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Entries from Expedition Dispatches


Mt. Elbrus: Casey Grom & Team Arrive in Moscow

The adventure starts today! All team members have safely arrived in Moscow without a glimpse of Edward Snowden. After our long flights here we keep things pretty laid-back tonight with a light meet and greet, then headed out for a quick dinner. Not far from our hotel is a great little place that serves up some wonderful beef stroganoff, so that's where we went. We took a short walk to stretch the legs and get a little dessert and have now retired to our hotel to catch up on some much needed sleep. Stay tuned! RMI Guide Casey Grom and crew
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Larry I hope you and the team have a great trip and climb!! I look forward to following your progress and seeing and hearing about this adventure!

Posted by: Paul Kinneberg on 7/7/2013 at 7:44 am

Looking good Larry in the pic…Sage / younger at same time…Ready to notch another…Go go go and Godspeed Walter…Tell the peak “hey”

Posted by: walter glover on 7/7/2013 at 7:08 am


Mt. Elbrus: Tucker & Team Check Into the Garabashi Hut

Well we are moving right along. Team is doing well after a couple of trams and a chair lift. Here we are at 12000', the Garabashi luxury dorm-type living. We are sticking with the normal program that has worked so well in the past. We did a nice three-hour hike, acclimatization is going well. Was under nice weather. We are just resting, hydrating, and nesting in our lovely barrel. We're waiting our turn in the dining area. There's a few other groups that are sharing our support crew up here and we're all getting along just fine. Although there is just one guy up here. I think he goes by JJ. You know there always has to be one of those in the bunch. So psyched the team is doing well. Should be another good night to catch up a little more on that jet lag. RMI Guide Mark Tucker


RMI Guide Mark Tucker calls in from the Garabashi Hut.

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

What am amazing sunset. How’s the vodka up there?

Posted by: Kathryn LeBey on 7/7/2013 at 5:10 am


Mt. Elbrus: Justman & Team Acclimatize to 15,200’

Swinging into full climbing mode, our team made a giant foray onto the upper slopes of Mount Elbrus. Hey everyone, this is JJ Justman with RMI and the first Elbrus team of the season. Of course proper acclimatization is key and everyone is doing very, very well. 15,200 feet was our max altitude that we reached today. Donning sharp crampons on our boots allowed us some good practice for our summit day. Now back at camp here feels a little thicker and once again, our cooks are pampering us with some of the best authentic Russian cuisine. After all I have a good saying that a well-fed climber is a strong climber and I do believe the one reason why Russian climbers are so strong, is a secret ingredient they put in the borscht, which is Russian homemade soup here. It's really delicious, our cooks are doing a great job. We're loving life up here on Mount Elbrus. But it is relax time to fully recover. As I mentioned, our team is doing really, really well. We are going to do a rest day tomorrow in preparation for our summit day, which as of right now, is looking like it is going to be Monday, so stay tuned. RMI Guide JJ Justman


RMI Guide JJ Justman calls in from Mt. Elbrus

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Godspeed, Bob Wang and RMI, Godspeed!

Rick de Dallas

Posted by: Rick Sims on 7/7/2013 at 2:29 pm

(Julie first removes pin hole glasses so not to type more errors)
TEXAS IS GETTING EXCITED FOR YOUR SUMMIT.
Amy, be sure to keep Ed in line. (what am I saying?) LIZ, keep both Ed and Amy in line.

Posted by: Julie Marx on 7/7/2013 at 9:55 am


Mt. Rainier: Update July 6th - Summit!

The Mt. Rainier Four Day Summit Climbs led by Paul Maier and Lindsay Mann reached the summit at 6:30 a.m. Both teams were able to enjoy the bluebird views for over an hour before beginning their descent at 7:50 a.m. Congratulations to the summit climbers!
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WOOOHOOO!!! Way to go everybody!
Dan- can’t wait to see you soon <3 <3 <3

Posted by: Roz on 7/6/2013 at 9:28 pm


Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Back in Talkeetna!

Saturday, July 6th, 2013 at 1:50 a.m. PST We made it! We stomped a runway. Ate breakfast. Went like Vikings to raid a cache (unsuccessfully). Made two hours of quesadillas. Packed up camp for incoming airplane. Listened as incoming airplane went away. Made camp again. Made dinner. Packed up camp as planes came back. Flew back to civilization!! Pizza. Welcome home! RMI Guides Mike Haugen, Mike Uchal, Katie Bono and the RMI Summit Team 6

On The Map

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Thank you RMI, Mike and team for keeping everyone safe and heading in the right direction! Congratulations to all! Have safe journeys home. Steve, I can’t wait to see you!

Posted by: Tania on 7/6/2013 at 3:53 pm

I spoke to Quinn early this morning when you made it down and he called again today. Thank you Mike and the team for taking great care of our loved ones. Have a great rest of the climbing season and God speed.

Posted by: George Landers on 7/6/2013 at 1:37 pm


Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Summit!

Saturday, July 6th, 2013 1:39 a.m. PST Hi all. This is Pete, Geoff, Robby and team from Mt. McKinley. We are happy to report that we stood on top of North America today! Had our weather window show up and went for it. The whole team stood on top. It was a little bit blustery, but everybody did a great job. We were on top about 6:30 this evening. Now we are all back at 17K Camp safe and sound enjoying a Ramen dinner and getting ready to sack out before we start looking at moving down the mountain tomorrow. So hope everybody is well and glad to be able to give good news. Will talk later, bye. RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer


RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer calls in after summit success!

On The Map

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Derek, Congrats on your climb! I’m in North Pole AK and have been looking at the mountain from the fire. ICP is at elem. school stop by if possible.
Stay Safe,
Kim

Posted by: Kim Lemke on 7/10/2013 at 2:20 pm

Way to go!!! Can’t wait to hear the tales, Wy.  What an awesome accomplishment.  It’s almost like being able to say, “I walked on the moon!” :)  Love you!

Posted by: Donna Evenson on 7/7/2013 at 9:01 pm


Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Carry to 13,600’

Friday, July 5th, 2013 10:57 p.m. PST Finally a break in the weather. Things calmed down during the night and the upper layer of clouds began to dissipate. As we watched for an hour or two beginning at 5 AM, the weather went back and forth for a while, but once we committed to getting the team up and getting going, it all began to go our way. We dealt with slightly cooler temperatures and steady breezes as we left camp at 9 AM for our carry, but we had big blue skies overhead which was great for everybody's morale. Snow conditions were perfect for walking, which was a little surprising after so many days of falling snow. It seems that it had been such a long dry spell previously, that the surface had gotten firm from wind and sun. When new snow landed on that surface, it just blew clean. At any rate, it was perfect for our crampons today. We got up Motorcycle Hill and halfway up Squirrel Hill in the first hour, which entitled us to enjoy grand views of The Northwest Buttress and the Peter's Glacier. The second hour took us into the "Polo Field" as folks now call the basin which the end of the West Buttress towers over. We moved through this area without much visibility as another cloud had found us. By the time we reached Windy Corner, we were walking out of the cloud and getting big views again. Windy Corner has been a concern for several weeks now as the June heat wave had produced a rockfall hazard in the area. But there had to be some benefit to the storm that was keeping us down, it froze things up nicely above the corner and our passage was fast and safe. We cached food and fuel at 13,600', just past the corner. It had taken four and a half hours to reach our destination. We buried things deep to thwart the cache robbing ravens, and then began an easy descent with light packs. By 3:45, we were back in camp, basking in sunshine. There is still plenty of cloud around, but for the moment it is below us. We hope it stays that way as we want to move to 14,200' tomorrow. All were excited and energized to finally see beyond the corner. Denali's South Peak was no longer far away or on some horizon, it was front and center... and gigantic. Best Regards, RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

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Dave and Team-

Good to hear that you are finally able to move.  I arrived in Moscow yesterday with Casey Grom and teamates.  We fly up to the Elbrus area tomorrow morning.

-Larry Seaton

Posted by: Larry Seaton on 7/6/2013 at 9:49 pm

Dear Will and team: Glad that you can finally get on the move again, and that it was a good weather for the most part. Heard from Amy yesterday, and she relayed the news. Your Dad says hi, and sends his love. Hope today brings another day of good climbing.

Posted by: Vicki on 7/6/2013 at 10:30 am


Mt. Elbrus: Tucker & Team Hike in the Cheget Ski Area

Nice to be in the mountains, especially the Caucasus. What a nice range of peaks it is. A bit of sun, a little cloudy at times, and some wind made for a nice variety during our day of hiking. We used the chair lifts to put us into thin air and then climbed to around 11,000'. Had a momentary glimpse of the Mt. Elbrus' upper mountain but saving the prolonged clear for summit day and time we will spend high on the flanks of the tallest peak in Europe. Good planning indeed. Ran across a number of guide friends today and played a good trick on one of them. The team got into character and did not break till we totally fooled my pal. They met him on the trail and immediately surrounded him saying how great to see you again, giving him hugs and the whole enchilada, while I kept just off stage watching his reaction. He was pretty cool, trying to remember what trip or where he knew them from, being old friends and all to this group of five ladies, acting as if yes, I might just remember you. We all had a good laugh after I showed myself. I better keep an eye out for he will definitely try to get me back. The team did great today on the hike. We are all well and having a fun time. RMI Guide Mark Tucker

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Chair lift? Now that’s the way to “climb” a mountain! Like to see the dismount from said lift with pack. Does my heart good to see Lucy’s hair still perfect after 4 days in Russia and Sasha in her colorful gear. Fully expect Laura to be in green. Mark has just tapped the potential for humor for this group. He has no idea. Love to you all

Posted by: Kathryn LeBey on 7/6/2013 at 4:58 am

ambushed by five attractive ladies, not a bad joke

Posted by: John on 7/5/2013 at 1:34 pm


Mt. Rainier: July 5th Update - Summit!

Today’s Four Day Summit Climbs led by Jake Beren and Eric Frank reached the Mt. Rainier summit this morning. The teams are currently descending to Camp Muir and will be in Ashford later this afternoon. The Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz led by Seth Waterfall is descending to Paradise after their successful summit yesterday. His team took a photo before they left their camp this morning (below). Congratulations to today's summit climbers!
Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Yeah Josh! KILLIN IT! There are some TALL people in your climbing group. Way to represent the midgets.

Posted by: Catalina Troche on 7/5/2013 at 10:43 pm


Cotopaxi Express: Walter & Team Relaxing after a Successful Summit

We had a great climb of Cotopaxi yesterday, and everyone summitted! We took advantage of cool weather and firm snow conditions and were able to climb during the day yesterday, hiking only the approach to the glacier in the dark. The weather was great, with no wind all day. The team climbed very strongly up the steep slopes of Cotopaxi, and had enough gas left in the tank to enjoy the summit and climb safely back down to the climbers' hut in 10 1/2 hours round trip. We had great views along the way, being able to see many of Ecuador's high peaks, including Cayambe, Antisana, the Illinizas, the Pichinchas, Cotocachi, Imbabura, and El Corazon, as well as the beautiful mosaic of Andean farmlands far below us. We spent last night relaxing at the climbers' hut and descended to our waiting vehicles this morning. Now we are at the beautiful Hosteria La Cienega, enjoying hot showers, lower altitude, and the comforts of life off of the mountain. Congrats to our team for a successful summit of Cotopaxi! RMI Guide Mike Walter
Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

I just wanted to congratulate everyone for a successful climb! RTR!

Posted by: Kevin B. Danley on 7/6/2013 at 9:36 am

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