out of camp we were faced with the only significant technical obstacle for this climb. This hurdle is the great Barranco Wall, which rises about 1,000' and looks as intimidating as it sounds. Thankfully there is a nice narrow trail that weaves its way up and through the wall and all the way to the top. Most of it feels more like steep hiking, but there are a few places that require the use of our hands to help us climb up.

The team did a good job of moving steady and allowing a few porters through with their loads precariously balanced on their heads. Which was astonishing to see!

After reaching the top we took a nice break and enjoyed the amazing views of the ice ladened south face and valleys below. The team continued our hike for a few more hours up and down through a few valleys before reaching camp.

All in all, it took only about 4 hours for us to reach our next camp called Karanga, named for the big and beautiful valley which it overlooks.

RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew

On The Map

Windy windy windy. We left Pampa de Lenas amd continued our journey up valley. What started as a light breeze grew stronger and stronger throughout the day. The wind whipped down valley creating dust clouds. Our mouths became gritty. Our skin felt rough. Our bare skin got sand blasted. It felt like tiny stings on our shins. It was as if mother nature was trying to push us away. But we put our heads down and leaned into it. Right before camp we were rewarded with our first views of Aconcagua and her neighboring peak Amigino. They look so big from where we stand. Towering 12,000 feet above us sits the summit. Fingers crossed, all the stars align and we will be standing up there in just shy of two weeks. But before that we are going to focus on our next goal, arriving at basecamp.

Talk to you all tomorrow from Plaza de Argentina,

RMI Guide Hannah Smith and team

Day Two

It is a rare blessing here in the highlands of Ecuador if we see the snow-capped summits of Cayambe, Cotopaxi and Antisana two days in a row.  Heck, I’d bet my son’s favorite LEGO set on the odds of that happening even once.  But due to abnormally clear skies, warm temps and some cashed in Karma points, we have received that blessing. 

Taking advantage of the good weather, team Ecuador Seminar enjoyed a great breakfast, packed our bags and headed out of Quito to our first “real” mountain, Pichincha Rucu.  Please keep in mind when I say “headed out”, I’m referring to a 15-minute bus ride and when I say “real”, I’m referring to a ho-hum 15,400 foot extinct volcano.  These two realities shine light on another of Ecuador’s overlooked blessings, the ability to go really high really quickly.  Not to mention a cable car which whisked us from 10,000 to 13,000 feet in a matter of minutes, making sure our unacclimatized bodies got the full effect.  

With the surreal summits still scraping the sky far off, we all hit the trail huffing and puffing but enjoying the warm sun and beautiful conditions.  Two and a half hours of steady hiking put us at the summit around 12:30 in the afternoon.  Here the temperatures changed to jackets and light gloves but not unpleasant by any stretch.  After 20 minutes on top, we headed down. 

Just as our team crushed the city tour yesterday, our first mountain was no exception.  Solid performances from every member proved we should be ready, when the time comes, to take on one of the high ones. 

Once back at the hotel everybody was set free to explore, rest, eat a guinea pig or go shopping.  We will reconvene for dinner and prepare for another mountain tomorrow.  

Stay tuned.

RMI Guide Adam Knoff

Jambo from Kilimanjaro!

Today we awoke to partly cloudy skies and descent views of Kilimanjaro looming above. Amazing to see how much new snow is on the mountain since it’s been a pretty wet winter here.

Our morning routine has been waking around 6:30 and getting everything in our tents packed up before heading into our very spacious dining tent for quite the feast.

We hit the trail once again around 8am and hiked for an hour before taking our usual 15-minute break, then back on the trail for another hour. All total today we hiked for just over seven hours before reaching camp which is set up and ready for us. Eventually the clouds rolled in and obscured the mountain for the final few hours.

Along the way we passed around the famous and beautiful Lava Tower, reaching just over 15,000ft, setting new altitude records for some of the team. Everyone enjoyed the day and there was plenty of good conversations amongst the crew.

Spirits are high!

RMI Guide Casey Grom and the crew

On The Map

The day that seemed like it would never come. The day the team has been training for for months. The day that starts it all, has finally arrived! We checked in with the rangers at the Parque Provincial Aconcagua, took a team photo, and started walking. It definitely felt good to get the legs moving after days of travel and sitting. The desert valley is beautiful. We walked along the riverside following the contours of the valley. After a few breaks and a juicy melon we arrived at Pampa de Lenas where we were greeted with snacks and juice. After our refreshments we put up camp as the wind picked up. The dust swirled around us.  One day in and we are covered in dirt and look as if we have been here longer. With tents up and filled with sleeping bags, we took an afternoon siesta before dinner. Dinner was magnificent! Tomato avocado salad, potatoes, bread, and carne asado. The salt burns the sun-kissed lips but it tastes so good. Bellies full, once again, we head off to bed happy.
Tomorrow brings another day walking in the Vacas Valley.

Buenos noches,
RMI Guide Hannah Smith and team