RMI Expeditions Blog
Posted by: Eric Frank, James Bealer, Jack Delaney
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'
Monday, May 24, 2021 - 10:24 pm PT
We're finally fully moved into 11,000' Camp. After a four hour lap to pick up our cache at 9,400 we have all our food and fuel with us. To celebrate to had pudding for dessert after a tasty meal of rice and curry. The weather looks good for tomorrow and we are hoping to carry some gear up to Windy Corner.
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Matias Francis, Chase Halbert
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'
Sunday, May 23, 2021 - 11:47 pm PT
Though it's almost June, the temps this morning hit us like the coldest winter chill. When we first crawled out of the tents it looked like today would be the day. It was cold, but the winds were light in camp. Above, huge plumes of snow launched off of the upper elevation ridgelines, a clear visual of how hard the winds were blowing aloft, but with them coming out of the north, we hoped the mountain would provide shelter and that the warmth that came with the sun would tame the winds. Instead, the opposite happened. As we ate breakfast the winds steadily increased in camp to a small squall, injecting snow through any opening in tents or clothes. Word from higher up said 14,000' Camp was no better. So we got the message and settled in. They've calmed considerably since this afternoon and the forecast calls for them to continue to diminish, so we know we'll get our shot to move up. The group is doing really well with the weather hang. Rounds of gin rummy, kindles, and movies are keeping everyone occupied, as well as a quick wall building session to protect our bathroom tent. Someone mentioned working on content for the Denali calendar as well. Fingers and toes are crossed we get to go climbing tomorrow.
RMI Guides Pete, Matias, Chase, and team, brought to you by Alice in Chains
(Previous blogs brought to you by Outkast and The Scorpions)
Posted by: Eric Frank, James Bealer, Jack Delaney
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,200'
Sunday, May 23, 2021 - 11:31 pm PT
Cold temps and wind greeted us as we began our move to 11,000' Camp, our Camp 2 this morning. The climb warmed up as the sun hit us and we enjoyed stellar views. The day remained windy with blowing snow but our team powered through it. Arriving at 11,000' Camp, we settled in and built our camp in fine alpine style. We were pleasantly surprised to run into the rest of our RMI teams here at 11,200'. Hopefully the reunion will be short as those teams progress up the mountain while good weather remains over the range.
Someone said there is no WiFi in the mountains, but you will make your own connections! Enjoy it all!
Posted by: Maxine Kay on 5/24/2021 at 7:09 pm
Sunday, May 23, 2021 - 7:10 pm PT
The Kahiltna Seminar team all arrived in Talkeetna last night. We got to town, ate some dinner, settled in to our rooms and called it an early night. The real work began this morning. An early breakfast set us up for a full day of prepping and organizing gear, packing everything up, weighing it all, and loading the mountain of equipment onto planes.
With some unsettled weather around base camp, we played hurry up and wait around Talkeetna for a few hours. That allowed us to catch up on a bit of napping and a bit of extra snacking before heading on to the glacier. Now everything is loaded up, and it sounds like the weather is good at base camp, so we’re going to get on the planes and fly in. It’s looking like weather is going to hold for us this evening, so my guess is we will be setting up camp on the Kahiltna glacier about an hour from now. Wish us luck, and we’ll check in again tomorrow!
Wishing you all fair weather leading to amazing adventures!
Posted by: Melanee Strootman on 5/24/2021 at 1:22 pm
Posted by: Robby Young, Dominic Cifelli, Camille Leininger, Joe Hoch, Nikki Champion, Axel Ryd
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 11,200'
The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guides Robby Young and Joe Hoch were turned around at Ingraham Flats due to high winds and blowing snow. The team returned to Camp Muir and enjoyed a brief break in the weather. The team left Camp Muir around 9:30 am en route to Paradise. We look forward to seeing them at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon.
Posted by: Mike Walter, Avery Parrinello, Luke Wilhelm
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,000'
Sunday, May 23, 2021 - 6:01 pm PT
The weather has not gotten the message yet that we’re trying to move up to the 14,00' Camp. Winds calmed yesterday afternoon, but picked up again early this morning. We were poised to break camp when they ramped up to the strongest we’ve seen this trip, strong enough to break guy lines on our cook tent. Texting via satellite with friends at 14k, we knew conditions were even harsher up there.
Instead of moving up today we built some snow walls to protect our camp here at 11k. The weather is improving this evening, and again we’re hopeful that we can push camp up higher tomorrow.
We’ll let you know...
RMI Guide Mike Walter
Might be fun to build an igloo in your spare time. Hope you get moving soon.
Posted by: Anne Cook on 5/25/2021 at 12:26 pm
As it turns out, there is actually a patron saint of good weather, Saint Medardus! I never heard of him before. He’ll be hearing from me until you’re home!
Posted by: Althea on 5/25/2021 at 10:39 am
Fresh snow and deep drifts greeted us this morning as we lay in the tent listening to the wind blow. Without being able to differentiate up from down, we decided to take a rest day and stay in camp. Our job became rest and recovery, which our team much appreciated. We are hoping for better weather and a move to Camp 2 tomorrow.
RMI Guide Eric Frank & Team
May the wind be at your back for tomorrow!
Posted by: Maxine Kay on 5/23/2021 at 2:42 pm
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Chase Halbert, Matias Francis
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,000'
The team woke up to a foot of fresh snow this morning, which led to our activity of the morning. Shoveling. Once that was out of the way, the team transitioned to game time. A variety of games and a few lucky beginners carried us through the afternoon. Some cheesecake for dessert has the team powered up hoping for better weather tomorrow. We're seeing the winds of change and feel positive about the next couple days!
RMI Guides Matias, Chase, Pete, and team
Hi Marc
I Hope you’re having a good day! And that conditions r improving. We are so proud of you! Good luck today to u & ur whole team!
Nicole
Posted by: Nicole gabai on 5/25/2021 at 11:37 am
marc - wishing you good weather to complete your mission. the pix are amazing. best wishes to everyone! olga
Posted by: Olga on 5/24/2021 at 10:48 am
Posted by: Mike Walter, Avery Parrinello, Luke Wilhelm
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 11,000'
Saturday, May 22, 2021 - 9:47 pm PT
We woke up this morning to a foot of fluffy, light snow. After digging out our tents and eating breakfast we saw the snow subsiding. Just as we got our hopes up for moving camp the winds started to pick up. It quickly became apparent this was not our day. Reading materials are running low, but spirits are high!
To Ben and fellow climbers: We wish you fair weather going forward! Pat promises Ben a little incentive- he’s making Manhattans when he returns!
God bless! Pat & Althea
Posted by: Althea Daley on 5/24/2021 at 6:22 am
Posted by: Andy Bond, JT Schmitt, Jackson Breen, Taylor Bickford, Matt McEttrick, Cal Smith
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley
Elevation: 12,600'
The Four Day Climb May 20- 23, 2021 was turned around at the top of Disappointment Cleaver today due to low visibility, blowing snow and cold temperatures. The teams, led by RMI Guides Andy Bond and Taylor Bickford, returned to safely to Camp Muir and will be descending to Paradise later this morning.
-640x480.jpg)
Please tell Norm that everything is ok at home and I am well. Thanks! Valerie
Posted by: Valerie Cognetto on 5/31/2021 at 11:14 am
We kidnapped your wife for the weekend, it will cost you a weekend of camping out at a country music festival, lol. Seriously- we are so very proud and astounded by your accomplishment. Norm- you are amazing and we wish you a safe return home to all who love you. xo
Posted by: Allison and Jimmy on 5/30/2021 at 7:06 am
View All Comments