Entries from Expedition Dispatches
Posted by: Mike Walter, Billy Haas, Blake Votilla
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 7,800'
Friday, May 6, 2016 - 11:19 p.m. PDT
Our Denali expedition has hit the ground running. After flying on to the Kahiltna Glacier yesterday, we took advantage of good weather and traveled up glacier for 6.5 hours to our first camp at the base of Ski Hill at 7800'.
Light snow started after we had camp set up, and continued through most of the night. When we woke up, there was only an inch of snow and temps were warm. After a delicious breakfast of smoked salmon and cream cheese on bagels, we loaded up our packs and sleds and headed up to 9400' to cache a load of fuel and food before returning to camp.
All is going well, and we're hoping to move camp to 11,200' tomorrow. We'll keep you up to date. Thanks for checking in!
RMI Guide Mike Walter and the team
On The Map
Posted by: Leon Davis, Mike King
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Seminar
Friday, May 6, 2016 - 9:40 p.m. PDT
We held our breath this morning peering outside the vestibule, expecting to see a foot of snow and nothing else. Instead we found an inch of new snow and a cloudy glacier with low visibility. We enjoyed a pancake breakfast and packed as much gear as we could without taking the tents down. By late morning the cloud ceiling rose just high enough for us to see and that was good enough. By one o'clock we we walking down Heartbreak Hill with enough supplies to last four days. It was a beautiful quiet walk up the main flow of the Kahiltna and by 4:30 we were at the base of Ski Hill making camp next to Mike Walter's Denali team and a group of soldiers. Our crew is strong and looking forward to moving camp tomorrow to 10,000 ft, provided we can double down on our bet that the weather forecast will prove wrong one more time.
RMI Guide Leon Davis
Today the seminar team had a fine time learning and drilling crevasse rescue techniques. Colder today than the previous few, we bundled up and traveled a few minutes from camp to a nice staging area above a deep blue hole. The team first drilled pulling a snow-filled duffel out before practicing with a live load. Everyone got the opportunity to experience the inside of a crevasse as well as pulling a teammate out of one. Clouds are starting to build over Foraker as a southwest flow moves it's way into our area and by late morning, silence filled the arena that hummed with the activity of planes flying into Basecamp. Before dinner we rigged our sleds and packed some gear for our anticipated move from BC and up the Kahiltna glacier tomorrow. An early and quiet goodnight from the expedition skills seminar.
RMI Guide Leon Davis
On The Map
So proud of you Justin Nezda. Sounds like you’re getting the complete cold Alaska experience. Sending you good thoughts and wish you luck on the upcoming challenges. Can’t wait to hear all about when you come home. Love you, Erin
Posted by: Erin on 5/6/2016 at 8:56 am
Posted by: Mike Walter, Billy Haas, Blake Votilla
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Thursday, May 5, 2016 - 10:17 a.m. PDT
The RMI Office received word that RMI Guide Mike Walter and the May 3rd Denali Expedition has departed Talkeetna enroute to base camp on the Kahiltna Glacier. The team boarded K2 Aviation's Otter planes round 9 a.m. local time for their 45 minute flight into the Alaska Range.
The RMI Denali climbing season is officially underway!
On The Map
Wednesday, May 4, 2016 - 10:29 p.m PDT
Today the team went out to stretch their legs and explore the various corners of the Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. We left camp early in the cold, biting air of morning and made our way up to a basin on the north side of the Radio Tower. Recent snow made for a lot of trail breaking to gain the north ridge. After crossing the bergschrund, we found the ridge to be very steep, firm underfoot, and very exposed. Our options were limited with the gear we had and the nature of the potential consequences. So we made the summit ridge our high point and descended to set up some fixed line work and anchor building. The team is in good spirits, eager to learn, and attentive to their well being. Tomorrow we explore the inside of a crevasse to see how deep the rabbit hole really goes.
RMI Guides Leon Davis and Mike King
On The Map
Posted by: Mike Walter, Billy Haas, Blake Votilla
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Wednesday, May 4, 2016 - 9:01 p.m.
Here we go! Everyone's travel arrangements worked out brilliantly the past couple of days and we all met in Anchorage yesterday afternoon and drove north to Talkeetna, a quaint little climbing village and the gateway to the Alaska Range.
This morning we had an early orientation meeting with the National Park Service in Talkeetna where we discussed the route, leave no trace practices, and some of the history of Denali climbing.
Then, after brunch at the historic Talkeetna Roadhouse, we spent the rest of the day at K2 Aviation's hangar checking our equipment and packing for our expedition. After a long day of sorting gear and weighing packs, we are confident that we are ready for out expedition on the West Buttress of Denali.
The plan is to fly in to Base Camp on the Kahiltna Glacier tomorrow morning, weather permitting. From there, we'll be busy climbing for the next few weeks towards the apex of North America. We will be sending dispatches via satellite interface, and will try to make that technological magic work on a daily basis. Thanks for following along!
RMI Guides Mike Walter, Billy Haas, Blake Votilla and the Team
It was so wonderful to hear from you this morning, Tuesday 10th. You sound good and in high spirits. We are all so very proud of you and we are thinking of you everyday. Dont give up. Remeber - “Go Large”
chat again soon, lots of love, hugs and kisses from all of us xxx
Posted by: melanie on 5/9/2016 at 9:55 pm
To Dave:
Go Guy !!!! Be Safe!!!!!
Love Jon and Grammy.
Posted by: jon hines and grammy hines on 5/7/2016 at 9:46 am
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Tuesday, May 3, 2016 - 9:31 p.m.
This morning we woke up to a few inches of light snow and little visibility. Our goal today was to fortify camp with walls cut from snow and our team worked fast together. By early afternoon the sun cast a blue light down glacier and the north buttress of Hunter made itself present with its steep rock and ice. The team finished by 1300 and relaxed for a short while under a warm sun. Before dinner we sat together to review some knots and hitches and prepare for a climb up Radio Tower tomorrow morning. Every once in a while I catch the team standing quietly, shovels in hand, pausing to take in the surrounding splendor before returning to their work. All is very well here in our snowy castle.
RMI Guide Leon Davis
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Monday, May 2, 2016 - 10:03 p.m.
Greetings Blog Followers!
Our first Alaska Mountaineering Seminar - Expedition is doing fine at Kahiltna Base Camp! Our morning in Talkeetna, AK was anything but slow and leisurely as we performed many logistic moves in order to get ahead of the changing weather forecast. We made it onto K2 Aviation's Otters by noon and made camp quickly in great weather. Despite being thrust into action on a compressed time schedule, the team worked very well together displaying great work ethic and sense if humor. It's 9:00 p.m and we are all warm and happy in tents looking forward to fortifying camp tomorrow.
Good night friends and family from the southeast fork of the Kahiltna Glacier; we'll check in again tomorrow.
RMI Guides Leon Davis and Mike King
On The Map
Posted by: Brent Okita, Elias de Andres Martos
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 13,000'
The Winter Seminar aborted their summit attempt this morning. At 13,000' the team came upon a crevasse making that elevation their high point. RMI Guide Brent Okita reported that winds were about 30-35 mph and some blue skies were peeking through cloud layers above and below them on the mountain.
The guides said everyone on the team did an amazing job and all are safely back at Camp Muir enjoying some hot drinks. Once the team refuels, they are going to do some more training before calling it a day.
RMI Guides Brent Okita and Elias de Andres Martos
Way to go Jason!
Posted by: Brian on 4/15/2016 at 8:22 am
I’m so proud of you JoshuaBlu! I can’t wait to hear all about this trip!
Posted by: Melinda on 4/15/2016 at 7:54 am
Posted by: Brent Okita, Elias de Andres Martos
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 10,000'
The April 10th Winter Seminar had a beautiful day on the Muir Snowfield. The strong crew made their way up to Camp Muir taking in the Cascades and surrounding views. The team, being led by RMI Guides Brent Okita and Elias de Andres Martos, checked in this morning. The winds during the night at Camp Muir had some strong gusts but are currently tapering off. The team checked in via radio while having breakfast and getting ready for a day of training.
WoW !!!! What an amazing landscape !!!! Hope you’ll be able to climb up to the summit :)
Posted by: Marika, Philipe, Rémy & Mayla on 4/13/2016 at 3:23 pm
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Well done so far, Rogan and team, I wish I was eating bagels and salmon, enjoy! Keep warm and hope the weather just gets better every day! Love you lots, mom xx
Posted by: Daphne Carew on 5/9/2016 at 1:54 pm
David W hines -
having a wonderful mothers day, full of great barbecue ribs chicken sausage mess you and tim stay SAFE
mom
Posted by: ann hines on 5/8/2016 at 11:55 am
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