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Entries from Expedition Dispatches


Denali Expedition: Okita & Team Climb Fixed Line to Place Cache

June 2, 2017 As cold as it is at 6:30am here at 14,200', we knew that an early start to our day would be for the best. The crew was up and at 'em even before hots were quite ready. We all knew this was a big day, and it was. The sun hadn't hit our part of the mountain yet, so we were bundled up. This is my usual plan, and surprisingly, we were the first group out of camp. This always bodes well in terms of being one of the first on the fixed lines - that part of the mountain which is quite steep where passage up it is protected by fixed ropes that we can secure ourselves to while climbing slopes up to 50 degrees in steepness. The team really crushed it, then climbed well again on the West Buttress itself. This really is the most spectacular and challenging part of the route. A few of us cached our loads at our standard location at 16,600'. But two of our rope teams climbed all the way to high camp at 17,200' and cached there! Great work by everyone. Later, upon return to camp, we heard that a group that left an hour after us had to wait for two hours due to the congestion in the fixed roped. We were all pretty psyched that we didn't have that issue. Instead, we had one of the most perfect days climbing the Butttress I've seen. Windless and warm. The weather forecast is, of course, on everybody's minds, with this window of nice weather perhaps coming to an end in a couple of days. Some guides are even accelerating their timelines to head up to 17,200' a day or so earlier. I've toyed with this idea too, to forego our rest day tomorrow and try to get a summit in while we can. But, my gut tells me to practice the patience I always preach, so we'll enjoy our rest day tomorrow and take it one day at a time. I know we'll all be the stronger for it, and after our big day we're all a little tired right now. So, good night from 14,200'. RMI Guides Brent, Christina an JT

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Good luck JT, have fun and be safe!

Posted by: Tad on 6/4/2017 at 5:28 am

Good work.  Ardel, I’m thrilled your team is “movin on up.”
Have fun.
David

Posted by: David Zeps on 6/3/2017 at 10:44 am


Denali Expedition: Beren & Team Move to 11,000’ Camp

June 2, 2017 Our team sends their greetings from 11 Camp! Everyone did quite well on the move here and we enjoyed another perfect weather day on our way up. We left early to beat the heat and it paid off. Once at camp we enjoyed some mellow camp construction and rest whilst our comrades made their way down from 17 Camp. It was great to see some triumphant souls and friendly (if scraggly) faces. Tomorrow we hope to back carry and claim our checked baggage and spend the rest of the day training and resting before working our way any higher. All subject to our beloved Mom Nature of course. RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Good luck to the team.  Hoping for the magic 50th for one of your team.  Cheering you on.

Posted by: Salomeja on 6/5/2017 at 1:57 pm

Adam glad Mother Nature has been kind to you and your team. Wishing you well ❤️

Posted by: Dacia on 6/3/2017 at 10:13 pm


Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Check in from 17,000’ Camp after Summit Day

June 2, 2017 Hey guys, it's Mike Walter checking in early Friday morning up at High Camp on Denali. We had a successful summit yesterday in beautiful weather, barely a breath of wind, nott a cloud in the sky, great views. We got to spend nearly an hour on this on top, and everyone returned back to camp safely. We have the stoves fired and we are going to pack up here shortly and start our movement downward and hopefully be back in town tomorrow. We will be in touch and keep you posted. RMI Guide Mike Walter


RMI Guide Mike Walter checks in from 17,000 ft Camp after summit bid.

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Congrats Mark! Get down safely and enjoy some town life now!

Posted by: Tom on 6/2/2017 at 6:55 pm


Denali Expedition: Okita & Team Reclaim Cache from 13,500’

June 1, 2017 Well we were given another blue bird day today with amazing views abounding in every direction. As many of you may know, clear skies usually correspond with cold temperatures, and that was true as ever this morning. At 8 am Christina ventured a peek at her thermometer inside the tent, and her findings confirmed our suspicions, the mercury read a measly -10 F. After we huddled around some hot beverages, and waited for the sun to start working its magic, the day truly began. With temperatures rising steadily, a few of our climbers who were feeling particularly well acclimated headed down hill to pick up some of our food and fuel at 13,500 ft while the rest of the crew honed in on their fixed rope skills. We did a bit of lounging whilst preparing and practicing for our carry to high camp tomorrow and enjoyed drying out and soaking up some rays! It was appreciated by all to have some nice sunny weather to balance out all the snowy weather we endured earlier in the trip. That is all from 14 Camp! RMI Guides JT, Brent and Christina

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Hi Alex and Tom and Team—
Still following and routing for you all. What strength and endurance.
Keep warm.
Jasmin

Posted by: Jasmin on 6/2/2017 at 10:43 pm


Denali Expediton: Beren & Team Make Carry to 10,000’

June 1, 2017 Greetings from our second night at the base of Ski Hill/Camp 1! Today we set off early and enjoyed perfect walking temps as we carried our checked baggage to 10,000 feet and cached a sizable load to make tomorrow's move more civilized. If the forecast verifies, we will try to move uphill in the early morning and make our way to 11 Camp. The team is doing great and perfect weather has welcomed us into the Alaska Range. Big Ups to the first two RMI teams as they get rewarded for their patience and perseverance- Bravo! We hope to check in from 11,200 feet above the sea tomorrow night! RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Your text just make our day
Stay safe and warm if possible
Prayers to all the team

Posted by: Mom and Dad Zabinski on 6/3/2017 at 6:21 pm

GOD SPEED !

Posted by: Jerome on 6/3/2017 at 6:06 pm


Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Summit and Return to 17 Camp

June 1, 2017 Hey there - this is Pete Van Deventer calling. We're back at 17 Camp happy to report after a successful summit day on Denali. We had really perfect weather, couldn't have gotten much better. We had 4 mile an hour kind of chilly breeze this morning, but by the time we got to the Football Field things we're getting pretty warm. It couldn't have been clearer or calmer up on the summit ridge. We got out out of camp nice an early today right after Mike Walter's team, and had Denali mostly to ourselves for a lot of the day. It was great, we are all back at camp and everybody's fed and happy and tucked into bed. The goal tomorrow will be the move back down where the air is thicker and temperatures are warmer. Ideally 11,000' or 7,600' and be at Base Camp shortly thereafter. Maybe Saturday morning to try to catch some flights out. So everybody is heading home, everybody is well and everybody is excited after a great day. We got some good photos and we really can't ask for much more than what we got today. Alright - we'll talk soon. RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer


RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer calls from 17,000 ft Camp after a successful summit day.

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

From down under great climbing Mark and Rachel and fellow mountaineers on achieving your goal. Heartfelt thanks to Pete, Jess and Jenny for making it possible and particularly for maintaining your morale during that long delay at14K. In our eyes you three are real heroes. Hope weather holds fo a safe and enjoyable decent then celebrate. With our best wishes for a safe journey home. Phil and Vonne.

Posted by: Philip and Vonne Calvert on 6/2/2017 at 3:07 pm

Awesome job!!  Congrats JT, Peter, Yon, Rags, Rachel, Mark, Pete, Jenny, Jesse on getting the summit. What an accomplishment. I’m there with you in spirit. Safe travels down. Looking forward to seeing your photos.

Joel

Posted by: Joel on 6/2/2017 at 10:25 am


Bolivia Expedition: Frank & Team Check in from High Camp on Illimani

June 1, 2017 Hello, this is Eric and Caleb with the team in Bolivia. We were hanging out up at the Condor's Nest at 18,000 feet, tucking ourselves in for the night. Down below us we can see all of La Paz and El Alto stretched out in the distance and even all the way to Lake Titicaca. Today, we meandered our way up a long ridge from our previous Base Camp. We were about fives hours on the ridge, beautiful views in each direction. The team did great and we are psyched for our summit bid tomorrow. We should check in from the summit in less than 12 hours, no less than 24 hours, yeah we'll call it that. Talk to you soon. Bye. RMI Guides Eric Frank & Caleb Ladue


The RMI Bolivia Team checks in from 18,000 ft on Illimani.

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

I am so very, very happy that you are all off the mountain and that you all summited!  You are amazing!  Thank you to the guides for bringing everyone down safely.  Just don’t think about climbing again anytime soon, okay?  My hair is grey enough the
way it is!  Congrats, Mattie!  We can’t wait to hear all about it!
Mama

Posted by: Bird on 6/3/2017 at 4:54 pm

From Maddies crew at work.  Good luck and good climbing.  The blogs have been wonderful and you all are an inspiration to all of us mopes at sea level.

Posted by: Steve on 6/2/2017 at 5:36 am


Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Carry to 14,000’ Camp

June 1, 2017 The team continues to do well and make further progress up the mountain! This morning we woke up early to chilly temperatures at 11 Camp before we began to warm up on Motorcycle Hill. We were then greeted by the morning sun on Squirrel Hill and it warmed up quickly! When we arrived at 14 camp around 1pm the heat was blistering! We were quick to dig out cache and drop our gear. Despite the heat we couldn't have asked for better weather today, blue skies and a not so "Windy Corner." We got back to camp mid afternoon, a perfect time to escape the sun to rest in our tents. The weather forecast looks good for us to move everything else to 14 Camp and make our new home up there tomorrow! RMI Guide Tyler Jones

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Matt,

Sounds like you guys are doing well! I read earlier that you guys ate salmon… just know that if you eat it on the mountain you can eat it off the mountain, lol. Daisy is pushing 20lbs already at 10 weeks. Starting puppy school on Monday, so hopefully I can regain some sanity and get some sleep.

Stay cool. Good luck up there!

Posted by: Colleen on 6/2/2017 at 8:13 pm

Hello Tym and Team,

Great progress.  Hard to imagine that heat is an issue.  Bring on the sunscreen. Good luck with your push today for Camp 14!! Zeppelin, Zoolander, and Saxby wish everyone well, with a woof and meows.
The Golden State Warriors won the first play off game last night, 113-91. Satoshi says: $2425.00

Love Mom

Posted by: Kristi Kennelly (AKA Tym's mom) on 6/2/2017 at 9:07 am


Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Reach the Summit!

June 1, 2017 4:18pm PST We just received news that RMI Guide Mike Walter and Team have reached the Summit of Denali! Congratulations Team!
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Your patience paid off! Congratulations!

Posted by: David Clemmons on 6/2/2017 at 9:12 am

Congrats guys! It is the time to drink from the base camp to town of Talkeetna.

Posted by: Lei W on 6/2/2017 at 5:42 am


Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Move to 17,000’ Camp Ready to Summit

May 31, 2017 Hey, this is Pete Van Deventer. The wait is finally over we left 14,000' Camp this morning perfect guys one of the nicest mornings we have woken up to yet. We got out early before this sun hit 14 Camp and beat the rest of camp out too. Along with Mike Walter's Team we made the track up to fix lines along the West Buttress and up to our 17,000' Camp. It's a beautiful day, we are looking way down the Kahiltna Glacier with super clear skies. We really couldn't ask for much more it is warm and calm. We are all really excited and it looks like it's going to hold tomorrow. So the plan in the morning is to get up and head for the summit. We will let everybody know how that goes. The forecast looks good and conditions here look good, and the route as we can see it looks good. So everything is working in our favor at the moment. We look forward to talking to everybody tomorrow. Bye. RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer


RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer checks in from 17,000 ft Camp on Denali.

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Good luck guys.

Hope you have a speedy ascent and clear skies.

Enjoy the moment Mark and Rach.

James

Posted by: James on 6/1/2017 at 4:55 pm

Gutted I’m not with you all. I wish each and every one of you a safe and successful summit attempt. Take care, Andy from Scotland.

Posted by: Andy mcronald on 6/1/2017 at 3:04 pm

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