RMI Expeditions Blog
Posted by: Mike Walter, Avery Parrinello, Luke Wilhelm
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'
Tuesday, May 18, 2021 - 6:21 pm
Our team enjoyed a well-deserved rest day today. The timing was perfect, as our team was ready for it and the weather was a bit squirrelly today; the colder temps, breezy conditions and light snow didn't bother us at all as we lounged in our tents, reading, listening to music, snoozing and snacking.
The weather forecasts indicate improving conditions tomorrow and warming temps by Thursday. Our next mission will be to move camp up to Genet Basin, at 14,200'. We hope to tackle that tomorrow if the weather is good in the morning. If not, Thursday looks promising, and another day of rest and acclimatization at 11,200' will only help us.
We'll let you know either way tomorrow. Stay tuned.
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Matias Francis, Chase Halbert
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,000'

Monday, May 17, 2021 - 11:40 pm
We had one more big day before we get a reprieve. This morning we found a light coating of snow in everything when we looked out of the tents, but blue skies and perfect conditions to pack up camp and move to 11,000' Camp. We were packed and moving by 9.45, and 6.5 hours later, we rolled into 11,000' Camp comfortably, though happy to be more or less done with our sleds.
We're settled in to a great camp now, with our cook tent much improved from last camp's. We'll be here for several days, so it's nice to be comfortable. We'll duck down just a little bit and grab our cache tomorrow, but otherwise the program is rest, after a couple big days. We'll check in tomorrow.
RMI Guides Pete, Chase, Matias, and team
Posted by: Mike Walter, Avery Parrinello, Luke Wilhelm
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'

Monday, May 17, 2021 - 6:17 pm PT
We took advantage of a beautiful day today and kept pushing that pesky rock up the mountain. This time we donned crampons and traded trekking poles for ice axes. We had an amazing climb up Motorcycle and Squirrel Hills, across the Polo Fields, and up around Windy Corner, leaving a cache of food and fuel at around 13,800'. The weather and climbing conditions were perfect, and we were afforded spectacular views of the upper mountain.
We were back at camp by 4pm with plenty of time to lounge in the sun before dinner. Tomorrow we will take our first full day out of boots and get some rest. We'll check in again tomorrow.
"Some come to laugh the past away.
Some come to make it just one more day.
Whichever way your pleasure tends,
if you plant ice your gonna harvest wind." -Robert Hunter
Be safe
Posted by: Jim powell on 5/18/2021 at 4:27 pm
Keep up the great work everyone!!! Sounds like a day of rest was needed. Be safe and have fun!!!
Your work family misses you John Jezak!!!!
Posted by: Danielle Taylor on 5/18/2021 at 1:06 pm
Posted by: Mike King, Taylor Bickford
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
Today's Mt. Rainier Summit Climb Team, led by RMI Guides Mike King and Taylor Bickford, are on top! They radioed from the top reporting windy and clear conditions. Their descent back to Camp Muir will begin soon with a celebration at Rainier Basecamp to commence this afternoon.
Congratulations to the team!
Good job everyone. Have a safe trip down!
Posted by: Carla Clemmer (Trey’s Mom) on 5/17/2021 at 1:26 pm
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Matias Francis, Chase Halbert
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 7,300'
May 16, 2021 - 11:28 pm PT
We moved a whole lot of our food, fuel, and various other sundries up to about 10k today. Loads were lighter than yesterday by a lot, but the terrain was steeper and it was hard work. The team did great, even when the sun turned on the microwave oven on us and it started to feel more like the desert in July than an Alaskan Glacier in May.
All our work today sets us up well to move to 11k camp tomorrow. We know the trail, loads should be even lighter, and it promises to be a successful day. We'll check in tomorrow from up higher!
RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Chase Halbert, Matias Francis, and team
The pictures by the planes are great!! Wonderful to see the group, everyone looks ready to go!! Fun to read about the first few days. Cannot wait to read more!!
Posted by: Bethany on 5/17/2021 at 6:27 pm
Posted by: Mike Walter, Avery Parrinello, Luke Wilhelm
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'
May 16, 2021 - 5:32 pm PT
We woke lazily to light snow this morning and had a leisurely breakfast of bagels, cream cheese, and smoked Alaska salmon. At 11am we set off downhill to retrieve our cache from 10,000'. We were back at camp by 2pm, with plenty of time for a nap and to gorge on lunch food. We also had some camp chores to attend to and some gear sorting in order to be ready for the next stage of the game: establishing a cache around Windy Corner at ~13,800'. We hope to make that happen tomorrow or the next day. We'll keep you posted either way.
Looks and sounds spectacular. Stay healthy and strong!
Praying for all of you!
Posted by: Julie Morris on 5/17/2021 at 2:10 pm
The RMI Mt. Baker Summit & Ski May 14 - 16 team led by RMI Guides JM Gorum and Alan Davis, reached the summit of Mt. Baker around 10:30 am this morning. The team climbed well and was spending a bit of time on the summit. Once things soften up a bit they will be making turns all the way backt to camp!
Congratulations to today's Mt. Baker climbers!
Posted by: Robby Young, Andy Bond
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guides Robby Young and Andy Bond reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. The team reported warm weather, and a great route. They spent some time on the top enjoying the views before starting their descent at 8:00 am PDT.
Contgratulations to Today's Team!
Congrats, big time! You will enjoy it the rest of your life! I have climbed it 4 times, one unsuccessful, so I guess 5 attempts and 4 successes. Best I remember, 2 in 1969 and 1970, 1 in 1972 and 1 in 1976. It has brought me joy ever since then. bb
Posted by: Bill Bussey on 5/17/2021 at 7:21 am
Congrats Caleb. Woot woot!! Looks beautiful. We are so proud of you. What an exciting accomplishment. Love you, Mom & Dad and your bros:)
Posted by: Carrie Olson on 5/16/2021 at 7:22 pm
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Matias Francis, Chase Halbert
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 7,300'


May 16, 2021 - 12:41 am PT
We hit the ground running today. At 8 am the weather looked good to fly, so we hustled to the hanger, changed into mountain clothes, and loaded gear on the two K2 otters that would ferry us to Basecamp. The flight in is always a highlight, as the tundra gives way to foothills, and then to the craggy peaks and ridges of the Alaska range, with cracked up glaciers carving channels between.
We took an hour or two to get our gear sorted, sleds loaded, and ropes setup, and then struck out from Basecamp to make our way up the lower Kahiltna to the base of ski hill. Often the first hour of moving with sleds has some hiccups, but not for us today. The group moved well, enjoying firm enough trail conditions that we could eschew the snowshoes.
We're settled into camp, feed, and tucking into sleeping bags for our first night in the mountain. We'll be in touch tomorrow!
RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer & Team
Jason- Your structural engineering group is cheering you on from afar!! We miss you and look forward to hearing all about your adventures. Hope you’re not thinking of Camden Shops up there lol.
Posted by: Katherine Bemis on 5/28/2021 at 6:30 am
Jason, All that tire pulling with Sully is paying off! You got this!
Lisa and Charlie
Posted by: Lisa and Charlie on 5/18/2021 at 9:56 am
Posted by: Mike Walter, Avery Parrinello, Luke Wilhelm
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'
May 15, 2021 - 7:26 pm PT
Our team had another big day today, moving camp from 7,800' to 11,200'. The weather was beautiful; the morning was nice and cool and the afternoon was hot and we couldn't buy a breeze. It took us 6 1/2 hours to make the move today, and another few hours of work to establish camp. We got our camp established with enough time for an afternoon nap for everyone while the guides melted snow to replenish water bottles.
Tomorrow we'll have a leisurely morning and head back down hill to retrieve the cache that we left at 10,000' yesterday. Weather permitting it should be a light workload tomorrow and we will able to get some good rest.
RMI Guide Mike Walter & Team
Praying for safety, health, strength and ideal weather. Enjoy the boundless beauty and have FUN!
Posted by: Julie Morris on 5/16/2021 at 8:09 am
Great to see you out in your element, Jason!
Great pics. Sending good-weather, best-health vibes!
Posted by: Terry Scalia on 5/28/2021 at 6:31 am
The inner pride you gain is so good, but impossible to share. Only you and those with you, or who have done it before, truly understand. Bill Bussey
Posted by: Bill Bussey on 5/19/2021 at 6:40 am
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