Entries from Expedition Dispatches
We woke to calm conditions and good sunshine around 9 AM today. After breakfast and a powwow among the guide companies regarding route conditions, weather predictions, emergency procedures and communications, we got into some basic review of how we intend to rig up and climb Vinson. At 4 PM, when the sun was getting good and strong, we roped up and set out for an acclimatization hike up the first few hills of the climbing route. Conditions were pleasant -by which I mean that we were warm and comfortable as long as we kept moving. We got a few miles up the Branscomb Glacier to where we could start to see neighboring peaks like Shinn and Epperly, to the north. By 7 PM we were back in camp, just as clouds began to form up and obscure the views. We had a long and leisurely supper in our dining tent, and headed for the sleeping tents at 11 PM. Weather forecasts call for some potential nastiness these next couple of days... we’ll hope they are wrong, but of course basecamp is not a bad place to be if the predictions pan out.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
Greetings from Vinson Base Camp, 7000 feet in elevation on the Branscomb Glacier. We were reasonably confident that we’d get here today, but it wasn’t a slam dunk. The weather wasn’t quite right at the start of the day for flying through big mountains, so we took it easy, enjoying breakfast and lunch in the fine dining tent at Union Glacier. The clouds out at Vinson began to break and a Twin Otter fired up to start doing laps. Ours was the third lap... off and on again as clouds drifted in and out, but finally on for real. We left Union a bit after 4 PM and considered ourselves lucky to squeak in to VBC... there were no more laps after ours as snow clouds rolled into the Branscomb. We began building camp at 5 PM. It took a bit to get sorted out, dug in and anchored down, but we were right where we wanted to be for all of that. Eventually the team assembled for dinner in our very own, freshly built dining tent. The snow clouds rolled out again and we had views of Vinson’s great Western escarpment and even of the summit pyramid up at 16,000 ft. It stayed cloudy and murky in every other direction, but we got enough sun to make going to bed easy. It is definitely colder here, up about 4,000 feet higher than where we started today, but right now, at midnight it is pleasantly calm and the sun is shining on our camp.
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Unbelievable pics!! Have an amazing time!! Go Doug and the rest of the team….
Lynn and Brad
Posted by: Lynn Bishop on 11/28/2018 at 8:28 am
Posted by: Dave Hahn
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Vinson Massif
Sure enough, we lucked out. I’m touching base from the Union Glacier at about 80 degrees South Latitude. Our flight was smooth and easy. We made a stop in Ushuaia across the border in Argentina, before leaving South America. The runway in Punta has a construction project underway, effectively shortening the strip for the time being, so we took off light and then topped off fuel supplies in Tierra del Fuego. Then it was off across the Drake Passage and a few hours later we were winging our way over endless ice. The Russian crew brought the Ilyushin 76 down perfectly on the Union ice runway at around 3:30 PM. We bundled up and trundled down the stairs to take our first slippery steps on the continent. It was blowing about 30 knots but the cold wasn’t vicious -just about -9 C- so we snapped a few shots of the airplane and surroundings before mounting up in a highly modified Ford van on big wheels. The twenty-minute journey on a snow highway took us to the other side of the Union Glacier, where winds were mild and where a fine basecamp and support staff welcomed the team. After a brief tour and orientation to environmental and safety concerns, we sat in the dining tent for some hot soup. At that point it was thought that we’d only be in Union a short time before flying out to Vinson Base in the ski equipped Twin Otters, but before long the word came that the weather at Vinson had deteriorated. We ate dinner and went out to build tents in our own deteriorated weather. There was snow and blowing snow to make the job a little more interesting. It certainly would have been convenient to hop right out to Vinson, but none of us minded the chance to dine at Union and to socialize with the staff and fellow climbers and adventurers.
We’ll turn in for a first “night” without darkness, and we’ll see what the morning brings.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
So glad to see you are at base camp! Wishing you all wind beneath your wings. Pics are terrific.
Posted by: Kathy on 11/28/2018 at 6:22 am
Posted by: Dave Hahn
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Vinson Massif
So far, so good. We left our Punta Arenas hotel at 6 this morning to come out to the airport. After a little wait-and-see period, we’ve loaded onto the plane at 9:45 and the engines are spooling up. All systems are go.
With any luck, the next dispatch will be from Antarctica.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Posted by: Dave Hahn
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Vinson Massif
Our bags are packed and stowed on the Ilyushin 76... the big four engine Russian Jet that will take us down to the Ice. We hope to be off deck first thing tomorrow morning, but that will certainly depend on the weather. The gear got weighed and gathered up just after nine in the morning, so we had plenty of time to go strolling along the shore of Magellan’s Strait. Our next official function was a briefing/cocktail party at ALE headquarters at 4 PM. Antarctic Logistics and Expeditions- is our outfitter and they gathered the fifty or so passengers for our flight to orient and educate us on the trip South. They issued Pisco Sours served over Antarctic ice for the occasion, which was something of a reunion for the guides and frequent climbers in the group. They explained that the weather needs to improve a little, but that there is some reason to hope that it will for a flight tomorrow. My team of five went out for a last restaurant meal and then called it an early evening. We’ll get up early...around 5AM... and we’ll see if conditions have improved.
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Posted by: Dave Hahn
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Vinson Massif
A Vinson climb in the heart of Antarctica begins with a heck of a lot of airplane and airport time. Over the past two days my team assembled in Punta Arenas in Southern Chile. Today, the five of us met after breakfast and began to go over the details of how we’ll get from South America to the Ice. It was an easy day of packing personal gear and resting in hotel rooms. Outside, the weather swirled and cycled in a typical late November Patagonian mad mix. The wind generally howled and white caps were everywhere out on the Straits of Magellan. Rain showers alternated with intense sunshine and blue sky. In the early evening, we walked a few blocks along the busy streets to a trusted restaurant and enjoyed a casual dinner while discussing colder places. We’ll have tomorrow to complete our preparations and these last two nights to get over our jet lag.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Thinking many warm and fuzzy thoughts to all of you. Can’t believe that this morning I complained about a few flurries in Worthington!
Posted by: Janet Brennan on 11/27/2018 at 9:01 am
Looking forward to reading about your adventures Matt! The Theta Chi team is behind you 10%!
Posted by: Steve Magas on 11/25/2018 at 8:23 am
And it is a wrap up!
The last two days have been probably the quickest to go by. Descending from Ama Dablam Base Camp was an easy task, enhanced by every step we took, as every foot of elevation we lost, made our bodies invigorate.
Joining the main Everest trail was a colorful experience of different nationalities, which we almost forgot in the relatively isolated expedition we had.
Arriving in Lukla definitely provides a sense of accomplishment, closing the trail loop we started nearly one month ago.
Now we are at the mercy of the weather to leave the mountains behind in our airplane tomorrow.
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
Wow! This is on my bucket list.
Posted by: Richard Henry on 11/20/2018 at 7:55 am
Hello from Ama Dablam Base Camp!
Are you unsuccessful when you don't reach the summit of one of your objectives?
Well, I think that if you have carefully prepared for it and put yourself in the best position for it, despite little odds in our favor according to the forecast, and you make the decision to head down because the one thing you can't control is totally out of control, then yes, you're successful.
It was windy when we arrived at our High Camp, it was windy throughout our short stay, and it was like a freight train when it was time to go. There's no way we could fight on the steep, cold and dangerous slopes of Ama's southeast ridge what "Eolus" had in store for us. So the only thing we could do, knowing that we had waited until the very last day, was to be smart and head down. Undefeated, because in the mountains what counts is telling the story. But sure disappointed to not to have been able to climb just a bit more.
But oh well, we're now back to the safety of our lodge at Base Camp, and we'll stay our descent tomorrow, eager for thicker air and why not, to start closing up our Himalayan adventure.
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
Namaste from Ama Dablam Camp 2,
We climbed to the famous Yellow Tower, surmounting the most technical terrain that this route presents. We dragged our feet leaving Camp 1 as to get bathed by the sun a little bit. Then we crossed with ease the beautiful yet incredibly exposed crest with several hundreds of feet to drop on either side, contemplating how the now distant Base Camp became smaller and smaller down in the valley.
The winds are strong here, but the sun shines and it is comfortable inside the tents. Air feels thin, but our acclimatization process has been productive. We're going to hope for the best with the winds and we will put up a good fight, smart though, but we won't know until we get higher later tomorrow morning.
We sure hope to make a phone call from the summit!
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
Go Dad! Can’t wait to hear about it!
Posted by: Holland on 11/16/2018 at 8:17 pm
Enjoy the sunset and the sunrise !
You must have some view
Posted by: Vivian on 11/16/2018 at 10:15 am
Hello! We are at C1. A long day brought us here under clear skies. We're alone here and we presume it will be the same at C2 when we arrive later today.
Not much to report other than we had an incredible sunset last night, perched here on Ama Dablam's ridge. Let's keep hoping for the winds to die in the next day or two!
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
Previous Page
Next Page
-640x480.jpg)
-640x480.jpg)
-640x480.jpg)
Hi David and Dave,
I hope your team stays clear of winds like we had during the successful 2016 RMI expedition. :-0
Is the food at Union Glacier camp still amazing - for being so far away from the “real world”.
Enjoy your days in the pristine antarctic environment.
I hope to climb with both of you again some day.
Keith L.
Posted by: Keith Loritz on 11/29/2018 at 12:55 pm
View All Comments