Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Leave Base Camp and Camp under West Kahiltna Peak

June 25, 2016

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Ben Liken, Bridget Belliveau, Hannah Smith

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,600'

June 24, 2016 - 10:24 pm PT It began raining at Kahiltna Basecamp around 9PM, and that transitioned to wet snow at about 2 AM. So we didn't go for that Alpine Start we were angling toward. It was still snowing at 7:30 AM when we got up to build breakfast but then it quit and things began to improve. We'd begun to think we'd be stuck in BC for a storm day, but with clearing weather and the knowledge that the glacier was in exceptionally good condition for late June, we decided to make use of the day. As always, it took a while breaking camp and gearing up for this first push. It was awkward rigging sleds into rope travel and it was awkward for some to be on snowshoes with heavy packs. We got out of BC by 10:45 and by then the sky was mostly blue and the sun was mostly hot. After the rain, the surface was a little slushy but not all that bad for travel. We moved down the SE Fork and took a right turn at the main Kahiltna Glacier. We had things pretty much to ourselves with only the occasional one or two European climbers at a time coming past on their way out. We made steady progress, but we weren't moving fast with the slushy conditions. We decided to quit after six hours of work, which had brought us to just about 45 minutes below the more common camp at 7800. We are out under West Kahiltna Peak. All day as we traveled, we could hear avalanches thundering down the mountainsides, and from time to time we'd look hard enough to find the clouds of ice billowing out from the snowy torrents. We had a secure camp up by 6 and dinner by 7 PM so that all could get enough rest for another big day tomorrow. Hopefully on a frozen surface with cooler conditions. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Go Robin and team! Sounds like some tough going up there and cold! It’s nice and warm and muggy here in NC. We’re all thinking about you and wishing you and the team the best of luck as you all get further along! Russell

Posted by: Russell Moore on 6/25/2016 at 5:32 pm

Hola! Superbub, Tatto, The Pake and kiddos here! Giving a shout out to the Guy Lard Boof Tard! aka Mike Waters. Wishing the best to you and your team and praying for good weather!

Posted by: Bub on 6/25/2016 at 11:25 am

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Mt. Elbrus Ski: Reid & Team Holding Out

June 24, 2016

Posted by: Tyler Reid

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Elbrus Ski

Elevation: 12,000'

Just a quick update from the Elbrus Ski Crew. We got all packed up and ready for our summit attempt tomorrow, but after another close look at the latest weather models, it looks like Sunday is going to be a better weather day. So instead of waking up at 2am tomorrow, we're going to take another rest day with some possible light skiing activity, and hold out for Sunday. Everyone is doing great and psych levels are high... RMI Guide Tyler Reid

Mt. Elbrus: Seth Waterfall & Team Spend Their Day Touring Moscow

June 24, 2016

Posted by: Seth Waterfall

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Elbrus Southside

Hello from Moscow! It's about seven o'clock in the evening here and we are all about to meet up for dinner. We have had a great day seeing the sights in the city. We met our city tour guide, Svetlana, this morning and she took us out to the Kremlin and Red Square. She indulged all of our questions about life and politics in Russia now versus back in the Communist period. It was all fascinating stuff. After the tour we had lunch in an authentic Georgian restaurant. Tomorrow we are shifting gears with an early morning flight. We'll fly about 900 miles south to the Caucasus Mountains. We will have Mt. Elbrus in sight and begin our acclimatization process. I'll check in again when we reach our destination. RMI Guide Seth Waterfall

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hey, Slackers:
Looking good in Red Square!
Just want to urge you guys to keep your eyes on the prize, and not to worry about the post-Brexit market swoon. I saw Jill and Jennifer at Pinhan last night. They had managed to get Alison and Danielle on a conference Skype, and after their third round of G&Ts; the four of them opened a margin account on E-trade, and in honor of your Russian expedition they were buying random puts and calls on the MICEX and RTS exchanges. When I left the cafe after dark, they we’re making spirited plays on some investment app called “Catch a Falling Knife.”
So relax, and enjoy your ascent! We’ll keep the home fires burning till your return.
Salud!
Josh

Posted by: Josh Horwitz on 6/25/2016 at 7:18 am

Dear Team, as a life long friend and admirer of Gordy’s, I wanted to prepare you for the pronounced behavioral tendencies that would manifest themselves as the air thinned, thighs burned, packs grew heavier, and menu choices shrank. You see, there are quite a few elements to Gordy that are not easily communicated on an outward bound application. I am also assuming the files from his extended stay at Sunnyside Mental Wellness have not been provided following the leather party he had with the 7 nurses (mostly female). This may be a long note so I hope you are not charged for roaming data while in Russia. Gordy’s issues principally arise from his love of and respect for all mankind. Firstly, this may not be easily evident to you until that repelling safety rope is tied on as I suspect Gordy will then insist on showing off his extensive knowledge of ropes and knots. He may claim this is rooted in his time as a small stock boy out in Omaha department store warehouse. However, at Sunnyside it was diagnosed that this passion arose from his time as a stock boy and salesman at the Carlton Shops in Philadelphia. Secondly, his respect for mankind will surely be “presented” in the hotel tonight and tents thereafter as he goes NRA topless in order to show off his “guns and pecs”. Gordy is a complicated fellow so I beg of you to be caring and supportive and to bring him home safe as he is a gem that none of his friends would want any other way. Sincerely, Ron (also on behalf of Nadav, Scot, Schless, Dave and Will)

Posted by: Ron Bobman on 6/25/2016 at 4:06 am

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Mt. Rainier: Teams Turn at 12,000’ Due to Poor Weather Conditions

June 24, 2016

Posted by: Mike Walter, Walter Hailes

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 12,000'

The Mt. Rainier Summit Climbs, led by Mike Walter and Walter Hailes, turned around at 12,000 feet due to high winds, low visibility, and snow. The teams began their descent from Camp Muir at 8:45 a.m. We look forward to greeting them in Ashford this afternoon.

Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Settle In at 14,200’

June 24, 2016

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Pepper Dee, Hannah McGowan

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

June 23, 2016 - 10:07 P.M. PDT At 3 A.M. Mount Foraker was bathed in streaks of pink light and not a breath of wind moved through 11 Camp as we packed our packs to move up the mountain. We climbed efficiently up Motorcycle Hill and Squirrel Hill, around a not so Windy Corner, and pulled into 14 Camp just as the heat of the day began. We found an empty fortress of expertly chopped snow blocks and after a few hours of renovation, moved into our new home. Our whole team ate and hydrated like champions. In high spirits we're snuggling up for the night under benign skies. Tomorrow will be a rest day - haircuts, Game of Thrones, Uno, and lots of sunscreen await us. Love from El Siete

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How exciting

Posted by: Sybil Smith on 6/26/2016 at 11:25 am

Good luck…great adventure!

Posted by: Ruth on 6/26/2016 at 7:29 am

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Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Fly to Kahiltna Base Camp

June 24, 2016

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Ben Liken, Bridget Belliveau, Hannah Smith

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,300'

June 23, 2016 - 9:39 P.M. PDT First day in our new home...The Alaska Range. We enjoyed a final night in Talkeetna and another great breakfast at the Roadhouse, but then we hustled out to the airstrip. There was no "hurry up and wait" today, more like just plain hurry up. The weather was good and the pilots were ready to go. Stan and Randy each piloted a big and beautiful Otter on skis into the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier and spit us and our gear out onto the snow...all before 10 A.M. We spent a calm day building camp and reviewing glacier travel techniques. We'd take breaks from time to time to sip water and stare at the giant mountain walls surrounding us. Cloud cover moved in to obscure those walls by our early bedtime. Our intention is to be up at midnight for an alpine start. During the flight in, we could see that the rumors have been spot on. The lower glacier is in excellent condition with very few open crevasses. Even so, we'll go at it early when the surface has the best chance for being frozen solid. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Sooo excited for you guys! What an awesome experience! Get after it Hannah and crew! Best wishes for some good weather. Happy climbing :)

Posted by: Kate Kimm on 6/25/2016 at 2:42 am

Schnautz!! We are rooting for you! Kick ass buddy. We hope the weather stays perfect for Yall. Can’t wait to hear all about it when you get back!!!

Posted by: Ash, Rick, and TDub Egan on 6/24/2016 at 7:19 pm

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North Cascades: Frank & Team Change Plans Due to Weather

June 23, 2016

Posted by: Eric Frank, Caleb Ladue

Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades

June 22, 2016 - 2:33 pm PT Hey gang, Here's a soggy hello from just south of the Canadian border. Caleb and I are sitting in a coffeeshop in Bellingham pouring over radar maps and weather forecasts, while our boots dry in the parking lot. Yesterday we were suppose to have climbed Mt. Buckner, but both the weather and route conditions shut that down. On Monday we made it to one of our potential camp locations after eight hours of climbing only to find that it was buried in snow. We had to dig for 20 minutes to make snow platforms for our tents. It started raining later in the night and by the time we woke up at 3am to launch, everything was rimed over with several inches of ice. Because the first hour of the climb requires scrambling on six-inch rock ledges and the use of bare hands, we knew it wasn't an option. After checking the weather every 20-30 minutes until 8am, we gave up and went back to bed. The wind continued to blow and spit light precip. Around 10am, there was a clearing and we decided to capitalize on the opportunity by making a quick trip to the summit of nearby Sahale. From the top, we had incredible views of our camp and the surrounding peaks before the clouds obscured them again. In the early afternoon we packed up camp and started the trek downhill. As a group we decided to focus our efforts of the next objective, Mt. Shuksan, and take a full rest day in Bellingham to dry our gear and prepare. Wish us luck and a drier next few days. RMI Guides Eric Frank and Caleb Ladue

Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team - 14K on the Way!

June 23, 2016

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Pepper Dee, Hannah McGowan

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

June 22, 2016 - 9:29 pm PT We took advantage of beautiful weather and moved some supplies up to the camp at 14,000 feet. We left camp around 4:30 a.m. so we could take advantage of firm snow and cool traveling conditions. Although we are on a cold mountain, the solar radiation can be stifling later in the day. Our 3,000-foot climb up to 14k took us up several big hills with names like Motorcycle Hill, Squirrel Hill, and Windy Corner. Once we got to 14k, we dug a giant hole and then buried our super cold weather gear, food, and some fuel under 1.5 meters of snow. The team did an amazing job all day and we were back in camp in around nine hours round-trip. The plan for tomorrow is to take advantage of the good forecast and move our camp up to 14k where we will be knocking on the door of the upper mountain. That's all for now! We'll be in touch from 14 camp. RMI Guide Mike Haugen

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Happy Birthday Jon!! Hope you are having a wonderful time and your climb is all you hoped for. God Bless!

Posted by: Marilyn and Jerry on 6/29/2016 at 12:21 pm

Venga team El Siete!!
Glad to read that the UNO cards are being used =)
Have a good climb tomorrow!

Tom

Posted by: Tom on 6/24/2016 at 2:41 am

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Mt. Elbrus Ski: Reid & Team Ski from Pastukhova Rocks

June 23, 2016

Posted by: Tyler Reid

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Elbrus Ski

Elevation: 15,500'

Our timing with the weather was perfect today - as I write this, there's a high intensity hail storm making a lot of clatter on the metal roof of our hut. This morning was beautiful. We ascended up to 15,500', a little beyond Pastukhova Rocks, building on our acclimatization. We were treated to some very nice turns on our 3,000' descent back to the huts, and we got a few jealous looks from climbers walking down on foot. Another great day on Mt. Elbrus. Tomorrow is focused on rest, and the next day we'll see if we can ski from the top! RMI Guide Tyler Reid

Mt. Rainier: Emmons Seminar Unable to Summit

June 23, 2016

Posted by: JJ Justman, Christina Dale, Jess Matthews, Lucas Haaland

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 9,600'

The Mt. Rainier Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons led by RMI Guide JJ Justman was unable to make a summit attempt this morning. The team remained at Camp Schurman due to wet weather (rain and snow mix) and low visibility. When JJ called to check-in with the RMI Office this morning the weather had improved a little and the team was going to spend the day training around Camp Schurman. The team will spend tonight on the mountain before descending and returning to Ashford tomorrow.

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Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Leave Base Camp and Camp under West Kahiltna Peak

On The Map

Mt. Elbrus Ski: Reid & Team Holding Out

Mt. Elbrus: Seth Waterfall & Team Spend Their Day Touring Moscow

Mt. Rainier: Teams Turn at 12,000’ Due to Poor Weather Conditions

Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Settle In at 14,200’

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Fly to Kahiltna Base Camp

On The Map

North Cascades: Frank & Team Change Plans Due to Weather

Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team - 14K on the Way!

On The Map

Mt. Elbrus Ski: Reid & Team Ski from Pastukhova Rocks

Mt. Rainier: Emmons Seminar Unable to Summit

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