RMI Expeditions Blog
Posted by: Eric Frank, James Bealer, Jack Delaney
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 7,800'
Friday, May 21, 2021 - 11:28 pm PT
This morning we woke up to fresh snow as we began preparations for our carry to the 9800 cache. Our duffels and backpacks were able to easily swallow our gear as we only had to carry a load of about 50% of the weight from the previous day. The team ascended, cached everything and then descended in stellar form, ate a nourishing meal and went to bed with full stomachs and tired legs.
RMI Guide Eric Frank & Team
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Matias Francis, Chase Halbert
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'
Friday May 21, 2021 - 10:28 pm PT
We had a bit of a false start today. When e got up the winds that have been storming through camp were absent, the sky above clear, though thick, high clouds shrouded the upper mountain. As we finished breakfast, the side started to creep back, the clouds crept up and down to meet at us, and things started to look more marginal. We dragged our feet and started to see an improving trend, so we decided to go for it, knowing we could turn around and head for a snug camp if it didn't work out. We climbed Motorcycle Hill our of camp in some low visibility, but otherwise pleasant conditions, but as we crested to the ridgeline, the wind found us, cooler than a polar bears toenails. With less than optimal visibility, increasing winds, and a significant stretch of climbing in front of us, we decided to retreat back to camp.
In the end, it was nice to stretch the legs and we'll be ready when the mountain opens her arms and says come on up.
RMI Guides Pete, Matias, Chase, and Team
Looks so unbelievably beautiful!!! Keep sending pics - we can at least imagine we are there with you. :D
Posted by: Monica Deckard on 5/22/2021 at 10:28 pm
That image of the mountain opening her arms to your group is quite lovely. May she see fit to do that sooner than later. Nice to stretch your legs, Hope better weather arrives soon.
Posted by: Bethany on 5/22/2021 at 10:45 am
Posted by: Mike Walter, Avery Parrinello, Luke Wilhelm
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'
Friday May 21, 2021 - 9:56 pm PT
Winds had calmed by 5am, and I got my hopes up as I fired the stoves in the cold Alaskan dawn. But it turned out to be a brief lull instead of a pattern change. Persistently strong winds and snow returned and we were dealt another weather day.
We’re optimistic that the weather pattern is changing; we saw the sun this evening for the first time in four days. We’re all in good spirits, ready and rested for the move to 14k.
RMI Guide Mike Walter and Team
Good luck to Luke and the whole team!
Posted by: Matthew Byars on 5/25/2021 at 9:19 am
The Bemis’s and Wilhelm’s wish you all well from the shores of Cayuga lake for chuck’s graduation! Hope you’re all not going too stir crazy and that you haven’t consumed all your snacks. Stay safe and thanks for the daily updates- much appreciated!
Posted by: Tracy on 5/23/2021 at 5:21 am
Posted by: Hannah Smith, Ben Luedtke, Leif Bergstrom, Nikki Champion, Alan Davis
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 11,200'
The Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir May 16 - 21, 2021 met on Sunday for their first day of training led by RMI Guides Hannah Smith and Nikki Champion. On Monday, May 17th they loaded their packs and ascended to Camp Muir. They have spent the last four days and nights at Camp Muir, training and practicing skills needed to climb big mountains. Today they put that training to test and made their summit attempt on Mt. Rainier. Unfortunately wind and new snow thwarted their effort. The team is safely back at Camp Muir and will do some additional training this morning before packing their gear and descending from 10,000'. We hope they learned a lot and enjoyed their experience even with the uncooperative weather.
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Matias Francis, Chase Nelson
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,000'
Thursday, May 20, 2021 - 11:09 pm PT
Today was a bit of a groundhog day, though if anything, the weather made itself pretty clear as far as its intentions. Intermittently gusty winds and consistent snow made it an easy day to hang in the tents reading, watching movies, playing cards, and sawing logs. We're currently cooking a dinner of a curried rice and miso soup. We'll welcome the sleeping bags for another good night of sleep and see what tomorrow brings.
RMI Guides Pete, Chase, Matias, and team
Great to read the blog and get your messages, Hank! Prayers and fingers crossed for improved weather to move forward for safety and success!
Posted by: Nancy Thoenes on 5/22/2021 at 4:11 am
Bummer… Waiting is good for Jason’s back, I think??? Hopefully tomorrow will work out and you can cache!
Posted by: Mandy Powell on 5/21/2021 at 5:43 pm
Thursday, May 20, 2021 - 10:36 pm PT
Sometimes it’s not so fun to be right. Turns out we were right about the incoming snow storm. We moved to Camp 1 at 7,800' today through continuous snowy weather. The guide team safely navigated us across the Kahiltna, while Eric proved he was a talented linguist by regaling us with stories during our breaks. Tomorrow we hope to cache food and extra equipment above Ski Hill and then return to our camp.
RMI Guides Eric Frank, James Bealer, Jack Delaney and team
Go Heidi!!! We are following along as well! :)
Carol & Huay
Posted by: Huay on 5/22/2021 at 6:00 pm
Elliot
Loving the updates. Stay strong and tap into your tenacious spirit. Our best to you and your fellow travelers.
Love
Mom and Daf
Posted by: Susan and Bert Campos on 5/22/2021 at 9:57 am
Posted by: Mike Walter, Avery Parrinello, Luke Wilhelm
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,000'
Thursday, May 20, 2021 - 9:30 pm PT
We spent another day sitting out the wind and snow at 11,000' Camp. We killed time playing trivia for hours in the cook tent. We will continue to patiently wait for the best weather window to move up to our 14,000' Camp. Thanks for following along!
Best of luck to you all!
Happy Birthday Tom!
Posted by: Dennis Kinsey on 5/22/2021 at 7:24 am
Give Saint Rainier my love!!
Posted by: Tk Ito on 5/21/2021 at 10:00 pm
Posted by: Eric Frank, James Bealer, Jack Delaney
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 7,300'
Wednesday, May 19, 2021 - 11:20 pm PT
Blue skies greeted us this morning in Talkeetna. With potentially stormy weather approaching, we decided to make an expeditious attempt to fly onto the glacier this evening. We lucked out and got a flight and landed at Base Camp. Now the adventure begins! Tomorrow we plan to move to Camp 1 at 7,800 feet.
Elliot
Loving the updates, thinking good thoughts for you and the rest of your team. Enjoy the adventure, stay strong and tap into your tenacious spirit to keep moving.
Cheers and Love
Mom and Dad
Posted by: Susan Campos on 5/21/2021 at 7:09 pm
Go Auntie Heidi!!!
From Wilson
We hope you make it safely, watch out for spider badgers!!! (8-legged badger) ((Breckin made it up and tries to convince people it’s a real thing))
From Breckin
Posted by: Jason Kay on 5/21/2021 at 4:55 pm
Wednesday, May 19, 2021 - 10:15 pm PT
Last night gave us a taste of what the weather can be like on a big mountain when it doesn't want to play nice. We listened to the tents shake with gusty winds that also carried a fair bit of snow on their icy breathe, packing it into the tent vestibules and any other crevices it could reach. Our tents are stout though and we weathered it in comfort. Come morning, the skies were blue, but the wind persisted, lifting tall plumes of snow into the air above us and making it an easy decision to stay in camp and take a rest day. We'll look to cache the first opportunity we get once the wind relents. That might be tomorrow or it might take a bit longer. We're cozy in camp for now, so we'll practice patience.
RMI Guides Pete, Chase, Matias, and team
Posted by: Mike Walter, Avery Parrinello, Luke Wilhelm
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'
Wednesday, May 19, 2021 - 5:54 pm PT
The winds ramped up last night and the temps dropped. The trend persisted into the morning as we had breakfast and coffee. Our decision to stay put today was justified, as winds continued all day today, which would have made travel difficult at best and dangerous at worst.
Instead of packing up camp, we enjoyed another rest day. We had little to gain to attempt to move camp in such conditions, as our team is acclimatizing to the altitude and recovering from the past week's work here on Denali at 11,200'.
Reading, snacking, stretching, snoozing, listening to music, and shooting the breeze were the main activities for our team today. We're on standby for the winds to abate so that we can make the move up around Windy Corner to Genet Basin at 14,200'.
We'll check in again tomorrow to keep you apprised of our progress.
Glad the climb is going well, and that you were able to rest yesterday, instead of climbing in rough conditions. While you prepared for the trip up to 14K, Corey Kluber pitched a no hitter, the second in the MLB in 2 days (6th overall), LeBron and the Lakers came from way back to beat GS in the 7/8 play-in game, the PGA golf championship prepared to start, the Bruins took a 2-1 lead on the Capitals, and Juventus won the Coppa Italia. Just thought you might enjoy a short sports report.
Be safe and have fun.
Posted by: Bruce on 5/20/2021 at 4:22 am
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Just found your trip and will be following! I climbed this route in 1996 with RMI / Robert Link and you are brining back some powerful memories. One day, one camp, one step, one cut block at a time. You’ll get there!
Posted by: Keith on 5/23/2021 at 8:50 pm
Looks great! Keep it up!
Posted by: Thomas Brown on 5/22/2021 at 6:52 pm
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