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Entries from Expedition Dispatches


Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Settle into 11K Camp

Sunday, June 23rd, 2013 Hello all, We're checking in from 11k! We woke at a more reasonable hour this morning to a centimeter or so of new snow, and crystal blue skies. There was nothing to do but eat a big breakfast, crash our camp, and bounce to 11,000 feet. Just over two hours later we rolled into camp, psyched to finally be setting up shop for a few days. We dug a big kitchen, got the tents all bomb proof, and enjoyed an afternoon lounging in (or hiding from) the sun. With a full rest day tomorrow, it was a relaxed evening, and we spectated as the rangers skied a few laps above camp. The group's competitive personalities are coming out, and tomorrow we have scheduled a competitive napping event. We'll let you know who the winners are! Until then, Happily resting at 11k. RMI Guides Pete, Geoff, Robby, et al.

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hi Wyatt!  It’s been raining since you left!  The pictures of the mountain look beautiful.  We really enjoy reading what your group is doing from this blog.  Take Care and stay safe and strong.  Love ya,  Mom and Dad

Posted by: Marian Evenson on 6/24/2013 at 5:10 pm

Hugo ,we wish you a nice and safe journey! Enjoy your ride !
From your brother , Luis Heitor .

Posted by: Luis Heitor Picchioni on 6/24/2013 at 10:26 am


Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Rest Day at 14K Camp

Sunday, June 23rd, 2013 We woke up with a couple of inches of snow on the tents this morning. No storms or winds, just the friendly June kind of Denali snow. We had a very pleasant rest day. We checked in with the camp gossip and watched a few teams head up the fixed line towards 17k. Our plan is to head up to 17,000 ft and make a camp. We have really been doing a great job of sport eating and no one has had any problems with this altitude. We are all very excited because we do not drag any sleds up past this camp. RMI Summit Team 6 P.S. Lance wants Penny to know that he is keeping up with his dental hygiene. (But the rest of him has not washed in ten days! Also, Uchal says Happy 2nd Birthday Lulu!

On The Map

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Hello Gregory Grasshopper! We all had a fun time in Austin, swimming in the Pedernales, eating, and catching up. We are thinking of you and hope all continues to go well.  Midge and Pete say hi.

Love you,
Mum and Bubs

Posted by: Anne Sullivan on 6/24/2013 at 8:05 pm

Great photos and updates! Thank you, it really helps us at home feel more involved, and informed.  Great progress and no more sleds. Yea!  Glad to hear all are doing well and managing to have a bit of fun too. Message to Steve, love you and missing you, hope you are having a wonderful time.remember, take lots of pictures!

Posted by: Tania K on 6/24/2013 at 1:33 am


Mt. Rainier: June 23rd Update

Summit! The Mt. Rainier Four Day Summit Climbs led by JJ Justman and Kel Rossiter stood on top just after 7:15 a.m. Snow and sometimes rain was falling on the summit and the teams are currently in a mountain cloud cap. Both teams recharged and refueled in the summit crater before starting their descent at 8:25. Although precipitation was falling, the guides reported pleasant climbing conditions and an excellent route. Congratulations to today's summit climbers!
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

A big congrats Gautam!Gritty G! Proud of you.

Posted by: Bhaktha on 6/29/2013 at 9:16 am

Congratulations Gautam!!

Posted by: Mahadev on 6/26/2013 at 9:40 am


Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Carry Heavy Loads to 9,600’ Camp

Saturday, June 22nd, 2013 Greetings from Pete, Geoff, Robby and Team, Under cool temperatures and partly sunny skies, we moved uphill again this morning from our camp at 7,600' to 9,600'. The slopes of Ski Hill offered up our first significant climb of the expedition given our full loads weighing down our packs and our sleds. After building camp at 9,600', we continued to lighten our loads and fill our bellies by feasting on soups and Tasty Bite delicacies, followed by some hot beverages and storytelling. Our team is feeling strong and weather looks accommodating for a move to 11,000' camp tomorrow morning, where we'll finally post up for some rest and acclimatization. RMI Guides Robby, Pete, and Geoff

On The Map

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Aloha Gail,
IMUA, from Kihei Charter.
We are thinking of you and the entire team.
Safe climbing.
Aloha
Gene

Posted by: Gene on 6/26/2013 at 3:35 am

Guapo,
met someone this morning who has also climbed Rainer, and a few others;is climbing Denali in 2015 with his dad and brother. I got his name for you, he’d like to meet you!
I see you have a team member from Kihei!....I bet you wish you were feeling those temps instead, but the views where you are now? They really outshine Kihei!
We miss you and are following your progress. Lots of cheering coming from Facebook
Have a great climb tomorrow
Guapa

Posted by: marion on 6/23/2013 at 8:10 pm


Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Cache Gear at 16,600’

Saturday, June 22nd, 2013 Movin' on up! We woke up early and set out to cache some gear up high. Even though the sun was not on us, we thought it was warm for 14k camp. We were wrong. As we set out towards the fixed ropes that allow us to climb the steep face up to 16,000 ft safely, a cold wind picked up and made us cold...like Denali cold! I think we needed it because we were getting a bit spoiled. Once we gained the ridge, we were out of the wind and in the sun and immediately life was better. We decided to make a cache a around 16,600' under a prominent rock feature called Washburn's Thumb. We cached some food and fuel for when we head up to our last camp at 17,000' in a couple of days. I was really impressed at how everyone did at the altitude and on the fixed lines. Go team! Rest day tomorrow. RMI Guide Mike Haugen and the RMI Summit Team 6

On The Map

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Lance’s little ones are off camping with the dinosaurs the next 3 days . BUt we will be thinking about you all and wish you warmer wind and fantastic next few days

Posted by: elisabeth on 6/24/2013 at 6:30 pm

Enjoy your day off, but I am sure you will find something to pass the time. This team likes to stay busy it seems. Tell Q the Bruins are at home tonight for game 6. They trail 3 to 2. Should be a great game 7 this week. Go Bruins!!

Posted by: George on 6/24/2013 at 5:05 am


Ecuador Volcanoes: Mike Walter & Team Visit the Otavalo Market

After a relaxing night at the hotel Casa Sol, we headed to the world famous market in downtown Otavalo this morning. Here the indigenous Otavaleños display their artisan craft goods, including ponchos, blankets, and sweaters woven from the wool of sheep and alpaca, jewelry, paintings, wood carvings, and the like. We spent the morning exploring the market, and now we're about to head out to the climbers' hut on Cayambe, where we'll spend two nights and hopefully get good weather for a shot at the summit. Cayambe sits at an elevation of 5,790 meters, with massive glaciers flowing from the summit. It is the 3rd highest peak in Ecuador, and also holds the distinction of the highest altitude on earth over which the equator passes. The weather today is beautifully warm and sunny, and we are optimistic that the good weather will continue while we are up on our climb. Hasta luego... RMI Guide Mike Walter

On The Map

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Exciting to watch and hear your progress!!  Glad to hear everyone is moving strong and feeling good.  Looking forward to seeing you at the top and celebrating your summit!!  go, Go, GO!!!  Lumley

Posted by: Jennifer Lumley on 6/25/2013 at 5:12 am

Been following and envious! Sorry to hear just 300ft short of Summit - better safe. We will hope for the best on the next climb. Be safe & enjoy!

Posted by: Dan C on 6/24/2013 at 10:17 am


Mt. Rainier: June 22, 2013 Summit!

The Four Day Summit Climb Teams Led by RMI Guides Brent Okita and Walter Hailes called as they reached the Summit of Mt. Rainier at 6:59am this morning. The teams have clear weather with light winds, but cold temperatures. They spent some time on the summit before starting their descent back to Camp Muir. Congratulations to today's teams! RMI Guide JJ Justman's team was awarded with a beautiful day of climbing up to Camp Muir. The team is keeping their fingers crossed for good weather tomorrow morning!
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

What an awesome journey you have just completed. Walking by the full moon in the wee hours of the day to stand on top of the world must have been exhilarating and inspiring. Your hard work was admirable as you put your energy into reaching your goals. I bow gently in respect for all of you. Now…What’s next?

Posted by: Jan Alexander on 6/22/2013 at 5:45 pm

Outstanding pic! Can’t wait to se the videos.

Posted by: Tom Buser on 6/22/2013 at 1:25 pm


Mt. McKinley: Haugen’s Team Has a Rest Day at 14K Camp

Friday, June 21st, 2013 Ahhhh a day of rest. We did not even move in our tents until the sun hit them at 9:30. We had a morning of slowly cooking pancakes for the group. We believe pancakes are the perfect acclimatization food. We volunteered to be guinea pigs for a medical experiment having to do with high altitude. The test involved having a series of heart rate and oxygen saturation measurements taken and then walk around a track for 6 minutes to see how those measurements change. It was not a competition, but let's just say our group crushed it! If the weather is nice tomorrow, our plan is to move some gear up to 17,000' Camp. On Denali, 60% of the time the weather is good all the time! RMI Guide Mike Haugen and RMI Summit Team 6

On The Map

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Any smiley faces in the pancakes?  Glad you got some rest.  Big storms here (well, yes, it is all relative) but all is well.  :)

Posted by: KConstantine on 6/22/2013 at 9:25 pm

Pancakes, huh?  Well, OK.  But you know, the other teams are reporting Pop Tarts.  Since we live at 9500 feet, Bill and I are sure proof that Pop Tarts are the best high altitude food ever made.  But if you guys want to eat pancakes, carry on. 
Love to Steve & Grasshopper from Lisa, Bill, Taii, & Togo

Posted by: Lisa Mackey on 6/22/2013 at 6:56 pm


Ecuador’s Volcanoes: Mike Walter & Team Ascend Fuya Fuya

We packed up our luggage this morning, checked out of our hotel in Quito, and headed north, towards the town of Otavalo. As much as we enjoyed our time in Quito, I think we all are very excited to leave behind the hustle and bustle of car horns and traffic, get out into the mountains, and enjoy the views of the snow covered peaks of the Ecuadorian Andes. That is, after all, why we’re here. We summited our second peak today on our final acclimatization hike. Fuya Fuya was the objective this time. At just over 14,000’, the old volcano is lower than yesterday’s climb of Rucu Pichincha but the climbing was consistently steep, from the trailhead to the summit. The trail gained elevation quickly as it climbed thru high Andean grasses, culminating in a short rocky scramble to the summit. Although the summit was in the clouds once again, the weather was terrific for the climb. We were treated to stunning views of the Laguna Mojanda below us, a large lake formed in an ancient volcanic crater. Our team also caught a brief glimpse of an Andean Condor soaring in and out of the clouds around Fuya Fuya. Now we’re all settle in at our tranquil hacienda, Casa de Sol. We’ll have a relaxing morning tomorrow, visiting the Otavalo market, before heading up to the climbing hut on Cayambe for a couple of nights. We’ll keep you posted as always... RMI Guide Mike Walter
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Mt. Rainier: June 21, 2013 SUMMIT!

The Four Day Summit Climb Teams led by RMI Guides Adam Knoff and Solveig Waterfall reached the Summit of Mt. Rainier today. The teams reported clear weather with a cap on the summit, and the new route via Camp Comfort great to climb. The teams spent some time on the summit and are now en route to Camp Muir. Congratulations to today's teams!
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Wahoo!  This is a day to remember, huh?
We are soooo proud of you!

Posted by: Vicky on 6/21/2013 at 10:17 pm

Yooray!  Such an achievement!  So proud.

Posted by: Gerri on 6/21/2013 at 3:42 pm

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