Entries from Expedition Dispatches
Posted by: Eric Frank, James Bealer, Jack Delaney
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,000'
Saturday, May 29, 2021 - 11:35 pm PT
Sleeping in was mandatory this morning as we waited for the sun to hit camp. Rest was the name of the game today as a storm laid siege on the mountain. Wind battered the tents with occasional snow as we all practiced the art of not getting bored. We had a delicious and grand dinner which devolved into (surprisingly well informed) debates on which Disney characters were best. The weather will hopefully improve tomorrow and we’ll be able to get up and stretch our legs.
Posted by: JM Gorum, Grayson Swingle, Henry Coppolillo
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Seminar
Elevation: 7,300'
.jpg)
Saturday, May 29, 2021 - 10:52 pm PT
The wind died down for us last night, but in its place the snow ramped up. Our hope was to try to climb one of the peaks surrounding camp, but lack of visibility and new snow avalanche concerns kept us away from big steep slopes. Instead, we opted for plan B, which was to head east out of camp and do some ice climbing on an exposed part of the main Kahiltna Glacier. It turned out to be a great venue.
Twenty minutes of walking out our front doors put us on top of a few different 60-80 foot climbs. We lowered in from the top and climbed back out. Everyone got a handful of laps in. We even put up one notable first ascent which earned the name, I Just Need a Minute to Rest(MFA), AI4, 60 feet. Due to the long approach and shifting nature of the glacier, we do not expect this route to become a classic. That’s a real shame, because it got five stars in our book. We wrapped up the day with a bunch of macaroni and cheese with bacon, and some surprisingly deep and affirming kitchen tent talks. The only way this day could have possibly been better is if we could have seen a single thing all day, but living in a whiteout is part of being in the Alaska Range.
Tonight looks to be another snowy one, so we’ll see what we can get done tomorrow. At some point we’ll need to start working our way back towards base camp. As always, everyone sends their best and we’ll check in tomorrow.
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Matias Francis, Chase Halbert
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,000'
Saturday, May 29, 2021 - 10:25 pm PT
The weather that was forecast to show up, came in the late morning. Everyone enjoyed quality tent time with movies, cards, and even some song writing. Stay tuned for the artists debut. We see improving weather conditions in the forecast, and are hoping to make some moves in the coming days.
RMI Guides Matias, Chase, Pete, and team
Praying for better weather to continue your journey. Praying for you, Luke and all of the team!
Posted by: Rae Wilson on 5/30/2021 at 7:19 pm
I have been following the blog everyday with growing excitement when you have a climbing day. Sounds like everything is going good. Be safe. Mom
Posted by: Becky smith on 5/30/2021 at 1:17 pm
Posted by: Andy Bond, Alan Davis, Ben Liken, Cal Smith, Liam Weed, Leif Bergstrom
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 12,800'
The Four Day Climb May 27 - 30 led by RMI Guides Andy Bond and Alan Davis reported pockets of wind slabs on the steeper portions of the route which forced the teams to turn around at 12,800’. They enjoyed a spectacular sunrise with great views as they descended to Camp Muir.
Photo: Andy Bond
Posted by: Mike King, Alex Halliday, Abby Westling
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 7,800'
Saturday, May 29, 2021 - 4:19 pm PT
With snow falling through the night and low visibility in the early morning we decided that a weather day at Camp 1 was better than packing up a wet camp and moving to a crowded 11,200’ Camp. We got some solar on the tents which makes for good napping. Lots of good conversations over a big breakfast of hash browns, eggs and bacon. Our plan is to move to 11,200’ tomorrow in better conditions. Everyone is doing well and looking forward to moving uphill.
RMI Guide Mike King
Take in Every moment and treasure them!!! Climb High!!!
Posted by: Dave Kestel on 5/31/2021 at 3:01 am
Love my daily update. Sounds like a delicious breakfast.
Posted by: Louise Rothwell on 5/30/2021 at 9:34 am
Posted by: Mike Walter, Avery Parrinello, Luke Wilhelm
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,000'
Saturday, May 29, 2021 - 2:54pm PT
Strong winds and lots of blowing snow have us tent bound today. The fortresses of snow walls we built yesterday are paying huge dividends, protecting the thin pieces of nylon between us and the elements. We can hear the winds roaring over the West Buttress above us, a sound that evokes images of violent ocean waves crashing onshore.
Fortunately life in our tents is relatively serene and warm.
We’re hoping for better weather in the wake of this storm; we’ll figure out our next move then. When will ‘then’ be ‘now’? Soon.
RMI Guide Mike Walter & Team
Gearing up for some good stories :) Sending good vibes for some calmer skies!
Posted by: Margaret on 5/30/2021 at 5:50 pm
Theme song for today:
WHATEVER IT TAKES!
Falling too fast to prepare for this
Tripping in the world could be dangerous
Everybody circling, it’s vulturous
Negative, nepotist
Everybody waiting for the fall of man
Everybody praying for the end of times
Everybody hoping they could be the one
I was born to run, I was born for this
Whip, whip
Run me like a racehorse
Pull me like a ripcord
Break me down and build me up
I wanna be the slip, slip
Word upon your lip, lip
Letter that you rip, rip
Break me down and build me up
Whatever it takes
‘Cause I love the adrenaline in my veins
I do whatever it takes
‘Cause I love how it feels when I break the chains
Whatever it takes
Yeah, take me to the top I’m ready for
Whatever it takes
‘Cause I love the adrenaline in my veins
I do what it takes
Always had a fear of being typical
Looking at my body feeling miserable
Always hanging on to the visual
I wanna be invisible
Looking at my years like a martyrdom
Everybody needs to be a part of ‘em
Never be enough, I’m the prodigal son
I was born to run, I was born for this
Whip, whip
Run me like a racehorse
Pull me like a ripcord
Break me down and build me up
I wanna be the slip, slip
Word upon your lip, lip
Letter that you rip, rip
Break me down and build me up
Whatever it takes
‘Cause I love the adrenaline in my veins
I do whatever it takes
‘Cause I love how it feels when I break the chains
Whatever it takes
Yeah, take me to the top, I’m ready for
Whatever it takes
‘Cause I love the adrenaline in my veins
I do what it takes
Hypocritical, egotistical
Don’t wanna be the parenthetical, hypothetical
Working onto something that I’m proud of, out of the box
An epoxy to the world and the vision we’ve lost
I’m an apostrophe
I’m just a symbol to remind you that there’s more to see
I’m just a product of the system, a catastrophe
And yet a masterpiece, and yet I’m half-diseased
And when I am deceased
At least I go down to the grave and die happily
Leave the body and my soul to be a part of thee
I do what it takes
Whatever it takes
‘Cause I love the adrenaline in my veins
I do whatever it takes
‘Cause I love how it feels when I break the chains
Whatever it takes
Yeah, take me to the top, I’m ready for
Whatever it takes
‘Cause I love the adrenaline in my veins
I do what it takes
~ Imagine Dragons
Posted by: Julie Morris on 5/30/2021 at 10:37 am
Posted by: Eric Frank, James Bealer, Jack Delaney
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,000'
Saturday, May 29, 2021 - 11:00am PT
After tucking in last night to blowing winds and less than optimal conditions, we awoke this morning to bluebird skies and generally improved weather. The team wasted no time digging out our camp and getting settled in to 14k life. Most of the day was spent making a quick lap to pick up our cache by Windy Corner and building snow block walls around the tents.The day ended shortly after 8pm.
Here in Genet Basin the temps drop quickly once the sun falls behind the nearest ridgeline and we all retreated to our tents to climb into our sleeping bags.
Thanks for following along with us!
RMI Guide Eric Frank & Team
Rob, the expedition photos are incredible. Excited for you! What an awesome challenge and reward! I’m at sea level battling 74 degree nights, 84 days, 12-17mph wind off the Gulf, Mosquitos like hummingbirds and prepping for Indy 500. Can’t wait to hear about your climb! Hold Fast! TS
Posted by: Thomas Stephens on 5/30/2021 at 7:02 am
Sounds like you battled a frigid night. Love hearing about your journey. One step at a time!
Love,
Santanas
Posted by: Allison Santana on 5/29/2021 at 6:13 pm
Posted by: Mike Walter, Avery Parrinello, Luke Wilhelm
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,000'
Friday, May 28, 2021 - 8:05pm PT
Today started out clear but cold and breezy. I’d say we picked up about a meter of snow in the past couple of days, with lots of wind transportation and deeper drifts. The winds abated and it was quite pleasant in camp today, which was nice as it afforded us time to reinforce our snow walls ahead of the storm that is forecasted to move in tonight. We’re anticipating more snow and strong winds tonight and tomorrow. Winds of seventy miles per hour are likely at high camp (17,000'). We’re at 14,000', so we expect lower wind speeds here. We’re dug in and ready for it.
The hope is that we’ll have a few days of good weather in its wake in which we can move to high camp and make a summit bid. We’ll keep you posted as this storm materializes.
RMI Guide Mike Walter & Team
Danielle I bet you don’t miss him as much as we do! The kids keep saying daddy needs to come home soon :) Love you Daddy!
Posted by: Jen Jezak on 5/29/2021 at 3:18 pm
Praying for warmer weather, NO wind and NO snow, strength, mental toughness and above all SAFETY for everyone! We are having a big party when you get back. All y’all are invited! Come visit us in Scottsdale, AZ.
Posted by: Julie Morris on 5/29/2021 at 12:57 pm
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Matias Francis, Chase Halbert
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 14,000'
Friday May 28, 2021 - 7:39pm PT
The winds and snow moved out for us today and we got to enjoy some sun and warmth in camp. We could still see winds moving quickly at times up above us on the west buttress, but it was nice to have pleasant conditions for a bit. We took the opportunity to build some truly monumental walls to protect against an expected wind event tomorrow, then refreshed and practiced our fixed line travel to prep for when the weather and conditions let us go higher.
Tomorrow is almost certainly a tent bound day, but the trend looks good for us going into next week. For now, we're happy to be acclimating and getting strong at 14,000', and to be within striking distance of our objective.
RMI Guides Pete, Matias, Chase, and Team
Go, Cram, Go! Do it for the CZ. Wishing you good luck and safe travels.
Posted by: Z (Simsbury) on 5/30/2021 at 9:46 am
It seems that there are several teams @ 14, 000 camp 3. You started out I believe, as 2nd team. do you have to wait for team one to go to the peak first? Either way God speed.
Posted by: Carter Thoenes on 5/29/2021 at 12:24 pm
Posted by: JM Gorum, Grayson Swingle, Henry Coppolillo
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Alaska Seminar
Elevation: 7,300'
Thursday, May 28, 2021 - 7:43pm PT
Today was a slow day for us on the Kahiltna. We alternated between blue skies and whiteout, and the wind blew a steady 20-30mph all morning. We made hash browns, eggs, and quesadillas for brunch, traded card tricks, and talked about a few climbing related things.
The wind has now died down, and we’ve got a little bit of evening sun. Everyone is well rested and ready to get moving around tomorrow, so hopefully the weather cooperates. That’s it from us on the lower Kahiltna, another good day in the books!
RMI JM Gorum and Kahiltna Seminar Team.
-640x480.jpg)
-640x480.jpg)
Such an exciting adventure. Go NORM! Looking forward to seeing more photos and hearing your stories. Stay safe, my cousin. :)
Kathy
Posted by: Kathy Leslie on 6/1/2021 at 4:40 pm
Ptaying you all up and down and sunny no storms, sure-footedness. Love to Norm, from Uncle Kaz too
Posted by: Old aunt Karen on 6/1/2021 at 9:10 am
View All Comments