Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Summit!

June 6, 2018

Posted by: Mike Walter, Robby Young, Alan Davis

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 17,200'

Wednesday, June 7, 2018 - 10:59 am PT Nothing is easy about Denali. After two hard days of climbing and finally reaching the summit yesterday, we are currently hunkered down in our tents, avoiding the wind and spindrift that the mountain is throwing at us this morning. It is currently too cold and windy to safely pack up and climb down the exposed West Buttress. So we're on standby, chilling out in our tents waiting for the wind to abate. Hopefully we'll be able to bump camp down to lower altitude and warmer temps soon. RMI Guide Mike Walter Tuesday, June 6, 2018 - 10:50 pm PT Despite a less than ideal weather forecast, we awoke to clear skies and no winds. We fired up the stoves and woke our team. Muscles were weary after climbing for seven hours yesterday, but we couldn't pass up this opportunity. The weather stayed good all day and the route was in great shape. It was a hard day of climbing but we got to stand on the top of North America! We were ten hours round trip (high camp-summit-high camp). And now that we've eaten dinner and crawled in our tents, the temperature has plummeted, winds have increased, and snow is falling. Timing couldn't have been better. We will start our descent tomorrow... RMI Guide Mike Walter

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So proud of all of you! Please keep yourselves warm. Miss you guys, and can’t wait till you’re in Talkeetna. Shower Beer is everything. You’ll see.

Posted by: David Head on 6/7/2018 at 8:44 pm

Wow!!! How incredible!! Alex and Tom we are all super excited for your summit!! Must be incredible to see from the top!! Enjoy every moment and we miss you. Nicole

Posted by: nicole celona-jacobs on 6/7/2018 at 1:40 pm

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Bolivia Expedition: Frank & Team Turn at 17,400’ on Illimani

June 6, 2018

Posted by: Eric Frank, Andy Bond

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Bolivia

Elevation: 17,400'

Hello there. It's Eric Frank calling in from Bolivia. It's about 1:30 in the afternoon (BOT Time) and I'm at 17,400ft here on Illimani. Unfortunately, we decided this will be our high point for the climb. It's a combination of recent storm snow, and the forecast, which has made us decide to head down hill. So at this point we're going to move back to our base camp and spend our last night in the mountains. Tomorrow we will pack up, head back to La Paz, and in two short days, be back at the airport. We look forward to seeing all of you soon. Bye. RMI Guide Eric Frank

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We are very proud of you guys especially our guy Chris! Amazing accomplishments this trip. We can’t wait to see your face.
Love,
Anna, Shelby and Sammie.

Posted by: Anna Baldwin on 6/6/2018 at 2:11 pm

Still a great accomplishment and a wise decision to trust the weather forcast

You know what they say “don’t mess with Mother Nature”

Be proud team Team Eric and Andy
Special shout out to Julie

Posted by: Tina and John on 6/6/2018 at 1:20 pm

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Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Wait One more Day at 14,000’, Ready for Move

June 6, 2018

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Taylor Bickford

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

Tuesday, June 5, 2018 - 10:46 PM PT So there we were, standing in our cook tent on Mount Denali. This morning was a beautiful morning, and it really doesn't get much better here in Alaska, but tomorrow's forecast had been showing elevated winds for some time. With that stability of forecast, it didn't look like a summit day tomorrow, so we decided to drag our feet at 14,000' for one more day. It was a beautiful rest day, well enjoyed by the whole team. The cook tent was humming this evening with the energy of expectation of a move to 17,000 ft Camp tomorrow. We are all excited and ready, and can't wait to give high fives to RMI's Denali Team led by Mike Walter as we pass them on Denali's West Buttress. RMI Guides Pete, Jess, Taylor, and team

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Hope you are taking it all in, warm and comfy. Did you bring smores?

Posted by: Tim on 6/7/2018 at 3:48 am

Good luck tomorrow John and Raj…i know you’ll summit! Anxious to see your push become reality!
MUSH

Posted by: Sue Mamer on 6/6/2018 at 2:13 pm

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Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Teams On Summit

June 6, 2018

Posted by: Brent Okita, Chris Ebeling

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

RMI Guide Brent Okita radioed at 6:52 am PT as the Four Day Summit Climb teams were approaching the crater rim. Brent reported chilly temps and light winds. They will enjoy some time on the summit before starting their descent. They will return to Camp Muir and then continue to Paradise. Congratulations to today's Summit Climb team!

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Absolutely amazing climb!!! Can’t say enough about RMI and to all our guides. You guys really set the tone for my passion for mountaineering. Many a climbs to come with you guys!!! Ecuador, Mexico, Denaili and many more to come!!

Congrats to my new climbing friends on the successful summit!!!

Posted by: Tanner Morrison on 6/7/2018 at 1:35 pm

Amazing Heidi!!! We are all impressed back here at zero elevation. Can’t wait to hear all about it. I hope someone is takin pictures.
Stay warm. Love Eloise, Max and Marco

Posted by: Allison on 6/6/2018 at 3:19 pm

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Denali Expedition: Hailes & Team Enjoy Rest Day at 14,000’ Camp

June 5, 2018

Posted by: Walter Hailes, JM Gorum

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,000'

Tuesday, June 5, 2018 - 5:35 PM PT The team enjoyed an excellent rest at 14,000 ft. today. We started the day with breakfast burritos. These weren't just any breakfast burritos. These burritos were so expertly prepared that they earned the coveted Alden Mills "Best Breakfast of the Trip" endorsement. After breakfast, we lounged, drank second and third rounds of coffee, and planned out the rest of our day. The planning was not very hard, since we really didn't have much to do. We took a walk out to a feature appropriately name the Edge of the World, and gazed 6,000 ft down into the NE fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. On the walk back to camp, the team practiced some rope skills that will greatly enhance our efficiency on summit day. After the hard work was done we ate as much cheese, sausage, and bread as we could in preparation for our summit bid. Now we just wait for a weather window to move to High Camp, and head for the top. The team sends their best to everyone following along back at home. RMI Guide Walter Hailes

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110-102 GSW! Durant 43 pts!

Posted by: Tracie on 6/6/2018 at 8:32 pm

Hey Brett! Currently watching GSW vs. Cleveland! GSW are up 2 games to 0 and currently it’s the 4th quarter of the 3rd game. Score is 88-87 GSW! It’s so cool to watch your ascent! Stay safe everyone!!
Love, Tracie, Brian Erickson and Kennedy

Posted by: Tracie on 6/6/2018 at 8:07 pm

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Denali Expedition: Jones & Team All Moved into 14K Camp

June 5, 2018

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Bryan Mazaika, Nick Scott

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

Tuesday, June 5, 2018 - 4:28 pm PT Well our lucky streak with the weather continued today. The Team was up early packing our equipment and taking down tents for our move to 14,200ft camp. The group of gentleman we have on this trip seem to get stronger each day developing skills both physically and mentally. Though we are all a bit warn down from this week's efforts, we are happy at our newly-built camp in the basin. We have spectacular view from our tents, which are currently glacier-front property. We are sitting pretty and looking forward to a full rest day tomorrow along with hydration, acclimatization, and a few skills for higher on the mountain. The camp will also get a few upgrades I’m sure. RMI Guide Tyler Jones

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Hope you got better sleep last night. Amy pictures of the edge of the world hike? Good luck on the trek on up

Posted by: Peter Tovin on 6/7/2018 at 5:22 am

Hey Gollob! I bet u wish u were in FL. Snow sukcs!

-mikey b

Posted by: Mikey B on 6/6/2018 at 8:07 pm

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Mt. Rainier: Summit Climb Teams On Top

June 5, 2018

Posted by: Dave Hahn, Kel Rossiter

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

Summit! At 8:45 am RMI Guide Dave Hahn radioed to say, "We are walking into the Crater Rim." The mountain has a cloud cap with some high winds and also some sunny skies. The teams will spend some time on top before starting their descent. Congratulations to today's summit climbers!

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team View Winds Moving Up HIgh

June 5, 2018

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Taylor Bickford

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

The winds up high were moving. Snow trails off the mountain into the air. We're snug and cozy at 14K with plenty of food and fuel, So we sit and watch the tails of a mare. This small verse sums up our day. We looked up, saw winds moving snow around up high, and decided to do the prudent thing and sit tight at 14K Camp. We're ready to crack when conditions line up, but until then, some igloo building, heads up, and sunbathing are plenty to keep us happy and occupied. RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Jess Matthews, Taylor Bickford and team

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Rich, we are with you all the way!!! Enjoy the climb::)) Love mom and dad

Posted by: Richard Lewis on 6/7/2018 at 4:40 am

Hope you guys get some good weather and a nice clear day. John, Raj & team best of luck and safe return from the top! -waiting for an update…... Erik

Posted by: Erik on 6/6/2018 at 1:52 pm

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Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Cache Gear At 14,000’ Camp

June 5, 2018

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Bryan Mazaika, Nick Scott

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 11,000'

Monday, June 4, 2018 - 10:00 PM PT The gang awoke to a clear, crisp morning on the day of our carry to 14, 000' Camp. The group was raring to go and many could hardly sit still. Whether it was excitement or to keep the cold at bay was difficult to tell. Today would be the first day of climbing, when the group would strap on crampons and walk with an ice ax in their hand. This would be made even more difficult by the ever thinning air as we gain more than 3,000' of elevation on our way to 14,000' Camp. However, this group of climbers, after tackling the approach into 11,000' with professional style, would not be phased by things as trivial as thin air, heavy packs, and the guides incessant reminders to rest step and pressure breath. Right out of camp the climbing hits you head on with a steep slope known as Motorcycle Hill. Lucky for us the snow had been packed down and our crampons with their many points allowed us to send motorcycle with ease. At the top of our first obstacle we were treated to views of the Peters Glacier as well as the Father and Sons wall, an impressive alpine face of granite and blue ice. Further in the distance the wilderness of the Alaskan tundra stretched far beyond the limitations of the human eye. The scale out here is truly impressive. Reinvigorated by the views, the climbers were ready to scamper up squirrel hill and charge across the polo fields straight to Windy Corner. Again luck was on our side as the often ferocious Windy Corner would not live up to its name on this day. With the bulk of the hard climbing behind us, only one hill remained between us and our cache site at 14,000'. In the style that us guides have come to expect from our climbers they crushed the last hill and strolled into 14,000' Camp with ample energy. Friends and other climbers from RMI groups ahead of us treated us with smiles and a much needed water refill as we dumped our gear in our cache and prepped for our return to our Camp at 11,000'. The day was only half over. With water and snacks in our bellies we turned our boots down hill hoping to make it back to the safety and comfort of our tents before the snow turned to mush and the sun baked our minds. The climbers of the Jones expedition once again did not disappoint as all members of our group made it safely back to camp in time for lunch and well earned nap.Tomorrow will be another big day if the weathers on our side? RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Bryan Mazaika and Nick Scott

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David and the rest of the team,

We had dinner last night with Lou Whittaker and his wife Ingrid. He turns 90 soon, but is still going strong. An inspiration.

He told us a rather harrowing tale of his Mt. McKinley (Denali) ascent with his twin brother Jim, Pete Schoening, and John (?) . The good news is that you are in great hands and being much more careful than they were. The most important take away advice I got from his tale is ‘don’t fall.’

We raised a toast to all of you. Much love. Take care.

Posted by: Linda Glein on 6/5/2018 at 4:07 pm

Thank you for the posts and pictures - excellent! The camp times must be as enjoyable as the climb judging from the pictures / views. Enjoy!

Posted by: Matt H's Parents on 6/5/2018 at 9:31 am

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Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Make Summit Attempt, Turn back due to Winds

June 5, 2018

Posted by: Mike Walter, Robby Young, Alan Davis

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 17,000'

Monday, June 4, 2018 - 9:27 PM PT We woke to mostly clear skies, with some visible wind above us. With very cold temps we waited a little to let it warm up and to see if the winds abated. Temps did warm but the winds remain...not atrociously strong, but something to keep an eye on. Leaving camp at 10:00, along with about 100 of our best climbing buddies, we headed up the "Autobahn" towards Denali Pass. The temps were cold and winds made it chillier. By the time we reached Denali Pass and turned the corner, the winds were in our face, colder and stronger than before. We pressed on, in the hopes that the winds would decrease. But as we gained more altitude, the winds kept increasing and getting colder; it was challenging to stay warm--especially our hands, toes, and fingers. So we turned around at the top of Zebra Rocks (~18,800') and headed back to High Camp. We climbed for seven hours and got back to our tents cold and tired. We'll check the weather forecast to see what our next move will be. Hopefully we will get another chance to go for the top. RMI Guide Mike Walter

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Champion effort! May you be well rested for another summit run and may she,the Mountain,help make it so. Many Blessings, Hujo and Katie.

Posted by: HUGH DE PENTHENY O KELLY on 6/6/2018 at 9:08 am

You fellas have fun up there. Maybe have Robby eat some more torts and ride him to the top like a rocket ship…. I don’t know, maybe??? Just think about the 8 cases of beer buried at base camp!

Posted by: Todd Hayes on 6/5/2018 at 8:28 pm

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Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Summit!

On The Map

Bolivia Expedition: Frank & Team Turn at 17,400’ on Illimani

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Wait One more Day at 14,000’, Ready for Move

On The Map

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Summit Climb Teams On Summit

Denali Expedition: Hailes & Team Enjoy Rest Day at 14,000’ Camp

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team All Moved into 14K Camp

On The Map

Mt. Rainier: Summit Climb Teams On Top

Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team View Winds Moving Up HIgh

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Jones & Team Cache Gear At 14,000’ Camp

On The Map

Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Make Summit Attempt, Turn back due to Winds

On The Map

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