Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Alaska Seminar: Dale & Team Make Summit Attempt, Try Out New Skills

May 29, 2018

Posted by: Christina Dale, Lucas Haaland, Alex Halliday

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Seminar

Tuesday, May 29, 2018 - 5:28 PM PT Today we awoke to some of the first stormy weather of the trip. After sleeping in a little and taking the time to make a delicious pancake and bacon breakfast we roped up and spent the afternoon climbing to Furien Col taking advantage of a good weather window. The climb was steep and involved. We used many of the climbing and anchoring techniques that we've learned throughout the week. It was fun to put our skills to use and get up to a high point. Unfortunately, no views for us because the weather rolled in and we were inside a pingpong ball. We descended from the col and are taking time to rest in our tents. RMI Guide Christina Dale

Bolivia Expedition: Frank & Team Arrive at Base Camp

May 29, 2018

Posted by: Eric Frank, Andy Bond

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Bolivia

Elevation: 14,700'

Our beach vacation on Isla del Sol came to an end today as we made our way into the Bolivian Andes to begin the mountain portion of the trip. The first of our three peaks is called Pequeno Alpamayo, located next to Condoriri. The views were amazing as we walked to our Base Camp at 14,700’, located at the base of the valley surrounded by big glaciated peaks, including Huayna Potosi (our 2nd peak on the trip). We are all enjoying the luxuries of amazing home cooked meals including having lunch today at Gregorio’s house (a local farmer) on the way to base camp. Tomorrow we’ll move camp and do some training on a glacier before our first summit attempt. RMI Guides Eric Frank & Andy Bond

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Arrive in Talkeetna, Organize Gear

May 29, 2018

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Bryan Mazaika, Nick Scott

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 348'

Tuesday, May 29, 2018 - 5:27 PM PT Hello from the RMI Denali Expedition, Team Jones! Last evening we all met in Anchorage and drove up to Talkeetna early enough to enjoy our first dinner in town and begin to get to know one another. Today, we started with an early breakfast knowing we had a lot of preparations to do in hopes of flying onto the Kahiltna Glacier tomorrow. We spent the day inspecting our gear, organizing our packs and reviewing some mountain skills like setting up our tents and how to rig our sleds we will be towing the beginning of our expedition. It’s been a busy day but the group has been managing the time well and we are ready to go! Thanks for reading our first blog and we look forward to sharing our adventure as we move along the next couple weeks! RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Bryan Mazaika and Nick Scott

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hello Nick(olas) and Team!!

Girls and I will be following along this latest adventure, Nicholas. We love you! Be safe. Blow Kenna a kiss from us, when you reach the summit!

Posted by: Elisa Moss on 5/31/2018 at 6:59 am

JEALOUS
Yes you guys rock. I wish I could have joined you. Ahh alas if you need to warm up…. join me in Fiji sailing.
Be unstoppable to the summit. Sorry Alden I’m sure you get a lot of that.

Posted by: Saxby on 5/30/2018 at 5:06 pm

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Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Place Cache and Take Rest Day

May 29, 2018

Posted by: Mike Walter, Robby Young, Alan Davis

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

Tuesday, May 29, 2018 - 5:01 PM PT Today is a rest day for our team after good long day yesterday establishing a cache at 17,200 ft. We woke early yesterday to a clear but bitterly cold morning (~ -20F), ate breakfast, packed our packs and launched. We were the first team to leave camp and the only team to continue all the way to High Camp (17,200') to establish our cache. The weather and climbing conditions were excellent, and the views were unmatched. Now we're resting, acclimating, and getting stronger in preparation for our summit bid. The weather forecast looks promising and we will likely move to High Camp in the next day or two. We will keep you posted with the latest. RMI Guide Mike Walter

On The Map

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OMG you are really getting up there. Luckily beautiful weather! Stay safe, and stay warm…..

Posted by: Marilyn Riede on 5/30/2018 at 9:42 am

What amazing luck with the weather and views! Thank you for this great update and we are happy to hear everyone is doing well! Fingers are crossed for continued great weather and a safe summit climb! Tom M, Myrna and Sheila are enjoying the updates! Be safe and we are sending big hugs!
Susan
Larkspur, CA

Posted by: Susan on 5/30/2018 at 7:21 am

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Mt. Rainier: Expedition Skills Seminar Ascends to Camp Muir

May 29, 2018

Posted by: Brent Okita, Jordan Cargill

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 10,060'

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir May 27 - 1 June led by RMI Guides Brent Okita and Jordan Cargill met their team on Sunday for a day of Technical Training at Rainier BaseCamp. They spent their first day reviewing the plan for the week, working on some technical skills and completing a thorough equipment check. With backpacks proficiently packed they ascended to Camp Muir on Monday under blue skies. They will spend the next several days working on mountaineering skills and preparing for their summit attempt later this week.

Denali Expedition: Hailes & Team Make Carry to 10,500

May 29, 2018

Posted by: Walter Hailes, JM Gorum

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,200'

Monday, May 28, 2018 - 11:49 PM PT Hello all, and happy Memorial Day! Everyone is doing quite well adjusting to life on the Kahiltna Glacier. There is a bit of basketball withdrawal going on, but besides that everyone seems happy. This morning we enjoyed a leisurely bagel and cream cheese breakfast, and packed up a bunch of our things to cache up higher on the mountain. The weather was perfect for us today. If anything it was a bit warm, but we'll take all the warmth we can get at this point. Skies were mostly clear, and the views looking back down the Kahiltna went on for miles. The team made quick work of the carry, and we made it back to camp at 7,200 well before dinner time. With a lot of our gear stashed above us, we are in great shape to move camp higher tomorrow. We'll let you know how it goes. Everyone sends their best! RMI Guide Walter Hailes

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Awesome!! Romary crew is sending positive mojo your way. It’s a privilege to be on the Kahiltna…was there 20 years ago this month. Keep grinding and enjoy every step. When things get tough, just “embrace the suck.”

Posted by: Tom Romary on 5/30/2018 at 6:31 am

Straub clan has their eyes on you…safe climbing & sunshine, amigos!

Posted by: Straub(s) on 5/29/2018 at 10:17 pm

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Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Rest Day Hang Out

May 28, 2018

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Taylor Bickford

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

Monday, May 28th - 10:47 pm PST We had a busy day of nothing. After three big days of moving a lot of gear, it was a perfect day to rest, nap, and take care of sore feet. We had a pleasant pancake brunch, then retired to the tents for naps, movies, and reading. We got out to move a bit this afternoon and refresh our climbing skills, then took that into dinner, and off to bed. Rest days are exhausting after all. Tomorrow we'll get back to work and carry a load of food and gear to 13,500' or so. All for now, RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer , Jess Matthews, Taylor Bickford, and team

On The Map

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HI Rich

Cannot get enough of the beautiful shots…hope your cold has left you by now and you are feeling healthy and ready to get this done!

Posted by: Susie and the Kids on 5/31/2018 at 5:21 pm

Ah yes, “rest” days!! I hope the sore feet (Caleb??) are healing, and that the good weather continues. Happy Birthday to Henry June 2nd - you must be “The Old Man of the Mountain” these days?! Love, Mom xxxx

Posted by: Jennifer Huntington on 5/29/2018 at 10:30 am

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Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Carry a Cache to 17,200’

May 28, 2018

Posted by: Mike Walter, Robby Young, Alan Davis

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

Monday, May 28th - 9:48 pm PST Just a quick update: We had beautiful weather today and we took advantage of it by carrying up to 17,200', our future high camp, to establish a cache. It was a long day with beautiful climbing. I'll write more tomorrow as there is still a ton to do at camp and the sun is already behind the ridge. RMI Guide Mike Walter

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Keep on keeping on Tom! Ralph and I were chatting about your climb yesterday while we wandered around S.F. with a few other souls around for the weekend. Sending positive vibes and hopefully high pressure systems bringing stable weather for your trip to the summit and back down to the thick air afterwards. And remember, don’t get stuck with the Turkey tetrazini…blech.

Posted by: Michele on 5/29/2018 at 4:55 pm

Keep it up Alexander and team!!! Proud of you and miss you!

Posted by: Becca R on 5/29/2018 at 4:54 pm

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Alaska Seminar: Dale & Team’s Moving Day

May 28, 2018

Posted by: Christina Dale, Lucas Haaland, Alex Halliday

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Seminar

Elevation: 7,300'

Monday, May 28th - 8:10 pm PST We woke up to more sunshine and the smell of bacon on the Kahiltna. After breakfast burritos browned to perfection by Lucas, we packed up camp and took off down Heart Break Hill. Named for its uphill torture on the way back to the airstrip. Everyone reported feeling "great!" after the descent. But then we started the glacier slog with heavy packs and sleds. The next break the team reported feeling "good." After another two hours the team asked, "So, where is camp?" We pulled into a perfect camp in Farine Basin and got to work excavating the glacier and flattening our sleeping nooks. Now it looks perfect for the night. The team is doing well and showed their strength by building camp in good fashion after a long day. If this good weather holds, we'll attempt to climb Farine Peak tomorrow. RMI Guide Christina Dale

Bolivia: Frank & Team Acclimating on Isla del Sol

May 28, 2018

Posted by: Eric Frank, Andy Bond

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Bolivia

Elevation: 12,800'

Another day of brilliant blue skies greeted us this morning while we sipped coffee and ate a lazy breakfast. The objective for the day was to take a meandering walk along the terraced ridges and slopes of Isla del Sol, gaining some additional acclimatization and taking in the cultural landscape of a society that has changed very little in the last few hundred years. The island doesn't have any roads, so the only traffic we had to contend with were braying donkeys, farmers moving from field to field and the occasional European tourist. For lunch we were treated to a traditional Andean feast, Apthapi. To make Apthapi, the locals dig a hole and line it with square rocks. They then light a fire and heat the rocks and surrounding ground. After removing the embers and ash, layers of potatoes, beans and meat are placed in the hole and covered with dirt. They cook for several hours and eventually produce an extremely tasty combination. Weary from four plus hours of walking, we returned to our Eco Lodge and spent the afternoon relaxing and taking in the view of distance mountains. The sunset this evening, like most here, was spectacular. Shimmering rays bounced up off the surface of the lake multiplying the colors, and making for a dramatic closing to the day. RMI Guide Eric Frank

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Just breathtaking
Never new to much about Bolivia but now know of its natural beauty
Thinking and sending good wishes to all
Julie kiss Stephen for us
Stephen kiss a Julie for us
Love you both
Go team Frank

Posted by: Tina and a John Zabinski on 5/28/2018 at 6:49 pm

It’s been so amazing to see all of this! Hi Dad (Mogens), i love you so much. I’m proud of you.

Love Jules Mary Pono and Malia

Kids think you are pretty darn cool

Posted by: Mary on 5/28/2018 at 5:18 pm

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Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Alaska Seminar: Dale & Team Make Summit Attempt, Try Out New Skills

Bolivia Expedition: Frank & Team Arrive at Base Camp

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Arrive in Talkeetna, Organize Gear

Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Place Cache and Take Rest Day

On The Map

Mt. Rainier: Expedition Skills Seminar Ascends to Camp Muir

Denali Expedition: Hailes & Team Make Carry to 10,500

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Rest Day Hang Out

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Carry a Cache to 17,200’

On The Map

Alaska Seminar: Dale & Team’s Moving Day

Bolivia: Frank & Team Acclimating on Isla del Sol

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