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Entries from Expedition Dispatches


Ecuador’s Volcanoes: Team Makes First Acclimatization Hike

Well rested from our recent international flights, our team went for our first acclimatization climb today, summiting Rucu Pichincha. Rucu is a volcano that is located just outside of the city of Quito, and the gondola-assisted approach allowed us to enjoy some very high altitude today. The summit sits at 15,413', and was a personal altitude record for many members of our climbing team; we should break that record a few more times during our stay here in Ecuador. After riding the gondola, the climb consisted of a relatively moderate ascent on good trails to a small Col just shy of the true summit. From the Col, we scrambled for about 15 minutes up 3rd class volcanic rock to the summit. Clouds obscured our views from the top, but added to the ambiance of our team's first Andean summit. Other than some high clouds, the weather was great for our climb today. The temperatures were quite comfortable for climbing, and we had great views of Quito from nearly 6,000' above. Our team climbed very strong today, without exception, and it is obvious that everyone has been dedicated to their training programs in the past few months. The climbers on this team have a ton of experience in the mountains, from Rainier to Aconcagua, and it definitely shows. Tomorrow our crew will pack up in the morning and leave Quito, traveling north to our next acclimatization hike of Fuya Fuya, en route to our first major climbing objective, Cayambe. At the risk of sounding redundant, these climbers are strong and well-prepared for this trip. Sure, we all feel the affects of altitude at this point, but that is expected. The team's collective dedication to climbing and training is allowing us to fully enjoy our experience here in Ecuador. Thanks for checking in, and we'll provide an update after our next climb. But for now, the well-oiled climbing machine is on track. Hasta la proxima cumbre, RMI Guide Mike Walter & team
Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Ola Amigos!  Greetings from 1100.00000 elevation in the Allegheny Mountain Range of NW Pennsylvania, USA.  Awesome photos—you guys rock!  Go Larry!  How much do they pay you for that awesome mug shot that now tops their web site?  Endorsements forever!

Posted by: Patti and Joe on 6/21/2013 at 9:31 am


Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Finish Their Expedition

Thursday, June 20, 2013 The lower glacier was fully covered in fog when we turned in last night and to our surprise it had cleared completely by the time we decided to walk. The early morning light on the surrounding mountains and the waxing moon in the purple sky made an absolutely surreal walk out of the range. The team finished very strong, hitting the runway in style in the morning just as a pair of Otters hit the upper strip. Now in Talkeetna, the team is enjoying the comforts of reentry and in a few hours we are going to enjoy a big meal cooked over something more refined than a camp stove. What a treat! It is hard to believe that we are back in town already. Enjoying nearly perfect weather and a very strong team, we were able to take advantage of the weather windows and climb the route entirely by ourselves in quite reasonable conditions. Additionally if there was ever a team to handle some downtime and extra rest days with quality conversation, this was it. Yet the weather smiled upon us and our training and strength as a team really came together for an efficient ascent with great folks. Thanks again to everyone on the team for really rising to the challenge of Denali and matching themselves perfectly to their environment for a safe, successful climb. It has been a pleasure. RMI Guide Jake Beren
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Jake Beren & RMI Organization,
Thank you to the guides at RMI for making it possible for family and friends to keep track of their loved ones while climbing Denali.  The map, photos and blog made it possible to live vicariously through your courageous experience. 
I hope hot showers, home-cookin’ and comfy beds are in your near future!
Safe travels home!
Congratulations to the Team!

Posted by: S Brownie on 6/21/2013 at 11:58 am


Mt. McKinley: June 18th Expedition Led by Pete Van Deventer Readies in Talkeenta

Wednesday, June 19, 2013 The team is assembled and ready to go! Yesterday, we all stepped off the plane into the fire; both literally and figuratively. Alaska has been experiencing a strong heatwave, and Anchorage was toasty. We also had a lot to get done, buying the rest of our food for the mountain and making the drive to Talkeetna. We settled in to relax for the night, leaving the gear sorting and packing for today. Now, all of our gear is packed and weighed for the plane, tents have been set up and checked to make sure that they are good to go, and everyone is excited for the flight through the Alaska range. Now we just need the weather to cooperate tomorrow AM long enough to get us onto the mountain! Hopefully we'll check in from the glacier tomorrow! Cheers RMI Guides Pete, Geoff, Robby, and the team

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hola Guapo!
What a nice group picture! You look so happy…what a beautiful place for your third climb!
I’m so proud of you. We will be following you daily. it seems the weather is in your favor.
Love you! we are here cheering you on. I bet you wish there were sherpas and donkeys there!.....:)
XO Guapa

Posted by: marion on 6/22/2013 at 6:57 pm

hey pete have a great climb, stay safe.

Posted by: joshua hoar on 6/21/2013 at 7:14 pm


Mt. Rainier: June 20th - Team on the Summit!

The Four Day Summit Climb teams led by RMI Guides Billy Nugent and Tyler Reid reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning just after 7 am. Tyler reported a cloud deck below at around 8,000’ and a cloud layer above. The teams were experiencing moderate to gusty winds and cold temperatures. They will descend to Camp Muir and then continue to Paradise this afternoon. We look forward to seeing everyone back at Rainier BaseCamp later today. Congratulations to today's summit climb teams!
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Mt. McKinley: Beren & Team Head Down to 11 Camp

Wednesday, June 19, 2013 Well the wind finally died down yesterday afternoon and instead of hightailing it out of 17 Camp, we chose to relax and enjoy where a few weeks work can put you. It was a gorgeous day to rest and recover and truly enjoy the place we had spent so much time and energy getting to and have the recent memory of our time on top fresh in our minds. This morning we made a move down the mountain and retraced our steps down the West Buttress towards the fixed lines and 14 Camp. Few teams were out and about, mostly holding tight due to the higher summit winds and we rolled into 14 Camp to find that our kind friends with RMI McKinley Team # 6 had helped us out by digging up our cache. Thanks a bunch guys, so nice to have friends out here. After increasing our pack weights, we headed down to 11 Camp and had some grub before catching a few winks. Soon we will hit the glacier for our final approach to the Kahiltna BC and see if we can high five RMI McKinley Team #7 and hop in a warm seat for the return to "civilization." It has been a fantastic trip and we've still got one more day to go, but we're certainly in no rush to leave this beautiful place and wonderful team. RMI Guide Jake Beren

On The Map

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Mt. McKinley: Haugen’s Team Makes a Carry Up to 14K Camp

Wednesday, June 19th, 2013 We moved a cache all the way up to 14,000 ft camp today. It is a big day to gain that much altitude with a big load, but our crew did great. In fact, several people commented on how good we looked as we pulled in. We made great time getting back down to 11k. Jake Beren and crew stopped by for a visit as they are relaxing in 11k camp on there way out to Basecamp and the landing strip. Our plan is to move up to fourteen tomorrow, but only if the weather is as perfect as it has been. Steve says hi to Tania! Cindee says hi to dad and wants him to know she is safe and happy! Quinn says hi to Liz! Lance says hi to the girls! I hope Penny's school play went well. Haugen says hi to Amber and the girls! Peter says hi to Bob and Perk! Trust the puppies are doing well. Love to Ivonne. Grasshopper says hi to Annie, Rose, and kin! Katie says hi to Cody! Uchal says hi to all his people in Rock City! Sandra says hi to mom, dad, and Hikari! RMI Guide Mike Haugen

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Glad to hear it’s going so well. We are excited for you all!

Posted by: K Constantine on 6/20/2013 at 6:36 pm

Glad to see the progress on the map! Hope you all are having a most wonderful adventure!  Miss you terribly and love to Steve.

Posted by: Tania K on 6/20/2013 at 6:15 pm


Ecuador Volcanoes: Mike Walter & Team Arrive in Quito

The Ecuador Volcanoes climbing (and all of our luggage) has arrived in Ecuador! Everyone arrived in the country by early this morning and hit the ground running. We spent the bulk of the day on an interesting and educational tour of colonial Quito, visiting the Presidential Palace, the Basilica, and various other points of interest in southern Quito, also known as Old Town Quito. Our local city guide, Jorge, is extremely knowledgeable and happy to share the wealth of information he has about the history, culture, politics, and religion of Ecuador. As always, it's a pleasure to work with Jorge. After a typical Ecuadorian lunch of empanadas, locro de queso (potato soup with cheese & avocado), and fritada (fried pork with corn and plantains), we headed to the Equator. We visited an ethnographic museum and stood straddling the Equator, with a foot in each hemisphere (see photo). We're all still a little weary from a long travel day to get here, and I'm sure everyone will sleep well tonight. Tomorrow we had head out on our first acclimatization hike. We'll be in touch tomorrow to let you know how it goes. Cheers, RMI Guide Mike Walter

On The Map

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Ken!  Amazing to read, incredible to SEE!!  Great job everyone!

Posted by: Carlo Barone on 6/24/2013 at 10:46 am

Thinking about you Ken!  Be super careful.  What an experience!  Jan

Posted by: Jan Swenarton on 6/23/2013 at 3:23 pm


Justman & the Emmons Seminar Complete Their Week on Mt. Rainier

RMI Guide JJ Justman and team returned to Ashford today after completing their six-day Emmons Expedition Skills Seminar. JJ captured brilliant views on their summit day. See the video below.
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Mt. Rainier: June 19th - Team on Summit!

The Four Day Summit Climb teams led by RMI Guides Elias de Andres Martos and Walter Hailes reached the summit of Mt. Rainier around 7 a.m. PT. The teams reported really good weather and climbing conditions. Mostly blue skies above them with a thick cloud layer down around 9,500'. They will enjoy some time on the summit before starting their descent to Camp Muir and continue down to Paradise this afternoon. The Liberty Ridge climb led by RMI Guides Casey Grom and Andres Marin will be returning to Ashford today. The team was unable to climb due to poor weather and route conditions. We look forward to seeing the teams this afternoon at Rainier BaseCamp. Congratulations to today's summit climb teams!
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Mt. McKinley: Haugen and Team Sport Eating at 11,000’

Tuesday, June 18, 2013 We are getting beautiful weather day after beautiful weather day! We retrieved our cache from 10,000ft. We are now set to bring a load up to around 14,000ft. This will be great for our acclimatization since it fits into the climb high and sleep low model. The team has really been doing a great job of taking care of themselves. We are doing a lot of sport eating and drinking as we sit around camp. I am usually a hydration nag, but this crew is on top of it! Stay Classy North America! RMI Guide Mike Haugen

On The Map

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So great to hear you have good weather.  The pictures are amazing. Keep trucking.  Love, mom and dad.

Posted by: Kathie Constantine on 6/19/2013 at 8:51 pm

Grasshopper, Big Steve, & Quiet Sandra -  Cheers!  Hope you’re enjoying a few rewards after work?  That is along with proper hydration.  Keep it up!  Remember, hills are your friends!!  Mtn Mo

Posted by: Mtn Mo on 6/19/2013 at 7:36 pm

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