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Entries from Expedition Dispatches


Denali Expedition: Weather Keeps Walter & Team at 11,000 ft Camp

May 12, 2016 - 5:35 pm PT We woke early to blue skies and light wind at our 11,000' camp. But soon cloud cover increased and the winds picked up as well. Currently it is snowing with gusty winds as we enjoy another rest day at 11,000'. We are poised to make the move to 14,000' Camp, but it wasn't in the cards for today. Instead, we took advantage of down time to practice cutting snow blocks and building snow walls to fortify camp. The main accomplishment of the day was the creation of the Ig-loo, our snowblock enclosed bathroom. We are in good spirits and are resting and acclimating for our forays up higher on the mountain. All is well and we'll touch base again tomorrow. RMI Guide Mike Walter

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

hey my love - Rogan - its your better half - all is good at home and rather cold.  Hosting a boy from Westville and his name is Dean he is double the size of Robin and Andrew - big boy and yet he is U14C like Andrew - had a good supper and all relaxed and ready for bed - early start to the morning as the boys have to be at Pretoria before 8h00 - only going to get home around 16h30 Saturday…  I have made arrangments for Jenna to say with Daphne for the day tomorrow as I do not see her wanting to stay at the rugby all day.  Will hopefully get a call from you sometime Saturday - Robin will be with Shan so you will only be able to chat to Andrew and Jenna - I hope you guys are all doing well and heading up that mountain.  Hopefully the weather is good for your guys—Keep going and be strong.  Love you xxxx

Posted by: melanie on 5/13/2016 at 10:53 am

Hey Rogz, all is well at home and rather cool this side of the world but nothing compares to what you are all experiencing.  Going to fetch the boys this afternoon - Friday and then we have rugby the whole day Saturday - yippee for me and you know how I love RUGBY xxx Off to hospital Monday morning before 6 - wish me luck - all will be fine and I have sorted everything out for lifts too school and home again.  Maybe I will get a chance to actually do some reading whilst I rest and get my knee sorted…  Thinking of you. Love you and miss you lots - Take it easy and be careful please xxxx Wishing for blue skies for the rest of the trip so you guys can keep climbing xxx

Posted by: melanie on 5/13/2016 at 2:31 am


Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Fly Onto the Glacier

The May 10th Denali Expedition led by RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Robby Young and Jess Matthews flew onto the lower Kahiltna Glacier this morning right on schedule. Pete and the team will check in throughout their expedition with updates on the team's progress. Stay tuned!
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Homey…!  so beautiful photos coming out of there.  Hope you are kickin butt up there.!!!

Posted by: greg on 5/16/2016 at 11:58 am

God speed and all good blessings and energy, kick some ass Faulky!

Posted by: Ben Lav on 5/13/2016 at 2:14 pm


Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Check in from 11,000 ft Camp

May 11, 2016 - 1:25 pm PT Well, the forecast was correct and we had snow and wind overnight. So we decided to stay at 11,000' camp and enjoy a rest day after our carry to 13,700' yesterday. Most of today is being spent lounging around in our tents. Hopefully the forecast will continue to be correct and the rest of the week will see improving weather so that we can move up to 14,000'. Spirits are good, and are embracing these rest/weather days as we know they are making us stronger and more acclimated to the altitude. We'll check in again tomorrow, hopefully from 14k on Denali. RMI Guide Mike Walter
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Davis, don’t fret about that maintenance free pond, you just focus on that dern summit. We’ll worry about the pond. All the best young man.

Posted by: Patrick Gillis on 5/12/2016 at 8:51 pm

Dave G. Awesome! Great stuff ahead. Fun following your journey.
Good luck to you and the team.

Posted by: Al on 5/12/2016 at 7:51 pm


Denali: Walter and Team Carry to 13,700’

Tuesday, May 10, 2016 - 10:00 p.m. PDT Our team had another productive day today, climbing up to 13,700 feet with a cache of supplies. It was great to be engaging some steeper terrain with crampons and ice axe. The constant 15 - 25 mile an hour wind (in our face as we ascended) increased the challenge. With a six hour round trip, we were back in camp in time to re-hydrate and rest before dinner. We are entertaining the notion of moving camp to 14,200 feet if we have good weather tomorrow. But, likely, we'll remain here at 11,000' as there is a high wind warning and near-blizzard conditions expected tonight and tomorrow. We'll keep you posted. RMI Guide Mike Walter and team

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Looks like you are doing well. Hope the wind and snow didn’t hinder the climb. Alls well here. Stay warm.

Love from all your family.
Lori.

Posted by: Lori pesta on 5/11/2016 at 1:39 pm

Great to hear everyone is doing well. Hoping the wind doesn’t effect your carries and you keep on schedule.

Stay safe, hydrate lots and eat plenty.

Good luck everyone especially the Saffers a long way from home, Adelle and Rogan.

Posted by: Mark on 5/11/2016 at 1:01 pm


Denali: Walter & Team Complete First Back Carry

Monday, May 9, 2016 - 11:35 p.m. PDT Hello from 11,000' on Denali! Our team had a great day today, as we were able to travel back down glacier to retrieve our cache. Now we're back at 11,000' and after a fulfilling dinner of quesadillas we are all set to make another carry up around Windy Corner (13,600') tomorrow, weather permitting. The weather forecast looks good for the next few days, and we're psyched to take advantage of it. It will be nice to trade in our sleds and snowshoes for ice axes and crampons. The approach is over and the climb is beginning. RMI Guide Mike Walter and team

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Adelle,

Thinking of you and can’t wait to hear all the stories when you return!!!

Posted by: Dada Bredell on 5/11/2016 at 2:47 am

Hi Adelle!!
Hope you are well and keeping strong.
Thinking of you and cheering for you all the way.
Lots of love
Anelise
xxx

Posted by: Anelise on 5/11/2016 at 2:05 am


Alaska Seminar: Davis & Team Descend to Base Camp

Monday, May 9, 2016 - 10:37 p.m. PDT Today was our last full day on the lower slopes of Denali and it was a beautiful one. We had hopes to give Kahiltna Dome another shot but the weather remains the same with snow and low visibility. So we packed camp and made our way down the Kahiltna Glacier towards base camp. We passed a few teams on their way up, slowly moving under their heavy loads and exchanged the customary greetings. We had the nine mile trek down glacier almost all to ourselves and the silence was sublime! Things are quiet here on the lower Kahiltna as no team has flown on in a few days. It is indeed a rare day to have such silence and solitude, without the drone of the planes that regularly come and go. It has been a great trip with a great crew and many are counting the days until their return to give Denali a try. RMI Guides Leon Davis and Mike King

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team

Denali: Walter & Team Opt for a Rest Day

Sunday, May 8, 2016 - 10:49 p.m. PDT Hey guys! Not much news to report today. We rose early and had breakfast with the intent of going back down the Kahiltna to retrieve our cache of supplies that we buried two days ago. But, winds and visibility on the Kahiltna, coupled with the fact that we could use a rest day, made us change our minds. Instead we got some much deserved rest at camp today. All in all it was a good day. Now we are eager and with rested legs to get our cache tomorrow so that we can continue working our way up this mountain. On another note, Happy Mother's Day! To all mothers, but especially to these great mothers: Jeanne, Lizard, Kelly, Mimi, Judy, Lynn, Kelly, Melanie, Daphne, Michele, Hao, Nancy Kay, Ann Irwin, Maureen, Toni, Nana, Mama, Maria, and Buffy. Goodnight and we'll check back in again tomorrow. RMI Guide Mike Walter and team

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Thanks for the Mothers Day wishes. Good luck with the weather and collecting your cache, I hope you can find it! Well done on the progress you have made so far dearest Rogan and the rest of the team. Wonderful photo posted on this blog. Lots of love, Mom xx

Posted by: Daphne Carew on 5/10/2016 at 2:01 pm

Hey congratulations on your climbing so far.  Keep up the good work and I look forward to climbing this mountain my self sometime in the future.

Posted by: Kevin on 5/10/2016 at 7:56 am


Alaska Seminar: Davis & Team Experience Kahiltna Whiteout

Sunday, May 8, 2016 - 9:39 p.m. PDT Today the team learned that not everyday can be blue skies filled with unicorns. We woke early this morning, fighting the temptation to stay in our warm cocoons, to a complete whiteout. Everything that came in contact with the atmosphere grew a layer of frost overnight and we could barely see more than 10 feet in front of us. But we brewed up, ate a quick breakfast, and began the waiting game. We would need full VFR (visual flight rule) conditions to venture onto Kahiltna Dome but alas the weather never improved. After some tent time the team went out to investigate some ice fall debris fallen from the east face for some classroom sessions. The biggest block, close to the size of a two-car garage, provided some fun ice climbing routes. We hope to wake up tomorrow to better weather in hopes of giving the Dome one last shot before heading back down stream. Goodnight from the great white north! RMI Guides Leon Davis and Mike King and team
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Aagh shame,  Rogan, but you might as well experience the good as well as the bad. Pity you missed the unicorns . At least you have team leaders who can make the best of the weather to teach you other things in the classroom sessions. Just keep happy and warm.
Lots of love and hugs, mom xx

Posted by: Daphne Carew on 5/10/2016 at 2:09 am

Hi Dave - Hope all is well and the white out is over.  Keep staying safe!
Love Cathy and Nick

Posted by: Cathy Grotjahn on 5/9/2016 at 2:25 pm


Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Camped at 11,000’ on West Buttress

May 8, 2016 - 9:05 am PT We are writing from our new home for the next few nights, 11k on Denali's West Buttress. We has splitter weather today and made slow, but efficient progress up the Kahiltna Glacier. Now we're in our sleeping bags after setting up camp, rehydrating, and watching the sunset. Tomorrow, we plan to return down the Kahiltna to retrieve the cache of food and fuel we left there yesterday. Thanks for checking in. RMI Guide Mike Walter and the team

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Great to hear of your progress. Keep up the good work all. David, the birds and fish are fed, pond pump is working, plants are watered, lawn is mowed, storm windows are not down…missing you molto!

Posted by: Nancy Hines on 5/9/2016 at 7:23 pm

Hi Rogan and rest of the team.

I saw this quote some time ago, and it reminds me how much respect I have for you all.

“I suggest going out to the nearest pub and getting completely, and utterly, wasted. Make sure you smoke at least 1 pack of unfiltered Camel’s. Get the full ashtray, pour a drink in it and then pour the mixture into a water bottle.
When you get home (ideally around 3:30am) stick the vile mixture into your freezer. Put on your best goretex and thermal layer. Climb in. At 5:30am, get out, drink (chew?) the mixture and go run the biggest flight of stairs you can find. Run until your heart threatens to explode.
Your dehydration caused by the alcohol should adequately simulate what you may experience at higher altitudes. Your lung capacity should be sufficiently impaired by the smokes to simulate a oxygen poor environment. The freezer episode should adequately replicate a bivy. Drinking the booze/butt mixture should simulate your lack of appetite…..
Oh — once your finished your workout, go to work (to replicate the long walk out).”
- Greg Hamilton suggesting an altitude training methodology.

To be honest, I am more than a little bit jealous. Enjoy every step and every moment, even when it’s tough.

Pieter and the Nel family from Cape Town, South Africa

Posted by: Pieter Nel on 5/9/2016 at 2:42 am


Alaska Seminar: Davis & Team Camped Near Kahiltna Dome

May 7, 2016 - 8:31 pm PT Good evening everyone, The team is hunkered down here at 9,600' camp near the base of the east face of Kahiltna dome. It was a fine warm day to drag our loads out of 7600' camp and set ourselves up for an attempt on the dome tomorrow morning. Lots of snow here off the beaten track so we are going to have some work to venture up the east face. Our team of four paired themselves down to one tent in order to lighten the load and sleep a bit warmer at night. Early to bed for us and an early rise in the morning. Hope everyone at home is warm and comfortable. RMI Guides Leon Davis & Mike King
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hey Kevin,
We are following you. Looking for photos. It really looks beautiful on the mountain. Way to cold for me. It’s 83 here in GA.
Stay safe. Keep warm. Can’t wait to hear about your trip.
Love ya.
Lori and Chuck.

Posted by: Lori Pesta on 5/8/2016 at 3:38 pm

Adelle van zyl..hi there.  Happy mothers day..may you have at least another one. Have a piece of cake and coffee up there.  Everything us cool here but not as cool as Dinali.  Looking for “selfies” of you and your old mountain friend or at least a spare Eskimo that you might run into on the mountain.  Live you lots.  Love from the Mornay family and Jaco family who are with Rina at the momeny.

Posted by: Mornay on 5/8/2016 at 1:18 am

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