Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Take it to 11K Camp

June 22, 2014

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Geoff Schellens

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,200'

June 22, 2014 - 12:49 am PT Today we woke to a cold, windy morning at high camp after yesterday's amazing summit. The blowing snow and frigid temperatures kept us tent-bound until mid-day, when the allure of thicker air and warmer temperatures finally got us motivated to pack up and get moving. The first stretch down the buttress was windy and cold, but by the time we reached Washburn's Thumb it was much warmer and calmer. We made quick work of the last stretch to the lines, and then shot down the fixed ropes like it was our job. Soon we were dropping packs back in 14k camp, saying hey to Billy Nugent and Mike Haugen and their respective teams, picking up our cache and getting ready to move further down. Soon enough, we got past Squirrel and Motorcycle Hills, revisiting our old stomping grounds at 11k. We pulled out all the cheese, meat, tortillas, and bagels we had, and commenced to put them all onto the griddle for the annual tradition of the "11,000' Cheese Fry". Basically we just cook all the goodness until folks are full, and then it's off to bed for the early am launch. We're definitely missing the team members who had to head home early, and hope that everyone is warm and dry. Lots of walking left, but we should be at the airstrip tomorrow if all goes according to plan. We'll check back then! Cheers, RMI Guides Garrett Stevens, Tyler Jones, Geoff Schellens and the No Troubles team

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Dave!
I can’t begin to know how you feel about what you’ve accomplished! Can’t wait to see you and hear it all through your eyes. Besides we need you…Tristan can’t keep up the pace and is buckling under the pressure of trying to fill your shoes :-)

Posted by: Suzanne on 6/23/2014 at 2:34 am

John, so proud of you and the rest of the team, have been helping you along, knew you could do it! See you soon here in the nice hot valley. Farmor

Posted by: Farmor on 6/22/2014 at 7:14 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Mission Accomplished

June 22, 2014

Posted by: Mike Haugen

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

June 22, 2014 - 12:41 am PT We woke up early to cold temperatures. The skies were clear and the winds were calm. After a good breakfast we set out to carry gear up higher. Not too long after we started climbing, the weather began to turn. Snow began to blow at us as we approached the fixed lines that go up to 16,200'. The weather was never too terrible, but it was never good. We decided to cache our gear at the top of the fixed lines and head back to camp. Rest day/acclimatization day tomorrow. RMI Guide Mike Haugen and Team "The Ocho"

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Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Have a Snow/Rest Day

June 22, 2014

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Chase Nelson

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

June 22, 2014 - 12:04 am PT A snowy day here at 14K... Howdy all. Our team enjoyed a weather/rest day after our back-carry yesterday. Winds up on the West Buttress and steady snow through most of the day kept us from making an attempt at a carry up to 17K Camp. Tomorrow's weather outlook is a bit more promising and we are hoping to capitalize. On a brighter note, the two successful RMI teams came down from the summit and spent some time with us on their descent to the airstrip. It was a fun reunion for everyone and I congratulated those guys on their success and wish them safe passage down the Kahiltna. Wurd. RMI Guide Billy Nugent

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Eric: Prayers and crossed fingers for clear weather over the next three days! Being on top with blue skies and marginal wind would be awesome! Be smart & safe! Paul

Posted by: Paul on 6/23/2014 at 11:42 am

Michael & Bruce…sending you so much love and prayers from NYC…thinking of you guys and our amazing Kili adventure. You are both awesome and I KNOW you & your team will have incredible stories to share! Cannot wait to hear all about your climb and see your pics! Love you! xoxo Christine & the Shortman

Posted by: Christine on 6/22/2014 at 6:05 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Knoff & Team’s Sunless Solstice

June 22, 2014

Posted by: Adam Knoff, Lindsay Mann

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 9,600'

June 21, 2014 - 11:38 pm PT This morning the team woke to some clouds in the sky and a lenticular on the top of the Mt. McKinley. We got ready for the day while we waited for Adam to get the final words from the mountain gods on our next move. If only we knew what the mountain gods had in store for us... Heavy loads up Ski Hill came first, followed by snow falling in a microwave followed by setting up camp in a serious snowstorm. The team made such impressive camp walls that a solo climber decided to use them as protection also for the night. The best news of the day though is that today marked our last uphill single carry of the trip. Happy solstice! RMI Guides Adam Knoff, Andy Hildebrand and Lindsay Mann

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Ecuador: Walter & Team Spend Their First Night at the Cayambe Climber’s Hut

June 21, 2014

Posted by: Mike Walter

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador

Elevation: 15,300'

Hola from the climber's hut on Cayambe! We just enjoyed a high-altitude soup and bread dinner at 15,300'. Everyone is doing great up here. We'll touch base soon. RMI Guide Mike Walter

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Hi Tommy! Thinking of you :) One foot in front of the other all the way to the summit! Stay strong! Can’t wait to hear all about it when you arrive home. Have fun and be safe! Good luck tomorrow! Sending love and support from MN! Miss you!

Posted by: Lizzie on 6/22/2014 at 8:00 pm

Hi Shobita and Team,

It looks like your goal is getting closer. That’s a nice picture of the summit. It looks like you’ll have good weather for the summit. Stay strong!

Posted by: randy shetter on 6/22/2014 at 8:17 am

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Mt. McKinley: Knoff & Team - Kahiltna Dreams

June 21, 2014

Posted by: Adam Knoff, Lindsay Mann

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,800'

June 21, 2014 - 8:11 am PT The transition from the sweet smell of blooming cotton woods, green grass, the easy access to showers to a life of arctic surroundings, grinding work and confined tent living comes abruptly! This morning that reality was as large as the towering mountains around us but the team motivated quickly and with resolve to get our grand adventure underway. The mental weight of shouldering a 60-pound pack connected to a 50-pound sled and then hauling it into an arena like the Kahiltna Glacier can be far more intimidating than the actual physical load. Faced with this challenge our team shined! We were thrilled to walk out of Base Camp at 9:30 this morning onto the smoothest most user-friendly trail I have seen in all my nine trips to this glacier. Not only was the trail superb, we had the weather to match. Five hours after leaving BC we arrived at Camp One. At only 7,800 feet the vertical gain was not all that much but the distance was enough under monster loads to assure us this journey will not be an easy one. Tomorrow we will attempt to move again. Stay tuned. RMI Guide Adam Knoff signing off

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Sounds like a day in the making. Best of luck. Fair trails and following winds.
Gary

Posted by: Gary Butcher on 6/23/2014 at 4:56 pm

Looks like day one was a beautiful blue sky day! Hopefully everyone is feeling strong and rested for day two. Good luck to everyone and may the good weather continue.
JH

Posted by: Jerry Hildebrand on 6/22/2014 at 6:06 am

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Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team - Patience Delivers the Summit

June 21, 2014

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Geoff Schellens

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 17,200'

June 21, 2014 - 2:56 am PT Well, you probably heard our summit phone call from earlier today, so this is just the follow-up to that. We had a heck of a day here in the high altitudes of North America, rising from the tents early this morning to cold temperatures, light winds, and high clouds. We decided that it was going to be a day for an attempt, and once we had basked in the sun for a bit we headed over to the shade of the Autobahn. Two hours later we had passed the difficulties of the pickets and the exposure below, and we stepped out around Denali Pass. The weather was still a bit in and out, but the No Troubles crew was moving well so we kept at it. Up steep rolls, over undulating terrain, and higher and higher we climbed. We passed familiar landmarks as the day went on, like Zebra Rocks, Archdeacon's Tower, the Football Field, and finally crested onto the summit ridge in cold wind and clear blue skies. Late this afternoon, we reached the highest point on this continent, and emotions ran high as we hugged, high-fived, and snapped photos. Jake's team came up onto the top just as we were getting ready to head down, and we were thrilled to share that special moment with them. This team has had a full value experience, especially with all the uncertainty and waiting that we've endured. Now it's time for one last hot drink and then into the bag for a much-deserved rest. Down tomorrow, hopefully the weather holds for a flight soon! Cheers, RMI Guides Tyler, Geoff, Garrett and the No Troubles team

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Congratulations!! We were there in ‘96 with RMI in total whiteout. Enjoy the views!!!

Posted by: Keith on 6/22/2014 at 8:55 am

Jennifer - Congrats on your successful climb. Jacob

Posted by: Jacob on 6/22/2014 at 8:21 am

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Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team are at 14K, Fully Stocked

June 21, 2014

Posted by: Billy Nugent, Chase Nelson

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

June 20, 2014 - 10:08 pm PT Back-carry from Windy Corner to 14K Camp? Mission accomplished. We enjoyed the best weather of the trip today. Morning snow flurries gave way to sapphire skies and gorgeous views of the entire range. Our back-carry only took us a couple of hours to complete so we spent the rest of the day soaking in the grandeur of the Alaska Range. They're calling for over a foot of snow tomorrow so we may end up taking a weather day but the trend is supposedly clearing Sunday through Tuesday. Could be our window? We'll see... RMI Guide Billy Nugent from 14K Camp

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Bruce
Keeping the gym boys up on your progress
Good luck to the summit

Posted by: Edward Gramm on 6/21/2014 at 8:50 pm

Eric,
Good job and make sure you are carrying extra weight in your pack so you have practice when you have to carry mine again :-)

Posted by: Jenny Olson on 6/21/2014 at 7:44 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Rest Day at 14K Camp

June 21, 2014

Posted by: Mike Haugen

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

June 20, 1014 - 10:00 pm PT We woke up this morning when the sun hit the tent. It was a cold morning here on Denali so it took us awhile to get out and about. We were on a rest/acclimatization day so we ate, drank, and took care of some chores to get us ready for our cache day up high tomorrow. Our plan is to carry some gear to somewhere between here and 17,000' camp. The actual cache spot will depend on how well we are feeling and what the weather gives us. RMI Guide Mike Haugen Team "The Ocho"

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Was a great day in the Cascades. Too bad you din’t have our weather. View of 3 volcanoes from the top of Bandera

Posted by: Ron on 6/21/2014 at 5:28 pm

Anchorage 30mph winds and poring rain. But better than wenatchee. Miss you, stay warm

Posted by: Gwyn on 6/21/2014 at 4:08 pm

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Mt. Rainier: June 21st Update

June 21, 2014

Posted by: Kel Rossiter, Zeb Blais

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

At 7:20 a.m. PT the Mount Rainier Four Day Summit Climbs led by Kel Rossiter and Zeb Blais were just about to crest the crater rim. They reported 10 mph winds from the north and perfectly blue skies. Congratulations to today's summit climb teams!

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Just want to acknowledge the great experience we had with our RMI guides. Zeb, Christina and Nick were absolute aces guiding us to the top. They were spot on from the orientation, training and especially through the climb. I can’t imagine a better team and thank them for a great experience. Hope we can all meet up again…

Tom

Posted by: Tom on 7/1/2014 at 5:08 pm

Yay, Daddy! Did you have fun?
Love, Lilia and Nina

Posted by: Nina and Lilia on 6/21/2014 at 10:25 am

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Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Take it to 11K Camp

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Mission Accomplished

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team Have a Snow/Rest Day

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Knoff & Team’s Sunless Solstice

On The Map

Ecuador: Walter & Team Spend Their First Night at the Cayambe Climber’s Hut

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Knoff & Team - Kahiltna Dreams

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team - Patience Delivers the Summit

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Nugent & Team are at 14K, Fully Stocked

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Haugen & Team Rest Day at 14K Camp

On The Map

Mt. Rainier: June 21st Update

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