Entries from Expedition Dispatches
Posted by: Mike Walter
Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades
With a very unfavorable weather forecast ahead of us, we decided to stay inside on the 15th and have a skills session with knots, hitches, carabiners, and other climbing gear. The 16th brought a better chance of climbable weather so we set off from the Lake Ann Trailhead armed with lightweight daypacks. We were able to approach the climb and reach our goal of climbing to the top of the Fisher Chimneys. We experienced wet-to-very wet trail and rock conditions, and only got rained on for a few sections of our climb. We then reversed our route and made it back to the trailhead just before the heavy rain started falling. It was a solid 12-hour day of climbing and hiking and we were happy to be back in time to beat the rain. And also in time for a late pizza dinner! The final push up the summit pyramid wasn’t in the cards with the hand we were dealt by the weather, but we were able to climb the bulk of the route and maximize the use of our time in the mountains.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
Posted by: Casey Grom
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Kilimanjaro
Casey Grom here checking in with RMI's Kilimanjaro Climb!
All is well here in Tanzania and most of the team arrived late last night after some very long flights. It was a short and uneventful ride to our Lodge that is nestled in between Arusha and Moshi and not so far from the base of Kilimanjaro. The team had a quick dinner and headed for bed as the time change has us all feeling just a little off and pretty tired after all the traveling.
Today we had a leisurely morning with our official meeting at 9:30, where we did a round of introductions and then discussed the upcoming program for the days ahead.
We spent the remainder of the day getting our gear packed up, exploring the grounds of our Lodge, which is incredibly peaceful and has monkeys and Dik Dik running around. See for yourself: Arumeru River Lodge.
We wrapped up the evening with another delicious meal and plenty of friendly conversations. Everyone is doing well and excited to hit the trail tomorrow and get a little bit of exercise.
RMI Guide Casey Grom and the Kili crew!
The Four Day Climb teams led by Andy Bond and Nick Scott heading up to Camp Muir for their climb tomorrow, September 16th, decided to retreat in the face of blizzard conditions. The team made it just past Pebble Creek and onto the Muir Snowfield despite heavy rains. However, at about 7,300' the heavy rains quickly turned into blowing sideways ice and snow which forced them to make the collective safety decision to turn around and head back to Paradise. The team made their descent and are back in town wearing dry layers and sipping warm drinks.
Posted by: Brent Okita, JT Schmitt
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 10,060'
Today's Mt. Rainier summit climb, led by Brent Okita and JT Schmitt, was unable to go beyond Camp Muir due to blizzard conditions. High winds were reported through the night gusting 80 mph. The team is currently on their descent from Camp Muir and will be at Rainier Basecamp early this afternoon.
Posted by: Steve Gately, Nikki Champion, James Bealer
Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades
The Expedition Skills Seminar - Shuksan Team has spent the last week in the North Cascades with one day spent on Mt. Erie learning basic rock climbing. And the remainder of the week on Mt. Shuksan to complete alpine mountaineering skills training. These techniques include anchor placements, various self and team crevasse rescue techniques, steep technical ice climbing, belays, rappelling, knots, route finding and fixed rope travel. The team then attempted the summit of Mt. Shuksan, but were forced to turn at the base of the summit pyramid due to poor rainy weather. The team is breaking camp and will be hiking to the trail head this afternoon.
Congratulations to the Team on a great week of climbing!
Incredible experience! We had a great team and fantastic leadership from the guides. I learned so much of the basic mountaineering skills needed for future climbs. Thank you RMI for an amazing trip!
Posted by: Beechard McConnell on 9/14/2019 at 12:01 pm
Posted by: Robby Young, Alex Halliday
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 11,200'
The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guides Robby Young and Alex Halliday reached Ingraham Flats today but high winds forced the team to turn. They are currently at Camp Muir with winds blowing steadily at 40 mph. They will plan an early departure, and will be back at Rainier Basecamp in the early afternoon.
Congratulations team!
Disappointing to not quite get there but thanks to very experienced leadership making right calls! Great effort all!
Posted by: Judith Dykes on 9/14/2019 at 8:47 am
The Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir led by RMI Guides Dave Hahn and Alan Davis met at Rainier BaseCamp on Sunday for their Technical Training day. The team loaded packs and headed to Camp Muir on Monday morning. They have spent the last few days training near Camp Muir on glacier travel and crevasse rescue techniques. This morning they put their training to the test, leaving Camp Muir with an alpine start. They were rewarded with clear skies and light winds as they reached the summit of Mt. Rainier just before 8 AM. Once they have taken all the hero shots and enjoyed the views, they will return to Camp Muir for their final night on the mountain. Tomorrow the team will descend to Paradise and return to Rainier BaseCamp for the conclusion of their program.
Congratulations to the Seminar teams!
Congrats team! Chris, we miss you and can’t wait to see all the photos! Love you
Posted by: Kristen B on 9/16/2019 at 11:10 pm
Congratulations Kristopher! We are so excited and proud of you. We can’t wait to see your pictures of this extreme adventure! Mom and Dad
Posted by: Sheri Johnson on 9/13/2019 at 3:28 pm
We wanted some sunlight on the Easton glacier so route finding would be a little easier after several days of rain and no summits of Mt. Baker. By sunrise we had tried three different tracks through the broken up glacier, which all ended in absent snow bridges. Two of the guides went out to sniff out a 4th option that we could see from our break below 8,000’. The Team kept uphill for another 700’ before encountering warm snow and a snow bridge that didn’t look like it would last much longer let alone allow nine people to cross it. Being late in the morning and deteriorating visibility above us, we made the difficult decision to turn around and come back to camp. We enjoyed some great climbing and views of the surrounding peaks as we descended. At camp now after a good nap we are learning some skills and going to eat dinner. Tomorrow morning the team will pack up and descend to the trailhead.
RMI Guide Mike King
Posted by: Hannah Smith, Joe Hoch, David Price
Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades
The Mt. Baker - Easton Glacier September 7 - 9 team made their summit attempt this morning but were turned back due to extremely wet conditions. The team returned to their High Camp and was going to take a bit of time to dry out. Later today they will continue their descent to the trailhead and conclude their program.
Posted by: Robby Young, Josh McDowell
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The Four Day Climb September 6 - 9 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today with new snow and windy conditions led by RMI Guides Robby Young and Josh McDowell. The teams did not spend much time in the crater, just taking a short break to hydrate and snack before starting their descent to Camp Muir. The program will conclude this afternoon at Rainier BaseCamp with a celebration of today's accomplishments.
Congratulations to today's climbers!
Great job Katelyn and Fred! So happy to hear y’all got to make it to the top this time around. I hope you enjoyed the climb and aren’t too sore afterwards! Love y’all.
Be safe coming down and getting home!
Posted by: Hayden on 9/9/2019 at 11:13 am
Felling mad-jealously for you guys…it’s an amazing trip!
Posted by: Deborah Rutter on 9/16/2019 at 11:41 am
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