Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Climb Above 14,000’ Camp

June 14, 2018

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Bryan Mazaika, Nick Scott

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

Wednesday, June 13, 2018 - 9:27 PM PT Today we had another great breakfast. Then the crew geared up for a climb up towards the fixed ropes. We have had more than our share of good rest in the past few days. We needed to move some blood and keep our fitness we have gained on this trip. From the forecast we are seeing it looks like we could have a few more days of poor weather. We hope to take another climb for fitness tomorrow and be ready for a break in the weather. Fingers crossed! RMI Guide Tyler Jones

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Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Arrive at Denali Base Camp

June 13, 2018

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Hannah McGowan, Gloria Roe

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 7,200'

Wednesday, June 13, 2018 - 8:54 PM PT The mountain weather was kind to us today. After a hearty breakfast at the Roadhouse in Talkeetna, we made our way to the airstrip where K2 Aviation told us we were good to fly. We hopped into our climbing clothes, did our last minute list checks, and got into the planes. After a phenomenal 45 minute flight over the tundra and into the Alaska Range, we landed on the snow runway that is Kahiltna Base Camp. We spent the day taking in the sights, practicing crevasse rescue skills, and preparing for our long, heavy slog to our next camp at 7,800'. Our plan is to wake up super early and be traveling across the Kahiltna Glacier while all of the snow bridges are very frozen. We also like to travel at night to avoid baking in the heat of the day as all of the white, snowy surfaces reflect sun back up at us. We either freeze or fry in the mountains and the 24 hours of daylight allow us to travel safely whenever we choose based on the temperature. RMI Guide Mike Haugen & Super Crew 6

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Looks like beautiful weather! Wishing you all a safe and amazing climb, especially you Craig Clark!

Posted by: Carol clark on 6/14/2018 at 8:29 am

Hello Mike, I’m looking forward to following this team up to the summit and back. It was a pleasure climbing with Rusty, Josh and David on Mt Rainier in 2015. I know that they are in good hands on this trip.

Posted by: David Clemmons on 6/14/2018 at 5:15 am

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Denali Expedition: Mike Haugen & Team Meet in Talkeetna, Ready to Fly

June 13, 2018

Posted by: Mike Haugen, Hannah McGowan, Gloria Roe

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 348'

Wednesday, June 13, 2018 - 9:59 AM PT Our Denali Expedition Team is assembled in Talkeetna and ready to climb! After the last hectic few days of travel and packing, we are loaded in the plane and ready to be on our way to the mountain. We are looking forward to the adventure and challenge we are facing. Wish us luck!!! RMI Guides Mike Haugen, Hannah McGowan and Gloria Roe

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Josh,
Just heard from Keith. Fire has been contained and evac has been lifted.
We are all headed out for our helicopter tour! Hope everyone is doing well. Love and hugs!

Posted by: Sarah Levy on 6/15/2018 at 12:48 pm

Hey Glo! So sorry about the blocking situation. I love and admire you and I wish your team safe adventures. What a great weather day to start out.

Posted by: Michelle Weekly on 6/13/2018 at 11:34 pm

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Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Stalled at 14,000’ Camp

June 13, 2018

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Bryan Mazaika, Nick Scott

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

Tuesday, June 12, 2018 - 9:56 PM PT Today was another windy and snowy day here at 14,000' Camp. After a late breakfast, despite the snow, the team worked together to make an igloo to improve the comfort of the bathroom experience given the current conditions. It’s little projects like these around camp that help down days go by. After a few hours of resting back in our tents the sun made an evening appearance that allowed us to stretch our legs around camp and clear out some of the snow again. The skiers on the mountain have been taking advantage of the evening clearings by enjoying the powder turns to be had just above camp. We’ve enjoyed standing out in the sun watching them ski back to camp. Unfortunately, the outlook for the forecast took a big swing this morning and instead of high pressure settling in for the weekend it now appears we are expecting a major snowstorm and continued high winds through Saturday to stall our summit bid. The team is staying optimistic however, given we may be at 14 camp for a few more days. Tomorrow’s another day and a forecast is only a forecast! RMI Guide Tyler Jones and Team

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Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Matt Hill, hang in there! We are planning a full reception at the Blanford Rec Center when you get back. There may even be a famous rapper from L.A. there to sing with bubbles.

Posted by: Paul Downs on 6/13/2018 at 1:20 pm

Really glad to hear of your resourcefulness ! I’m sure your igloo is much bigger than the on David made with his siblings in the front yard long ago..
Be warm and happy !
Stay strong.
Love,
David’s Mom

Posted by: Ruth on 6/13/2018 at 9:12 am

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Alaska Alpine Climb: Elias and Team Enjoy Another Great Day of Climbing

June 12, 2018

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Chase Nelson

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska

Tuesday, June 12, 2018 - 8:15 PM PT Good evening from the Pika! We're back from another great day of climbing in Little Swiss. Today we took advantage of the cold temperatures, and climbed a route up "The Witch's Hat", the southernmost formation of the cirque of mountains around our Base camp. Several pitches of steep snow, ice and mixed climbing brought the team to a narrow summit where we enjoyed a well deserved rest to our calves after the endless front pointing with our crampons. All accomplished by another objective tackled in this program, we're about to enjoy a burrito dinner at camp. Good evening everyone! RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

Denali Expedition: King & Team Cache Gear at 12,500’

June 12, 2018

Posted by: Mike King, JT Schmitt, Ben Ammon

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,000'

Tuesday, June 12, 2018 - 5:32 PM PT We'd already sent in the dispatch yesterday and then skies cleared up and we enjoyed a sunny evening. Today however, we woke to grey skies up above and clouds pouring over Kahiltna Pass. The teams in camp all got a slow roll to see who would break trail up Motorcycle Hill. This led to a bottleneck and a slow pace. After an hour the clouds had descended and snow was blowing. Our goal today was a cache around Windy Corner, but due to the volume of climbers, new snow and low visibility we opted for a 12,500' cache. We are back at Camp at 11,000' hoping to get a chance to move up to 14,000' Camp in the next few days. RMI Guide Mike King

On The Map

Mt. Rainier: Emmons Seminar Team on Summit!

June 12, 2018

Posted by: Zeb Blais

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

RMI Guide Zeb Blais checked in from the summit of Mt. Rainier today. Zeb and the Expedition Skills Seminar ascended via the Emmons Glacier from Camp Schurman this morning. The team started their program with two days of training in Ashford and Paradise before departing early Sunday morning for the White River Trail head. After two nights on the mountain, expedition style camping and mountaineering training the team made their summit attempt this morning. They will return to Camp Schurman this afterrnoon and spend a final night on the mountain. Tomorrow they will break camp and return to the trail head. Congratulations to the team!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations Barry, you made it to the top! SO Exciting!!!
You are an inspiration to so many! -K

Posted by: Kathryn McRitchie on 6/21/2018 at 8:28 am

So exciting !!!!!!!!!!! Way to go Chad !!!!!!!!! You are an inspiration to all !!!!!!!! Kelly

Posted by: Kelly Jakes on 6/12/2018 at 12:03 pm

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Alaska Alpine Climb: Elias and Team Climb the Lost Marsupial

June 12, 2018

Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Chase Nelson

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska

Tuesday, June 12, 2018 - 2:08 PM PT Good evening! What a day we had... Another alpine objective tackled! We had some snow overnight, so we dragged our feet to see what the weather would do. It warmed up enough to melt the light snow from the rocks, so we decided to aim for a rock route. By 1pm we decided to head to the "Throne" one of the biggest formations in the Pika Glacier. We climbed the "Lost Marsupial" route, a long moderate route among the clouds, above some planes that brought tourist to the glacier, and into the evening (that's what we get to enjoy climbing in Alaska, 24h of daylight) a great pasta dinner followed our arrival to camp. After dinner, we went to bed right away, as we're planning an early departure for our next objective. Stay tuned! RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos

Mt. Rainier: Okita, Ebeling and Team Reach the Summit!

June 12, 2018

Posted by: Brent Okita, Chris Ebeling

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

The Five Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guides Brent Okita and Chris Ebeling reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. Brent reported clear skies and light winds of about 20 mph. The team will descent back to camp Muir for their final night on the mountain. Congratulations to today's team!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

What an amazing accomplishment. Congratulations to the entire team. Way to go Gwen and Elizabeth!

Love from the Mathewson/Niehaus Family

Posted by: Lori Mathewson Niehaus on 6/12/2018 at 10:59 am

Congrats to Brent and his team - You led a trip last year when Andy Renner attempted Rainer and he and your colleagues will try again tomorrow (6/13) and I hope that you (literally!) paved the way for his group to make it all the way. Best wishes

Posted by: Stephanie Renner on 6/12/2018 at 10:03 am

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Denali Expedition: King & Team Take Weather Day at 11,000’ Camp

June 11, 2018

Posted by: Mike King, JT Schmitt, Ben Ammon

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,000'

Monday, June 11, 2018 - 5:35 PM PT Not much to report from 11,000' Camp. Today we woke to snow, after breakfast we were shoveling snow and about every two hours since there has been more snow to shovel. The one caveat is that the wind is light. The Team has been working on "out chilling the storm" as a long time RMI guide once put it. We are hopeful that the weather begins clearing tomorrow so we can put a cache in striking distance of 14 Camp. Everyone is healthy and warm. RMI Guide Mike King

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Alex,
After hunting around the RMI website we are 90% sure this is your expedition. Stay warm and tend to the small details: feet, hydration, etc… Best to the whole team- and Malin says you did this to yourself :)

Posted by: Matt & Malin on 6/12/2018 at 9:50 am

Scott, I’ve got my eye on you - and the summit! Keep your leg warm!
Love, Mom

Posted by: Connie Selgrath on 6/12/2018 at 8:29 am

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Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Climb Above 14,000’ Camp

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Haugen & Team Arrive at Denali Base Camp

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Mike Haugen & Team Meet in Talkeetna, Ready to Fly

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Stalled at 14,000’ Camp

On The Map

Alaska Alpine Climb: Elias and Team Enjoy Another Great Day of Climbing

Denali Expedition: King & Team Cache Gear at 12,500’

On The Map

Mt. Rainier: Emmons Seminar Team on Summit!

Alaska Alpine Climb: Elias and Team Climb the Lost Marsupial

Mt. Rainier: Okita, Ebeling and Team Reach the Summit!

Denali Expedition: King & Team Take Weather Day at 11,000’ Camp

On The Map

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