Entries from Expedition Dispatches
Our Four Day Summit Climb team led by
Mike Walter and Five Day Summit Climb team led by
Seth Waterfall made it to the summit of
Mt. Rainier today. The teams reported clear skies above 6,000’ and light winds from the west. The teams have started their descent and are en route to Camp Muir.
Congratulations to today's summit climbers!
We enjoyed a leisurely day in St. Petersburg on our last day in Russia. From our hotel we walked the several hundred yards to St. Isaac's Cathedral, climbing the 211 steps to the Colonnade that offers sweeping views of the city below. Built in the early 1700s, Peter the Great designed
St. Petersburg after European cities and the city is often referred to as the "Venice of the North". Dozens of canals wind through the city, connecting to the Neva River running through the heart of St. Petersburg. From the Colonnade we could see over the rooftops of the city's early fortress, it's palaces and government buildings, and its beautifully restored churches.
Descending from the Colonnade we made our way to the Church of our Savior on Spilled Blood, an ornately decorated Church built over the stones where Tsar Alexander II was stabbed. Although built on a gloomy premise, the church's interior is incredible, with intricate, colorful mosaics covering the multistory interior. Lastly, we visited the Hermitage Museum, Russia's largest museum and home to over 4 million pieces of art. While the artwork matches any museum in the world, the building alone, built by Catherine the Great, is worth the visit in itself. Stretching out along the banks of the Neva, each room and hall is decorated in it's unique style.
After dinner (an excellent seafood restaurant) we climbed on board a boat and toured St. Petersburg's canals, winding through the buildings, under the roads and bridges, and along the Neva. Many of us leave early in the morning for flights home. It's been a great trip through
Russia to Europe's highest peak, and we are looking forward to sharing the stories and photos with all of you at home.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory
RMI Guide Mike Haugen led his team to the
Mt. Rainier summit via the Disappointment Cleaver Route this morning with beautiful weather and a slight breeze. The team began their descent at 10:00 a.m.
RMI Guide Jason Thompson was leading his team on the Emmons Route on the northside of Mt. Rainier. Due to firm conditions and a cloud cap developing on the mountain, the team had to make the tough, but more importantly, safe decision to turn at 12,500'. They will stay at Camp Schurman tonight and descend the mountain tomorrow.
Back down at 8,000 ft on the Kahiltna Glacier. We packed things up at 14K this morning with the usual mix of clouds and clearing. Nobody was looking upward any longer even though the peak was out. Our focus became getting down safely. We went into the clouds and murk as we came around
Windy Corner. Walking in fresh powder with big packs and sleds was a challenge, but we were able to find the remains of a packed trail under the powder for much of the day. We took a good rest at 11k as we dug up our cache there and switched out crampons for snowshoes. Travel on the upper Kahiltna was much less complicated than the steep hills we began the journey with. We found excellent glacier conditions and even came out of the clouds a little below 10,000 ft. At the base of Ski Hill we set a quick camp, had dinner and dove in the tents for a few hours of rest. We'll give the glacier surface a chance to freeze up hard before we aim for the airstrip in the morning.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
We left the mountains this morning, piling all of our gear into the back of our van and following the small, twisting road out of the Baskan Valley and into the farmlands surrounding Mineralnye Vody. The fields of sunflowers were in full bloom and the day was clear enough that we could see
Elbrus off in the distance.
Thanks to the upcoming winter Olympics in nearby Sochi they have recently finished renovating the Mineralnye Vody Airport and it was an easy process to get checked in, even with all of the excess baggage and climbing gear. Before long we were airborne, flying north across the country. We arrived in
St. Petersburg in the early evening under grey skies, where the temps are far cooler than the planes to the south. We navigated the crowded streets of the city to find our hotel before heading out into the city for a nice dinner at a nearby cafe.
It's been a long day of traveling and we are happy to be here. St.Petersburg has a very different feel than Moscow and the Caucasus Mountains and we are looking forward to seeing the city. We are spending tomorrow, the last day of our trip, exploring St. Petersburg.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory
The
Four Day Summit Climb teams led by Kel Rossiter and Walter Hailes reached the Mt. Rainier summit this morning in cold temperatures and windy conditions. With a cloud layer settled in at Camp Muir, the team enjoyed clear skies on the summit.
Congratulations to today's summiteers!
Another night, another snow storm. This morning as we got the stoves fired and the POSH pit dug out once again, it was clear that our summit chances had slipped away. That was all that was clear... the day was much like the night, clagged in and snowing. We had a team meeting at breakfast and a retreat from 14,200 ft was proposed. Rather than merely waiting for a break in the weather to head up onto the
West Buttress, we are now back in the uncomfortable position of having loaded avalanche slopes blocking our ascent. They'd need that tedious and time-consuming process of cooking in the (seldom seen) sun and stabilization and careful evaluation... all over again. And we won't have resources for that if we are to devote a little food and fuel to getting safely down and off the mountain. Folks expressed their disappointment at not getting to see the mountaintop, but also their recognition that we simply hadn't gotten a break from sloppy weather. Something had to give. We are going down, but we aren't exactly finished climbing yet. We still need an easing of the current snowstorm and then we'll need a strong and focused team to negotiate the terrain that took a week of careful climbing on the way in.
Perhaps the night will pass without a new storm and we'll be able to begin working toward the airstrip tomorrow.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
The American Lung Association
Summit Climb reached the summit this morning with lead guides
Gabriel Barral and
Elias de Andres Martos. They endured wind gusts and cold temperatures on their ascent but the weather calmed down some as they began the descent from the summit. We expect the teams to be leaving Camp Muir early afternoon.
Congratulations!
After a long summit day, we slept soundly last night. When we poked our heads out of the hut this morning we found a clear day on the mountain above, but plumes of snow were being whipped across the summit - another windy day. Instead of looking uphill, we turned our attention to packing up and returning to the village of Cheget.
We loaded all of our duffels back onto the series of chairlifts, tram cars, and vans to reach
Cheget and by early afternoon we were showered, dressed in clean clothes, and sitting down for lunch at a small cafe in Cheget. We enjoyed a great lunch and have been spending the afternoon relaxing in Cheget, wandering through the stalls of local goods, sitting at the cafes and sharing stories of the climb, and taking the opportunity to send emails back home. Tomorrow we head back to the airport in Mineralnye Vody to fly to the north of Russia to the city of St. Petersburg, sitting along the edges of the Gulf of Finland. We will spend two nights in St. Petersburg, visiting one of Russia's most beautiful cities, before heading home. We will check in tomorrow from St. Petersburg.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory
On The Map
We were up early... but that didn't do much good. The clouds snuck in again overnight and by morning it was socked in and starting to snow at
14,200 ft. For a few hours, we held out the hope that conditions would improve, but we had no such luck. The two other guided teams at 14 decided they'd seen enough and by late afternoon they packed up and took off for Windy Corner, the Kahiltna and the airstrip. We bid them goodbye, wished them good luck and turned to look at a virtually empty camp. Now, the only other team trying to climb is made up of three Danish guys in a tent about 100 ft away. Our team is in surprisingly good spirits despite the roller coaster of yesterday's fresh hopes and today's bleak realities. We'll see what tomorrow brings, but we can't wait for all that many more tomorrows.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
Mike-Thanks again for a great experience and a shout out guides Josh and Anne Gilbert too. Will never forget it and will strongly recommend RMI to any newbie like myself that’s interested in climbing mountains.
Posted by: Joel Summiter on 7/20/2012 at 10:04 am
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