Entries from Expedition Dispatches
RMI Guide Andy Bond led the
Five Day Summit Climb Team June 8-12 to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. It is a beautiful day on the mountain with winds 10-15 mph and cold temperatures. The cloud deck below is at approximately 8,000' so the team enjoyed great views from the summit. After spending two nights at Camp Muir they will return to camp and re-pack gear before continuing their descent to Paradise. We look forward to seeing them at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon.
Congratulations to today's
Five Day Summit Climb Team!
RMI's Four Day Summit Climb Team reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning.
RMI Guide Casey Grom reported a beautiful day with light winds and cold temperatures.
The team will return to Camp Muir for a quick break and then continue to Paradise.
Congratulations to today's Summit Climb team!
Hello from the
Pika Glacier! We had a terrific day on the "munchkin" a rock formation 20 minutes west of our camp, where we spent the day training. This team is really talented and motivated to learn, and with the best classroom as our domain, we had a very productive day; short roping, rock anchors, belay escapes, transitions... We lost the concept of time getting techie with our ropes and gear, and we realized we had to come back to camp when our stomachs told us dinner time was due. We are hoping for good weather tomorrow to climb another objective. Best regards from Alaska, Elias, Chase and team.
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
June 11, 2017
Today has been a good one. We have been treated to some sun here at
14,000' Camp. This has allowed us to prep and dry all our gear. There are sunny days on the horizon, we are just waiting to see how strong the winds will be. We are drinking and eating well in hopes of moving up tomorrow or on Tuesday. Fingers crossed! That's all for now!
RMI Guide Tyler Jones
On The Map
June 11, 2017
Today was another rest day here at 14,000' Camp. After a long brunch and some wall renovations, our team settled in for a little rest. By the afternoon, some visibility presented itself and our team geared up for a stroll to the "Edge of the World," a vantage point where you can peer nearly 7,000 feet down to the
lower Kahiltna Glacier. It is a truly stunning view and a treat to see a little bit of this amazing Range after living in a snow globe for a few days. With any luck this week will offer us a few days of decent weather to venture higher. The team is ready and when it is safe to climb, we will be happy to do so.
R
MI Guide Jake Beren
On The Map
June 10, 2017
Good evening from Alaska. It shouldn't be raining on the glaciers of this Range. But it is. We've been confined today to our tents and kitchen tarp to stay dry, as a wet cloud and on and off rain took over most of the day. No climbing or outside training we could do, but for the hour or so that we got a break, we moved camp, as our tent platforms became 1 foot tall pedestals due to the high temps. We're all looking forward to an improvement on the forecast, and continue to climb on this sanctuary of alpine dreams that
Little Swiss is!
Elias, Chase and team.
June 10, 2017
The sleep of the dead finally hit me this morning just after my last post. An hour later JT asks, "Should we get up? It's 1:04 am and the alarm on my phone hasn't gone off!"
The night hadn't brought the hoped for cooling, but it was time to leave and make that trip to Base Camp. Breakfast and hots were served in the remains of our old Posh site, sans the actual Posh, then we were off. As we turned the corner at 10,000' heading down the Kahiltna we were treated to the amazing view down glacier of the jewels ad the Alaska Range. Hunter, Foraker, Crosson and other peaks were starkly defined in shades of black and white, along with some other hue that seemed hard to place. Unusually dark clouds prevented the pinks and reds we often see at 3:30-4:00 am, but this view I've never seen before, and may have been even more spectacular. 6+ hours of hard walking finally brought us back to Base Camp. Reflective of the poor snow year in the Alaskan mountains this year, there were a number of sketchy crevasse crossing to be negotiated. Then white out conditions kept us from seeing the landmarks that would otherwise tell us exactly where we were, but the track in the snow of others gave us something to follow. Then, low and behold, the tents of Base Camp popped into view and we knew we were done. Unfortunately, these same clouds have prevented planes from flying and landing here, so we are again captive of the weather gods and just waiting to be released from
Denali to return to civilization where we might wash the twenty one days of toil off us and sit in chairs at a table and eat food that requires more than just a spoon.
I just hope that, when we do get to that restaurant, some social graces return to folks and we don't see them licking their bowls clean in anticipation of the next course.
I'll of course advise everyone to bring a pee bottle to their hotel room, and perhaps even a CMC (clean mountain can), because some habits might just be too difficult to break after these twenty one days.
Goodnight from 7200' camp, where I hear the snow hitting the tent walls in increasing intensity. Oh well, at least we need walk no more, for now.
RMI Guides Brent, Christina, JT & Team
June 10, 2017
Hello from 14 Camp. We had a mix of bagels, cheese and Cheerios with a side of bacon for breakfast. Then we suited up for a walk in calmer and warmer weather than what we have be experiencing lately. Our team climbed to the base of the
fixed ropes to clear our minds from tent time. We also were glad to stretch the legs and lungs! Our vibe is lifted for the future. The forecast for tomorrow is looking like new strong wind with snow. The weather could turn the corner early next week. The team is doing every well and poised to go higher soon.
RMI Guide Tyler Jones & Team
The
Four Day Summit Climb led by Dave Hahn reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. Dave reported clear sunny skies above 7000' with winds of about 15 mph from the North. The team has started their descent and are en route to Camp Muir.
Congratulations to today's team!
June 10, 2017 7:46 pm PST
Today we may very well have nailed it. Waking early for an extended weather viewing to establish any discernible trend, we left camp with reasonable visibility. The team did great as we broke trail up to the base of the fixed lines. We rested at the base of the lines as the weather slowly deteriorated and our friends from
RMI 4 joined us in solidarity on a fitness walk. Once we were a big party and the cache was established, we descended back to
14 Camp for some rest before dinner. The winds and snow picked up nearly as soon as we got home and we are now poised to go to 17K once the weather allows. It has been pretty squirrelly in the weather department lately, but the team is hanging tough, waiting for our time to shine.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
On The Map
Previous Page
Next Page
Congratulations Casey, we saw in paradise on Saturday when they returned from their mountain school!
Posted by: Luis Carrasco on 6/12/2017 at 10:13 am
View All Comments